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Hello everyone. I am servicing several models with the 613X caliber and have had some issues with the disassembly and reassembly of the Diashock system. My question is the following: are all Diashocks the same size? Can I take one from another caliber and use it here? It seems like an interesting option because there are aftermarket options at a much better price. I think I came across a page that indicates the compatibility of watch parts, but I can’t find it now. Do you know what I’m talking about? Thanks a lot!!!

Hello, I’m stuck with my 7S26 rotor screw, it just wont come loose and I dont want force it. I’ve heard that the usuall problem with these is that they tend to come loose on their own, but mine is stuck. Any suggestions on how to proceed?

Hi everyone I got this vintage Seiko stopwatch from an antique shop and I'm in the process to restore it. I'm struggling to remove the hands. I tried a few times with strong lifting levers, but stopped because it was at a point that something would break. The hands are very hard steel, blue colour. I was able to get to this point by disassembling the movement, but to put it back I will need to separate the hands from these other parts that I don't know the name (please see photo). Any tips on how to remove these hands. Any material or tool I can use? I would assume heating is not an option and will damage the dial. Many thanks

Hi, it's my first post here in watchrepairtalk. I'm trying to get a Seiko 4336 quartz working again and having trouble with the date setting mechanism. Although this is a quartz watch I believe the parts are similar to mechanical Seikos of the 70s era. I'm sorry I don't know the part names. I have the technical document for this movement but the part names are not clear on it. Anyway, when turning the crown counterclockwise the gear on the right doesn't engage the gear on the left (in blue circle), which should turn the day wheel. I can get the left gear to turn partially if I align it just so, but it won't even make a complete revolution. Shouldn't it turn continuously as I turn the crown? I can't work out if I have some sort of alignment problem or if the parts are worn, or something else. I thought maybe it would work properly when the day wheel was in place but no dice. I should add that I didn't ever take these parts off the watch when doing my clean and so on.

So I was disassembling the Seiko 6349 movement to clean it and oil it and noticed this jewel looks to be in bad shape. I haven't cleaned this bridge yet, but this jewel looks nasty. Could this just be oil residues? Or it's really scratched? By what?

Hello all, I am a novice at tinkering. I’ve built and modded a few seiko skx’s and have really enjoyed them. That being said, I’m stumped. After replacing the crystal with a flat sapphire one and regulating the time over the weekend, as it was about six minutes fast per day, I now have a stuck movement. I’ve tried reseating the crown a few times. Tighten the counterweight screw and still no change. I perform the drill shuffle and nothing unless I wrap it with a little force and all hands advance rapidly for a short time then stop. Any and all advice welcomed.

Hi, I am looking for some Seiko Diafix cap stones. Managed to play tiddlywinks with one. Seiko part number 011221

Hi there, first time for me to ask for help since I joined the forum. I’m working on a Seiko 6138-0040 for a friend. I’ve already done a few 6138B’s, so not completely new to me. This one is a bit different, with lots of gremlins. Sheared off dial feet screw, case back ring missing, movement glued in the case etc. On top of that, on of the eccentrics also sheared off when trying to adjust the hour recording wheel stop lever spring. On the parts list, there is only 1 mention of an eccentric, namely the 823.619. Unfortunately it is unclear if it is the one I need, or if it’s the eccentric for the hour hammer.. If it is the right one, I can order one from Cousins, if not I probabely have to source a main plate. Does anybody know which eccentric the 823.619 is? Thanks so much!

Hello all, I had recently opened up an old Seiko from 1997 I got to change the battery, well I opened it up put the battery in and nothing works still (yes it is the right size battery). The movement looks fried and I think I need to get a whole new movement for the thing. My question is, what type of Japanese quartz movement would work for this watch? Would the one I have a picture of work?

Hi, I recently got myself a Seiko Lord Matic 5606. As the time of writing this, it has not arrived yet. Anyway, I am wondering how to open the case for the Lord Matic since you can only access movement by opening through crystal. I am completely new to the world of watch repair, so I am just wondering what are the tools that are needed to open and close Lord Matic case in a scenario where for instance I want to regulate the watch myself? And also what are the techniques that are involved to do so? Is this something that is doable for beginner like me? Is the whole operation possible to do with a relatively simple set of tool or is it something I can only do unless I have a crystal press for instance?

I recently bought a Seiko 5 7009 which turned out to only run intermittently. After taking it apart and giving it a clean I went to reassemble but struggled to get the escape wheel and pinion to sit between the jewels. I think it looks like it might be slightly damaged at the top and was wondering if anyone agrees? It's part number 251012 and I've attached some images below. If it does need replacing does anyone have recommendations of where to find them in the UK, the only ones I can find seem to cost more than a donor non-running movement. Is it a part that is commonly broken or would people take the risk on a donor? Thanks, James

Christmas has come early, just received a brand new Timegrapher 1900 (cause I've been a good boy and have only used naughty words 99 times a day instead of the usual 200+). Have been looking for lift angles of various Seiko movements but the links to lists have dried up, any one out there have these?

Good day all, I'm looking for a user manual (not tech manual) for a Seiko 7009 the little ones that you usually get in the watch box, ideally in pdf format. I have looked but cannot find on line. I want to give these out with my refurbished 7009s as I repeatedly get calls (sometimes from the same person!) saying the watch won't wind up, or how come that the date change function works but not the day function - despite telling and showing them beforehand that, by design, these are automatic only watches and you push in the crown to change the day. I can find the booklets for the 7002 and 7S26, but not the 7009. The 7002 and 7S26 are close, but not close enough and will only add to the confusion.

Hi everyone, I have a Seiko SNL001 7L22-0AA0 I removed and replaced the stem and it stopped ticking when back in. what have I done?

Hi!! I recently got myself a Seiko Lord Marvel with the Caliber 5740C. Right after getting it, I took a timegrapher reading through Tg and manual calculation through Audacity. I measured the amplitude of it to be about 140 degree (assuming lift angle to be 53 degree.) I thought the low amplitude may have indicated the watch needs some servicing, so I took it to a watchmaker and had him looked into it and did an overhaul of it. (There were also some other problem with the watch like the minute hand being quite loose when adjusted the time.) Anyway, I got the watch back yesterday and did a measurement again. To my surprise the watch's amplitude is still 140 degrees. The watch itself seems to be in a good working condition. Should I be concerned with the low amplitude or is the lowish amplitude normal on an old high-beat watch such as the Lord Marvel? Could the lowish amplitude be indicating that the main spring is having some issues? Please help!

Greetings all, I have a question about a ladies Seiko I am working on (Cal. 11A), it has a horrible plastic stem seal that badly needs replaced. Does anyone know where I would get such a thing? Here is an image of the type of seal I am talking about: PS I know the picture is of a 1104A, this is from eBay and shows the seal better than the picture of my 11A I took, also the 11A, 1104A, 1120A, 1140A and 1144A share a lot of common parts

My buddy Ed wanted a black dial watch. Since we are not the sort that would be able to afford a thousands of dollars or tens of thousands of dollars watch. We thought to get some Musou paint and try to whack something out. I think it turned out pretty nice.

Hello All. I'm a fellow watch enthusiast from the North-East of England. I hope everyone is keeping well. I recently bought myself a cheap watch repair kit, dusted off the old watch storage box and started to giving my watches the attention they required, it's been going quite well so far but do need some guidance with the correct steps of putting the workings and the case back on for my Accurist GMT Grand Complication, hopefully I will do a separate post on this with pics. Anyway hope everyone is having a decent Friday night.

Hello everyone, I'm trying to restore my father's old Seiko 2260-5510 quartz. I'm not really skilled on Seiko and I'm not able to find any info on bezel and case-back gaskets (they are shaped). They really need to be substituted. Where can I find parts numbers? Are there any catalogue online? Are there any non-Seiko equivalents if original parts are not available? Thank you very very much in advance. Regards.

Hi all, If anybody could help me with pointing me to the right site where I could download a Technical repair guide for the Seiko quartz 6N52, I would very appreciate it. I need to find a stem for this type of watch, but unfortunatelly when I bought it on Cousins UK, as it stated under the description, it is for this type, it didn’t fit as it was to small and it didn’t do the job. All parts have their own number, which I think the only option is through looking at a Technical guide I suppose? Thank you!

So I picked up a mid-1970s Seiko 7006-8007 to learn about vintage Seiko movements. The movement is working but poorly (perfect for learning how to service), but the case is really worn. i know all of the bulovas I’ve worked on were either SS or 10k RGP over brass. Does anyone know what process Seiko used for their entry- and mid-level watch cases? I don’t want to put a lot of time in trying to clean up the case until I know what’s underneath the worn plating. thanks

Greetings all, I am restoring a Seiko Lord Matic (5206A) and have a question about the automatic works rotor. When I opened up the watch the rotor was very loose and (fortunately) this was due to it not being screwed on very tight and not a bearing problem and I removed it with a few turns using my fingers. However, the thought struck me that I'm unsure how to put it back on, what tool should I use as it is a chunky rectangle and not a slot type where I could use a screwdriver (see picture below - Note: this is a similar movement picture from google as the picture I took of my watch isn't as clear). I don't want to grip and try to tighten it with tweezers as I think the chances of slipping would be high and I probably couldn't apply enough torque this way before damaging my tweezers and/or slipping and scratching up the watch. Anyone have any ideas what tool I can use for this job? Maybe I could 3D print something if there is no easy answer out there?

I need some help finding a replacement strap fro a womans Seiko Watch - it has a single central lug and pinned from the outside in, this seems to be a relatively common setup for womans watches (see below), but I cannot find anywhere to start looking for a replacement (current strap is too short and missing/damaged links). Can anyone point me in the right direction (web link or correct search term) for a replacement strap that would work - not looking for an exact replacement, just one that would fit the watch. See dimensions below (also see annotated picture) The central/internal lug (part of watch case) measures about 3.11 mm The (outside) width of the bracelet where it touches the case os 10 mm The link width at the end is about 5.9mm Like I said not looking for a direct replacement, just something that would work. Thanks

I am fixing up a Seiko diver (6309-7290) and I'm looking to change out the gasket on the winding stem - I ordered part OK0240B0A which should be the correct replacement gasket, but it doesn't look right. Does anyone know where I can find the dimensions of the real part so I can check I received the correct one.I have searched all over the interweb but without any luck?

Seiko 5J22A Complete Service Hunting through my cupboards I found my old Seiko Kentic "Auto Relay" that I purchased sometime in the 90s, when this was the latest cutting edge Quartz Watch on the market offered by Seiko. It's been sitting for over a decade without use, and I decided to really push myself and, with the Lord's assistance, completely strip and service this watch. So I tracked down the Tech Specs, and if you are thinking of embarking on servicing the 5J22 YOU WILL NEED THEM!! :) So here they are: 5J22A.pdf I will be using the part names from this document for this walkthrough, so download and print it out for you own sanity. The parts in this movement are incredibly small, so much so that my camera had trouble focusing on them ... so part names will help you as much as the visuals aids for this service. Once again, I've had no one to guide me on this, so this is the way "I" stripped the movement down, the correct factory procedure may, and probably does, differ from my way ... so I give a warning here: CONTINUE AT YOUR OWN RISK. Disassembly Unscrew the back cover and store the rubber gasket away safely. With a 2.0mm Screwdriver, pry the Location Ring out with the slots provided in the plastic ring. Remove the Oscillating Weight with a 1.20mm Screwdriver ... and this will be the driver you use on all further screws. To remove the Stem, you need to have the Stem push all the way home, to move the Yoke into the correct position so you can depress the lever (Location shown in picture after I removed the movement to make it easier to see the spot where you push) The movement should now come out of the case along with the internal Bezel Ring. Remove the Hands Remove the 7 screws for the Circuit Block Cover A, and the Rechargeable Battery Clamp (Sorry referred to an older pic to so you the location of screws) Remove the Insulator for Rechargeable Battery, and then the Battery itself. Remove Circuit Block Cover A Remove Circuit Block Cover D Reference picture of Circuit Block Cover D Remove Circuit Block Cover B Reference picture of Circuit Block Cover B Remove Oscillating Weight Bridge Reference picture of Oscillating Weight Bridge Remove Circuit Block Cover C Reference picture of Circuit Block Cover C Remove Circuit Block NOTE: The pin with the yellow arrow pointing to it holds onto the Circuit Block very firmly. Be CAREFULLY and GENTLE, as the Circuit Block can be easily damaged. This is the angle of attack that I recommend. Coming in on an angle just in front of the Crystal Unit, and gently push upwards ... and I mean GENTLY. Patience wins the day! Remove the Intermediate Wheel for the Generating Rotor Remove the Generating Coil Block (grasp with tweezers where indicated with yellow arrow) Remove the Second Coil Block (grasp with tweezers where indicated with yellow arrow) Remove the Hour and Minute Coil Block (grasp with tweezers where indicated with yellow arrow) Remove the Train Wheel Bridge Remove the Second Wheel and Pinion, the Third and Fourth Wheel Remove the Intermediate Second Wheel TIP: Next is this first of three sets of Stators and Rotors that make up this Quartz Movement. Be sure to place all the Stators and Rotors into a piece of Rodico for safe keeping. As shown below: THESE PARTS ARE MAGNETIC AND WILL ATTRACT PARTICLES, SO DO NOT PUT INTO THE BASKET FOR CLEANING Remove the Second Stator and Second Rotor Remove the Minute Wheel and Pinion, Intermediate Minute Wheel, and Setting Wheel Remove the Center Wheel and Pinion Remove the Generating Stator and Generating Rotor Remove the Setting Lever Spring Remove the Yoke and Setting Lever Note: Release tension on the Yoke Spring FIRST Remove the Clutch Wheel and the First Intermediate Wheel for Calendar Corrector Remove the Hour and Minute Stator and Hour and Minute Rotor This side of the Main Plate is now finished ... time to flip it over and start on the Calendar Works Remove the two screws indicated and remove the Hour Wheel Guard Spring, and the Date Dial Guard Remove the Intermediate Date Driving Wheel Remove the Intermediate Hour Wheel, and Hour Wheel Remove the Date Dial Remove the Day-Date Corrector Wheel, Second Intermediate Wheel for Calendar Corrector, Date Driving Wheel and Spring Note the position of tension of the Date Driving Wheel Spring (bottom of page 9 in the Tech Specs) Remove the Circuit Block Spacer ... and the disassembly is complete! I started work on this rather late at night and took my time and studied each part before removing, making sure to document everything carefully. So I'll clean the parts and begin reassembly fresh tomorrow. I can see this one is really going to push my abilities, and I'm looking forward to tackling it and uploading the reassembly steps.