Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


HSL last won the day on January 8

HSL had the most liked content!


About HSL

  • Rank
    Super WRT Addict
  • Birthday 11/09/1969

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    I love anything included in Horology.
    Other hobbies I have include Gardening, Genealogy, Genetics, Artificial Intelligence (AI),Electronics, Mechatronics, Robotics, General programming (C,C++,C#, F#, VB.Net, SQL and so on).
    In my profession I develope technology in the Nuclear area.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I think the most common for these are 0.9mm which is Tap 9 if I'm not to confused..
  2. Roger you beat me to it.. SEALED BARREL COMPLETE DISC 07/26/96 RC. CaseCaliber AS 1852 EBR 268-123 FL 1164 ZOD 72D ZOD 78 ZOD 86 ZOD 86B ZOD 88
  3. The first thing i would do is to take the lever marked in this picture out from under the date ring.. And then we go from there.
  4. Unfortunately I think you managed to break it a bit more, one have to be very carefull, there still is a bit left to grab on. The end result should look little like this.. I saw i previously wrote welding gun, of course I mean soldering gun, sometimes I get other things mixed up while I make myself a Gin & Tonic..
  5. Your in luck, now it is time to grabb the pliers. Turn the crown gently back and forth to see if it gets loose, if not the stem is glued and you need to apply some heat onto the stem stump, I usually use a welding gun but i asume you dont have any so if you just quickly warm the stem with a lighter it may do the trick. Never try to force it too much. Since you got the stem out already I guess you figured that part by youself. One can be sure there is no bit left in the mevement since the stem is a "snubbnose".. So the risky part here is to get the stump out from the crown, otherwise you already done the hard part.. getting the stem out..
  6. It was almost the same as I thought, the stem for that is easy to get, since I live in Europe Cousine in UK is a great source, but there probably are places in the US to get it too, otherwise I probably have one at home. A tip is to buy atleast two if you never changed a stem before because it is a little bit tricky to cut it to the right lenght, almost everyone here probably cut one too short sometime. The next step will be to take a shot of the stem on the crown or if you could see inside of it, when the stems snapps there sometimes will be a short bit of the threads inside of it. If there still is a bit you could try to gently to remove it, otherwise you need to buy a new crown too.
  7. Interesting indeed! I also thought to start the spring with a scruffy patient, needless to say this also needs a new glass. Now it s just a waiting game until it arrives..
  8. If I would make a dearing guess that is an ETA 251.474, you can read the exact model of the movement under the most right coil.* Or as they suggest take a new picture...
  9. They look fair, who made it one probably can see when you strip it down , a while ago I posted a stripdown of a cylinder movement maby that can help you on the way..
  10. I think that is an cylinder escapement, it doesn't have any fork....
  11. Sounds like your on your way in the right direction, maybe some part is a little bit scew or you just need to lubricate it a bit. And you are right about the fully wound theory, an automatic watch has mainspring that will slipp a bit when fully wound, the mainspring is held in place by friction so you don't have to worry about the winding force. On a manual the spring is held in place by a notch in the barrel and because of that you cant wind it to far.
  12. Hi again, Yes the stem looks to be in a good shape. If the stem came just right out it might be because it wasn't fully inserted, sometimes one have to gently push the setting lever nobb with a screwdriver which fits in the slot at the same time you insert the stem. If you use a screwdriver with the propper width you donĀ“t risk to push the nobb all the way again and misalign the setting lever again, so don't use a too pointy thing. If the keyless is correctly assembled then the little nobb in the end of the setting lever should go straight into the slott at the back of your stem.
  13. The original bands on these 70's watches was mostly less attractive, I looked in my bin if I saved one but no luck. I attache a link to a similar watch for sale with a close resemblance to the original band. https://www.chrono24.com/tissot/gents-automatic-wristwatch--seastar-automatic--id12207238.htm
  • Create New...