Jump to content

Recommended Posts

L&R is used by many with no issues. I  have used Elma which also worked fine I just thought it gave off more fumes but the cleaning was fine. I use the the method Mark uses every part in the jars (apart from plastics) I have had no tarnishing or issues. For really dirty movements I give the parts a pre-clean with a de-greaser just to preserve the cleaning solution for as long as possible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As a complete novice, I am intending to learn slowly on project movements.    My question is:  What is the best method to go about cleaning without an ultrasonic ?

I am in no great rush, and obviously will only be working on my own stuff.

 

THanks,

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use lighter fluid or 99% alcohol. But do not use these in a ultrasonic if you purchase one. Watch marks videos on dismantling and assembling. Obviously an ultrasonic and good cleaner for it, are better choices, but as you are learning, they do just a good job.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi  Unless you want to dismantle every thing and hand clean in Naptha, Iso Carb cleaner. Invest as bjd suggests it will pay dividends in the long run.
Id assume they would dismantle everything. Use the fiberglass pen brush. Ultrasonic using the zenith and rinse using the naptha. The zippo fluid I use for balance assembly soak. The fiberglass brush is messy as it will get tiny little peices of fiber glass everywhere so use latex gloves and do it in a separate location from your bench. I also use an air compressor with a needle fitting used to inflate basketballs and footballs. Im not an expert by no means but this method has allowed me to restore some pretty roached out movements. The fiberglass pen brush is amazing. I also have one that has brass bristles for that really tough clean.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use lighter fluid or 99% alcohol. But do not use these in a ultrasonic if you purchase one. Watch marks videos on dismantling and assembling. Obviously an ultrasonic and good cleaner for it, are better choices, but as you are learning, they do just a good job.
Yeah.....def dont use anything flamable in the UC. Mine has a heated function which helps tremendously.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, bjd1020 said:

Yeah.....def dont use anything flamable in the UC. Mine has a heated function which helps tremendously.

Which pretty much reduces the usable solutions to ammonia and soap water.
I have been doing without the U/S since it broke years ago, and I'm still surviving. 

 
Quote

Yeah.....def dont use anything flamable in the UC. Mine has a heated function which helps tremendously.

Check the many threads about using petroleum ether (refined naphta) and Isopropyl alcohol instead of household products. They don't even cost much more, but have guaranteed purity.

Edited by jdm
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All

I know some of the viewers reading this post will cringe when they read this but, keep in mind that I am working on <$10US watches from thrift stores that do not run now. So... a watch that will run for 6 ~12 months before needing to be cleaned again is just fine at time.  

As stated, I am a noob at watch repair/cleaning. I have read a few places about watch cleaning solutions (L&R, etc.) that I should use. The problem is, I am on a budget and I want to spend the right money at the right time. By that I mean I am spending my money on basic tools (screw drivers, etc.) and not $40EU/$50US per liter for watch cleaner and the same again on watch rinse. With that being said, I am seeking help - What chemicals can I get locally (Walmart, Target, Home Depot, etc.) that will work for cleaning watch parts?

Can I use Isopropyl 70% Alcohol?

Can I use peroxide 3%?

Can I use Easy-Off oven cleaner?

Can I use paint thinner?

Can I use concentrated Ammonia (via dilution ratio)? 

Can I use CLR - Calcium, Lime, Rust remover (US based product)?

Can I use lighter fluid?

Can I use carburetor clearer - what type? 

Is there something else that will work that don't know about? Also I found a simple ultrasonic jewelry cleaner for $7 (which I think will be useful)

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi and welcome to the forum, Regarding cleaning and the fluids to use, In the beginning steer away from household cleaners as you have no way of knowing how they will react with the different metals in a watch. To start with use either Isopropyl alchohol 99% or carburetter cleaner ( no Residue) or simply use Naptha  (lighter fuel) ronsol being one, there are several to choose from. Remember all these products are highly inflamable so must be used in controlled circumstances. All the above will do the job while you are learning. Once your level of competence gets better then move on to some branded cleaner.  It is best not to use the above chemicals in an ultrasonic as is but put water into the ultrasonic put the chemical in a small jar with the parts and put into the machine keeping the water level below that of the jar. The waves will pass through the jar cleaning the parts. But be carefull as these chemicals are INFLAMABLE.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Or you can, for starters, go the manual way and use lighter fluid/naptha (which is what most people recommend, especially for beginner work). Could also use some water and diswashing soap I guess. Perhaps some isopropyl for final rinsing.... ?

Careful what you clean and how. The palet fork needs a different approach. Ultrasonic can make the rubis come off.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Many, many topics on the same subject, it's always better to search before asking.

Lighter fluid contains wax, perfume, and other contaminants. It is made to burn well, not to clean well. It was recommendable decades ago when no practical alternatives existed. Use instead petroleum ether, which is pure and leaves no residue. It is cheap and available online.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ronsonol lighter fluid is so safe you can clean watch hairsprings in it. It doesn't dissolve  shellac, so the pallet stones are save and so are the impulse pins on the balance. You can leave parts in Ronsonol for days, providing you have the parts in jar that has a screw fitting lid. The fluid evaporates very quick.  

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, jdm said:

Many, many topics on the same subject, it's always better to search before asking.

First and foremost, I'm sorry for not searching for the subject. It's been ages since I've been on any forum so I am very rusty. Lesson learned. 

Many thanks for all the help! These are all very doable starts. Getting a ultrasonic cleaner seems doable, but I appreciate the notes about Ronsonol and petroleum ether. The jewels have been my biggest concern so these two cleaning methods will make first cleanings a bit more palatable. Thank you, all!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Probably everyone have their own workflow for cleaning watch parts, but the products used for beginners (like me) are usually very similar. Here's a video of a guy I follow and I've learn a lot from, talking about how he used to do it (I think he has improved their method and tools), my workflow as an amateur is very similar, although I use naptha instead of Renata which is not availble in my country I think.

BTW, I add amonia to the water/detergent bath, and add a rinse with distilled water after this first bath.

Also, you need to inspect the parts after the cleaning to remove any remaining oil basically on the jewels. With this and a bit of practice you can get very good results.

 

Edited by aac58
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use naphtha which is essentially lighter fluid.  Get some sealed glass jars from Amazon (Small ones work very well).  You can peg jewels with toothpick/cocktail sticks until you buy some peg wood.  Pith the pivots before and after the first cleaning cycle ( I use three jars successively).  Remember it is flammable and don't breath the vapor from the cleaners any more than necessary.  Naphtha will dissolve many plastics, so be careful or they will contaminate your cleaning jars and potentially damage any plastic parts (Seiko).

 

Good luck and have fun.


RMD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

depending upon your location and how enthusiastic you will be on cleaning watches it's interesting what can be purchased from Amazon. so lots of ultrasonic machines and cleaning fluids. the only problem is there available in 1 gallon containers and cleaning a few watches here and there that gallon will last you a lifetime. the only problem with a gallon of the cleaning fluid is it seems to go bad after a number of years the rinse appears to be stable.

so the link below is for the rinse which in real life is still a cleaning product. Other than the quantity it's actually designed for cleaning watches versus all the other recommendations above even though they're all in the similar category.

 https://www.amazon.com/Ultrasonic-Watch-Rinsing-Solution-Gallon/dp/B01LORNEDC

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
    • Back home...printing now.  Will report results
    • Oh well, if Master @nickelsilver says it's the way to go, then it is the way to go! I stand corrected! 🫡 Are there any other places where you're supposed to remove the epilame from the contact point of rubbing? I don't think so! Thanks for the effort @Neverenoughwatches, much appreciated! 🙂👍
×
×
  • Create New...