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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/26/19 in all areas

  1. 3 points
  2. Well I had some time on my hands and I managed to make “something” that resembles a crystal. I had a flat glass crystal lying about so with nothing to lose I began messing about. I lay the case on top of the glass and scribed the shape with a scalpel. After that I just kept following the marks with the blade. I was surprised when it eventually broke away along the line. After a good bit of shaping and smoothing with some 320 grit and then finer stuff it fit the hole reasonably well. It would have been perfect but one edge splintered slightly and I can see the chip like marks. I bonded it in with some Hypo cement in case it’s not permanent. The case is a bit bashed up anyway so it’s not like it’s mint condition. And like a fool I tried to polish the case a bit and rubbed right through the chrome in a couple of areas, I forgot it’s not a solid lump like a Seiko! Never mind it looks not too bad when wearing it.
    2 points
  3. Be careful so you don't slip and destroy the coil. Very easy to do. Put something over it before you move the arm.
    2 points
  4. My pic from the archives. Now discontinued, I have two more waiting for a new dad.
    2 points
  5. You already have one of the best tools: the dial itself! Frank
    2 points
  6. Personally I'm impressed by both the quality of the board software and its administration work. Put simply it's miles ahead any other discussion forums I've seen - assuming they go to the effort of maintaining a website, instead of sitting on the like of Facebook.
    2 points
  7. Maybe buy a 5126 to take parts from? Like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/Seiko-5126-7000-for-parts-restore-Serial-nr-7503402/113199419654?hash=item1a5b361106:g:SJYAAOSwUAJbcaVM&frcectupt=true Same wheel.
    1 point
  8. lol .. Yes I know that, just a fun fact they write stuff like this on a barrel... everything in the world is relative even the term life time
    1 point
  9. Cousins has them, their code is SEI29690.
    1 point
  10. I think I got it now TexasDon, Tks.
    1 point
  11. You accomplish it by selecting the + Quote command. It will copy their comments like yours above, then you can reply. As it's an open forum, everyone will see your reply. It's designed this way so that all of us gain knowledge from the exchange.
    1 point
  12. ronda 515... as mentioned loosen that screw. Be careful when inserting new battery, bottom contact is easily damaged.
    1 point
  13. Hi Brandon Just loosen the screw and as mentioned by rogart cover the coil and move the clip with a needle and the battery will pop up
    1 point
  14. Hairspring, mainspring, click spring. Which part number are you searching for?
    1 point
  15. It works but not on all subhands. I use a generic lever from Cousisnuk . Need to file them to shape though.
    1 point
  16. Just loosen the screw at the right end of the coil, its slotted below the screw, put a pin the small hole to move it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  17. Good ol' George Clarkson in Berlin and his great work on those Seiko Chronos... Jus' like good ol' Longbike [Louis] of Hawaii on the Citizen Aquzlanda and Eco-drives.. both Great Guys.....
    1 point
  18. Hi Mark, I know the issue is local, the phone company did modestly say so, they then recommended VPN, which worked. The error should have told me my ISP is weak, instead said ,the site is not within reach, I even once got an error saying, still negotiating with the site. I am a relic of card punching era. Regards joe
    1 point
  19. the screws support the pinions when pressing hands on. the hand being off could have just been you not pressing on perfectly. as far as clone 7750 goes they really arent top notch when compared to the eta, the chinese have no quality control and the chrono arms always have more play in them compared to the eta because of the way they are riveted together, make sure there is no play in the rivets. but the spring is 100% your issue it may be popping out when hit the start button look at the pic i attached the spring should but up against the pinion arm. that spring pushes the arm and allows the pinion to make contact with the center wheel which makes the chrono run when you hit the start button, then pull back when stopping chrono. also i have to ask is the rolex real? if so go spend $400 and get an official valjoux 7750. you will thank me later
    1 point
  20. Hi sean, Ok, A data sheet on this calib, helps . NWCCA is likely to provide us with info,s. Help is almost on personal basis at watchrepairtalk. I got my tools and am ready . Regards
    1 point
  21. I hope you have worked on watches enough. This is a rare, collectible and valuable watch. These aren,t your first set of tools, are they? I am not runing away, just hate to help ruin your watch. Regards joe
    1 point
  22. That spring hooks around the eccentric screw next to it. It keeps the rocking pinion in contact with the chronograph runner when the chrono is engaged.
    1 point
  23. One thing I would like to add. Proprietary cleaning products rarely tell you exactly what they contain, unless that is a legal requirement in the jurisdiction that they are being sold in. However if you want to get a good idea of what is in them, in order to try something similar yourself, head for the hazmat sheet. In this case CLR => https://clrbrands.com/Jelmar/media/sds/CLR-SDS-6408176.pdf So for CLR, the main active ingredients are lactic acid, and a common anionic surficant called lauramine oxide.. So you might also like to try dish soap and vinegar (acetic acid), or hand wash and cola (phosphoric acid + occasionally citric acid), or vitamin C tablets in washing powder. All of which, may have similar results, but whatever you try, test with a small area at the edge of the dial, in case whatever you are using reacts with something in the dial. Another trick.. to remove tarnish on silver, try baking soda and aluminium foil (and optionally a little vinegar and salt). The technique is described in various forms, on the internet, but again, tread carefully, as the plating on watch dials is typically pretty thin, and the surface is easily damaged.
    1 point
  24. Unfortunately I can't assist with the chrono problem but those bits in the bottom of the holder are supports for when pressing hands, cannon pinion etc on, they can be adjusted. Having a closer look at your pics, the spring certainly doesn't look right, i'd get it under a loupe and look for somewhere it would seat.
    1 point
  25. Another microbrand watch, this time an Undone meca-quartz utilizing the SII VK63 movement. The beauty of these watches lie in their individuality and niche features. The VK63 utilizes a quartz movement with a stepping motor for motive force. As seen through the display back, this one is clearly battery powered. The sub second hand is gear driven but that's where any similarity to a quartz chronograph ends. The chronograph function is totally mechanical and pushing the start or stop buttons provides the wearer with a satisfying mechanical feel. The action is crisp and the return to zero is instantaneous. The blued steel hands nicely balance off the cream dial with black and red timing marks. The display back was a $30 upgrade that the original owner paid for. I'm unsure why as a quartz movement isn't a thing of beauty. At least, not in this case. With an oversize crown, the time is easy to set and with no date to keep up with, it's a clean, vintage look all around. I purchased it on another website where the owner had tired of it. I haven't had it off my wrist in several days other than to shower. It is light, to the point of not noticing it at all even though the case and pushers are 316L stainless steel. The strap is a vintage style gray suede with ecru linen stitching. The principals behind this watch are in Singapore and it was originally begun with a crowdfunding app. They make several watch models but this is the only one that caught my attention. Like many other microbrand watches, this brand is sold on the internet only. It's a keeper that I was able to pick up for less than half of the current street price.
    1 point
  26. "Runs when pressure is put on crown." Could be any of the following (and indeed something else entirely ) 1) Turning the crown on its axis as if winding, causes tension on the spring and the watch runs, releasing the crown causes loss of tension, due to broken or missing click spring. Possibly an easy fix. 2) Turning the crown puts pressure on the mechanism, but the main spring is broken, or perhaps just completely filthy, runs erratically for a couple of seconds. Possibly a less easy fix, maybe clean, possibly replace the main spring, but still fixable. 3) Inward pressure on the crown causes the crown to seat correctly, this would cause a hackable movement to start running, but dirt or a damaged seal might then cause the crown to pop back out. Easy fix. Clean stem, crown and keyless work. 4) Inward pressure on the crown causes the keyless work to sit correctly, but a misaligned or broken spring in the keyless work causes it to pop back out when the pressure is removed. Fix.. re-seat or replace the spring in the keyless work. Possibly easy, possibly not. 5) Inward pressure on the crown causes the watch to run, because it has the wrong stem fitted, or has a badly worn, bent or damaged stem, which is binding up the watch, the pressure releases whatever is trapped, allowing the watch to run. Fix.. replace the stem. In my experience any attempt to straighten it will result in it snapping, even if you heat it first. Take pictures of the stem before you attempt any repair. 6) The balance fork is damaged or missing, winding pressure on the stem causes the hands to fly round like a demented politician negotiating an alternative brexit. Fix, replace the balance fork. 7) Something else... In summary, there is a 99% chance it is fixable.
    1 point
  27. yes, I would first just try to freshen up the pivots with some lube. That includes the v-conic caps as well.
    1 point
  28. that is very true.... but I did finally get this one going again by swapping out the pallet fork.
    1 point
  29. There is no barrel supplied by Bergeon that fits the Seiko 7s26. If I remember correctly with the Bergeon set they are either too small or to large. I used a K&D winder that I usually use for the larger pocket watch barrels. Oldhippy is correct Seiko recommend a new barrel & mainspring. I have noticed Cousins have the mainspring as obsolete. However I have done a little research & the consensus is the mainspring size required is: 0.95 x 0.12 x 400 x 10.5. Which is ref: GR2378X Cousins have this in stock.
    1 point
  30. I know Seiko parts are not so easy to buy these days. Seiko back in the 70’s and 80’s advised, you should replace the barrel complete after (I think 5 or 7 years) you’re not supposed to take them apart. Its possible you will not find a winder that will fit.
    1 point
  31. Cheers mates... Today im wearing this very nice big Bullhead, Seiko 6138-0040 Speed-Timer. Made for the Japanese domestic market ... This I also totaly love...big, chunky, shiny.....
    1 point
  32. Just arrived. Seiko SARB065 "Cocktail Time" From Canada
    1 point
  33. Well it is finally here, never tell before it happens!!! Of course, it has to be a Tuna Can! Cheers, Bob
    1 point
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