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About bjd1020

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    WRT Addict
  • Birthday 10/20/1976

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    Elizabeth City, NC

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  1. As far as the project is concerned noirrac1j can answer, its his baby im just providing the additive manf part. I use all Autodesk products. Fusion 360, Inventor, they also have a powerful slicing app. Ive found that a lot of the end result of a print job depends more on what happens at the beginning. Noirrac1j-i have some new filliments on the way. One is supposed to print completely smooth. As soon as they come in ill run a couple samples and send them up. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  2. We tried on edge which would put the grain running in the preferred direction but result in more support and face up with non preferred grain and less support. These were printed on a flashforge finder which is fairly basic. Weve upgraded to a dreamer which should yield better results with more mat options. What printer are you using?? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  3. Noirrac1j's designs pictured here were printed in PLA. The printer used was a single head with no heated chamber so the mats are limited. Grain direction is obviously a factor. Our new set up has a dual head and heated chamber so we will be using dow's new water soluable support material and we have abs polycarb and many other options including impregnated materials. The final product will look much cleaner. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  4. What type of shock system is it? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  5. Ive been working 7750s for a year now. Ive rebuilt 3 so far. 1 from almost scratch. Im no expert but i have just about every peice of tech data out there and tons of spares if youre looking for anything. Youll get just about all the expert help youll need here. A lot of very experienced and generous folks on this forum. You def come to the right place. Please keep us posted.... Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  6. The add on ebay had it listed as a vintage Omega. I had to replace the balance and rotor. I paid 60 bucks for it. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  7. A05H21 Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  8. I have read through all my tech data on the 7750. This will be the 4th one I have purchased for parts and rebuilt. The chrono bridge here in this one is unfamiliar to me.....can snybody shed some light on where it comes from??? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  9. Looks good Noirrac1j. I have the new printer set up and the water soluble fillament on the way so whenever youre ready for the next itteration let me know. I will also be doing the initial tesy run on the CNC machine this afternoon. I have some bronze billet on the way from McMaster Carr. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  10. The CNC machine has the ability to run a tap cycle so yes youre tracking with me. I was thinking about a traditional screw on back but theres no way to thread something that big on the machine so a screw patern with 6 or 8 screws will be needed. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  11. Its a beaut. Im still waiting on your changes for the case. I have the new printer set up and the cnc machine ready and zi have brass stock coming. The only thing im thinking will be a challenge is the screw back case. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  12. Youre right. My beef isnt with ETA. I love the 7750. Every time I strip and rebuild one I am reminded of the ingenuity that goes into it. What torques me is that Oris utilizes the cheaper movement which only contributes to a long history of shitty customer service from them. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  13. So I decided about a decade ago to get into the exclusive watch club. Not knowing a ton it came down to The Oris TT1 Chronograph or the Tag Aquaracer.....both utilizing the 7750....however the Aquaracer uses a Elabore grade where the Oris uses a standard. I chose the Oris because of its smaller size.....and a savings of about $200........thats where the nightmare began. After about 4 years of wear the threads between the case and crown began to strip until one day the crown would no longer seat. As you may be aware this basically renders the watch useless. The failure of the crown seating happened durring a time when I was getting ready for work. When I got to work I looked at my watch and noticed a ton of moisture inside of it and the crown out......this happened going outside on a humid day. The movement became toasted. Oris was willing to do absolutely nothing and their only North American service center Boston Watch was willing to charge me a cool $2800 to fix the watch......a mere $300 more than I paid for it. I took on the task of learning to rebuild the movement myself which after a year I have become a 7750 amateur tech and can strip and rebuild it at will. Now.....I needed a new crown....which most of you know takes about 10 mins to install......the MONOPOLY set up by Oris, Boston Watch compnay offered to take my watch and "inspect" and install a new crown for $300. I cannot get this part anywhere else. Unless you want to become handcuffed to this Monopoly at some point and their willingness to gauge you to be able to wear your watch do not buy an Oris. Spend the extra few bucks and get a real watch like a Tag. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
  14. Thanks for taking the time to chime in. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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