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  1. Zodiac Crown Removal in Auto

    Yes, I believe it is the inset screw just below the stem in the photo, but be careful not to unscrew it any farther than necessary because it is simply screwed into a lever on the keywords side and will drop the lever if turned too far. Then you would have to reassemble the keyworks if that happened. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  2. What am I missing can’t open Wittnauer

    Some of those are just very hard to get a start on, without a good gap to get in to. I’ve used a single edge razor blade on a few. You could be required to tap the protected edge of the razor with a wood dowel as well. Then suddenly it will pop off. Afterward it will most certainly require a back press to press it back on. Not pretty or very professional, but without more expensive equipment and experience, necessary. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  3. Ronda (915) Battery Change

    There isn’t much information to go on here. Can you check all the batteries with a voltmeter or try them in a working movement? Also, I know it’s obvious, but you are pushing the crown back in afterward,right? Sorry, have to ask, anything is possible. Can you take a picture or two? I don’t find a 915 movement number on their movement manuals site. Steve Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  4. Particles on Rolex dial

    Doubtful. It appears to be centered at the 6 o’clock area. Could dust/debris have gotten in due to the seal not being good in that area? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  5. You almost got it. It is connected to the bar and creates a hinge so it won’t get lost. When you rotate the spring ccw to the gap, it will pop up, rotating on the bar. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  6. Now it does appear to be a two piece case. The top ring will have to be pried away from the bottom one. There could be a narrow notch on the ring between either of the lugs, that would be used to start it off. It would probably be press fit and the crystal would come away with the top ring. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  7. Hmmm. It should fall out through the back. How hard did you try? Sometimes the dial is a friction fit and requires a little fiddling, but don’t damage it or those pins that hold the movement in place. It really doesn’t look like it would come out from the front but it’s hard to tell from the photo. You could measure it from the back and the front to see if it is indeed larger than the back. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  8. Hmmm. We’ve all had that happen. The movement isn’t securely attached to the dial and when the movement moves outward at all, the dial pulls the hands off. You will have to remove the movement/dial once you get the stem out. Then you can reattach the hands. Look into that oblong hole to the right side of the stem in your photo. Watch inside it when you pull the stem in and out and you should see a tiny lever with a really tiny hole in it moving back and forth. There even may be an arrow on the movement pointing toward that hole. When you see the lever plainly and see the hole in it, put a toothpick tip or tiny screwdriver tip and apply a little pressure there. Then the stem should slip right out. That hole sometimes appears when the stem is pulled in the setting position, sometimes in the normal position. That’s why you have to pull the stem in and out to see when it appears. After you get everything out, you can fit the hands back in place, noting the proper position for their placement so they line up properly. Hour hand on an hour marker and minute hand at 12. Seconds should be at 12 when the minute hand is on a minute marker. At least you don’t have the added complication of a date. Good luck. Steve Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  9. One method is to grind a slot into it with a Dremel tool with a thin disk on it, then screw it out. Another method is to make an extension to it with epoxy and a metal pin or even a toothpick and when it hardens, use the pin to turn it out. Someone else can chime in with other ideas. Steve Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  10. Hmmm. Examine that hairspring with a magnifier closely. That’s the only part that sets the overall timing. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  11. It should use a 321 battery. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  12. BOSS

    Probably called a spudger in most cases.
  13. BOSS

    Probably. There are already scratches there. [emoji4] Sometimes I have to use a single edge razor blade with a metal backing to start some of those off. There is also a nifty little black tool on the bay that resembles a little crowbar that you can get from China and they work great as long as you keep the edge sharp. They provide the much needed leverage that a screwdriver tip just won’t give you and you don’t have to worry about a screwdriver blade being stuck in your hand or finger. Painful experience. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  14. Crown under pressure

    Look for them to simply be watches that aren’t running, usually from lack of service but any other reason is possible. Technically there is no such thing as overwound. What happens is a watch quits running and everyone who picks it up tries to wind it, and eventually it is wound as tight as it can be. Then later someone picks it up and thinks , oh, it’s overwound and that wasn’t the case. Make sense? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  15. timing

    Not exactly. All watches including pocket and wrist and desktop can be designed to tick at 3 4 or 5 beats per second. The faster ones can provide better possible accuracy but they have a higher amount of wear and tear, so its a trade off. There are no standards across brands or types per se. you just have to examine the specs for each movement number manufactured to find what rate they designed it for. You can’t change a movement from one rate to the other, either because the gear ratios would all have to be changed as well. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro