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Hi my name is Harold Ship. I live in Mitzpe Netofa, Israel. I have a Seiko SNK803, a Sea-Gull ST5, and an HMT frankenstein Kanchan. I would like to start learning about and tinkering with mechanical watches. I love your videos!

Hello everyone from Florida! My name is Scott and I have been working with mostly Timex watches for the past four years (restoring and collecting) and have recently branched out into Seiko's. My first refurbish is a '68 6119 and has been both rewarding and challenging. SO much to learn! I belong to another forum which is great, and was recommended this forum by a member here. This looks to be a great place to hang out to both learn and contribute what I can. Thanks! Scott

Today Im wearing this very nice old Seiko....

I have been given my grandfather's old Seiko watch. I like the watch and it has a lot of sentimental value to me but I know very little about watches. It has been sitting in a cupboard for the last 20 years and now it tells the time very badly. I set the watch and it often works for many hours perfectly fine and then will suddenly lose a lot of time. I took it to a watch repair shop and it was explained to me that over time the oil within the watch goes, "clumpy". That's how it was described t me. I was told that the entire watch would need to be taken apart and cleaned and re-lubricated. I was quoted 250 Euros mimimum for doing so and was told that it would be even more if parts needed replacing. That is way more than I can afford so I started watching videos about how watches are serviced. I am pretty good at doing fine delicate work and I am pretty confident I could manage it myself but I wanted input from people with more knowledge than me. Firstly, can anyone tell me anything about my watch? It is a good Seiko watch? Is there anything I need to know about it? How would it compare trying to service this watch over other watches? Should I get hold of a cheap watch and take that apart first? One other thing I need to know is about one of the tools. I watched a great video of someone disassembling a Seiko automatic watch, cleaning it and then re-lubricating it and putting it back together again. It all looked fairly straight forward apart from the main spring. He used a special tool for rewinding the spring before putting it back into the housing that holds the spring. Does anyone know what that tool is called and where I could get one from? I am in Germany. Below are pictures of my watch. Thanks in advance for any advice or help anyone gives. https://postimg.org/image/99y2k4459/ https://postimg.org/image/5g4maymt9/

Been a while since I've been here as I've been stupidly busy with work for a few months. Last couple of days I've managed to get my practice watches out again and I dismantled a Seiko 6309 movement, cleaned it all and am now putting it back together.Chose this one as I thought it might be a good place to start practising servicing movements and I do have a lot of Seikos. All was going quite well, or so I thought. Took me ages to get the pallet fork back in and pallet cock aligned (maybe I've not done that properly? When I screwed down the pallet cock more tightly the pallet fork stopped moving so I loosened it a bit, is that a sign that the fork pointy bit is not in the cock hole?). Then I put the balance back in but it's not doing its thing. If I move it by hand I can feel that it is slightly rubbing somewhere. I also don't think the click is engaged although I swear it's in its mounting hole so not sure if that means power not being stored. I'm packing up for tonight as I'm losing the will. I'm hoping that someone may be able to look at the pics below or recognise the description and say, "Pip, you're being a complete pallet cock! The problem is...XYZ!" Thanks in advance for any advice you're able to give. Pip

Cheers Mates Needs some spare to an 6309A movment im working on, somebody knows where to find new or used working gears? See photo Thanks Armand

Cheers Mates... One of my 6105-8110 would not start while I did the usual shake, to get them going. And I started to take it apart. And when I removed the winding work, I could see this, see photoes. And I have following question: 1. The gear wheel have some marks on the side towards the watch, should I do somthing about that? (Photo 1) 2. Where should those grapples intervene into the gear wheel ? (Photo 2) 3. Should it intervene like this? Thanks and best Armand

Hi guys, I have this lovely old Seiko, but the glass is broke. Round glasses, obviously are done by diameter. However, the sizes come with dimensions of, for example MBr 139x139.1 Sternkreuz. How do you figure out what size it is, and what you need?

I've at the very early end of the learning curve and am halfway (although that may be optimistic) through my first ever disassembly/reassembly and service, which I'm using a Seiko 6119-7000 for. I've completely disassembled (well, not got down to popping jewels out) and cleaned and am currently reassembling. But I can't get the 'framework for automatic device' (FFAD) to sit right. There's something that is acting almost as a rocker that it's sitting on so if i screw the FFAD down at both ends it is in effect slightly bent and seems to be preventing everything from moving. Is there anything on the transmission side that needs to 'slot into' the FFAD? I've just re-looked at the diagrams and I'm not sure but maybe the transmission wheel slots in, didn't spot that last night. If so is there an easy way to get it lined up? ("No" I hear you all cry in unison followed by knowing laughter). Thanks, Pip.

Hi I'm trying to solve an annoying puzzle: I have a fully functional seiko 6139A movement which I disassembled for cleaning and oiling. I placed all parts of the keyless and made sure that the stem is functioning and that it is secured by the setting lever. Nevertheless, once I reassemble the rest of the "dial side" parts, I cannot secure the stem back in again. It seems to me like the setting lever isn't pressed against the stem by the setting lever "plate", but for a reason I cannot tell. Do you have any suggestion? THANKS !

My name is Kevin. I grew up in Portland Oregon and Hollywood California. I live in Los Angeles, and spend time between LA and a town I cannot pronounce 50km northeast of Bangkok Thailand. I have a few watches and do not fix them. I have had issues with expensive repairs. I would explain but I would hate to get banned so soon. My daily watch is a Seiko SKX007 or a Marathon GSAR. The Maratac SR-9015L is favored over my Submariner, which I cannot explain. My newest is a Seiko Zimbe. None are for sale, which is not allowed here. Good policy. I am on Timezone, Rolex forums and others. I will discuss watches with anyone. Discussing time required some understanding of physics. Probably boring. Mark, your videos are great. I can talk with Jack, my watch repairman, in detail more than "it doesnt run". I am beginning to understand in-beat and a few detail I have not mastered. Someday I will find a master artist to redo my Rolex 1675 dial. The cracking never bothered me. These things happen with years of daily use. I felt old when an AD refered to my 1675 as vintage, new in 1983. I see your crossed a Patreon milestone. Good for you.

I received this really nice Seiko 7T42-6A00 to service and the description was that the timer (yes, this particular 7Txx model has a timer also) was not working. After first inspection, actually I noticed that it had some more issues, among which the quickdate that was not working. I made a video presentation of this watch: I decided to strip down completely the movement since it apparently had never being serviced. A movement swap was just not an option... Opening the case no sign of damage was visible, although I did notice some very fine white dust, probably some acid liquid that had dried out. Removing the movement from the case, and inspecting it, showed indeed traces of dried up acid:

Thought I'd share some pics of the watch I worked on over the weekend. This Seiko was part of a lot of 3 watches off the bay...I was actually attracted to the Citizen but the other two Seikos were plus points as they had the 6119 movement which has to be my favourite Seiko movement. This Seiko was a bit beat up with a heavily scored crystal but the dial and hands looked good. In the picture below the chapter ring is a bit out of alignment. A bit weird as the ring is keyed to the dial in these models. Watch was running but would get a service nonetheless. Caseback looked to have escaped the attention of the butchers. Opening the caseback revealed a nice 6119 ticking away...no water damage evident, surprising looking at the case sealing area. It is a mess and it would not be possible to get a good seal here. Probably the watch was still running as it was serviced in 2010. Well the servicing of the movement went well with no hitches. I then turned my attention to the case. I was looking thru my parts stash for a 330 crystal I could use and found this..This would have been a typical replacement crystal here in Asia back in the day and has survived well. Not surprising it is the correct size and shape as its marked 6119-8273 on the packet! Crystal install went without any drama as the gasket was still serviceable. Sides were polished to get rid of the many little scratches. And here it is on my wrist! Couldn't do much about the condition of the chapter ring but at least its aligned properly! I really enjoy rescuing these watches and giving them a new lease of life. Hope you enjoyed the pics. Anil

As pe the title, here a small comparison video of my Seiko Quartz Chronographs from the 7Txx series. Enjoy!

This is my first disassembly. The movement is a 7s26 from a Seiko 5 watch. It was running a few minutes at a time before disassembly. The oscillating weight was in two pieces. It appears the three pins(?) have all broken. My questions are: Can this be repaired? Is it as simple as pushing the broken pins out and replacement? What tool would I need to perform such a repair. I know I can replace the complete oscillating weight, but what fun would that be? Thanks for your time and knowledge,

HI EVERYONE ...I had a Seiko5 SNZG15K1 ...I started playing around with the regulator and bought a timegraph 1000 ... anyways as I was moving the beat lever the hairspring stopped . I removed the spring , wheel and cock and the spring was a mess. I just want to know do these watches come ready to regulate or do you have to turn the brass stay bits on the end that hold the spring ..I think that the spring jumped on mine .but at the time I wasn't thinking straight and ran to disassemble it when I should of looked a bit closer back then ..Thanks Lenny...........

Now I don't blame the seller for this, but a glued on dial?!?, I knew it the moment I opened case, but was able to very carefully pry away dial with xacto blade. (thankfully cheap glue!) One mismatched 23 jewel in a 17j case! (BONUS), this is why I always look for case/movement/dial numbers or ask questions if pics are not clear. All three were listed parts and repair, so for $20USD + $6 ship, why not? The glued dial is running and the "TV looking" case is a 6309, (17J) in a 6349, (23j case), I think I will correct. Oh and found a phantom screw, not from movement, hanging out under balance, once removed, she started running. All in all not a bad weekend, two out of three runners and 23 jewel to boot! BTW it has badly handled hairspring, probably replace entire balance.

Hello all, I reside in Holland, but originate from London. Hit my mid 40's and became a watch-nut - go figure? I think the main reason is that, as hobbies go, Horology can be hidden nicely away from my wife's eye's. She currently thinks I am saving up for an Omega Seamaster - and doesn't realise it is already stashed safely away in my watch box! Happy days!!! Regards, Dutch.

Its funny how despite having handled and still handling so many timepieces i have never bought a watch brand new for myself. So with a few ideas in mind i decided to bite the bullet and say yes, treat yourself :) Whilst i do still love my Omegas,JLC's and Rolex's, they are all pre-owned and have always been someone else's first. My first watch which i bought myself was actually a Casio but that was well over 25 years ago now and i felt the need to finally have something i can happily say is mine, and mine first. The problem i had is likely the problem we all have as watch lovers, and that's choice, so with a few key factors in mind i thought about and searched for my perfect everyday wear watch. Its been a long tradition in the male side of my family to buy a Seiko, my great grandfather and grandfather both had Seiko's as has my own father ( in fact he has had 3 ;) ). I myself have owned a few good Seiko's, again these have been used, never new. So in keeping with a family tradition i set about finding one that was just right and ticked the boxes. Requirements > Good Looking - Both daily and Dress Reliable Quality Movement Tough & Waterproof Value for money Fully Automatic with day & date Comfortable This is what i found and fell in love with..... Seiko SNZF17 K1 - aka Sea Urchin It's still very factory fresh and running a little fast ( i expect it to settle down after a few days of wear ) but she fits like a glove. The watch is stunning quality for the money ( £90 with free shipping :) ) with a very good strap that is heavy but comfortable. It is still early days but i have to say im impressed with the quality, and for what i paid i think i have a good daily wearer. I may be investing in another Seiko in the future ;) Just sharing my thoughts :)

Hi guys, Im servicing a really grimy Seiko 7005-8020 watch, and after finally getting the corroded case back off (used the classic superglued screw-nut trick) I'm stuck at the movement rubber (plastic?) gasket and metal movement ring. The just won't move. Two questions: Is there a trick getting the gasket off? It seems fairly hard, if I try to pry it it will probably break. Is it easy to source new generic gaskets for Seiko watches? I need both flat and round plastic and silicone gaskets for my ongoing projects, is it OK to just replace them with something similar of the same size?

I am collecting, repairing and mostly interested in Seiko 7Txx and 7Axx series of watches, when it comes to quartz movements, but for the 7Txx I limit my search to the 32 and 36 series, I made a small exception, though, when I saw this 7T42-7A2A: The watch was sold as non-working, but I thought I could repair it no problem. after all, I got some spare parts for the 7T32 movement in my spare box, so I gave it a go. Actually, I found out later when it arrived that is was a NOS! And it was not working because it had no battery :D So I installed a new fresh battery, but nothing moved...I stripped it down, cleaned it, oiled it, reinstalled the battery and... voila! it lives! The chronograph minute counter doubles up as a countdown second/minute counter, when the second crown is pulled out to the first position, just as you'd do to engage the alarm in all Seikos 7Txx series watches. Pressing the top left pusher you set the amount of time, in minutes, to be counted, and pressing the top right pusher starts the countdown. I like this watch particularly, since it has basically all the functions one would expect from a modern chronograph: stopwatch and countdown, alarm and dual time. It is a complete time piece. Furthermore, the fact that it is a NOS just makes it perfect for collection.

Christmas has come early, just received a brand new Timegrapher 1900 (cause I've been a good boy and have only used naughty words 99 times a day instead of the usual 200+). Have been looking for lift angles of various Seiko movements but the links to lists have dried up, any one out there have these?

Service of a Seiko 6106 Movement Sorry I have been slack posting movements I've serviced at home, but work has been busy, and the movements I've been servicing are not that different than what I've already posted ... just more of the same. Well, I got another one of my Mum's friends who asked if I could repair their watch that was given to him on his wedding day by his wife: who has now sadly passed away :( Of course I said YES!! And it turned out to be a lovely old Seiko; but a little worse for wear :unsure: The hands had fallen off, and the plexiglass was so scratched you could hardly read the dial. After opening up the caseback, there was evidence of corrosion starting to set in ... but thankfully it was caught in time. Here's what the intact movement looks like. Once the automatic works were removed, it was obvious this poor old thing has never seen a service since it was purchased in 1974. Very dirty, and very dry. This movement has a complex keyless works which included a pusher for rapid date change, so before I started removing the dial side, I pulled the Balance and Pallet Fork ... just to be sure to be sure :) Notice how dirty the movement is from this angle as well. Ok, on to the dial side, to remove the calendar work and the Keyless work. Calendar work is pretty much like all Seiko's ... minus that annoying phillipshead screw, thank the Lord! Here's a picture of the Keyless work, with the incorporated pusher system for date change. More of a close-up of the pusher arm There is also a large spring for the pusher mechanism Once that was all disassembled, it was back to the Train Gears and Mainspring. Notice this movement also has a hack that stops the Train Gears; instead of the Balance ... all very interesting :) And for my good mate Bob ... here's the picie of the Automatic work mate :P Look how dirty and nasty the Eccentric Bearing is ... Ewwwww! Here she is coming back together after a long bath in the suds Lookin much better! I polished the case, and spent about 15mins with Ploywatch trying to polishing all the scratches out of the glass ... but it was just too far gone :( Still at least you can read the Dial now :P Off to the Timegrapher and in typical Seiko fashion, once cleaned it purrs :D Hope you enjoyed this post, and I'll try to post more often guys.

I own a Seiko watch which is quite a number of years old and my grandson, aged 5 took it out without me knowing and has smached the crystal on the watch. How do I go about sizing it, and where should I look for the Crystal? On a second question, I would like to replace an automatic movement from a VOKEN watch, that has a lot of damaged, with a new movement, the watch has a day/date and has these numbers on the back plate; V6 8W 4V-00009 .. How do I go about sizing this up and making sure that it will fit with the day date the right way round, Also where could I order one from. I know that you gentlemen have a lot of experiance between you, and I hope you can help this amature out of this situation. Thank you all very much. David.

Seiko 5J22A Complete Service Hunting through my cupboards I found my old Seiko Kentic "Auto Relay" that I purchased sometime in the 90s, when this was the latest cutting edge Quartz Watch on the market offered by Seiko. It's been sitting for over a decade without use, and I decided to really push myself and, with the Lord's assistance, completely strip and service this watch. So I tracked down the Tech Specs, and if you are thinking of embarking on servicing the 5J22 YOU WILL NEED THEM!! :) So here they are: 5J22A.pdf I will be using the part names from this document for this walkthrough, so download and print it out for you own sanity. The parts in this movement are incredibly small, so much so that my camera had trouble focusing on them ... so part names will help you as much as the visuals aids for this service. Once again, I've had no one to guide me on this, so this is the way "I" stripped the movement down, the correct factory procedure may, and probably does, differ from my way ... so I give a warning here: CONTINUE AT YOUR OWN RISK. Disassembly Unscrew the back cover and store the rubber gasket away safely. With a 2.0mm Screwdriver, pry the Location Ring out with the slots provided in the plastic ring. Remove the Oscillating Weight with a 1.20mm Screwdriver ... and this will be the driver you use on all further screws. To remove the Stem, you need to have the Stem push all the way home, to move the Yoke into the correct position so you can depress the lever (Location shown in picture after I removed the movement to make it easier to see the spot where you push) The movement should now come out of the case along with the internal Bezel Ring. Remove the Hands Remove the 7 screws for the Circuit Block Cover A, and the Rechargeable Battery Clamp (Sorry referred to an older pic to so you the location of screws) Remove the Insulator for Rechargeable Battery, and then the Battery itself. Remove Circuit Block Cover A Remove Circuit Block Cover D Reference picture of Circuit Block Cover D Remove Circuit Block Cover B Reference picture of Circuit Block Cover B Remove Oscillating Weight Bridge Reference picture of Oscillating Weight Bridge Remove Circuit Block Cover C Reference picture of Circuit Block Cover C Remove Circuit Block NOTE: The pin with the yellow arrow pointing to it holds onto the Circuit Block very firmly. Be CAREFULLY and GENTLE, as the Circuit Block can be easily damaged. This is the angle of attack that I recommend. Coming in on an angle just in front of the Crystal Unit, and gently push upwards ... and I mean GENTLY. Patience wins the day! Remove the Intermediate Wheel for the Generating Rotor Remove the Generating Coil Block (grasp with tweezers where indicated with yellow arrow) Remove the Second Coil Block (grasp with tweezers where indicated with yellow arrow) Remove the Hour and Minute Coil Block (grasp with tweezers where indicated with yellow arrow) Remove the Train Wheel Bridge Remove the Second Wheel and Pinion, the Third and Fourth Wheel Remove the Intermediate Second Wheel TIP: Next is this first of three sets of Stators and Rotors that make up this Quartz Movement. Be sure to place all the Stators and Rotors into a piece of Rodico for safe keeping. As shown below: THESE PARTS ARE MAGNETIC AND WILL ATTRACT PARTICLES, SO DO NOT PUT INTO THE BASKET FOR CLEANING Remove the Second Stator and Second Rotor Remove the Minute Wheel and Pinion, Intermediate Minute Wheel, and Setting Wheel Remove the Center Wheel and Pinion Remove the Generating Stator and Generating Rotor Remove the Setting Lever Spring Remove the Yoke and Setting Lever Note: Release tension on the Yoke Spring FIRST Remove the Clutch Wheel and the First Intermediate Wheel for Calendar Corrector Remove the Hour and Minute Stator and Hour and Minute Rotor This side of the Main Plate is now finished ... time to flip it over and start on the Calendar Works Remove the two screws indicated and remove the Hour Wheel Guard Spring, and the Date Dial Guard Remove the Intermediate Date Driving Wheel Remove the Intermediate Hour Wheel, and Hour Wheel Remove the Date Dial Remove the Day-Date Corrector Wheel, Second Intermediate Wheel for Calendar Corrector, Date Driving Wheel and Spring Note the position of tension of the Date Driving Wheel Spring (bottom of page 9 in the Tech Specs) Remove the Circuit Block Spacer ... and the disassembly is complete! I started work on this rather late at night and took my time and studied each part before removing, making sure to document everything carefully. So I'll clean the parts and begin reassembly fresh tomorrow. I can see this one is really going to push my abilities, and I'm looking forward to tackling it and uploading the reassembly steps.