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About DavidMasters

  • Rank
    Watch Enthusiast
  • Birthday 12/03/1954

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Mexico Beach, FL USA
  • Interests
    Watchmaking, Boating, fishing and various other retired guy things.

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  1. I watched a video today where the terms "Unfolding" and "Folding" were used. I guess its possible it was a translation issue because I've never heard the words used with the exception to times when working on cases. I came to understand that unfolding/folding were being used to describe the disassembly and assembly of the movement. Anyone know if these were words used in days gone by or again was it simply a translation thing. Regards
  2. I have not demagnetized but will when I get back to the bench. Good suggestion and one that I need to make a routine, but for some reason it seems to not get done.
  3. First, I've watched Mark's video and read lots of webpages on alignment, but I still have a question: I was working on one of my old Seiko's(5139) that I have assembled from three parts watches. I got everything cleaned and the train assembled. I visually looked at the Balance Complete and it looked good. After assembling the train and installing the Balance, it would only swing after I moved it and immediately back to rest. I then looked at the impulse jewel for problems and discovered it was completely missing—not broken but cleanly missing. I had a balance wheel from another balance 5139 that I swapped to the balance cock and hairspring. I carefully aligned the new wheel with the old wheel before removing for the swap. I marked the new wheel with a Sharpie pen to indicate where the collet should be and the resting place of the impulse jewel. I then installed the new wheel in the exact position as the old wheel. I then adjusted for beat errors and the +- condition. Amplitude was about 252. It looked like I had a good runner. I assembled the dial and hands and then it was quickly apparent the watch was galloping and running very fast. In a 60 second period it was running 70 seconds. Also, it would stop on occasion as it appeared to bind. At this point all I can think to do is disassemble the train and visually align the impulse jewel with the pins. Is there another way to align the balance without disassembling the train. It is not a big issue to take it apart, but for future reference I wanted to see if there was a way to align without disassembly. By the way, there is no way to view the jewel and pins—even intense light and high magnification provides no view of the area.. Regards.
  4. I disassembled a Seiko 5139A today and discovered oil—and it is green. The entire movement down to the bare plate was covered in oil. No wonder the amplitude was almost nothing and the Balance was straining to move.
  5. Thanks, Marc, my guess was correct. I thought it had something to do with the Balance, but this work is way above my skills. Regards.
  6. Going through my yard sale bucket of watch stuff I ran across this. In an old paper box with no markings. I think I know what it is, but I'll not embarrass myself with my guess. Thought I'd let an expert tell me what this tool is... Regards.
  7. Here is a close-up of the pinion and minute wheel detached. As you can see, it WILL be possible to Stake the two back together because the bottom nose/flange remains in good shape. I ordered a new wheel since it was a cheaper fix than I thought, but I will Stake the original wheel and pinion and place it in my parts box. Regards...
  8. An old pawnshop Rolex trick. I use to glue a flat butter knife or a nail file to the backs of Rolex's and it worked great. Drop the back into acetone and you're set.
  9. Are you using a watch case tool to remove the back? Trying to remove a case back by pushing on one slot may cause it to bind elsewhere and it is difficult to remove. I would NOT heat it. Don't try that. You may try a pair of needle-nose pliers opened to match two slots and try twisting it open but be careful.
  10. Ok, I now understand. I will take a close up picture of the pinion, but if I remember correctly there may not be enough material left on the pinion to press into the wheel—I think it sheared off the pinion where it was pressed into the wheel. Since my lovely wife has no clue what I would be asking her to do, and I'm not at home right now, it may be a day or so before I can post a picture. This sounds like the proper way to repair. Many years ago I bought two complete staking sets from an older gentleman that was selling his tools. Both appear to be very old but they work perfectly. Regards...
  11. I sort of understand, but not completely. are you saying put the two parts together and then tap slightly with a nose stake(I have one)? Do I use the nose stake from the back of the minute wheel? Regards...
  12. I saw a video recently where a guy(scientist) compared the super glue brands and Loctite came out on top. I ordered a new wheel, but I'll keep it as a backup incase my fix does not work. Regards...
  13. Thanks for the informative video. I have always shied away from using glue anywhere close to a watch movement, but JBWeld may be exactly what I need. My repair is very simple, so I'll give it a go.
  14. I'm working on an old Seiko Bellmatic 4006 27 jewel. During assembly I discovered the center cog of the minute wheel was separated from the outer gear, so now instead of a single assembly minute wheel I have two parts. Obviously the wheel may slip. I don't want to locate another wheel because it's not of great importance. I would like to repair if possible. I know glue is unforgivable, but that is all I can think of to get them back into a single wheel. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Regards. UPDATED...I found a new wheel from Jules Borel for $7.95 + shipping, so I ordered. It is easier and cheaper than I thought. But, I still would like to attempt a repair...
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