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JohnD

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JohnD last won the day on June 21

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About JohnD

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    East Herts UK

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  1. I could have predicted that. With the amount of time left on the auction there was no way that your bid of CDN$750 would win it. I recon the final bid will be at least twice that........
  2. Hi Eric, I put a spare 7s26 movement in mine, which I had 'in stock' but I might well change it sometime to a NH35A and I I might even 'go black' with one of these spare Dagaz dials that came with a joblot of bits I got a year or so ago..... You get a fabulous deal on your side of the pond, with the SNK, this is what Amazon are offering over here... My orange Dagaz dial cost me about half of what you are paying for a complete new watch! Like you I fancied a SKX with a NH36A inside it, so put this one together...... Again out of 'bits' in a S/H SNK case that I traded for with someone from Australia. Apologies to the 'purists'
  3. Hi Eric, did you get her the SNK? I decided to make my one a bit 'different'........ 'Make' was really the correct term as I didn't buy one and modify it, but built this one up around an empty SNK case bought on eBay....
  4. If it is 'the real thing', quartz 2264.50, then your CDN$750 bid is a snip at about a third of the current retail price from a dealer, but if it is a really good 'replica' then it is probably only 'worth' about half that (to someone that wants a 'replica'). The 'flat' looking lume could be attributed to the lighting when the seller took the pictures and the stamped end links might only be on the much more expensive 2254.50 chronometer..... As I said before I know nothing about these watches, hopefully someone on here with practical experience of them will chime in and give their opinion.....
  5. Well I think that you are right and it is the quartz version...While i know nothing about Omega Seamasters, comparing the full set of pictures on eBay with 'real' ones on the net, it looks to be either the real thing or a very good copy. The only thing that looks slightly different is that the dial loom in the seller's pictures looks very flat compared to this 'real' one... and the end link number '930' appears lazer engraved rather than stamped in, as on this 'real' one....
  6. Andy, as you seem to know about these, what can you tell me about this Sekonda? It is the last watch my father had. He's been dead now for nearly 28 years and I assume he bought it some time in the late 1980's? Sadly I can't get excited about it as a watch, just keep it for sentimental reasons....
  7. If there is no obvious signs of corrosion on the circuits they are probably OK. The vast majority of O/C coils are due to ham fisted battery change attempts, where the coil is nicked with a screw driver......
  8. Not 'hallmarks' but just 'Pseudo marks' made to look like hallmarks, so you do not appear to have struck gold.....
  9. Quite common for the coil on these to go open circuit. There are two different variations of the movement, one like the one in your pictures with two buttons on the side opposite the crown and another one with one button on either side, no electronic movement parts are interchangeable between the two. It's easy to check the coil for continuity, with a multi meter once yo lift the circuit off...You might be lucky with one watch with a duff coil and the other with a dead circuit.... The resistance of the coil, out of circuit should be around 2k ohms...
  10. Agree, but with degraded lume flaking off the danger is in breathing in the dust, hence the warning........
  11. Looks like you are going to have to lift the bezel with a very thin knife. Try adjacent to one of the lugs, you should be able to get some leverage there if you can start to get a blade in.....
  12. With the stem removed, where the slot in the case is, can you see the edge of the aluminium dial? If it doesn't project further than the edge of the slot it may just be a tight fit in the case........When magnified, the picture appears to show vertical scratch marks in the inner ring, suggesting that the edge of the dial made them on insertion...
  13. Are you sure that there isn't a steel retaining ring sprung into the case? If it is, then, with the stem out, you should be able to rotate it a bit using the slot that the stem went through....
  14. Some useful information on the use of radium in flight instruments HERE.....
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