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HSL last won the day on September 7

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About HSL

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    I love anything included in Horology.
    Other hobbies I have include Gardening, Genealogy, Genetics, Artificial Intelligence (AI),Electronics, Mechatronics, Robotics, General programming (C,C++,C#, F#, VB.Net, SQL and so on).
    In my profession I develope technology in the Nuclear area.

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  1. The chances to break it is greater since the "Claws" of the ordinary crystal lift will not spread the tension in the same way as if you used something that sqeezes over a bigger area. There are more universal tools out there but the price usually is higher but they are also better. On this site you can see two other usefull tools , the air pump (will mosty not work on crystals with tension ring) and the Crystal wrench. The crystal wrench is the tool of choise for these jobbs. http://thewatchspotblog.com/?p=2495
  2. I did only have the service sheet for the AS 5008. This technical documentation will be of great help when servicng a watch like this, I took a look at the usuall places like Cousines for documents and they only had some strange version of the tech sheet. This is not a watch for a beginner to start with but for future use and if someone else is interrested I upload the HSL edition of the sheets AS 5008 HSL EDITION.pdf
  3. Caravelle digital.. If you can open the back on the watch one can see what base movement it is. Usually there is a PUW 561D or a PUW 1561D under the hood. If you look at the bay you should find an abundance of stems and crowns for these calibers. I have previously made a small walkthrough with the 1561D, the 561D isn't much different.
  4. The two tools has the same function, the Tissot tool just sqeezes the crystal with three bacelite blocks.
  5. The tube on the PUW 500 where the crown wheel is fastened is so flimsy so probably there isn't any good fix for this problem more than replace the bridge. There is a similar one as yours on the bay for parts. (https://www.ebay.com/itm/PUW-500-watch-vintage-mechanical-movement-parts-or-repair/114410464379)
  6. Hello and welcome Dubey, I notice you made a shortcut right to this section. Usually one make a short introduction of one self in the "Introduce your self here" forum. Just so people get to know you and give you a warm welcome . But here you are, it is hard to say with the watch dangling like that. But this one I think has an La Jaux Perret 5900 movement pushing the watch hands, and that movement is based on the AS 5008. From the picture one can see the alarm hasn’t been wound since the click isn’t engaged on it. One can’t see the ratchet wheel for the main spring, it's behind the osc
  7. Well on this one we only can see the actuall brand mark JC, the reason one want to see the dial and back is the old books just goes by black and white pictures of them. Here you can see the brand for Cupillard from one of these books.
  8. And flipping around in the antient books shows the maker with a high probability is Cupillard.
  9. I would guess the 1194 is the serial number and the maker is JC. Early Cortebert had a stamp JC but not looking like that, maybe an 30's art deco.. One need to see the dial and back side to pinpoint the manufacturer.
  10. This is a very difficult question, but the “national watch” back in the days would have been a watch branded “Leijona”. The watch was originally an ebauche from Switzerland, now days it’s not. But that watch on the picture seems to be with the authentic look on wristband and everything but looks very German, like a Stowa Ancre or something like that just looking on the hands and dial.
  11. Yes all these 28X has a close likness since they are based on the same movement. Your movement is 16"' (Ligne) in size. To convert this to millimeters one has to divide the ligne meassurement with the magic number 0.44326241134752. So, 16 / 0.44326241134752 = 36.096 mm. So it should actually be a bit over 36mm when you meassure it. Then we have the UNI-COMPAX, COMPAX and TRI-COMPAX, here it is probably easier to see a picture of the differences on the dial side. Hope this helps.
  12. It's friday night over here and what is better than having an small party with wine, chips and a small check. Just because it is ticking it might not be ready to be adjusted. Since this question is freqently occuring in different shapes I will just make a small guide which can help you decide if you done the minimal checks. Maybe it will avoid this beeing an 50 + page post There are some initial checks one can do while servicing a watch after the repair, here I use a ETA 2824-2 as an example. First of all, I assume you cleaned the movement properly. After and before cleaning alw
  13. Uj! As you say something has happened here. The most probably will be OK by a gentle good cleaning. The minute jumper is intact so that is a bonus, a very brittle part which always is in demand. So when looking for parts one probably has to look for parts to its base caliber which probably are a Universal Geneve 285. The Zenith calibers in this series is quite easy to identify they are called like Caliber 136 = 13 ligne = Universal Geneve 383 (Base caliber 286) Caliber 146 = 14 ligne = Universal Geneve 385 (Base caliber 285) Caliber 156 = 15 ligne = Universal Geneve 387 (Ba
  14. I would think that actually is a Zenith (136)/Martel 16"' movement behind that dial. Not the movement one walk on every day, be very careful with that one. It is branded Zenith but you will find the Compax to be an Universal movement. Do you have the original case for it too, if yes this watch is a keeper for sure. Take a picture of the back too so the ones like me get a treat..... Be very very careful with it or you break my heart!
  15. Interesting reading, my rambling will not be long, as I think @margolisd is a bright man who has ambitions to learn and take his knowledge to the next level and therefore asks for advice from a diverse group like this. I don’t see any problems in people wanting to learn and experiment a bit maybe he could tweak it to an amplitude above the normal. I couldn’t agree more the most mass-produced watches leaves the factory with “good enough” specs standard Seiko’s is no exception, maybe more the norm, that is it keeps time within the given specifications and nothing more. It’s the same as with a
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