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Michael

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Michael last won the day on February 26 2017

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About Michael

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    WRT Addict
  • Birthday 01/23/1969

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    United Kingdom

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  1. Hi, it worked absolutely fine first time with no adjustment. I checked it over a couple of weeks and it never looked like it would cause any problems. The appearance was sub-standard and if I had to do it again I would try and prepare better before soldering to make the appearance better. Thanks for your interest
  2. Thank you very much for your comments. I agree with you all. I am sort of hoping that I might get away with it as all the train has to do is rotate the power reserve hand, and most of the pivot holes are not jeweled. I suspect you are all correct and it will not work. HSL, you are spot on, as I did not have an exact match of wheel, and then once I got to the soldering stage, when I saw the gaps due to my dodgy workmanship, I wish I had a mini milling cutter (a machine I do not have). I found it hard to be accurate with a file as the 3 teeth are about 0.8mm across, so it was difficult to hold.
  3. Zero chance of getting a spare part, so either a new movement or take the power reserve function from the watch. This is an intermediate wheel assembly from the power reserve train, which had one of the wheels in the assembly with 3 missing teeth. With nothing to lose, I have decided to have a stab at a repair. Next stage is to clean up, put the little sub assembly back together and then try it in the watch. I have no idea if it is going to work!!! BTW, just to explain. The wheel with a section cut out is a doner from my spares bin which had the closet tooth profile. I cut a section of
  4. you did such an excellent job on that hairspring, I am surprised you did not get some life back into the balance.
  5. If you are talking about putting oil on the coils of the spring, personally I think you are fine not putting any oil at all. Greasing the barrel walls should be enough, put the new spring in, arbour in, and lid on. I am not sure what the ETA instructions guide says, but the difference in end result should be negligible
  6. Hi, you could put the screw back on the plates where they came from, after removing the components. The plates go into the cleaner with all the screws fixed to the plates.
  7. Your photo is not that clear, but unfortunately it looks like you have lost your top pivot. It should be the same as the bottom pivot.
  8. If it is a new movement, nothing is damaged, it might be you have not tightened the balance cock screw tight enough
  9. Mark did a video about building own watch. Sort of inspired me to build up a custom watch. The dial and hands are custom handmade from raw material. The movement is automatic TY2706. The case 316 stainless modified a bit. Worn everyday and a great timekeeper
  10. I would say with almost certainty that it is an enamel dial, which means it will have a metal backing to which the enamel is baked onto. I would be amazed if it was porcelain, which does not have the metal backing (image a porcelain plate or vase - no metal backing - solid ceramic like substance) .
  11. If you use a 60/40 tin lead solder, then the best flux to use is a zinc chloride flux. You could even use it neat and not diluted. Rinse well after, as it is highly corrosive. All not very environmentally friendly, but in the qtys you will be using, I think you should be OK
  12. Great information and thanks for posting. I could not find those arbor diameter sizes anywhere so that is really useful. I had the same problem with no winder for Landeron 48 etc so just started to make one. Waiting for a 1mm carbide end mill to arrive from China to add the hook piece, and a M3 die to finish winding handle. The winder bit is going to be Nivarox style as this is what I saw to copy, but if that does not work the spoke type looks probably easier to make. Not sure if it is going to work, but cannot really see why it should not
  13. I purchased my 1000 from ebay for the cheapest I could find. Came direct from China. It gets my vote ...
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