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HSL

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HSL last won the day on May 15

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About HSL

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    Super WRT Addict
  • Birthday 11/09/1969

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  • Gender
    Male
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    Sweden
  • Interests
    I love anything included in Horology.
    Other hobbies I have include Gardening, Genealogy, Genetics, Artificial Intelligence (AI),Electronics, Mechatronics, Robotics, General programming (C,C++,C#, F#, VB.Net, SQL and so on).
    In my profession I develope technology in the Nuclear area.

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  1. Looks like a interesting video, do you have the link to it saved? Have you looked if the part nr 4 isn't actually 2 pieces? The lower which is in contact with the winding pinion might have a upper removable part called a crown wheel core. I think it used to be called no 423 in other Patek movements. The core usually fitts on the upside the lower crown wheel. It has a bronze bushing fitted to it when the bridge goes into place. If you look closely at the lower picture you can see it most likely is a two piece part. Push in the middle of the wheel with some appropiate tool to see if it doesn't split appart.
  2. I thought the crown wheel 420 is on the top like this one.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/PATEK-PHILIPPE-CAL-215-CROWN-WHEEL-NEW-WATCH-MOVEMENT-PART-420-/123903845490 The other part is as the dude states the wheel going under the crown wheel.. Maybe take a shot of how yours look like would help a bit..
  3. The 215 is a quite common movement for a Patek Philippe, but as with all expensive watches the replacements are expensive too since they aren't mass produced. Here you got one at the bay selling the wheel you ask about, the rest of the parts are out there too. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Patek-Philippe-Geneva-Cal-215-part-1x-under-crown-wheel-420-diameter-3-4-mm/133217216347?hash=item1f045d675b:g:ywkAAOSw4bhcJQ0P
  4. I once made a compilation of the regulator and some theory of the hairspring position, maybe after reading it this matter might clear some question marks up for you. Watch Theory Escape-Regulator.pdf
  5. Okay then you have a rub in jewel and then @JohnR725 provided you with an excellent picture. The tools fpr the trade to be successful depends of the size of the pivot hole. I use an modified Red oiler or a super fine cap jewel oiler. For a good result on those ones you need to have a good pegwood to clean it out with first. My tools for the trade when not using an automatic oiler.
  6. Unfortunately I am out of this part for the PUW 60, but there are a couple of PUW movements using the same. Kronradring 422 (60) , PUW 60, PUW 61, PUW 61S, PUW 63, PUW 65 If you sometime in the feature would need another bearing I have Kronradring 422 (70) for PUW 70, PUW 73, PUW 80, PUW 260, PUW 261, PUW1260, PUW 1261, PUW 560, PUW 561, PUW 562, PUW 563T, PUW 564T, PUW 565T, PUW1560, PUW 1561, PUW 1562, PUW 1563T, PUW 1564T, PUW 561E, PUW 562E. PUW 1561E, PUW 1562E
  7. I think a picture of how the cap jewels are seated would help to answer your question, the closest "held in by claws" my imagination can spit out is the shockresist which is held in place by screws. I throw in a couple of pictures so you can see if it is the type you try to describe.
  8. Just took a look and PUW movements in general has a crown wheel with a small bearing. And by the looks of your ratchet screw I would say it is missing the small bearing and is upside down. I just pop a picture on a common PUW ratchet wheel here so you can see what it might look like.
  9. Back in business after some hectic weeks before my summer hollidays. Now I think the most parts I probably need has arrived and it is time to finish up this service. Well I probaly have parts for a dozen or two but better to be prepared one never know! So to save space on the server the whole procedure is attatched to the following PDF, just as anticipated the build wasn´t completly straight forward. Here is the PDF: PUW1560D_Assemble.pdf Now it is off to a new adventure, a pure discorama..The PUW 1561D.
  10. Don´t think there is any worries with this Certina.. A nice little watch.
  11. I think one can take a look at the previous posting of a Benrus like this, Rogart63 added an link showing the service of this movement...
  12. When I been working on these Landeron movements, once upon a time it was quite much, for me the most reveling part usually was the type of minute recording jumper. With a type like this my intuition would say it is used mostly on Landeron 48/248 movements or derivates there of. The number (4) hammer for the crhorno function is not a sure tell since it fitts on many of them and because of that parts from various time periods can be found in either of the movements. If one really want to know which movement this is, Landeron always marked them undeneath the balance cock/bridge, just lift it off and the mystery is revealed.(But where is the fun in that) If I choose to close my eyes and not take a look at the dial I personally would be more comfortable finding something like a Venus 175 or Venus 188 under the lid on a watch like this.
  13. The movement looks very much like an Landeron 248.. Interesting combo.
  14. What better friday night can you have than picking a totaly unfamiliar movement apart while sipping at a nice glas of Barollo wine. Today a new shipment of watches arrived and I got a "Nilax Digital Automatic" among the other treassures. Usually I just throw them into a concrete wall just to see what kind of the effect it does on a seventies watch, maybe a black hole will appear who knows, but tonigt my curiousity took over. Dark thoughts turned up in my mind like, what better combination can one find a Swedish watch with a German movement and probably assembled in Taiwan. So here comes some PDF:s as usuall from me describing my adventure. The first one shows the disassembly and can be found in the link below. PUW1560D Disassembly.pdf Just so you will be prepared, this is how it looked like at arrival... Enjoy and maybe I will post the Part II in anear feature..
  15. Well lets try to explain the function... There use to be three positions on the setting lever. 1. Winding 2. Date setting 3. Time setting In position 2 the setting lever pushes (the date corrector lever) the setting wheel onto the date corrector. The date corrector has three paddles that will turn the date ring in one direction. Due to it's design you cant switch the date backwards. In position 3 the setting wheel will engage the minute wheel . The minute wheel drives the Hour wheel. The hour wheel drives the intemediate date wheel, this is held in place by the date indicator guard . On the date indicator driving wheel there should be a smaller wheel which drives the date indicator driving wheel. the intermediate wheel must turn free in the guard . On the date indicator driving wheel there should be a spring loaded pin which allows for date shift in one direction (clockwise) but not in the other. Sometimes this springloaded pin is to worn or dirty so it will not grabb onto the date ring. The date jumper will ensure you get a snappy dateswitch and later on keep the ring in position. The dial is held in place by the date indicator guard and the minute work cock. These two must be exactly flat or the datering will not move. So in this picture the date indicator guard looks beaten up and as previously said the date jumper is out of position.
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