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Everything posted by anilv

  1. Since it runs ok in all positions excepte dial down I would check the balance jewels/pivot on the mainplate. Another thing is check that the screw on the pallet fork bridge is correct as a thicker one can interfere with the balance. I'm sorry I may have missed something but hairspring issues and overbanking would have an impact in all positions? Anilv
  2. To add to JDM's post, you need another person to help you, one guy holds the case steady and holds the ballbearing down with a piece of pegwood or wooden toothpick. The other guys then hits the edge of the well to close the edges .. two hits opposite each other should be sufficient. I never had issues with the ballbearing sitting too high but I can imagine it would be possible. My worry is you may have excessive play in the bezel, ie too much up-down movement. Check this by installing the bezel without the ballbearing and its spring. Anilv
  3. On the AS1361 the rotor is retained by this plate. Once removed the rotor should lift off. In your case as the retaining plate does not seem to be present the pivot should push out with minimal force. Anilv
  4. I would, as you said, at the bottom where the minute wheel rides. Anilv
  5. It's all about reducing the contact area. Less contact area=less friction, which is what jewels are all about. Anilv
  6. Glad it worked out Peter, that's a typical sign of worn barrel pivots. Anilv
  7. probably wear and tear. Problem with russian watches is that while the movements are good, the cases are pathetic, offering little in the way of protecton from humidity and dust. Hence they require regular servicing. Anilv
  8. CHeck that the barrel does not tilt when installed. If it does the holes in the barrel bridge or mainplate could be worn slightly, that is why it works when you press down the barrel bridge. Anilv
  9. The Inca spring has pivots and flips up. The Raketa one just slides out sideways after releasing the two prongs. I had to buy a donor to harvest this spring a few months back. Anilv
  10. Its quite difficult to glue feet back on but heres a tip. I usually do it first before assembling. What I do is fit the feet back in a bare movement so that they stick out a bit equally, then dress the tips so that they are flat, Next Apply some JB weld to the dial where you want the feet to go .. sighting thru the hole in the middle of the dial to ensure you get it really centred. Use blobs of rodico on the edges to ensure the dial stays level. If you like you can reattach the centre wheels, canon pinion/minute wheel to ensure that the dial is really centred. Leave it overnight or longer and then remove dial from movement . Good luck Anilv
  11. The u shaped thing goes under the cock and locks the balance jewel setting which goes from the top. The stud holder and regulator go below the jewel setting above the cock.. usually the regulator above and the stud holder closes to the top of the balance cock. Anilv
  12. The reason it rubs is because there is wear in the bearing. Proper repair is to replace the bearing. Sorry no leads on where to source a bearing. I think I did cannibalize one from an Orient but that was a few years ago. Good luck Anilv p.s. Even if you do file down the heads of the screw My guess is that the rotor will then hit the edge of the automatic device bridge.
  13. Sell it on to someone who can. I can't make a balance shaft , its too much effort so I'm pretty content to just replace them if I can source parts. Otherwise it moves on. Anilv
  14. Moving the stud holder brings the watch in beat. ETAchron moves to keep the hairspring centered between the regulator pins which is important for consistent timekeeping. You are also able to close the gap while still keeping the hs centered. Anilv
  15. Sorry to ask but did you clean the balance jewels properly? and use the correct oil? when dial up or dial down these parts impact the running a lot. Anilv
  16. Nice ... the Bulova will be challenging as these small movements have super small parts and fine pivots. The Seiko is a real beauty. Anilv
  17. Movement comes out thru the front. And as suggested, replace the screw in the plates (apart from the ones around the rim) otherwise the whole thing may come apart! good luck Anilv
  18. Cant imagine how an app will detect magnetism but Im not so good with phones anyway! With regards to demagnetising... you have to hold the watch near the device, switch it on, the draw the watch away. If you switch it on and bring the watch to the device and then draw it away I think it does not work. Rgds Anil
  19. One question that crops ip is if the pallet fork did not need oiling then why have oil sinks? My guess is that probably the jewels are used is several other locations (which require oiling) hence having one part simplifies the production supply chain. Having said that, I have seen 6309 movements where the pallet fork jewels have no oil-sinks, ie flat on both sides... so I would guess that its not supposed to be oiled. Oh well I never oil the pivots and they seem to work fine. Anilv
  20. If you're adventurous you can trace the spring out on a piece of spring steel (hacksaw blade is good) and invest in some micro drills, dremel tool(or similar) and good quality files. Use the drill for the two holes and drills+ dremel to get close to the final shape and finish off with files. Dont bother with the thickness (the hacksaw blade will be too thick) as thinning it down will be the final bit once you have the shape right. There may be a chamfer on the screw holes. You may find the metal hard (it is hardened steel) and you can remove the temper by heating it to red and letting it cool normally. Problem is to get it hardened again.. theory is to heat it red hot and quench it in oil. In my experience its pretty tough to get right but for this piece its not so critical.. The ones I've done have held up so far. May take a few attempts but with this you are one step closer to being a real watchmaker!. Anilv
  21. Thanks warchweasol that was exactly what u was looking for!
  22. Hi guys.. Putting together an Omega which had had it's balance harvested for another watch. I have a spare hairspring but the balance cock has been dismantled. It looks like all the pieces are present but wonder if anybody could help with the order of assembly. I believe the wave washer should go first, followed by the stud holder then regulator. The whole thing is then held in place by the balance jewel setting. What do you guys think? Below pic with the parts in sequence (as I see it). Thanks Anilv
  23. For really dirty reverser wheels I clean them in alcohol jar followed by ultrasound.. Some reverser wheels have jewels and some dont. Those without jewels usually need the alcohol treatment. Anilv
  24. They're not as efficient as ball bearings but a clean and lube with just s drop of thin (9010) oil works. Too thick oil an dit will drag.. not to mention turn to paste and gum things up further. If you've bought NOS rotors, you can press out the bearing and press it into your old rotor if you want to keep it looking original. Cheers Ailv
  25. for plastic parts just cleam them with Rodico. For the mainspring I would remove, clean, oil and reinstall. Installing by hand is not hard ... they dont have much power like alarm clocks, the hardest bit is starting the spring in the barrel. Just make sure you do it away from the workbench. ...and use gloves as mentioned above. Anilv
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