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WatchMaker

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WatchMaker last won the day on October 1

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  1. Check out 'Mystery Movement 1' at https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/movements.php. The layout and bridge shapes look the same!
  2. Since an ID on this movement seems elusive one other suggestion is to dismantle and see if there are clues anywhere else. I have worked on a very old movement before where a makers mark was on the underside of a bridge.
  3. Your measurements of 8.75 x 21mm put this at a ligne size of 3.75 x 9.25 (or perhaps 4 x 9.5). There aren't that many movements of this size and the most common is the FHF 59 (which other manufacturers used as well and gave their own movement ID to). Unfortunately it's not this as the keyless works and bridge layout are completely different to your movement. Which brings me on to your probability of an ETA 651. That's a no ... at 10 x 22.7mm it's larger than yours and of course the keyless works (and bridge layout) are different. In my searching I had also come across the ETA 746 but it's the same story. I have spent ages looking through stuff trying to find your movement but no luck. I've found setting lever springs that look similar but then a no-go on the movement size; a (Van) Buren movement looked promising but didn't tie up etc. etc. I hope someone strikes lucky!
  4. ARSA is the watch company founded by Auguste Reymond (AR). SA stands for societe anonyme which just means limited company - hence ARSA. Later ARSA joined the Ebauches SA group of companies. If you go to mikrolisk.de and type in Memo you'll see that Memo Gold and Memo Stop were trade marks of Ebauches SA. It's therefore not unreasonable to imagine a situation where an ARSA marked movement was placed in a Memo branded watch. Long story short - Memo is likely just a marketing / brand name used within Ebauches SA of which ARSA was a part. And coming up with a new brand name was not uncommon especially when trying to sell in a new overseas market. You can probably imagine otherwise all the ARSA related jokes...
  5. I believe this is your movement: http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=PUL_Y371A Clicking on a part on this page gives helpful interchange information. For the movement itself it is apparently a Seiko 4326A. Getting the datasheet from Cousins and putting the image from it against your Morioka Y371A and they sure look similar...
  6. Not every maker puts their ID under the balance wheel so, yes, take the dial off to give a picture of the dial side (and to include keyless works). Also a picture of the dial too if there is a brand on there as that might give a steer. Another sharper pic of the movement would be good too. Your original above is quite fuzzy on enlarging.
  7. It sounds like you've been a bit unlucky but, yes, watch movements are delicate pieces of engineering and easy to damage in untrained hands In this case the balance wheel perimeter is really close to the edge of the movement and the pivots could easily have been damaged if you shunted into the wheel when taking the back off. As jdm and Andy say though it would need a professional to look at it to diagnose the issue properly. As a watch lover I would always advocate someone gets a watch fixed where possible - there are too many nice watches languishing in drawers out there! Unfortunately in a lot of cases this isn't economically viable as repair/servicing outweighs a watch's value. Is this ebay listing the same as your wife's watch?: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-SWISS-MADE-BAUME-MERCIER-GENEVE-LADIES-GOLD-PLATED-WATCH-WORKING/392397560151 If so this gives an indication of perceived value. Of course if the watch is of importance and sentimental value to your wife then you should get it fixed and cost will be irrelevant. Otherwise if this is something not often worn and with no attachment you might want to instead put the money towards another watch of your wife's choice to get back in her good books.
  8. I'm not familiar with the Parennin specifically, and it's difficult to find much info on the web about this movement, so I'll need to talk generally... A date change mech will normally consist of i) a wheel (or relevant mech) that pushes the date ring forward at midnight and ii) a date jumper that ensures that the date ring clicks forward neatly one day. The date jumper is just a simple lever with a smooth curved end held lightly in position with a spring. When the date ring is pushed forward it slides over the next notch in the date ring and relocates. However if the original date jumper spring has been replaced with something that is too strong this can cause too much drag (or even prevent a date change) and affects the movement. This is the most likely initial cause and my suggestion to prove it would therefore be to remove the date jumper and spring and see if the date moves forward and the watch continues to keep time. If however the watch still misbehaves at date-change time then we're to the mech that changes the date. You may need to post a picture or two to see if myself or someone else can spot the issue in that case.
  9. Does this happen once or twice a day ? If once a day then it's probably something to do with the date changing mech not quite running smoothly and the 'drag' causing an issue. If twice a day then put the crown in the time-change position and take a close look at the hour hand as your move it slowly around the dial ... does it sweep cleanly with an equal distance between it and the dial at all times? You just want to ensure that the dial is seated correctly and the hour hand was put back on level. If this checks out then be certain there isn't some some contaminate somewhere e.g. some fluff or dirt in between a tooth on the hour wheel.
  10. A big hand like that usually indicates the ability to show a second time zone (aka GMT capability). But I'm editing my original answer as @wls1971 has the answer below...!
  11. The construction looks like a Seiko 7625 e.g. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?11&zenoshop&0&2uswk&Seiko_7625D
  12. Superb. Glad everything worked out. Both these watches look fantastic. Well done!
  13. In lieu of someone coming up with the hand you need, or a source to buy from, I've got something that probably fits into your category of an idea! You can pick up generic second hands relatively inexpensively from a source like Cousins: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/centre-seconds-by-size; they do the 0.25mm you need. Now whilst it looks like the longest they do is only 15mm note this is from the centre hole to the end; not the entire length. How long is the entire hand? I'm not sure but if I take their scale diagram and do a very simplistic split-the-15mm-into-four I get 3.75mm per quarter. If I then transpose that quarter to the remaining length I can see the entire length will be over the 18.5mm you need: But you require a squared off end ... so you could carefully file to the length and profile you need. Bingo! Ah ... but it's not blue. Well that's now over to your requirements and skills. Painting (e.g. airbrushing) is straightforward or you could look at any of the helpful online resources videos on how to hot blue (stainless) steel.
  14. Good advice from @watchweasol. Most likely a servicing issue rather than a breakage. Imagine your watch as a little engine and where the pivots for the various 'engine' parts run in lubricated (jewel) holes. Over time that important lubrication deteriorates and the engine parts cannot spin freely and the watch does not run. When you tap the watch you give enough energy for the watch to run again and overcome the deficient lubrication but the effect is of course only temporary. What a watch service does is to dismantle the watch, thoroughly clean all the parts, re-lubricate the necessary parts and perhaps replace a worn item like the mainspring. Much like a car service you could do this yourself but you'll need the tools and expertise to do it. Otherwise you have to take it to someone who can service it ... but as a skilled and time consuming job it's not a budget thing. So for most people how they proceed boils down to the value of the watch ... not only in cold monetary terms but also their connection to the watch. Unfortunately with perfectly lovely watches that are not of high value a lot of people decide the service cost is not worth it. A shame as there must be gazillions of watches languishing in drawers out there!
  15. For a newcomer the skills you'll be needing to pick up are to do with dexterity in handling small parts with tweezers, undoing screws and making sure the screwdriver blade doesn't slip, cleaning parts, reassembly, putting the balance back in place etc. etc. You don't want to be starting out with expensive movements and so pin-lever designs (like the Ronda 1113) are ideal as they'll introduce you to the makeup of a watch and allow you to practice the above skills and can be picked up pretty inexpensively. Initially I'd advise getting hold of a working movement. This way you can concentrate on the important dexterity skills and disassembling and reassembling with the aim of the watch still working afterwards! The danger with picking up a non-working movement - especially on cheaper movements with limited shock protection and jewel counts - is that the balance staff can be shot or parts worn which then means you have to get other movements the same for spares or new parts which outweigh the value of the movement. So in summary I'd say the actual movement you chose is less important than getting something that works already and/or where there is good availability of other 'spares or repairs' movements the same so if something goes wrong you have a parts backup source.
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