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  1. Good day, I have a strange situation - I have restored a non-running Seiko 7S26A and thought I had done a great job Rate <5 s/d Amplitude >220 degrees Beat Error 0.1 Hands move in sync Day/Date changes correctly Then I notice that the second hand continues to make one revolution every 60 seconds BUT the hour and the minute hand barely move over the course of a day. I pull the crown and both hands move smoothly and correctly. Then once I push the stem back in again the second hand ticks correctly but hour and minute hands are VERY slow. Timegrapher still shows watch is working well. Obviously the train of wheels/balance etc are working well as the watch seconds hand is ticking correctly, and the watch is performing well on the timegrapher. The hour and minute hands are installed correctly and not fowled as I can move them easily and in sync with the winding stem/crown. So what could be stopping/slowing the minute and hour hands from moving correctly (min hand moved 5 mins in about 12 hours), but still allowing the seconds hand to move at the correct speed (60 seconds in 60 seconds) and the watch to perform well on the timegrapher and visual confirmation that the balance/escape wheel/pallet fork are moving well? This has me baffled and I have taken the watch apart/cleaned and re-built with the same result... feel like I'm losing my mind as I don't see how these things can be happening at the same time! (pun intended)
  2. Need help identifying this movement I know it has m929 but every search shows a movement that doesn’t look anything like this
  3. Dear amazing community of watch enthusiasts, a newbie here, with probably something that is a newbie problem. So I bought my first 'vintage' watch to tinker with, a Seiko 7s26A diver's watch from around 1996. I have taken it apart, cleaned the components and started to try putting it all back together. So far so good. I oiled and assembled the keyless works, the main train, the barrel and the barrel and train bridge. Of course testing if everything moves freely. All the jewels seemed to be in the right place as when the barrel is turned with a screwdriver (in either direction) all the gears spin up and everything is beautiful. Next I installed the pallet for and the pallet cock (as far as I can tell without damaging the fork), the pallet fork 'jumps' from side to side when prompted, upon turning the barrel everything still works. Once I try and install the balance spring, it does not start spinning. I have took extra care in slotting it in it's place, when installed and blown some air upon it, it turns freely and comes to a stop very quickly. When I apply some pressure to the barrel (now it only turns clockwise) it doesn't rotate very much, but the balance starts turning just fine. On the other hand, the third wheel now suddenly doesn't turn either (when applying a tiny bit of pressure to turn the third wheel, the balance starts spinning again). I have attached an amazingly shot video to demonstrate my problem. Also tried taking everything apart, reoiling (the only thing that I have not is the diashock, as I do not want to damage that with my inexperience) and putting everything back together. If anyone could help me fix this, I would be eternally grateful. BB
  4. To all My first post besides my intro post. I have my wife’s nephew's Seiko Kinetic 5M42-OM29. It had stopped working. With a quick YouTube search I found Mark Lovick’s posting on how to change the capacitor. That worked great and now I am testing for 24 hours for stability. Now my question, the crystal is very scratched up. I have used the PolyWatch diamond paste for mineral crystal but the scratches are too deep. I am pretty sure I can find a replacement crystal but I am confused on how to remove the crystal. Please see pictures. It looks like it might be a removable bezel but I don’t want to force it if it isn’t removable. I have a glass press but I don’t want to force that either. Suggestions?
  5. I recently serviced this Seiko 4402-8000 King Seiko with a 4402A manual winding movement. I've serviced this grade a couple of times before and it's went OK. Before servicing the watch was gunked up and a non-runner. Since servicing the watch is stopping maybe once or twice a day with the second hand between about the 28 and 32 second mark. Giving it an extra bit of torque by winding will start it off again. I initially thought it was the second hand touching watch crystal, but I've ruled this out by placing some tape inside the crystal to simulate it being lower, and there is still lots of clearance with the second hand. Thinking maybe it was gunk somewhere on the fourth wheel teeth stopping the second hand, I cleaned and inspected the wheel which seems fine. Independent of the position of the second hand relative to the minute hand it will stop around the same point, so I'm assuming it's not something to do with the minute wheel... Any ideas much appreciated! this has me well puzzled.
  6. Hi Watch bangers! I did actually make it a personal goal of mine to present a watch every week but real-life caught up and ive been busy helping people move around haha. Bit nevertheless I am a week late but have another beautifull watch and project report for you guys! This watch was one of a few which I presented my Mother for her birthday to let her decide which one I should fix for her. She chose this vintage Seiko 4206A which I got from Ebay and so I sat down and got to work. Now I bought this watch online because I was really surprised at the remaining quality of the original dials and how there where still so many of them. After purchasing one and reading up a bit online it turned out that this movement line was particularly prone to behave irrationally or to repair so I kind of messe dup but nevertheless, I faced my challenge! The watch on arrival: Disassembly 1. Remove the watch case by unscrewing the back and removing the stem 2. Remove the Watch hands 3. Release the Dial feet from the back with the small levelr at the 10 and the 4 Position I think and remove the dial. As you can see it is in pretty good condition and has a very pretty sunbust effect. There is a slight stain though around the “ Automatic” text which left me kind of clueless since it is a metal surface and I wouldn’t really know what would stain it in such a way. I decided to leave it be to minimize the risk of further damage. Heres a close up picture: 4. Remove the Day clip and the Day wheel underneath it. This revealed a very interesting sping-like swan neck system for the day-wheel quick set system. Never seen that before! 5. Then remove the Day wheel spring and the 24 Hour day turning wheel. 6. Now you can unscrew and remove the main setting cover plate and the attached date wheel. 7. Take away the ( im not sure what this part really is called) but it is part of the quick set system which hooks into the second clutch wheel. 8. Now remove the Date Spring and lever, the bottom day wheel and the hour wheel to remove some more from the front side. 9. Remove the one translation wheel and the setting system sub cover which also separated the two clutches. 10. And finally take out the clitches and the yoke, setting system to completely disassembly the front side. Now you can turn the movement so we can work further on the back side. 11. Remove the Rotor 12. Take off the Automatic module 13. Remove the Winding wheel Y ratchet. I did try to remove the winding wheel in the first run but for some reason the screw did not watch to budge so I left it in for the picture. Off camera however I eventually did make. 14. Remove the elegant arching balance wheel. I was really surprised to see this in this kind of movement since I thought that this kind of design was only present in really high end watches. Interestingly enough the 4206 B however has the classical one winged balance. 15. Remove the Pallet fork system ( sorry for the blurry focus) 16. Take off the main bridge and and the small spring attached to one of the screws. 17. Pick out the Barrel, its ratchet and the 4th and 5th wheel. Interestingly enough the gears wheels have as many holes in them as the number which is kind of cool! 18. Now focus on the little winding module on the bottom right. Remove the translation wheel, the spring and the small bridge to take it out completely. 19. Almost done! Take of the final bridge which holds down the 6th wheel and the escapement. 20. And finally remove the 6th wheel and the escapement wheel. With that, we have completed the disassembly of the Seiko 4206A. Cleaning For cleaning im still sticking to the good old hand cleaning method. So this means that I let the individual parts marinade in lighter fuel for a while before giving them a scrub and rinsing them of in Isopropanal alcohol. I was thinking about dipping my toes into the ultrasonic cleaning branch but im unsure what fluids to buy and what parts I cannot drop into the cleaner so I think ill stay with what works at the moment. Additionally im broke haha. Mainspring service Now as always I did not have a spare Mainspring at hand so I removed the spring by hand and checked it out: As you can see it is / was absolutely disgusting haha so I gave It a good rub down in lighter fluid and isopropanol and the paper used for that was absolutely nasty in the end, see for yourself: However, I did clean it nicely I think and lubricated the spring with Moebius 8200 and the barrel wit Moebius 8217 before winding the spring back in carefully. After closing the barrel I did a mainspring wind test with the winding wheel and it had tension on it so it seems like I did a decent enough job. Lubrication Moebius 9010 – All jewels aside from the pallet fork jewel pivots Moebius HP 1300 – For parts which turn a bit slower. Between the arbour and the watches wheel, the barrel pivot in the main bridge or the metal pivots for translation wheels for example. But that’s just my personal tase Moebius 8200 – Used to lubricate the mainspring Moebius 8217 – Braking grease for automatic barrel wall Moebius 9415 – For the tip of the pallet fork jewels. Molycote DX Paste – Any strong friction contact points. So the setting and winding system basically Reassembly For the reassembly of course you just follow the above given steps and pictures from the disassembly backwards. Ive been thinking about making reassembly pictures as well, it would make the report way more comprehensive and would show more difficult nifty parts for example shock and balance jewel lubrication. However it would be way more annoying to take the pictures and it would cost me a lot more time. What do you all think? Timegrapher Test Okey, so once I’ve cleaned everything it was time to put my work to the test and I strapped the watch into the timegrapher. And this is the catastrophic result: This was the start of the snowstorm like reading which followed. It couldn’t really pick anything up and I was just devastated. Because I did not have any replacement balance on hand, I was desperate and opted to measuring the Rate my eye and stop watch. As you can think, this did not end up well so I ordered a lot of a few spare movement to butcher them for the balance. After placing in the 4th replacement balance however, I managed to get a decent reading. The Amplitide could be better, but this is the way I left it in the end haha. Final Results: After the timegrapher drama I closed the back up and attached a basic rubber strap for testing purposes. And from here on its basically B-Roll pictures! Here is a comparison of the movements size to my pinkie finger! And here the final satisfying shot: So yeah all in all a stressful but also fun little project which I could conclude by gifting the watch to my mother. I was very surprised to see the winged balance as well as challenged by working on a movement of this size but in the end I managed! I hope you all enjoyed reading this and that the guide may help other hobbysts or even professionals ( haha who am I kidding) in the future. Any comments, questions or criticism is of course welcome! If you guys would like the full commentated 4K Macro video of the whole process, ive uploaded it to my Youtube channel here and it would bring me great joy if you would watch it! And so as always watch bangers... Stay safe and healthy and till next time!
  7. Hey everyone I’m working on an nh36 and when I go to put the time at 12:00 (for the day/date to automatically change) the date wheel gets pushed to the right a bit, then it switches the date and goes back to normal. It’s not a huge problem but it kind of bugs me seeing a gap in between the two wheels at certain hours of the day. Anyone know a fix? Thanks!as you can see there is space in between the two wheels on the side the crown is on
  8. Seiko 7009 Report Hi dear Watchbangers, and welcome back to another little report from me! This week I am keeping in my set deadline and delivering my next project on time haha (not like last week).I know there probably have been a million reports, reviews and video on this but hey, it’s a classic; so this weeks watch is: A Seiko 7009 with a fully lumed up dial! I was super lucky to have found this, since at the time of purchase, I only found the pattern and colour scheme interesting and suddenly, this dial is just glowing up during night! So yeah, as always here’s a link to the commented 4K YouTube video for the lazy readers out there: Lets get into the written report then: Arrival status So this is how the watch arrived after I ordered it on Speedtimerkollektion and it seemed in pretty decent shape. The case was still in a nice condition, the original signed Seiko strap as well and the glass only had a minor little chuff so no need for replacement there. Interestingly enough the watch did not move a second for the first few weeks of me having it but started working again once I was filming for the above-mentioned video. Disassembly 1. Remove the caseback. 2. Remove the Stem by pulling into second position and pressing on the revealed lever to release it. Then remove the case. 3. . Remove the watch hands. They seemed In very good condition with me so no repolishing or reluming. Yay! 4. . Remove the Dial by turning the lever knobs at the dial feet, on the back side, releasing them in the process. The dial texture looks super organic and it makes sense since it is fully lumed! I used a little new makeshift dial container here for the first time to store the dial! 5. Take of the Dial spacer ring. 6. Remove the Front clip folding down the Day wheel by user something thin and sharp ( a cutter knife for example) and follow up by removing the day wheel. This day wheel was in English/ Arabic, which I found really awesome, and it also looks great so Ill be keeping that! 7. Unscrew the day wheel spring. 8. Unscrew the front cover plate and take that off. 9. Remove the top part of the 24 hour wheel by unscrewing the screw holding it all together. 10. Take away the rest of the 24 Hour wheel, the hour wheel, the cannon pinion underneath and the date spring. 11. Then remove the day quick set lever and its spring and the translation wheel from the setting system. 12. Move on to the setting system cover, the yoke and the clutch lever. 13. Remove the cluth and optionally the stem (if its inserted). 14. Lastly unscrew and remove the large metal arch which goes around the movement and hooks against small metal pole. With that, you have completed the disassembly of the front! Turn the movement in the holder so we can work on the back. 15. Remove the rotor and the balance wheel so that no further harm could possibly happen to it. 17. Remove the Pallet fork bridge and the pallet fork (this is ideally in an unwinded state, if there is power, please unwind the mainspring first). 18. Now you can unscrew the winding wheel and the ratchet wheel for the mainspring. 19. Unscrew the main bridge and remove it to reveal the gear train! 20. Remove the small clips holding in the automatic winding mechanism to completely disassemble the main bridge. 21. Remove the Mainspring and its ratchet spring and the complete gear train. 22. Unscrew the secondary small bridge. 23. Remove the final wheel underneath it to fully disassemble the complete watch! Congratulation!! Cleaning Cleaning as always is the hand cleaning method. Let the parts marinate in some naphta and then brush them if necessary. After this treatment I rince the parts of with Isopropanol alcohol to get rid of the previous cleaning fluids and left-over residue. I did however do some searching for vintage cleaners and what not but they really are expensive, around 200 Euros. And while that is a worth while investment, im not really sure if I want to and even can spent that money on something that ill only be using a few times a month at most. Well it’s a dilemma haha. But im also thinking about putting jars with cleaning fluids into ultra-sonic cleaners but I’m not sure if the jar walls are too thick for the ultrasonic waves to be effective. Mainspring Service As usual, I did not have a replacement Mainspring so it came down to servicing the mainspring. Upon opening the barrel, the spring seemed in decent condition, maybe a bit dirty but no visible physical defects. The barrel lid however did show signs of wear, so that place would get some well needed lubrication. Here is is unwinded and the back in its serviced barrel before closing it up. Lubrication Moebius 9010 : All jewels except for the pallet fork jewels Moebius 8200 : Mainspring lubrication Moebius 8217 : Breaking grease for mainspring barrel wall lubrication Moebius HP-1300 : Lubrication for slower turning/moving parts. On the barrel arbour for example. Moebius 9415 : Lubrication for pallet fork jewel teeth Molykote DX: Grease for heavy contact points. Mostly for the front in the setting and winding system for example. Reassembly Just reverse the disassembly Process above. Don’t forget to lubricate the balance and shock jewels and reassemble the main bridge correctly. Timegrapher Test So after cleaning and lubrication, I slapped the watch onto the timegreapher to see if the whole process did anything at all. Here it is preregulated: And post regulation within acceptable parameters. Im very happy about the Amplitude since this amplitude was the highest I have ever gotten in all of my projects! Final Results Concluding Fotoshoot strapped and lumed up again: Conclusion: All in all, restoring this old Seiko 7009 was really fun! Despite me not having the spare and clean replacement parts to replace all parts with visible damages and wear, I still managed to get the watch running in good condition again. Also the very unique and rare dial adds to that and Im happy that the light brushing with th Q-Tip did not damage the Lume on the Dial. Sadly, since the dial is a bit older (70s I would say), the fully charged lume on the dial does not hold its glow for very long and I have no possibility to relume the dial. Either way, Im happy if it even shines a little and yeah! Was a cool little project to work on! So if you guys have any comments, questions, criticism or suggestions/tipps, please write me or put them in the comments! I hope you guys enjoyed reading or the video and stay healthy! Till next time Watch bangers!
  9. Hello all. Can anyone inform me if the crystal on this model is a simple press fit, or if it needs adhesive, or other fixing method (e.g gasket or tension ring. just need to know what I might need to order in advance. (The photo is of an undamaged version. Mine has shattered.) Thanks in advance.
  10. Hi WRT, I'm totally new to the world of watches. I've had this Seiko SRZ392P1 for a couple of years. I recently took it to a watch repairer to get a battery change and it seems he has lost a part and managed to scratch the backcase in the process. At the moment the crown won't lock in place/wind, soooo, I'm curious to learn how to replace it myself. How would I identify the necessary/missing part?
  11. I picked up a badly scratched and very dirty Seiko quartz chronograph (7T94 0BS0) on Ebay for next to nothing. Idea was to practice stripping down a watch with pushers, to try a few case renovation techniques and have a general fiddle. A had a little bit of an issue with the fact the previous owner had made a dog's dinner of the battery bay (that was attended to). Mucking about - I decided to give it face-lift. A sort of a nod to speedmaster mkii...or not... Anyway....I'm pleased with it... and will wear it... leather strap? James.
  12. I am looking for a case ring for a Seiko 5, 6119-8440 case. The case reads o51772 Japan F. Can anyone help? Thank you
  13. I have a Seiko watch that I purchased long time ago. It is a two handed dress watch. Recently, I took the watch to the shop to replace battery. But I was told that the quartz movement is no longer working. I have seen replacement quartz movements on Amazon. How can I find a matching quartz movement? Shall I just measure the diameter and thickness of the quartz movement?
  14. Hi what nummer has the crown of the 8273, need s replacement
  15. Hello all, I required a movement to fit in a very small space and opted for the Hattori VX01. I am embarrassed to admit that I unsure how to keep the battery (379) in place. The metal arms either side don't look to me as if they are supposed to be levered up onto the battery, especially as one has the end angled down towards the movement. If anyone has worked with the VX01 or a similar movement I would very much appreciate the benefit of your knowledge.
  16. Hi All Any ideas how I can improve the look of this calendar ring? The staining seems to have got underneath the lacquer. I've not tried anything yet as I'm a little hesitant at using any liquid on it for fear of damaging the lacquer further. i'm still learning... Many thanks
  17. Hi I've tried to service a tiny Seiko 2601 Automatic movement very small for me (18 mm) So I finished yesterday all was ok I've rewinded and I was happy because the balance started I've not checked amplitude or precision (for me just ticking it's already something) Today I check and the watch have stopped and do not restart even when I rewind manually. Now when I put the main spring back in the barrel I've broken the end part at the opposite side of the pinion it was like a V because I don't have a main spring rewinder so I make it manually (Shame on me). So I suspect that the main spring is not clamped in the barrel and it's just spinning inside without giving any power to the movement. The question is what method can I use to check my assumption. Not forget It's an automatic movement. Thanks
  18. Good day all, I'm a recent 30 year retiree and elected to start cleaning some of my older watches that ended up in a box wrapped in a towel. One in particular, a gift from my grandfather, began working with a new battery but the crystal appears foggy. I would appreciate specific instructions for removing the stem/ crown and cleaning the crystal from an 1980 Seiko with the 6030A movement. Thank you in advance. Regards, Rick
  19. I recently purchased what I call a “Franken-watch” Seiko from a seller on eBay from India. As I’m sure many of you know by now there are hundreds of listings (see screenshot below) for cheap Seiko watches with weird dials, most likely repainted. They aren’t fully “fake” as most of them come with genuine Seiko movements. My Retro Watches has a good video where he looks at a watch he bought from a dealer similar to this if you’re curious, see link below. https://youtu.be/G_m4b3OBEMI Anyways I thought one of these cheap weird watches would be a fun one to play around with as my first project, and I paid $20CAD for mine which I thought to be good especially if the movement inside was genuine Seiko. First problem I noticed was the bracelet (which was cheap and terrible) was held in by shoulder-less spring bars which would be fine if the lugs had holes but they do not so I had to saw the bracelet off so I could put another one on (see wreckage below). There’s more but I won’t bore you too much.. MY MAIN PROBLEM: The watch came with a Seiko 6349A (23J) movement which is a variation of the Seiko 6309 (17J) movement. The movement was held into the case only by the crown (see pictures below) and didn’t have a movement ring. As I understand this is bad because the movement isn’t securely held in the case by anything. I’ve tried to find one on eBay but I’ve had no luck, and I can’t find anywhere that has the ring size so I can’t try and find an aftermarket one. Does anyone know where I can get one of these movement holder rings? Is it even possible to get one off of CousinsUK or Esslinger or somewhere? Do any of you have one I could buy? I am very stuck and any help is greatly appreciated!
  20. Hi, Can someone please explain to me how on earth do i unwind this Seiko 5126A movement prior to reassembly? (Picture attached). No manual winding as far as I could find and the winding screw on top of the bridge is not counterturning automatically when I push back the click and basically nothing happens. I can unscrew it but this just releases the screw. I'll mention that I did experimented with this movement (it's my watch) and first time accidently removed the bridge with power still left. No visible harm was found and after reassembly (hopefully a proper one) everything seemed in order (except for the oiling and cleaning which I haven't yet performed and is due now). Thanks! Rafael
  21. Hello all. I recently purchased what I though was a Seiko 5 project watch. The case back says the movement is a Seiko 6309- 7200 movement. However when I removed the works (and disassembled) it was not a 6309, at least I don't think it is. FE 5612 is stamped on the movement plate and when I looked that up I found pictures of the exact movement on the Ranfft Watches site. So I guess I have two questions. First did Seiko use this movement on their watches and somebody perhaps changed case back, or did someone replace the Seiko works with the FE 5612. Second, does anyone know of a location to find a service manual for the FE 5612 movement? It does not seem to want to go back together nicely (do they ever?) and I am wondering if I have something misplaced as the only description I could find states: "Strange. Train and Hand Gear separately driven by barrel (cf. MSR T43)." I also need a stem and crown and don't have a part number. Thanks for any and all information.
  22. Hello guys, I want to show you my lately restoration project. This time it was a Seiko 7015-8000 with blue dial. Watch came to me in very poor condition. As you can see on photos the case was scratchty, crystal was totaly tarnished with deep scratches. Everywhere was dirt, gunk and mud...yuck. Movement was running and stopping with very low amplitude. After opened the caseback I wasn't suprised - it looked like as case - dirt and signs of wear. Rotor was loose and fall out the case. When I take off the crystall I saw dial which had faded Seiko logo, some scratches and hands which lost their lume. Next step was strip down the movement - everywhere dirt and dry old oil. Time to cleaning bath Look at this - it's my temporary balance wheel stand - I suspect that from temporary it will be permanent. It does job well. After cleaning it's time to assembly movement. Now it looks better - maybe not pristine but clean and shiny. New oil here and there and movement starts to run. Now it's time for bench testing before install it to the case. Meanwhile I took care of the case, dial and hands. Case got some polishing work - not to much cause I didn't want to loose the sharpness of edges. That is effect: Dial and hands got new lume - I am not perfect in this work but I still learn to do this. Additional the seconds hand was repainted to orange color. I didn't change the crystall but i just polished it with waterpaper and on the end polish paste. Effect suprissed me. Time for the pleasant work - putting this all pieces together into the watch. VID_20190927_195610.mp4
  23. Today I show off what is probably the most accurate Seiko NH35 in existence. Let's see what this brand spankin' new Invicta does on the timegrapher: Oof. Ya hate ta see it. I know these numbers aren't anything to cry over for an 80 dollar automatic, but considering how these days microbrands stick this movement in watches costing hundreds more, and Seiko themselves with the equivalent 4R in watches costing even more, it's just not great. The rate itself to me is a trivial matter as nudging on the regulator is a trivial task. But what speaks to the quality of a movement in my eyes is the consistency of that rate in different positions. With 12 seconds per day difference across positions, middling amplitude, and fluctuating rate while static, albeit slight, is all just a bit "meh" to me. Let's crack it open and see what we can do. . Hairspring seems to be pulling towards stud. Hairspring removed from balance and mounted on cock and we can see the full extent of the malformity. That collet is a good ways off from the jewel. Few hours of sweat later: Much better! Regulator now runs the full length of the terminal curve without disturbance and collet is centered on jewel. Let's check out what else I saw: Some places are absolutely flooded. While others just barely got any. A good thing I intervened. This thing needed to be redone top to bottom. Stripped apart, ready to get rid of the crappy factory lube job, and get a real, proper lube job. All put together, lubed, and few rounds of dynamic poising later: Massive boost in amplitude, runs on rails and a measly 1 second difference across all positions. Wasn't lying when I said "probably the most accurate Seiko NH35 in existence." See for yourself. Isn't it at the moment a bit of a waste that this souped up NH35 is being trapped inside its Invicta skin? What do you think?
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