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1) flat jewel for wheels: picture shows a jewel with oil sink. Straight hole. Not hole 8 or 9. 2) balance jewel, olive hole: picture shows a domed jewel without oil sink. B + sizes. 3) flat jewel, olive hole: hole size 8 or 9 only. Frank
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By mattynist1 · Posted
Hey folks, first time poster here. Starting into watch repair and swapping out a movement with another and have a donor watch. I incorrectly yanked a stem out that I assumed was a split stem but I think the case back just is hard to get off. By doing this, I can put the stem back in but it fairly easily pulls out now so I think I broke something. Not a huge deal as this was the donor but I’m hoping to get confirmation that I toasted a particular piece. I know movements generally have a screw or push release for the stem if not a split stem so I think I just made a rookie whoopsy. The case back doesn’t have a groove for a knife nor is a screw down which is what led me to the split stem assumption… I may just need a razor blade to create a gap in the case back to get a knife underneath. On the donor I could certainly push the watch back out of the case, just don’t want to make the same mistake on the watch I’m rehabbing. is anyone familiar with this movement or can definitively tell if I broke the donor piece that holds in the stem? Not a huge deal since it’s a harvester movement for me. thanks all, looking forward to learning a lot! -
By LazyTimegrapher · Posted
That’s a fair point and is what’s stopped me from making a more concerted effort to open it. Since it’s got an SW200 in it, I was thinking of getting an Invicta diver with the same movement for $200 or so and messing with that first. I was thinking that the SW200 fine regulation screw would be easy to turn to slow the watch down a bit, but maybe it’s easy to break the movement even doing something simple like that.
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