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Everything posted by Chopin

  1. I've seen a couple of Swiss Sector watches that were just as good as more expensive brands... Indeed underrated...
  2. Partially took it apart and checked the MS which was fine. Added some lubrication, put it all back together and not it seems to run fine, for now. Could lack of lube in the MS cause something like this or maybe there was something stuck in the gear train somewhere ?
  3. I don't have a timegrapher, sadly. I have checked the jewels and the balance but I couldn't find anything wrong with it. They are clean and lubricated. Might have to take it all apart, again, and check the MS but I wanted to inquire first in case the solution is somewhere else.
  4. Long story short I serviced a ladies swiss watch with a generic-nothing-special movement. It wasn't running before but looked like it needed just a service. No damaged parts as far as I can tell but there was some rust around mostly in the keyless works area. The watch seems to run but it stops, sometimes, if I change the angle or lightly shake it. Also the hairspring doesn't seem to spin very energetic, seems just a tad lazy. If I remove the incabloc rubies system it feels a bit better but haven't tried changing the angle... One thing that I did not check or clean is the mainspring. With the watch unwound if I spin the hairspring around it doesn't seem to stop if I change the angle.
  5. I had the same problem on a Longines and it's what Marc described. It's that little spring that presses on the pinion or whatever it's called that the seconds hand is attached to on the other end. On mine I had simply misadjusted it.
  6. Call me paranoid but I would not use the air blowing method on any watch (unless it had no small moving parts but what watch has that, right?). I'd rather just use the claw tool to remove teh crystal.
  7. Alright, I figured it out. It's this hole here where the tab that needs to be pushed is located.
  8. Indeed that is not the correct style for a 40s watch... Have you tried eBay ?
  9. When in doubt I go for the larger size... I'd say get the tap 11.
  10. The thing is that I loosened that screw near the stem (quite a bit) and it didn't work but I might have to retry.
  11. It's partly made out of plastic... Will further check tomorrow.
  12. The part that you pointed the arrow at actually moves as you pull or push the crown so that's why I fear it might not be what needs to be pushed. Will try to check tomorrow. I did think of that hole but I can't see much inside...
  13. Here's a better image I hope. I can't see anything that should/could be pressed.
  14. Could someone tell me how I can remove the stem from such a watch ? I believe it's a rebrand of an ESA 9181. I can see a fairly large screw in the stem area but I'm not sure if it's that one. There is a two-sided arrow near it as well. Also, I should pull the crown all the way out before attempting to unscrew anything, right ? Generic pic off the internet.
  15. @noirrac1j Are you going to use a normal sheet of straight acrylic and then somehow bend it ? Curious to find out how one could custom make a curved acrylic crystal.
  16. Photo of the screw and plate. It seems like this circled part below is moving just a bit downwards (talking about the tip that holds the gear not the entire part) but only when the hands are adjusted clockwise and only when it reaches the borken tip does the gear that it holds start to slip and not engage with the minute wheel. Also, strangely, if I take a few parts out and put them back it can run well for a few rotations but then something goes bad and the issue begins to repeat. It's as if the canon pinion is smoother and then it becomes a bit stiffer...
  17. Here you go. Doesn't look like the one you need.
  18. How come the screw is wrong ? How does the screw influence all this ? What should I be looking at exactly ? How does one know that it's wrong ? PS: that little plate (that covers the parts) is flat from what I can tell.
  19. As far as I know watchmakers would just replace them entirely but as Tmuir points out, this is difficult in modern times because a new mainspring barrel might not fit.
  20. What I'm confused about is the fact that with all the parts in place it only slips when adjusting the hands clockwise. If I adjust them counter-clockwise it works fine. I'll try loosening the canon pinion... Out of curiosity what is the correct way to loosen such a canon pinion ? Are you supposed to slightly pull the 2 tabs that hold the tube outwards or what ? Also I still get the impression that the small steel gear might not engage properly with the minute wheel due to pivoting just slightly. Not sure.
  21. Theoretically these were sealed "for life" hence the do not open warning. I've seen it on Zodiacs but I believe there were others that had such mainsprings... I'm curious so know whether they are, indeed, good for prolonged periods of time (decades) or did they still replace them every 5-10 years. Also, if you open one, can you close it back safely ?
  22. When I take out the canon pinion. It all functions as it should. When I add the canon pinion the crown eventually slips and it seems to do so when the small steel gear "reaches" the slightly broken tip of the minute gear's tooth. I have loosened the canon pinion just a bit but I don't think that it's enough... Would I be able to make this work by loosening it a bit more ? That damaged tooth is only missing a fraction of it's tip...
  23. I did check the pinion. It was a bit tight but I did loosen it a bit. Not sure what caused the tip of the tooth to break but something was probably too tight, indeed. Interestingly enough is that it mostly seems to slip only clockwise. Counterclockwise it functions better. Probably because of the angle of the smaller steel wheel that turns the minute wheel and pivots a bit depending on whether you adjust the hands clockwise or anti-clockwise.
  24. Yeah I think I found it. Minute wheel #260. Now I have to source one.
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