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Found 7 results

  1. I recently bought a Seiko 5 7009 which turned out to only run intermittently. After taking it apart and giving it a clean I went to reassemble but struggled to get the escape wheel and pinion to sit between the jewels. I think it looks like it might be slightly damaged at the top and was wondering if anyone agrees? It's part number 251012 and I've attached some images below. If it does need replacing does anyone have recommendations of where to find them in the UK, the only ones I can find seem to cost more than a donor non-running movement. Is it a part that is commonly broken or would people take the risk on a donor? Thanks, James
  2. I’m servicing my first Raketa calibre 2609.HA. A simple movement without complications other than hours, minutes, and seconds. It belongs in a Raketa Big Zero. Years ago, I was recommended to start learning servicing by using this movement as “it is so easy to service” but I never got around to it and I’m glad I didn’t because it has two tiny springs that hold the cap jewels in place for the escape wheel. Here’s one of those springs on the main plate. It somewhat resembles Diafix springs but they’re not. And here’s the spring again, cracked after having tried to remove it using my Bergeon 7025-6 hairspring tweezers. Bergeon 7025-6 hairspring tweezers. So, I wonder if anyone of you has any experience with these tiny springs, approx. 1.1mm in diameter, and have any suggestions about how to safely remove them and replace them? Either way, all ideas are welcome! I have ordered a couple of donor movements on eBay from Ukraine, but I guess it will take a month or so to get them. That is of course unless they are blown up on the way. So, to make sure I’ve also ordered a donor movement from the Netherlands which should hopefully be here soon. These movements are super cheap, so lots of room for making mistakes.
  3. Hi Everyone! I have been practicing watch servicing these past months. So far I have successfully serviced a ST36 (ETA6497 clone), thanks to Mark's watch repair course which is awesome! I have also tried to service a NH25A, and messed up the hairpsring (replacement on the way), and a Miyota 8215. Everything was going well with the 8215 until I reassembled the train bridge and noticed that the escape wheel wobbles when I turn the wheels. My guess is that I accidentally broke off the upper pivot during cleaning. I was looking for a replacement escape wheel and found it at Cousin's, but they are out of stock. Anyone know any other place I could get one? Thanks. PS: Trying to keep a positive attitude after messing up two movements, but practice makes perfect. :)
  4. Hi all. I'm absolutely brand new to the world of mechanical watches, but have always been fascinated by the way they functioned. So, I took my first step into them, getting myself a cheap, crappy ebay mechanical watch with a chinese movement. I knew that by all accounts this would be a rubbish movement and mechanism, however I wanted something that I could take a look at without risking any sort of investment, gauge my interest in the hobby etc. However, after receiving it, one of my friends let me know that he had a near identical cheap watch that was broken, and offered me to have a look at it as practice. I agreed, and have spent the last few days doing research and taking it apart, before putting it back together again. I've managed to learn quite a lot from it, however I've found that when putting it back together again, the pole of the escape wheel that keeps it in place either end seems to be too short, as though something had broken off. This means the wheel is sat basically loose and wont reach the crystals at either side to keep it in place while it spins. I see no way to fix this, so i intended to get a new wheel to replace it with, however I can't find the name of this type of movement anywhere. It is the kind used in this: ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/Jechin-Skeleton-Hand-Wind-Leather-Mechanical/dp/B00VPRZC50/ref=asc_df_B00VPRZC50/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=290896788181&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13027367026987882679&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9047006&hvtargid=aud-545868369748:pla-468442151749&psc=1 ) . If I really wanted to I think I could just order one of the other watches that I've found that use this movement for £5-6, however I was hoping I might be able to keep to my strict student budget and get just the escape wheel somewhere. Does anyone know where I'd be able to find something like that? p.s. Apologies for the lack of knowledge on the subject, I know I'll come across a bit new to the whole thing, but trying to learn as I go
  5. I recently purchased a sellita sw-200-1 movement and it was working fine. When I wanted to recase it the stem went loose and I had to reassemble the keyless work to get it to work properly. I then realized that the movement stopped working. Upon further inspection I found out that the escape wheel isn't engaged with the second wheel. The escape wheel is also very loose on the top part close to the bridge. Do I have to replace my escape wheel and what seems to be the problem? Is there a pin at the top which was sheared off? Thanks. VID_20180304_231841.mp4
  6. I successfully managed to snap off the pinion on the escape wheel of the Favre Leuba Cal 253 movement I’m working on. I thought the pinion was in the jewel hole on the wheel bridge but it wasn’t and when I screwed down the bridge and bent/snapped the pinion off. Before I tightened the bridge mounting screws I looked to see if the pinions from the 3 wheels were visible in the jewel holes (used a 45x loop). I guess I didn’t see the escape wheel pinion—maybe the light reflected and it looked as if it were in the jewel hole. My questions is in pushing the escape wheel down when I broke the pinion could I have moved the plate jewel lower into the plate? The reason I ask is that when I take the wheel bridge off the lower gear on the escape wheel is too low to engage the center wheel. Without these two gears meshing there is no power transmitted from the main springs to the escape wheel. I made a “not-to-scale” drawing to illustrate the problem. Could the plate jewel be too far into it’s hole thus lowering the height of the escape wheel?
  7. Hi All! Through the post this morning came my latest acquisition - a Nivada Compensamatic with AS1950/51 movement. It's an attractive watch in lovely cosmetic condition and was, as usual, had for pocket money. It was described as running erratically. After letting down the mainspring, which had been wound tight, I got the balance wheel oscillating with my rubber air puffer and peered into the works. The balance was fine and the hairspring free and undistorted but the balance would only go with air assistance so I decided to remove it and have a closer look. I removed the balance bridge screw and almost immediately the watch started running but I noticed that, depending on what attitude the watch was held in, the escape wheel was engaging intermittently. At the moment it's sitting on a pad face up and ticking away quite happily but turning it face down and angling it allows the escape wheel to miss the pallet altogether. As a shiny newbie I'm having to guess what might be wrong but could it be that an escape wheel pivot has broken?
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