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Davey57 last won the day on February 12 2016

Davey57 had the most liked content!

About Davey57

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  1. Erm, no. Thought I’d give it a miss He seems to be doing ok though.
  2. I came across this listing on the bay. I thought it was a refreshing change. I do hope it does not contravene any forum rules. Apologies if it does, please remove it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/small-job-lot-of-old-vintage-Swiss-British-USSR-watches-SPARES-OR-REPAIR/153516855117?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131231084308%26meid%3Dc1cc81af15b14489bd20d2228a01c322%26pid%3D100010%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D133082790277%26itm%3D153516855117&_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109
  3. That is genius Joe, I like that! Course, the next question is, will I be able to find a jewel like that with a big enough hole in or would I need a modified one?
  4. Ok will do. Thanks for the help
  5. Thanks, I’ll have another go. Need to have a break from it as it has become a bit obsessive trying to get to the bottom of it. Added to which I have managed to break off the top pivot of the seconds pinion, so annoying. Lucky I have the luxury of the spare. At the moment I am at this stage. I have polished up the arbor for the seconds hand in case it was a bit sticky in the tube. I have fitted the centre wheel, seconds arbor and the wheel that drives its pinion. With the bridge on it all spins freely. I have put the second hand back on and tried pushing it round with a thin bristle from a paintbrush. It all seemed well but a couple of times the second hand jumps ahead of the bristle slightly as if it had just released itself. It is assembled dry at the moment and I have not put in the shim as it is now looking more like it would hinder rather than help. Thanks for the links watchweasol. It’s not a 4205 by the way I only mentioned that as a few I have done previously had the same problem. Sorry, meant to add that it’s a Pallas movement but I’m not sure of the exact calibre.
  6. I’ve been looking at the shim while the watch is running. It does not touch the pinion at all it is just sitting beneath it. Annoyingly, I did not observe it’s position before I stripped it out, I did not know it would be there otherwise I would have done. The only way I can see it exerting any tension onto the pinion is if it was shaped like a dial washer and sprung up slightly. Should it be this shape? When it was out it was all a bit wrinkled so I flattened it out. I am wondering what I could use as a replacement, I don’t imagine I will find a dial washer that small. Where to oil and where not to oil then Joe? Thanks
  7. I posted a question a little while back regarding erratic seconds hand, see here Luckily I managed to find another watch with the exact same movement with a full set of hands and in working order. It arrived and was running, although very sluggish, but the main thing was that the seconds hand moved nice and smoothly so I had something to work with. The first thing I tried was putting the seconds hand on my movement, the jumping and slight hesitation remained. Next step was to begin transferring some parts onto my watch hoping to find the problem. As soon as I removed the bridge I thought, bingo! This must be why my watch is behaving like it does. Underneath the pinion that the seconds hand is mounted to there was a very thin shim, presumably to allow it to turn smoothly. Here’s a picture I fitted the shim along with the pinion, bridge back on and, still the same. I then swapped the next wheel in the train from the donor, still the same. At this point I assumed that the problem still lay further down the line somewhere in my watch, but just to confirm I put the parts already removed from my movement back into the donor watch. Logically, I thought that would confirm those parts were ok if the donor still ticked ok, it didn’t. Before I went any further I put all the original parts back into the previously nice running donor and now that one is behaving the same as mine. I have no idea what has happened. I am going back to square one. I have stripped mine back down again, brushed all of the wheels and pinions in case some debris is still lurking between the teeth and at the moment they are soaking in lighter fluid. I was watching the hand moving on the donor movement trying to see any clues as to what might be happening. When the hand stutters and sometimes completely stops the watch itself seems unaffected and continues running ok apparently. I was surprised to find that if I actually block the seconds hand, the balance continues to swing and the train can move a little before it stops. So if something is temporarily blocking the train somewhere it’s not enough to stop it, just enough to make the seconds hand jump. I was thinking maybe one of the wheels might have a tight spot or something, I don’t know really. I’m just going to clean it all up again thoroughly, build it up without the pallet or balance, fit the second hand and see how it moves in that state. It just seems odd that I have somehow managed to introduce the same problem onto the other movement. The only other time I have seen a second hand jump like this was on a Seiko 4205, but that is a recognised problem with them. They have a tension spring but it doesn’t always work and it’s something you have to put up with. I’d certainly appreciate any advice. Thanks.
  8. Eventually, after a few interruptions I am making some progress. It’s a bit of an ugly duckling but at least it’s going. Thanks to @HSL for donating a replacement movement. I swapped the balance wheel from mine onto the balance cock so it all matches up. It seemed ok but I have a feeling it is gaining time. I have not had it running for long so I’ll have to keep an eye on it. Not sure what to do with the hands, they are just bare metal finish apparently. I was wondering if I could “blue” them. I remember using some stuff years ago on an old air rifle barrel but I can’t remember what it was. I still need another crown, finding something to fit the 4mm tube doesn’t seem straightforward.
  9. Cheers, I’ll have a look. I’ve already bought a couple from Cousins plus a few sets of hands. When I have time I’m looking forward to making them into something. One thing though, the hands are a loose fit on the shaft of the movement. Is it normal to have to pinch them a little so that they hold?
  10. Many thanks for finding that
  11. Very good! I’m a cyclist and I once saw a clock made from an old chainset and thought it looked good. Something I might investigate
  12. I thought the same, got nothing to lose in having a go. I’ve done quite a few quartz anyway. You’re right though, the stepper is totally frustrating, sticking to everything. I have tried spinning it up with my quartz tester, it only ran for a short time and stopped. The movement has been in for over ten years now so I reckon it would be due some attention anyway. I’ve a couple of other things to finish up first, then I’ll have a go.
  13. This is my own watch that I have owned for about 30 years. It stoped a little while back so I replaced the battery. It seemed ok but, I noticed it had stopped again after a short while. I have since tried the battery and it is ok, I also tried it on my quartz tester and there is a pulse. Many years ago it had to have a new movement fitted, as I did not wear it much I hadn’t noticed it had stopped and the battery had leaked. Needless to say I received a rather hefty bill from the goldsmiths because they sent it back to Cartier for the work. Even after that, as I hadn’t began my interest in working on watches and would never dream of opening it up, I still took it to the goldsmiths whenever it needed a battery. I didn’t want a repeat of the new movement scenario! So all in all I have spent a lot of money on the watch over the years, I still love it and try to wear it when I can. My dilemma is, a new movement from Cousins is about £250 +vat. Do I trust myself enough to strip it down and clean it? Has anyone worked on these or similar? If it was something other than this watch I’d have no qualms about setting about it.
  14. The clock is open fronted and has no glass so no danger of fouling. It might be fun to have a spare one to play around with and make a clock of my own design. Interesting idea
  15. Sorry, look away now OldHippy. I know you dislike them A friend has asked if I can do anything with his wife’s kitchen clock that she loves dearly as it belonged to someone close. He says it was losing time although, it has been running perfectly with me for almost two weeks. Rather than give it back to find the problem returns I have been looking for a new movement. I have found one that is exactly the same here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Replacement-UTS-01248-Quartz-German-Euroshaft-Movement-Mechanism-13mm-Shaft-/183725493748?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10&var=691309729771. Cousins have a one that I reckon should do, I just wanted to check. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/hi-torque-uts The only difference I notice is the distance from the front of movement to centre of shaft tip. Mine is 13mm same as the more expensive one, Cousins is 11mm. Which should I go for please.
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