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saswatch88 last won the day on February 7

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About saswatch88

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  1. Hello i have a Waltham A11 spec 6/0 B from ww2. It has a center second pinion, I need to replace the CS hand so does anyone know the size so I can save myself the trouble of removing and measuring the pinion.
  2. MetalX makes strippers for different metals, I use the solution on nickel plated cases. It will remove the plating and leave the brass. I then polish the brass so it looks like gold then I replace with nickel using electrolysis. Then I polish again. Doing your own plating is very easy, chromium May require other steps in the plating process but I never dealt with it so iam not sure. But many videos on the tube in regards to metal x and electrolysis.
  3. Yes you should and makes no point in doing testing on parts and movements if they haven’t been cleaned, inspected, and serviced
  4. Did you properly clean/lube the arbor prior to testing?
  5. You can buy aftermarket hands pushers and springs all over ebay they work fine. I also found a couple movement rings as well not sure these use the spring type spacers found on the 6139s. I have one but never opened it up. The glass will be very difficult i think you can use one from a 6139 which i know spencer klein makes them. You can ask if they are compatible Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. God i hate when that happens
  7. - Air purifier -stay away from open doors, windows, ac vents, fans, pretty much anything that can cause a draft. -use trays with covers to store parts before re assembling. When assembling put a clear plastic bag over the movement or buy a clear plastic storage container big enough to cut holes into the side for your arms to slip in.
  8. Did you fully wind it or was it already fully wound? If it was already then it could be the mainspring, or it could be the balance staff, or both. Not to mention many other potential Robles’s but those are the usual suspects. I suggest you remove the movement and start making your checks.
  9. YESSS very important! Great input MK. this is why i never rely on machinery I have a timegrapher, but always do the slow motion video, i actually have a video editing software where i have all the geometry mapped out. I import the video under the template and when i slow it down i can see the amplitude very precisely.
  10. its a big difference when dealing with split wheels with weights,
  11. Maybe iam using the wrong nomenclature but..... Yes if the roller/ jewel is turned too far it will slip out of the fork causing the balance to stop And fork will stay banked to one side and escapement will lock up. And as you stated a fine adjustment “1 degree” that should be the Margain of error, but if a hairspring is not aligned well prior to assembly it will take much more than just a 1 degree adjustment to get everything to work right. The point iam trying to make is to get everything lined up as close as possible before attaching everything, checking pallet entry and draw with power on prior to installing a balance that has already been adjusted is also good practice. i went way too far into it with angles and geometry but it does play a big part in understanding how to diagnose issues with the escapement and what would need adjusting to solve it.
  12. This is an old pocket watch so issues with banking pins can 100% be the issue i have seen it more often than not on old movements. Bent or previously moved. I would say damage to the pallet jewels if anything but i have seen loose jewels. you can make adjustments to the roller/jewel after attachment, but its not ideal. Going by the collet is best and I have the tool but this procedure is done with hairspring attached to the wheel but not the cock, and hence “making the adjustment before attaching the balance and spring” which is how i should have worded it. These pocket watch balance wheels are split and have weights and the jewel should rest at 90 degrees between the arms, having the roller turned too far to one side to compensate a misaligned stud can actually cause the jewel to slip out of the fork and lock the escapement. If the amp is at 270 degrees ideally then it should be equal on both ends in relationship to the arms esp. on a split wheel.
  13. Double post i realized i said 30 degrees but to be actual it should be 60 degrees. This is very tricky stuff and hard to translate to an actual escapement, but with high magnification and a good eye it can be done without any actual measuring.
  14. Yes guard pin I call it safety pin. A diagram would be better to illustrate what i mean. But when pallet rest on the left bank it should measure the same degree as the other side. Looking at the escapement from the top if you where to draw a half a circle with 90 degree point at center of balance pivot jewel the “guard pin” should run a path of lets say 30 degree then it should be at +15 degrees at one bank and -15 degree on other bank equal on both sides.
  15. This is a typical benrus case they been making these since the 40s. You have to remove the crystal using a brass jaw type crystal remover. Once it’s out you have to separate the split stem. I could explain how to do it but a video is much easier and there are plenty out there. Just do a search on the net “ how to remove a split stem” and there is a tutorial on Esslinger.com on how to use the crystal remover. https://blog.esslinger.com/how-to-replace-a-watch-crystal/?_ga=2.79089757.839292711.1581400550-1065094695.1581400550 what i will suggest is to use a wire cutting plier and go from the outside of the case not between the movement and the case to avoid damage. Do not pry just allow the tapered shanks of the pliers to pull it as you close down. You may need to do pull it a bit yourself just make sure you pull straight don’t wiggle or pry. It may take some force so don’t be shy with it. do not push on the crystal and remove crystal before separating the stem
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