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saswatch88 last won the day on January 23

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About saswatch88

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  1. Yes iam familiar with those too, a lot of Waltham/Elgin’s from the late 20s and 30s have cases like that they are much easier to open up.
  2. i hate split stem cases like this, i would suggest to avoid issues like marring as Marc said, take it to a jeweler and ask them to just remove the movement and thats it, it will cost much less, and then you could do the battery replacement yourself and re-assembling would be much easier than dis assembling.
  3. i just moved the solder that was already there over in order to release the sub-dial then installed new one then pushed the solder back over.
  4. I didn’t have to solder on the feet, that i could never do
  5. Ok i finally did it, not the best job but def will pass my standards. The 60 is slightly off, the weld was a bit shabby but ok. I ended up using a tool for wood burning, its does not heat up as much as a solder iron. There is a tiny chip by the 50 that occurred when removing old sub dial, kinda pisses me off the most because without that would have been dam near perfect.
  6. The bezels between turtles and samurai are interchangeable! Not many people know this, assuming you mean a prospex turtle. SKX models can easily be found on eBay. I purchased a brand new oem Seiko bezel and insert for my skx009 it was $69. Parts for the 4R36 are also available a bezel & insert for the turtle is about $139. there also many sights who sell aftermarket bezels/inserts for the samurai. Just do a search on the net but here is one: https://www.dlwwatches.com/collections/ceramic-bezel-inserts/samurai there are no secret places for parts because they are everywhere. I just wish it was the same for deep blue watches.
  7. THANK YOU clock boy! You said everything i have been trying to say except with much less words. But again OP is adamant about his oiling practices so i really cant see how we are going to be able to help him if he wont accept the fact there could be an issue with his oiling, OK it may not be an issue with “THIS MOVEMENT” but what about “LITERALLY EVERY WATCH (you) SERVICE”???? Iam actually genuinely trying to help but i cant offer advice to someone who refuses it even though he was the one who asked for it to begin with. Ask anyone on here i always try to help, but when you are the one actually being passive aggressive with me then sorry iam not the issue here. I never went on a rant and never said what you are doing was wrong, I mentioned several times how and what oils to use on escapement is highly subjective, i dont use 9415 w/epilame, but never said you cant, i never heard of oiling only the teeth and again, i also never said it was wrong. My whole response was in regards to over oiling, which as you know has nothing to do with procedure. Which AGAIN can be the overall issue you could be having even though it may not apply to this one movement. GO back and read your first post. if you said hey i have a movement where amp drops after service and left it at that it would be different story but NO, you said and i quote again For the the 5TH TIME “literally every watch i service” you then later say No No No its not every movement. Lmao so it blows my mind how what i said which is what others members have already said is such a sensitive issue to you. I meant what i said it was not sarcasm, i truly want to know what your issue is here, but it seems like there hasn’t been a best answer yet so why not ask your mentor, i would have asked him before anything.
  8. You could always ask the watchmaker who taught you how to oil the escapement. I think he will be the one to best answer your questions. At this point everyone on here shooting in the dark because You are all over the map. You change this you didn’t oil this you cleaned this but didn’t clean this, etc. but I am very curious to see what your issue is so I am rooting for you. Good luck
  9. 1. You can sharpen the pullers from the inside not the outside. Getting quality pullers like Bergeron presto makes a big difference, there are sets for each use. No 1 is best for generic work then there is No 6 which is best for thinner hands and sweep seconds because of flat thinner blades. Its best to have both. 2. Sets hands at exactly 12 o’clock before removal, and reset the hands at 12 o’clock 3. You have to support the bottom of the sweep second pinion while pressing on the second hand, if there is a spring holding it in you need to move it out of the way before supporting it. If there is a jeweled bridge for the sweep pinion you need to support the jewel, find a movement holder with adjustable pinion support that fits the size of your movement. Might be tricky with Russian movements since i had similar issues for vintage American movements. Most are made for Swiss so you can figure out the ligne size of the movement by measuring in mm and converting to ligne. Which calculators can be found all over the net. There are ways to cheat here if you dont wanna go this far but they are not recommended. When in a pinch i will rest the movement upside down on a staking block with hole just big enough for the jewel/pivot. If you dont have a block a hard but semi soft surface will work, like a bench Mat or cutting mat. Tips: buy a hand setting press for $15 on eBay. They nylon tips aren’t the best when they wear out you can buy more, this device makes it easier to put the heads on steady and straight esp if you are new and not use to doing it by hand. I use Bergeron hand setters but when i started this device was a godsend.
  10. as i said "if manufacturer calls for it" either way what oils are they suggesting to use with it, and again as i said 3x i find it acceptable to use in conjunction with 9010. I have never used it with 9415, never had any issues. It was designed to be used without epilame, regardless of this not being the issue with this particular movement you still stated quote "that you oil every 3rd tooth of the escape wheel" so it could have been an issue with your previous unsuccessful attempts since it could be you are over oiling regardless of your methods, which is why i mentioned it. again never heard of oiling the escape wheel and not the pallets. not saying its wrong just never heard of it, like ever. The way i was taught by a man who is the only omega certified watch repairer in canada BTW is you apply one drop on the exit and entry stones, run the escape for 10 revolutions then ad another drop on each stone with another 10 revolutions until oil has spread evenly on all teeth, do this using 9010 with epilame, or 9415. I was taught by the same man that as you move the pallet fork, and the escape wheel tooth starts to come across the impulse surface of the pallet fork jewel, you will see a small wedge of oil form in the angle between the tooth and the jewel. If that forms when the leading edge of the tooth is about 1/2 way across the surface of the jewel, that is the right amount of oil. If it forms earlier than that, it’s probably too much, and if it only forms very late as it moves across, that’s probably too little. Its not just a matter of looking at the escape under a microscope with no action. you posted this thread about one movement but then explain your methods on other unsuccessful attempts so i think the issue is much bigger than this one particular movement wouldnt you agree? and as you stated here it says nothing about not being successful with only chinese clones, i will re-quote with the words "literally every watch" I guess you know more than me so ill just see my way out of this discussion
  11. Iam not a professional in any sense but I have learned from some of the greatest, highly qualified, rolex omega certified watchmakers that this is the way to do it, I have never heard any instance where someone oils every 3rd tooth of the escape wheel, Unless it is specified by the manufacturer. Iam assuming you are using 9415 on the escape i dont see how or why this is needed if oiled properly. again 9415 turns to oil when the pallet stones make contact with an escape wheel tooth so it as if the teeth are already oiled when making contact, except there is no transfer of oil or grease to the wheel because its not needed (when using 9415) I can see the use of epilame with 9010 but not with 9415, that would be overkill. I dont know what you were told or what that person is doing and what oils he is using, what i do know is that you have being doing this for 3 years with no success, so something is obviously not jiving, as said by me and other responders on this thread, (assuming everything else was done correctly) there must be over oiling occurring, and normally when over oiling causes enough drag to result in lower amplitude, in my experience, the problem usually lies within the escapement. So at this point what do have to loose t0 try a different approach? dont use the epilame and just oil the pallet stones with 9415, then run the watch for a few minutes, and see what happens. get the tech and service sheets on the clone, i.e if its a clone eta 2824 then find what the lubrication recommendations are for that movement from ETA or a manufacturer that doesnt use a modified version of such movement
  12. ok i think you could be over oiling the escapement, If you are using 9415 on the pallet stones there should be no need to use epilame or to have to oil the escape wheel teeth, either with 9415 or 9010 on the escapement (this has been debated many times over) you should not have to oil every 3rd tooth or any teeth for that matter, oiling the exit or entry stone or even both, and running the watch through a few cycles should disperse the oil properly, some prefer to oil one or two teeth max but I argue this is def. not needed with use of 9415. Iam more of oil the pallet stones kinda guy. After oiling the escape wheel teeth like you normally do put the escape under magnification, you should not see any oil or wetness on the teeth after a few minutes of running the watch, if you do you used too much. They should look dry. Also are you oiling the pallet pivots? Because you should not be. Also epilame is best used with 9010, 9415 is such an amazing grease, and i say grease because it technically is, it stays put on pallet stones, it liquifies with friction so it turns to oil on contact but does not spread to escape wheel teeth, this is why 9415 and epilame were formulated to prevent what you are doing from happening. if you are using 9415 on teeth and pallet stones that is almost likely your issue, esp if you oiled on top of old oil. i would re-clean the entire movement oil everything as normal except for the escape then check your results and get back to us.
  13. ok but did you clean the mainspring/barrel at all? if so are you using an ultrasonic? and what type of oils are you using?
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