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Chopin

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Everything posted by Chopin

  1. I believe it says Swiss Made on the dial so that officially makes it a fake or, at most, a genuine watch with a swapped out movement.
  2. NEVER give up searching for parts that jumped throughout the room. I speak from experience.
  3. That part might be interchangeable with a few othe movements, just in case it helps. Not always like that but sometimes the same part is used in a couple of movements. Do you have a photo of it ?
  4. Wait, one of the lugs is broken off ? I hadn't noticed. Given that you have to make it identical to the others it'll be tricky... As jdm said, this can cost quite a bit of money... Regarding the crystal, it's quite possible that it has cement already so pushing it out will probably be tricky and I advice proceeding with caution.Study the edges a bit, see if you spot any glue or residue. When trying to push it out, do it slowly and correctly so as not to break the crystal. Glass presses have all sorts of changeable dies. Usually round but there are some for rectangular/uneven crystals as well. Look it up, you'll understand what I mean. An example:
  5. Indeed it sounds like it needs a good service. I hate working on ladies movements but I have to do it every now and then...
  6. The hairspring stud slightly pulling the hairspring down was a bit weird to me as well but I too thought that it might be the weight. When placed in the movement it seems to be flat/horizontal as it should. Nothing looks off... I have taken the movement apart again (for the 10th-15th time...) and looked at 2 plastic gears that each had a tooth or two that didn't seem 100% pointy (think I corrected them but it didn't seem like they would influence good running of the movement) but I had done various tests and it didn't stop running before and I don't think that such an issue would cause a movement to run fast... Put the watch back together and about 2 hours ago it ran at between +60 to +100 seconds (I don't have a timegrapher so have to do with an app but it seems to do an OKish job). Measured it again and now it's at a constant +112 seconds/24h. I did wind the mainspring some more so I wonder if that may have influenced it a bit... (when it ran at +250 seconds it wasn't wound as much as it is now, though, so keep that in mind). It doesn't seem to be stopping now but I haven't added the seconds hand which would always cause to stop it after a few minutes... The regulator is in the middle as I don't want to influence anything in that area just yet... The stud can also be rotated to adjust the distance between spires of the hairspring and I've always had them evened out. Also here's what I observed in the hairspring itself, the fact that it'll coil more in one side and less in the other. Shouldn't it coil evenly on both sides ? (by "coils" I mean the motion of expanding or coiling up; when the hairspring expands it'll expand in the left side but not much in the right side)
  7. I can't tell from your pics if the stem simply screws into the crown or was supposed to be attached to the crown without coming off (unless broken). Many if nost most Seikos have the latter type where the two parts are not supposed to separate and if it does you need a replacement. Did you pull too hard ? Was this the first time that you did this ? I believe the dial is misaligned because the stem isn't holding it in place anymore. The case back also helps in this situation as it too holds movements in place, in general. Does the stem screw into the crown tube ?
  8. Welcome Mike. We all start somewhere. We were all in your spot at some point. It's very important to be patient with this hobby/job, first and foremost, and also keep an eye out for various details. This way you won't rush and mess things up and you'll eventually end up figuring out how to deal with various challenges.
  9. I think it looks good. Love the watch, too. :)
  10. Have checked all sorts of possible scenarions/areas/parts... Here's more observations: - the movement would stop after a few minutes if the seconds hand was installed; remove the seconds hand and it ran all day without stopping (the seconds hand is attached to a long rod that goes down the center of the movement and into a gear) - now it stops after a few minutes even if the seconds hand is not installed; I can restart the movement by jiggling the large white gear that is attached to the mainspring below it - the hairspring doesn't seem to coil evenly when the movement runs; only half of it coils up while the other half only coils up a bit. (shouldn't it coil up in/out evenly?) 20191202_164116.mp4
  11. That's a nice little watch and definitely salvageable. You need to know what you're doing before fixing it up entirely, though. The crown... either the stem is bent or the crown tube that the stem goes into is bent... What do you want to to with the crystal ? Replace it or just clean/polish it ? Hypo GS cement is probably what you're after. It takes a bit to dry up and it's transparent. Maybe you didn't wind it up to the maximum (don't do that until you've inspected and serviced the movement; it's an old watch...). Usually if there's something broken inside it won't wind at all (the mainspring will uncoil each time you wind it once you let go of the crown). I'm guessing these came on a leather strap. You'll need one that can be installed on fixed lugs. I think they're called open ended straps.
  12. Plastic movement tissot 2250. Nothing damaged inside but it keeps running at about +250 s/24h so I'm suspecting the hairspring.
  13. I had to improvise a bit... not sure if pic is good but I am pleased with the result. like I said it was only a bit opaque due to age, I guess.
  14. I had some diamond paste around and decided to use it. Result is good overall. The glass had no visible scratches with the naked eye but it was a bit opaque. The paste did the job. (Not perfect but almost) Have ordered some gaskets and I hope that the glass will be a tight fit. Will remember your advices for future projects. Thanks!
  15. Is it possible to skip the sandpaper/wetpaper stage ? What other alternatives are there to ceriumoxid ? Also, with wetpaper, given that the glass is only matted/opaque a bit (I'm guessing due to years of wear) could I just use the highest grit possible and then switch to rubbing it with something ? And what sandpaper grit would be good enough ? 200-300 ?
  16. Will check the document out... The one that I need has to have a straight vertical wall and it needs to be 2mm thick though... I wonder if this one would work... But it too seems to have a rounded edge... https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/200mm-domed-cousins For this type of glass, when they say 2mm thick do they mean total height or just thickness of the glass?
  17. Happy Holidays. You seem pretty happy about watchmaking in general. I'm so frustrated with a damned Tissot 2250 plastic movement not running correctly. Again, Happy Holidays to all and best wishes for the next year.
  18. It's not cracked and I don't think that it's scratched either but it is a bit opaque for some reason. Never "polished" a glass crystal so I guess that will be the last thing on my list... It would be cheaper, though. One other problem is the gasket. I have a feeling that the old one is a bit thicker than the modern ones... What is the thickness of modern "L" gaskets ? If it's 1mm or so then it's good.. The ones on cousins seem to be -0,4 or 0,5mm...
  19. Hello guys, I have to change the glass and gasket of a swiss ladies vintage watch but I'm a bit stuck as I've never encountered this type before. I did some light searching on Cousins but since I'm not sure what to look for I decided to post here before ordering anything. I'm posting pics and a wannabe schematic below for help. I guess it's not mandatory to go for glass and I could opt for acrylic as well but I'm not sure if I can find the right type and dimensions. With my limited knowledge I stopped at this particular type (link) but sadly they don't have the smaller diameter that I need. There is also one that is flat bottomed but I wonder if the dial and hands will be correctly visible with that kind of glass. From what I've seen the original one has magnifying properties (probably because it's not flat bottomed). Would there be a similar type of crystal on the acrylic side ? The gasket seems to be "S" shaped but I assume that the "L" shaped ones will be fine as well. Side view of the original glass in the case. Ideally I'd like to buy from Cousins as I already have an account with them and prices are good.
  20. Without messing it up you will only be able to clean it up by about 25% or so... Even that can be a tad risky, especially with the indexes, writing, numerals, etc. It looks good as it is if you ask me. It has personality and patina. Not gonna be able to make it look brand new. I would say that your only bet is to lightly tap the dial with some cleaning substance and some cotton and that's about it. If it'll remove some of the dirt then that'd be good enough.
  21. Thanks guys, so that would be a no on my part, then. It's not the size that is the problem but the height of the vertical edge/wall of the crystal. The ATHC starts to curb halway while the one that I need needs to be straight/vertical almost to the top of the overall height of the crystal (as the photo shows). I just don't know what type of crystal it is since it's clearly not an ATHC.
  22. Hello guys, I come with a question for those of you that probably have experimented around. I have a watch with a crystal that has a few small hairline cracks (all the way down, so to speak) and I was just wondering if it wouldn't be possible to have them fixed/covered/filled by simply applying some type of adhesive that enters the cracks. I'm asking because I recently saw a video of someone fixing a cracked windshied by inserting some transparent adhesive into the cracks and they eventually disappeared as the adhesive dried. The watch has a bit of an unusual crystal. I ordered an ATCH crystal but apparently it wasn't perfect. Apparently the vertical outer wall isn't as long as the old one (basically 2/3 through it starts to curve; measured bottom to top). (photo of the old one below, in case someone could help me name this type of crystal)
  23. You should use a case knife not a screwdriver. Be careful when prying not to insert the knife blade too much or fiddle it around as you might break the parts inside/underneath the bezel. (usually there's either a steel spring wire part or a steel flat circle and they're a bit fragile).
  24. I've seen a couple of Swiss Sector watches that were just as good as more expensive brands... Indeed underrated...
  25. Partially took it apart and checked the MS which was fine. Added some lubrication, put it all back together and not it seems to run fine, for now. Could lack of lube in the MS cause something like this or maybe there was something stuck in the gear train somewhere ?
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