Leaderboard

BTDT, got the t-shirt. Getting old is hell, but better than the alternative. Get well fast! Best, RMD

Cripes the 'Edit' window on this forum is short! To add to my answer on what you need to do I should just make it clear because of your original query that, yes, you have no choice but to remove the circlip if you want to remove the stem! The 2572PC stem has an extra 'notch' in over the 2572 stem for this circlip to secure into and with it in place you cannot remove the stem: Once the circlip has been removed you can use the normal stem removal button to get your stem out!

The pinion you query is the date corrector (part #2544) for the date quickset ... and this has the clip to keep it in place. The shape of the clip means it is actually more commonly referred to as an E circlip as it looks like a rounded E: To remove the circlip you must rotate so the rounded part of it is facing down and you see the two ends facing up towards you. Now with a sturdy pair of tweezers place the tips on each of the circlip ends and push down; the clip will pop off. If you do not have a suitable pair of tweezers you will need to secure the movement whilst you use your hands to push with two small screwdrivers. You don't often see such circlips in watch movements but they are a common securing mechanism in engineering and I know they can be fiddly so just be steady and patient! Reassembly is the reverse where you put the rounded part up towards you and push down so the clips 'snap' back onto the relevant groove. A tool like a spring bar remover (i.e. the tool you remove the bars for a watchstrap with) can be useful here as the notch in the blade will resist slipping better than a screwdriver blade. Hope this helps!

I usually don't wear watches during weekends, but yesterday I thought I have to try out if one of my small friends was up to the task to kick of a Monday meeting with a bang. And of course one should not play around with your daughters dog since anything can happen, when getting back into the house I realized disaster had struck, somehow the winding knob had torn off. Well sh*t happens. So Instead a little brother standing beside the Zenith in the display cabinet got the chance. A Mondia Sea Scout, powered by a golden AS/ST 1800.

I would think you will have to anneal the old pivot.Although when searching on the net know-one seems to do this.

Good Luck with that Gout ro63rto , ..... Today I am sporting my Marathon GSAR ... I have a few different divers , but this one always feels like the real deal on the wrist ....

The "Turdor". An assembly of stuff used to build a watch. Had a spare 2824-2 sitting around and was bored. Why not? RMD

Thank you sir! Fell in love with it the moment i saw it, had to have it! The movement in this particular timepiece is the Lemania 872. Pretty well regarded i understand, i need to do a bit more research on the movement to be honest. Pic of movement and a better pic of the watch itself for your viewing pleasure The only thing missing from this watch - i WISH it had an exhibition case back! I am tempting to look at the logistic of having one made up.

Hi All I've an 11 jewel 1879 Waltham pocket watch with very old and pitted jewels, particularly 4th and escape wheel. They've caused a bit of uneven wear on the pivots so I'm getting wavey traces on the timegrapher. I've polished the pivots and this has improved the situation a fair bit, but would really like to replace the old jewels. Now, as they are held in chatons, is there any way of purchasing replacement jewels complete in the chatons? I had assumed since Waltham made bajillions of watches that spares for the jewels in chatons would be simple to find, but I'm buggered if I can! Am just I going to have to try and put replacement jewels in the existing chatons? I'm just a hobbyist, but am a bit of a perfectionist so would like to get the watch running as well as I can. She's a lovely heavy size 18. Next watch I'm on to is an accutron space view... A bit of a different beast! Cheers in advance guys.

Ah, cross post! You re-measured! Sounds more like it

Really? 0.01mm? Maybe inches?? I just grabbed a largish looking one out of the packet. The head diameter was 0.6mm and the pin length (minus the head) was 2.3mm. The packet really does have quite an assortment with different head and pin lengths and diameters. I would send you one if you knew exactly what you needed, but some of the heads are tapered and some straight, so if this sounds about right then you might find it best to get the assortment to choose the best fit

I have a selection of these pins from Cousins. If you let me know the major diameter and the length I can tell you if anything there will fit

If you go here enter in the serial and you should be able to obtain the parts you need. etwatchdatabase.com/guide/company/waltham/serial-number-lookup

Woah....chunky, but funky! J

a little off topic but here goes I went to machinist school, and I used to think that you blasted a drill bit through steel with high speed, in actuality old drill bits were hand cranked so HIGH SPEED could mean anything above that, now I use the slowest rate I can to drill, 50to 100 rpm, and I use a mixture of olive oil and dawn dish detergent in a little water, shake it up each time!! it work especially well on stainless steel, rate of feed is force, to the object, so if you feed hard or press hard you are heating the bit NOT allowing it to cut but wearing away the sharpened bit, I cant take a COBALT it and put it to stainless with no lube press to hard and it will sit there and spin, ADD the goo, spin slowly with lighter pressure and you will see curls of stainless coming off the bit.. cobalt its are much larger here in the USA, not for watchmaking, I have only found just steel bits, but the principal applies, I did 3 pivots on and old LaPhare Moonphase pocket watch I used 2 bits , the first one I have an involuntary jerk from time to time and that occurred breaking the first one, chucked up another one and hand pushed it against the staff so I could Feel the pressure , and it went in, and YES you may have to anneal if you know all this I apologize not trying to tell you what to do, just my experience

I would say something like this? https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/hairspring-collets-pins-wristwatch Haven't done it myself. But would be great to see. If you do it please post. I think Practical watch repair by Donald de Carle show it in the book.

Yes, it’s the part you are pressing on to remove the stem. It should have 2 pins on one side, one larger than the other. The larger pin is the stem release button. The smaller pin locates into the groove in the stem. There is a third small pin on the other side that engages with the large plate (setting lever spring) this gives you the 3 setting positions, winding, date set & hand set. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm wearing my beat up old Sicura Voyageur again today, so I wont bore you all with yet another picture of it. I've got a similar, more recent Seiko 5 which I picked up for next to nothing in non running condition. I'm a big fan of these older Seiko automatics, and while mine is in need of a new crystal (if you look closely you will see a circular crack round the outside), I think it looks pretty good, and runs well, following a little TLC. The strap still has a few battle scars on it, but I'm not aiming for perfection here. When I get back from my holidays, I'll order up a crystal for it.

I agree, you are very right to be extra careful with this, it is a jewel and should be handled with respect. I meant slight push away from the stem and simultaneous push on release botton. Penetrating oil on release botton won,t hurt( small amount) . barrel bridge removal approach beats uncertain approaches. I am not going back on my recommendation , Forums specializing on zenith.

LIt’s not just a matter of corrosion is it? I had a movement a few weeks ago where the stem was so badly corroded to the setting lever and yoke that it took several attempts over about 3 days of applying very small amounts of penetrating oil to that area finally release it. I’m not suggesting WD40 is an accepted way to free rusted components but it worked for me without damage.

Watchrepairtalk helps to make a repairer out of members, dose not specialize in nor affiliates with any particulare brand. If no solution gets set fourth here , I recommend trying forums specializing in zenith as well. Regards joe

That looks like new platform. So I'm guessing its one of these on this page, If I'm right you can buy a replacement part. It is a regulater index. Watch and Pocket watch pins will not be big enough. You could make one. https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/platforms

Hi, What happens if the C Clamp is pushed away from the stem? Or pushed down directly.

My watch collection isn't big, but here I go today with this Seiko 6119-8090 from 1969. (Photo from the fridge)

instead of a Cshaped washer, can't it be a kind of clamp, which will turn downwards when you press the release?

Can you confirm that this is the movement?

Look closely through the hole while moving the stem in and out. At one point, either on the second or third position, a lever with a little hole or dimple will appear.push gently on it while pulling on the stem and make sure you do not pull the mechanism to the third position while doing it. The lever is seldom visible when the stem is pushed in all the way. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

This has been my watch of today pretty much every day since i bought it a couple months back! 70s Tissot Navigator Chronograph:

Wehrmann Suisse.. a quite anonymous watch from the dial side but when you turn it around....... A missile launcher powered by a AS 1130, a backside like that must make even James Bond jealous. If anyone knows why one would have a case back designed like that feel free to share I have no idea,

Colorful , fun watch for a cloudy day....Seiko Bellmatic in great shape .........

Longines 6942, the little sister to the 6952 previously shown. Sometimes less is more and I must say in this case I actually prefer the Little sister.

Its really nice. I love the timeless design of the sub second Girard Perregaux. I have had a few and they're always on heavy rotation in my collection. Right now I just have one, and its powered by the venerable GP 03 caliber. I'm not wearing this today but I have a photo nonetheless!

I took my Heuer Monaco by Tag Heuer for a spin........

Today it's time for a vintage Girad-Perregaux from the 60's to see the light after months in the display. Seems a service is in the pipe too, but it still runs like a charm. This watch is powerd by a Girad Perregaux Caliber 26 humping around in 21600 A/h.

Here is my contribution to the “Watch of the Day”. My Citizen Quartz Calculator GN-4W-S 4-096673 TA (1978+-). I have seen it referred to as the Holy Grail of Citizens Calculator watches. I don’t know about that, but I do enjoy the watch. Something I stumbled onto while searching & purchasing Pulsar P2 watches. Sadly, the crystal was hit at the 4 o’clock position, but still fun to wear.

What can go wrong when airing a Timex after a long time. Here we see a Timex 4047-3167 with the bells and everything, enjoy.

Please do Richard, my very best wishes from Scotland.

Flatulence , properly applied.

There are several online courses you can join were the instructions is via video via YouTube the instruction I free in s kind of search for topic to learn from ie straighten a hair spring or the author instructor , Mark Lovik (I think that’s the name);runs his own sunscribed watch repair, cleaning and other horological knowledge. I think he’s s natural patient Teacher. Whatever it’s worth checking out and you seem enterprising maybe it’d be a good relaxed route back to the more formal learning once you’ve developed more skills and knowledge. Join forums read up online books make friend and continue to ask questions. It not that you failed to get in it’s just they only had enough room for people a bit more prepaired. Good luck eh!

Coffee.