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JerseyMo

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Everything posted by JerseyMo

  1. is you look at the notch just where the stem inserts into the movement you will find a hairpin clip. Use a fine tip tweezers and lift it up. BE VERY CAREFUL becuase they like to go flying when you set them free!
  2. Timex 1970 Electric Diver - Built with a combination old and NOS parts. old - Caseback, movement cover, bracelet, eleapsed time bezel ring NOS - Dial, hands, movement, stem\crown, crystal Althoguh the dial came with correct hands, the lume had cracked over time. So with a mixture of white glow in the dark hobby paint and some clear nail polish I replaced it. It does glow for a few seconds. The rest is the typical parts assembly so not much to talk ablout there. But, what to do with the strap or bracelet? I found this NOS black plastic bracelet in one of my parts bins and added the "Timex" clasp for a final touch. Brite was a supplier to Timex so the look and fit is great. Time keeping has been dead on for 4 days now. Going to be hard to let this one go. But than again I built it to sell so on to the next project.
  3. TImex maintains parts inventory for a few years or less as I recall. So your only chance is ebay.
  4. I did notice that when setting the time it seemed like something was slipping. As it turns out it was this little disk which I just repalced and all good now. Also chaged the dial and cased it up for final testing. How does it look?
  5. Today's bench time journey began with the exploration of a stash of non runners from what I have dubbed "The FS Collection". I found that the coil had come off the balance so I went to my parts bins. Knowing this is a model 85 I was at first a bit unsure because the repalcment part I found looked different. But, "FS" aka Fred Smythe was a quality control engineer at Timex so I just figured this was another one of his expermiental movments. So cut to the chase, I swapped in the NOS part popped in a battery and off it went. Still under bench test for now.
  6. I redraw my previous conlcusion that the movement is a #24. That is becaue the of the bright white that can be seen around the balance wheel area. That can only be the underside of a date ring. of the pic is of a #25. TIme to get back to the bench and stop posting.
  7. no, the question is why a #24? After all a #25 would look the same or would it? That is from the way the phot is taken?
  8. Ok, let see what you think of this - looks to be a second generation model 24 movement. So question is how did I determine that? Come on Timexicans, put your thinking caps on.....
  9. Just today I stopped by my firends watch shop to see what he had going on and he takes out this late 70's Rolex that looked liked it had been dropped out of a moving car and landed in water. Rusted, dinged up, dial trashed, hands all bent and the rotor rusted clean off the movement. I look at it and say "Ok cleaned up and working its maybe 2K on a flip. BUt its gloing to take so much effort to de-rust and source parts. In that time you can make so many other profitable repairs. He replies but this one is a challenge! and yes, he will repair a Timex too! Although the last few he has given to me to repair for him
  10. yes and even a broken Rolex has the time right twice a day. But, it will cost you more to fix than a Timex!
  11. Yes, I agree that vintage Timex are not typical. Why professionals shy away from repairing them in my opinion is for two main reasons. 1) parts - only option is to find NOS or a donor and even at that you won't find everything. 2) profit - repair cost will be more than the value of the watch. BUT.... if you look on eBay you will find many sellers claiming "Professionally Serviced" on vintage Timex and selling them for 2 - 3 hundred dollars. And to my shock they are actually selling. This was all started by the re-issue of the 1965 Marlin model.
  12. so what else do you need to know about it? BTW - the automatic models are alos known as Viscount.
  13. Excellent and welcome to the land of vintage Timex! Looks like a early 1970's Mercury in the picutre. Be sure to add some watch grease to tip of the stem. That will help with the winding and setting.
  14. So you don't own the watch? But, rather are looking to buy it?
  15. think I will use this phase next time my colleagues in our London office make a difficult request.
  16. I was helping id some parts numbers for another member.
  17. I've had sucess not removing the end cap and hair spring just as much as removing them. Just rember that you will have to remove the end cap when applying oil to the movment. I'd suggest you begin to use the Vintage Timex Watch Forum method. preliminary steps - a) check for broken mainsrping and or other such damage. b) does the stem pull out and push in? c) can you set the time and or day date? you get the idea right? THis is so you understand what you are taking on. Maybe just a clean and lube or a total breakdown and parts replacment. so here are the basics. 1) let the mainspring down if wound up. 2) soak in clear amonia for 15 minutes - aggitate the vessel now and then to help lossen any dirt or gunk. 3) rinse in cold water and air or blow dry 4) soak in lighter fuild for 15 miuntes - aggitate as in step 2 5) air or blow dry 6) remove end cap and dot with oil. 7) lube pivots 8) lube mainsrping 9) lube wingind and setting gears 10) damn I'm tired already! Does it work on all of them? Nope! and the reasons are many but mostly because the movement may have never been serviced past the factory. So it ran for years and years on dry metal to metal and now its just worn out.
  18. okay, what the heck is a dicky fit?
  19. nope, that is not a front loader. I've never seen a US Time and or Timex with a #21 that is a front loader. I'd say it was not until 1959 - 1960 when the 100 series with aluminum case came out that there was a fron loader in the line-up. to remove the movement from the one above you simply remove the rubber ring along with the metal ring.
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