Jump to content

Watch of Today


mk3

Recommended Posts

SEIKO Sportura Kinetic Chronograph SNL015P.... also known as a 7L22 - 0AM0....

I picked this up at the swapmeet and it had a not very attractive reddish rubber watch band . I installed a SS fine mesh band I had in my stash until a carbon fiber band with red stitching I ordered shows up .

Some of the features are : 

  • Energy depletion forewarning function.
  • Overcharge prevention function.
  • Duration of full charge is approximately 5 months.
  • Screw down crown.
  • Screw down See-Thru case back.
  • Anti-glare sapphire crystal.

DSC00001.JPG

DSC00006.JPG

DSC00007.JPG

DSC00010.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some of you may remember my search for good 1960,s seiko sportsmaster diashock dial. well after about a year of checking the bay religiously I came up trumps after finding a none runner with a really scratched glass and battered worn case but I could see the dial looked ok so I left my bid went to bed and luckly won it so here it is back to its original best.575ad5764caeb_IMG_03621.JPG.d0069efb71cd6ea54e7a8879a893de75.JPG.9fb57d790ec1e2d0b256c6f3852c32a8.JPG

Before 20161117_001711.jpg

After

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On November 16, 2016 at 10:27 AM, ricardopalamino said:

SEIKO Sportura Kinetic Chronograph SNL015P.... also known as a 7L22 - 0AM0....

I picked this up at the swapmeet and it had a not very attractive reddish rubber watch band . I installed a SS fine mesh band I had in my stash until a carbon fiber band with red stitching I ordered shows up .

Some of the features are : 

  • Energy depletion forewarning function.
  • Overcharge prevention function.
  • Duration of full charge is approximately 5 months.
  • Screw down crown.
  • Screw down See-Thru case back.
  • Anti-glare sapphire crystal.

DSC00001.JPG

DSC00006.JPG

DSC00007.JPG

DSC00010.JPG

 

The carbon fiber watchband showed up.....I like it......

 

DSC00007.JPG

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wearing a 'Trylon' boy-sized watch, about 32mm across without the crown, probably from the fifties,

Powered by a Felsa 692 "bidynator'. I believe this was the first watch which could wind both ways which doubled the winding efficiency. Dial has the typical 'dead' lume with some of it breaking away from the minute hand, hour hand is a disaster. I haven't serviced it since I got it a few months back but will get around to it. Will fix the lume then. Watch is currently running ok.

This would be a typical micro-brand from the 50s but the stainless steel (unbranded) makes it slightly above average. Waterproofing and shock-proofing also add to the quality.

Dial has some patina but its even and doesn't detract from the watch. A lot scratches on the surface which I will attempt to polish out.

Trylon Bydinator.jpg

Case-back...'all stainless-steel'. This is a good thing.

P_20161121_090546.jpg

Humming away

Trylon Bydinator movement bal.jpg

Felsa came up with a simple way of removing the auto-wind rotor, next to the rotor-pivot there is a pin in a slot. Just move it as indicated by the arrow and the rotor is free. All the rotors I've come across so far have been jeweled, I don't know if there were any jeweled rotors. The case screws on most of the Felsa automatics from the 50s and 60s are not as elegant compared to other watches, depending on winding a screw out against the lip in the case.

Trylon Bydinator  movement barrel.jpg

French made case.

P_20161121_091036.jpg

Trylon are still around, surprisingly.. not sure what to make of this watch...trylon-watch.jpeg

Have a nice day!

Anilv

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I picked up this non-running Hamilton with a Swiss ESA 9158 electronic movement on the bay for $25 . It has a screw down crown , and when it arrived I could see that a bezel was missing . I searched the internet to see if I could find a picture of what the old bezel looked like , with no luck .

The rubber watchband was salty , dirty , and twisted into the shape it was stored in .

Screen shot 2016-11-23 at 10.22.50 AM.png

 

When I opened it up I was presented with a movement that was swimming in oil ,...you could almost pour the oil out . I had to clean my tools and work surface when I got it out . I removed the dial , hands , and dial ring and cleaned them up hoping that the finish on the dial and hands wasn't ruined .                                                                                                                          

I was able to find a complete working movement for $20 .

Screen shot 2016-11-23 at 10.21.18 AM.png

 

Fortunately,  after cleaning up the case , dial , hands , and watchband , everything looked good enough to re-use with no apparent damage done by the oil soaked parts .

 I reassembled the watch with the donor movement and it was off and running .

I checked my stash of parts to see if I happened to have an old bezel that would fit the case . I pulled out a Seiko bezel that I had changed out on a Seiko 6138-0011 UFO / Yachtsman I have and it fit .  I used a piece of brass wire of the right diameter to form a bezel spring to fit between the bezel and case , as each part had a slot where a ring would fit .  Luckily all the parts fit very well . The bezel fits firmly and turns as it should .

The Seiko UFO ....

DSC00035.JPG

 

And The Hamilton Electronic...I have since , reset the day and date...

DSC00006.JPG

Edited by ricardopalamino
  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, anilv said:

wow.. that's fantastic, even the colours match up!

Now you're gonna be 1)overwhelmed by Seiko fans condemning the improper use of parts from an iconic Seiko' and 2)offers to buy said bezel.

Anil

You are so right about  #1 . if I was on another forum I won't mention , I would get feedback from the experts . That's why I like this forum ,....no politics ....and more fun.... I'm not really a mod guy , so this is about as far as I'll go . I will admit though , I have seen some very nice conversions by some of the members of this forum .

As far as  #2 goes , Both bezels are original . The one I used on the Hamilton has a tiny scratch by the R in tachymeter , That's why I changed it on the UFO .

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A Seiko Perpetual Calendar 6A32 - 00B0 today . 

I wanted to check the battery , performance , and functions of this watch and found the date to be one day off so I decided to do a time and date setting  using the owners manual .

In one of Marks videos he changes the battery and resets the calendar on a Seiko Perpetual calendar 8F32 . The procedure for the 6A32 is different and a bit easier .

The first thing I noticed on my watch is that it has a push button above the crown , and I thought it was to check the power reserve in the battery , or part of the quickset function for the day / date , but it is used to set the calendar . I won't go into the full procedure , but am providing a link for those interested .

SEIKO_6A32_E.pdf

Screen shot 2016-11-25 at 10.43.41 AM.png

 

After attempting the setting procedure a couple of times . I finally got things squared away . This one is a conservative but nice looking  watch that really looks better in person than my photo gives it credit for .

 

DSC00003 10-49-02.JPG

Edited by ricardopalamino
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/7/2016 at 10:33 PM, anilv said:

The date quickset is by the button at 3 o'clock. I believe this button is a replacement...from where I don't know as it doesn't look like any pusher I've seen before.

Anil

doh! how did i miss that one? i have one just like it.

that button looks like something you'd see on an older tissot - or a junghans.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, a lot of the guys on this forum really know their stuff and are heavily involved in servicing and the like.  Some of the other forums have groups of 'fanboys' (I suppose they might be called) who will defend their brand of choice to the death. 

I got into horology through Seiko because of their low entry point (for mechanicals). To use an analogy, I'm probably still using stabilisers when it comes to knowledge.

What I'm getting at in a roundabout way is....Should I be surprised that so many people on this forum love their Seikos so much? 

N.b. I've got several Seiko watches, so to mix it up a bit here's my Bulova Accutron Deep sea from 1970 (same age as me)

New Image a.jpg

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually Tunokies ,  I think you just tuned in when there seem to be more Seikos presented under this posting by a few members . I think if you look at those presented under your watch collection , [but not this thread ] , and under Watch repairs Help and Advice You will get a truer picture of the watches shared on this forum .

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I've been wearing this Sekonda which the wife bought me about 15 years ago for a couple of days  aIMG_0691[1].JPGfter finding it in the back of a drawer during a clean out. Popped a new battery in I was amazed I'd taken the old one out for storage and off she went. Its really comfy to wear but being solid Stainless it weighs about a half hundred weight. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, Cad101 said:

So I've been wearing this Sekonda which the wife bought me about 15 years ago for a couple of days  aIMG_0691[1].JPGfter finding it in the back of a drawer during a clean out. Popped a new battery in I was amazed I'd taken the old one out for storage and off she went. Its really comfy to wear but being solid Stainless it weighs about a half hundred weight. 

Lovely timepiece.

Just one question, are the numerals around the dial ie: 360 at 12 O'clock, 180 at 6 O'clock degree angle measurements ?   

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • yes the things we read in the universe I did see some where it was either difficult to clean off or it contaminated the cleaning fluid there was some issue with cleaning. I was trying to remember something about grease where as opposed to a substance of a specific consistency they were suggesting it had a base oil with something to thicken it. That conceivably could indicate that the two could separate and that would be an issue. But there is something else going on here that I had remembered so I have a link below and the description of the 9501 notice the word that I highlighted? Notice that word appears quite a bit on this particular page like 9415 has that property all so they 8200 mainspring grease and that definitely has to be mixed up when you go to use it because it definitely separates. just in case you didn't remember that nifty word there is a Wikipedia entry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thixotropy   https://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/greases I wonder if what you're seeing is the boron nitride left behind after cleaning. In other words it's the high-pressure part of the grease and it's probably embedding itself into the metal which is why it doesn't clean off and shouldn't be a problem?
    • Yes and no. I use Moebius 9501 synthetic grease and it is significantly runnier than the Moebius 9504 synthetic grease (and I assume Molykote DX) that I previously used. I haven't seen 9504 spread and it is in my opinion the best grease money can buy. However, my current method of cleaning doesn't remove it from the parts, so that's why I have decided to use the 9501 instead. I believe I read somewhere that Molykote DX too is difficult to clean off. Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my 9501 grease which expired in June 2022 is runnier now than it was when it was new, but whether new or old it always needs to be stirred before use. So, that's why I treat the parts of the keyless works, cannon pinion, etc. with epilame. That was very thoughtful of you and something that had completely passed me by. Not sure what the epilame will do when it wears off in a non-oiled hole. Anyone?
    • Hi not found one either yet,  close relative is the 436 and 4361 according to ranff.db.   It gives quire a lot of detail but not as good as the old site.      RANFF.DB.
    • No problem to replace the setting with the staking set. Press the new setting from inside, use flat face punch with hole. The punch must be wider than the setting, the hole to be as not to press at the stone, but only on the bush. Press by hand until the setting gets flush with the plate surface, so the punch must rest on it.
    • Yes, the arbor usually makes about 3 to 3.5 turns. But usually spring takes 2/3 to 3/4 of the free space in barrel, not 1/2, so take it for the calcullations. This way the change in torque is smaller. I have a picture for You, this one is little older, but no mater
×
×
  • Create New...