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Takes some years to recognize and learn movements . I use rannft a lot. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&2&2uswk There is usually a number or something on the movement so you can identify it. Google the number . Even Ebay could help sometimes. There is other pages that have a lot of movements. Like https://17jewels.info/

As amazing as WRT is, the limited time for editing is IMO very, very annoying! I think we should be allowed to edit our posts for at least a week so that we can update and add info as we go. As it is now, we must basically scroll through the entire thread for new posts from the OP to find any additions or updates. Well, JM2C!

I turn the boot by 90 degrees, loosen stud screw, lay the cock on its back ,balance side up, on cardboard. *** Insert a needle pin through the cock screw hole to secure the cock on cardboard*** . Lower the complete balance to drop balance pivot into the jewel hole, get the HS inside regulator pins and the stud in the holder hole.

UPDATE Excellent idea from@jdm Nylon beveled cast filed at spoke levels: Pressed case back And crystal was out without struggle Thank you very much [emoji1303][emoji1303][emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As Tmuir says look for the logos usually under the balance along with the calibre number for example:- as 1712-2 as being the brand 1712-2 the calibre, You will require both numbers to be able to order parts, I have enclosed two PDFs of the bestfit books, Have a browse through them the information will be useful when you start your course. In one of them there is a couple of pages of makers logos. bestfit_part1_(1).pdf bestfit_part2_(1).pdf

Even without a picture, Google the designation given by the watch manufacturer, you will land on some forum to known everything about it.

Anyone for tennis? A Timex Snoopy from 1978 got the full treatment last night. This is not the more common Petite version, but a gents "Marlin/Viscount" sized one. The case appears to be the same as some of the other front loaders, but the crystal appears to be an extra high one, to accommodate the novelty hands. Since I don't have anything in this size, there was a lot of polishing needed to get the crystal back from wrecked, to almost factory condition. Needless to say it didn't work when it arrived, but internally it was in pretty good order, so a clean and a few drops of oil had it running well. Snoopy's model no is 3901910478 which is probably from the "Fun Timer" series. I think it would look good on a denim strap. I'll need to see if i can track one down. It seems to be enjoying its new lease of life, unlike the 1968 sunburst champagne dialed Marlin I was looking at, at the same time, which is still struggling to run for more than a few minutes, despite a rust removal session and two full cleaning sessions. That one needs a crown, but I'll post pictures if I have it all ticking nicely.

I do all of the above except I mount the cock on a flattened piece of Rodico and stick it down well. Good Luck, RMD

Well done.

Thanks, jdrichard. That led me to the click. The first photo shows the click which disappears in the second photo as the watch is wound.

I just finished repairing an old 7J Waltham for a friend. Got it going well face up, face down, crown down: but scraping sound and slows down and sometimes stops crown up. Is this the impulse jewel closed to the opening back of the palate fork or could it be the hair spring. This is a very cheap watch so I don’t want to spend to much more time. Already replaced the mainspring and cleaned it up significantly. And I made a bow out of a coat hanger wire and a lot of pounding. Help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I have always had somewhat of an interest in wrist watches, but just recently I have been interested in working on them. I have a question and I don't know which forum to post it in. I wanted to know if I should buy new cheap chinese movements as sacrifices to learn on or if I want to try to get older movements? Thanks

If you can't see the hole you are not using a loupe. Then if you see the hole, but the wheel or pallet fork fits loosely as in never finding its place , then the pivot has been snapped.

True Mark dose make it look easy, has mastered it. One advantage of pining down the cock, is the cardboard, thence, nearly the whole bench is to move along with the cock for a mishap. Large cardboard preferably taped onto the bench. Best wishes

I just find this website... Maybe you guys know it already, if not, enjoy. https://watchbase.com

Ho Koen the password is tickandtock for both ok a good read and a good reference books

You need to fit it into the movement, then check, make sure it is even all round, not touching anything. Does it look right looking down on it, not bunched up on one side. Is it free between the regulator, regardless where the regulator is, it should be free to move. If the answer is yes then try it.

A lot of movements have the brands logos on then, but annoying not always where you can easily see them. Just keep browsing this forum is a good place to start.

i have known collectors that have bought them. beautifully made jobs! BUT can't sell them. sad.

Mostly USA, for British Military Timepieces you need funnily enough 'British Military Timepieces' by Konrad Knirim, just be prepared for a price shock as Whitney's book is not cheap, but Konrad's price is out of this world, but they are the best reference books for British and USA military timepieces, Konrad's is full of great colour photos, whilst Whitney's book is filled with exploded diagrams and service manuals.

like many hobbies or aprentiships; "it will all come together in a few years". vin

Inspired by Marks Blimey! That's big! Anyhow, I ordered a movement, a Miyota 6T51, and I'm going to give it a go. Watch this space for ballistic toys :-)

30 mins. Most fruitful mistake. make more.

Excellent info at link! Thanks for sharing.

I think the time limit is to avoid confusion later. If someone asks how to let down the mainspring and the first reply is "take out the pallet fork" then 10 replies saying noooooo then 1st guy edits and now the thread doesn't make sense. I don't know the limit here but I don't think any forums I visit allow more than a few hours, some less some more. Editing is more for typos than content (Just edited this post 3 times!)

Not with this one. This is a new one for me.

OK consider it taken care of.

Would you like me to message Mark? See if it can be changed. What sot of time do you suggest?

You need to be good with lhe piercing saw and micro files. Try on scrap dial to get an idea.

Yes. My suggestion to hold the cock with a screw was made to make it easier for a beginner, and avoid the risk of inadvertently touching the hairspring.

I see they put out a new site, which is what you saw. Go to the old site, eternaltools.com/blog/swiss-eta-watch-movement-parts No telling if the old site stays or not, I see if it lets me copy the diagram for future references. Regards

Googling I found you a PDF at the link below it's on page 16. Then I really should find you a picture of this but the other method is to not to remove the hairspring. Some companies Rolex for instance supplies special tools for this which were not going to have and are exceedingly expensive even if we did. So what they do is to push the staff out and once the staff is free of the balance wheel they continue to push the staff right through the Hairspring collet. http://www.awci.com/wp-content/uploads/ht/2006/2006-05-web.pdf

Not sure I understand the Eternaltools.com comment. I looked at the website and saw nothing relating to ETA movements, only a tool seller.

Some of the older watches would have a leaver on the side near the winding mechanism. You would put some tension on the mainspring while depressing the leaver and then slowly release the mainspring. Need pictures of the side/edge of the movement. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I typically lay the balance cock down upside down on a mat and then take the balance, hairspring side down, and visually align the stud with the hole and slowly lower it. Then I use a very small screwdriver bit Yellow and tap the stud into the hole from the side. I usually have the regulator arms very close to the stud, but I just watched a pro move the regulator to the opposite side (far from the stud) leaving enough slack to simply lift the hairspring into the regulator arms; while the stud is screwed into the balance cock. Not always an easy job and takes a lot of experience to get good at it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

There are worse diseases.My question is of course, are they housebroken?

Yes I've realised the mistake after it was too late to edit.

Thank you for explaining how this part of the keyless works operates! However, the terminology is a constant source of confusion in our trade. The part that you name a crown wheel is indeed a winding pinion and it drives the crown wheel mounted on the barrel bridge.

That spring is a "yoke spring" also known as a "return bar spring". It presses on the yoke/return bar. Make sure you get the yoke in place first, then the yoke spring, and finally place a bit of grease between the spring and the yoke where they meet. Do not grease before the spring is in place. Also, you must assemble the winding pinion, sliding pinion (also known as the clutch), and stem before you assemble the yoke and the yoke spring. Here are some pictures that you might find useful: OMEGA cal. 601 VOSTOK cal. 2409 AS cal. 1203

At the risk of entering deep and dangerous waters, what does anybody know about rubber? I've seen a couple of these on ebay, but generally they sell for well over the 404 club membership rate, but this one presumably wasn't shifting and the seller messaged me with a buy it now offer of three quid, so I took the plunge. From the pictures in the listing I could see that the condition of the watch was pretty poor, and when it arrived, it was fully wound and locked up solid. The case had a big dent in the "hubcap" back and the "tyre" is somewhat perished and cracked. The watch is complete, and one of the older examples, judging by the mechanism (Made in Scotland of course ) Getting it working was the easy bit, although it did take a couple of cleaning cycles, as the hairspring was very sticky (and as a result slightly conical). Mechanism running and dial cleaned, next came dent removal, for which a little light "panel beating" with a rounded dowel and a hammer proved very effective. Following a quick minor polish (keeping the vintage look), you would never know the dent was there. However the major issue is the rubber. Is it even possible to restore cracked and brittle rubber I wonder? Should I make a cast clay or plaster mold and cast myself a new tyre from silicone sealant? What experience does the membership have of rubber?

Per photos Inviato dal mio WAS-LX1A utilizzando Tapatalk

Perhaps the "older" WRT-members remember that I, as a watch-novice (which I still am) back in begin 2016 serviced my own Rolex Submariner (3135). After putting myself through a rigorous training on two ETA 2540 / 2541, 17mm ladies watches, the Rolex 3135 was next. That caused, rightly, some stir on the forum. Before the service I build Stefans Watch-O-Scope to test the end results and to do some adjustments if required. With the excellent video of Mark, servicing a 3135, I performed the service. There were some heart-stopping moments, especially when at the end, while adjusting the daily-rate with a Microstella tool, my right-hand holding the balance-wheel with tweezers started doing his own thing and I bend the hairspring at the stud. Luckily that I could fix......... After the service the Watch-O-Scope signal looked horrible. The beat-error was in different position all over the place. We had endless discussions on the forum about what to do and what was next. Despite the poor W.O.S results, the Rolex ran constantly +2 or +3 seconds a day. Other attempts on the Watch-O-Scope proofed futile and for a long time I've been thinking about admitting defeat and to get the Rolex fixed by an official Rolex service point. That was until today. Even through I was quite happy with the W.O.S. results on all my other watches, I decided (after repairing a heirloom pocket-watch and the owner donated me some extra) to buy the Chinese Weishi 1000 timegrapher. Knowing how the Rolex raw-data looked like on the W.O.S. screen, I didn't expect the Weishi 1000, which came today, to make much sense out of it either. The proof is in the pudding they say, so one of the first watches to test was my Rolex. To my surprise the Weishi 1000 picked the 28800 bpm signal correctly and without any problems up. Even better, and to my big relieve !, the Rolex runs actually quite good. I hadn't worn the Rolex for a least two weeks, so it was cold and had to be hand wound. Lift angle set at 52 degrees. Dial Up: -7 s/d, 294 degrees, 0.1 ms Dial down: -7 s/d, 292 degrees, 0.0 ms Crown down: -3 s/d, 272 degrees, 0.0 ms Crown up: -2 s/d, 278 degrees, 0.2 ms. I know that when worn, the Rolex runs +2 to +3 s/d constantly. This get to show, as @JohnR725 keeps saying with timegrapher signals; Rubbish in = Rubbish out. To my big relieve it also shows that I didn't ruin my Rolex and that it actually runs very fine....... no need for a new balance staff or an official Rolex service, saving me at least a $1000 and giving me a peace of mind. I've been very happy with the W.O.S and it still has its place. The Weishi 1000 however ....... It thoroughly impresses me ! I like to thank everybody for their input a few years back and just in case there were still some members out there wondering & worrying about my novice Rolex "endeavor", we can now put this aside and all sleep well Cheers: Roland.

Here are the other two catalogs, converted to be searchable. 1960-Catalog-Crystal-Cross-Reference-Lists-Searchable.pdf 1972-Catalog-100-Crystal-Cross-Reference-Lists-Searchable.pdf I hope this makes life a little easier for everyone.

I share your concerns about charging your kinetic watch. If it wasn’t for the fact that I got a good price for my perpetual calendar watch I would have walked away from it. You can wear yourself out shaking it out of the idle state and the hours and calendar don’t remember the date or time. Even with a new capacitor-battery. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk