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Lawren5

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About Lawren5

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    Washington State

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  1. Nucejoe, thanks for your comments. It's not obvious in the photo but the plate between 22 and 19 helps keep the date wheel in place and aligned. Because of this, the date wheel can not be moved in any further. It may actually improve things if it was moved outward as it would allow the pawl on the opposite side of the movement to better engage the date wheel. The wheel appears to be brass and I suspect the date misalignment is due to wear against the steel.
  2. The watch is a Tissot with the 784-2 movement. The misalignment occurs on all dates regardless of manual change or normal operation. The detent spring appears good.
  3. Below is a Tissot Sideral watch in which the date wheel does not align properly in the window. There is a small black date wheel driver located at the "1" position but there doesn't appear to be any way of adjusting it. This watch has seen a lot of use so I'm wondering if it's just worn parts.
  4. Thanks nickelsilver, that did it. I didn't realize that this one could be popped out from the other side.
  5. I'm working on an Elgin pocket watch and cannot remove the endstones on either the main plate or the balance cock. All other jewel settings of this type have just fallen loose upon removal of the two screws. However, in this watch, it's like they were press fitted in as I'm unable to even pry them out. Would appreciate any suggestions you may have.
  6. Watchweasol - I've posted a couple of pictures as you have requested. The keyless works isn't much different than any other except that it uses a chamfered stem and a setting lever stud instead of a screw. The setting lever is held in place by the setting lever spring. Depressing the stud allows for easy removal of the stem. When the movement is in the case, pulling on the stem causes the chamfered section of the stem to hit the setting lever overcoming the spring tension, raising the setting lever and allowing stem removal.
  7. Nothing broken. I've since disassembled the movement and all looks good.
  8. I applied some muscle and was able to pull the stem out and surprisingly it was not a two-piece stem as was expected. I noticed that the stem has two conical sections which work with a spring loaded post. Once the stem had been removed, a sharp knife was used to get underneath and remove the bezel. The crystal was removed with a crystal lift and the movement could then be lifted out.
  9. I need some advise on how to open a Tissot Sidereal with fiberglass case. The back does not open so the movement must be removed from the front. What I can't figure out is how to remove the crown and stem.
  10. Just to close out this thread concerning low amplitude, I finally got around to addressing the issue of too much lock. The pallet stones were probably not original as they were already set back into the pallet fork as far as they could go. I removed the pallet stones, ground down the back ends, reinserted them and applied shellac. After making some adjustments, the amplitude jumped from the initial 166 to 265 degrees.
  11. Thanks, Mark. As an amateur watch repairer, it's good to know that it's not just me. I'll order some new shellac in stick form.
  12. I purchased a bag of shellac flakes off eBay and cannot get them to melt. Instead, they just get a little soft and sticky but won’t form a string when pulled from the pallet warmer. Applying more heat just makes them crisp up. I’ve seen several of Mark’s videos in which he heats up shellac and it melts nicely but I’m not getting the same results. Is it possible that I’ve got a bad batch of flakes or is it something else that could be causing this? Would it be better to use a shellac stick instead of flakes?
  13. I'm working on a Waltham aircraft clock that has two broken mainsprings. The mainsprings have holes at both ends for attaching to the arbor and barrel but the new ones I received have a bridle at the barrel end instead of a hole. Is it possible to use the bridle end even though the barrel has the tab for a hole end?
  14. Thanks, jdrichard. That led me to the click. The first photo shows the click which disappears in the second photo as the watch is wound.
  15. I'm working on a Waltham 8 Days aircraft clock from WWII. It has dual mainsprings which are wound up. I need to unwind them before going any further but am unable to locate the click. It appears that any further disassembly will affect the drive train. Am I overlooking something obvious?
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