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WatchMaker last won the day on January 9

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About WatchMaker

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  1. WatchMaker

    Roxedo Manual Wind EB 8800

    You're doing the right thing investigating and finding your way around an inexpensive movement to start with! It's difficult to say if there may be other problems. This is a simple and sturdy pin lever movement but if there was an incident that was violent enough to break the pins from the pallet fork that doesn't bode well! My attention was also immediately drawn to the fact that there would normally be a jewel in that balance wheel but you have none .... however a quick check shows the EB 8800 came in 0, 1, 17 and 21 versions so you must have the base model with no jewels. It is possible to still get spare parts for vintage movements. If you go to https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/filter/eb-movement-parts for instance and select 8800 as the EB Calibre Number and then click 'Search For Items' you'll see all the parts it's possible to get for your 8800. These are prices ex-VAT and you'd need to factor in postage. You can see that you'll soon rank up a bill where just the spares outweigh the whole value of your movement so... ... assuming you want to continue then your best bet would be to source another (or more than one) spare 8800 movement from a site like ebay and then exchange parts as necessary i.e. make one good movement from the two (or move) movements you have.
  2. Agree with @eezyrider that if you're struggling this much then an open ended strap might be the way to go! This type of strap slots through a bar and secures with a tab. Your pics don't show the underside of the strap to check if it is already an open-ended design but a quick look on ebay and item 223189626008 is the same as yours and the strap looks 'normal'. This means the bars should remove (also very likely since a mass produced fashion watch wouldn't employ a design that made things difficult to put together). What if you get a pair of needle nose pliers and grip a bar tightly ... can you get any side-to-side movement? As to the setting of your watch it's a Miyota 6P29 movement so easy to track down a spec document for: http://miyotamovement.com/pdf/spec_6P25.pdf. In this case it's the single-click out to set the date; two clicks out to set the time and day.
  3. Re. the screw filing ... could this be of interest: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Bergeon-No-1999-Watchmakers-Tool-Filing-Balance-Screws/312264313157... ?
  4. WatchMaker

    Mondia 17J Help

    Hi @alex084614 - use the following URL ... https://translate.google.co.uk/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwatch-wiki.org%2Findex.php%3Ftitle%3DMondia&edit-text= ... to see the translation from the German watch-wiki site about the Mondia watch company. As still happens today, a company that happens to make watches does not necessarily manufacture all the parts and Mondia would almost certainly have 'bought in' movements from a movement manufacturer to then put together watches of their own designs and sell under their brand name. Quite often the movement manufacturer will put their mark near or underneath the balance wheel. Can you get any close up in this area and see any such mark or a symbol?
  5. Hi @StuartBaker104 - you've obviously done your bronze research but just thought I'd add in something for consideration... I know you're looking at phosphor bronzes in the main but there are also silicon bronzes. A good overview here ... https://www.avivametals.com/collections/silicon-bronze ... mentions "offers added strength in conjunction with the self-lubricity of silicon for excellent bearing and load properties". Handily, because silicon bronze is used for brazing, then rods of 1.6mm and 1.0mm OD can be sourced ... just the OD dimensions you need.
  6. We seem to share very similar tastes! I have other Revue movement based watches and even had a small pocket watch movement I'd acquired that seemed too good to just sit in a drawer so I created my own wrist watch with it ... pic attached. MSR (Manufactures d'Horlogerie Suisses Reunies) was actually formed in 1961 when four watch companies decided to join forces. These were Revue Thommen, Vulcain, Phénix and Buser (with Vertex and Marvin joining the MSR fold later). Which of this consortium designed our T43/T56 I'm unsure but I think the quality is still there. I'm of the opinion they were perhaps trying to have some USP and designing in something a bit different because of this! Of course we'd both rather they hadn't but we want things to be a bit challenging...!
  7. Sorry @mikepilk - the device I was looking on put that movement diagram front and centre and I hadn't scrolled up a little to see the very clear pictures of your actual movement too! Oops! That's what I was checking though and, so yes, you have the capsule shaped recess for the spring. There is then definitely no separate spring holder. I've used your picture to draw in the spring profile as I remember it and attach this pic i.e. the spring just providing a pretty light touch to the minute wheel. I had a lot of problems with this movement type too. With hands slipping I even took a cannon pinion from a 'spare', and fully working, T43 to put in my T56 but this didn't cure things! Grr! I put a conclusion to why this might have been in my earlier posting I referenced; it seems that separate cannon pinion is a tricky number. I resorted to dots on wheels and monitoring to isolate the issues (plural) I was having. I'm here for moral support if you need it! To cheer you up I also attach a pic of my T56 based Revue which, I'm glad to say, was eventually fixed! Sounds like you're almost there too!
  8. Hi @mikepilk - yes there should be a spring here. I've searched back through photos I've taken and fortunately I've found one that should help as attached. This is when I was trying to fathom why my hands weren't turning ... hence the temporary blue dot on the minute wheel. I'm not sure if your parts diagram is misleading. So whilst, yes, there should be a spring (476) I certainly do not recall any separate spring holder (476.1). Are you referencing the 'Revue GT44' sheet which, whilst I appreciate is based on the MSR T43 series, might have subtle differences? If I look at the base plate in your diagram for instance there is a very clear hole / gap in the region above where the minute wheel would go ... but on my base plate this was all solid metal. The recess the spring would go in my base plate was essentially a capsule shaped recess i.e. an 'inbuilt' spring holder rather than a separate part. If you look at the data sheet on the Cousins site (at https://www.cousinsuk.com/PDF/categories/6295_MSR T43.pdf) this would seem to confirm with only a 476 referenced. What is your base plate like? Assuming it is T43-like-solid I'm happy to get the spare T-series movement I have in my collection and disassemble around this region to give you a close up of the spring so you can get a (better) idea. From memory it is not quite the shape shown in your diagram and had a simpler profile with the spring providing just a modicum of tension on the minute wheel.
  9. WatchMaker

    ETA 7751 Moonphase

    This may be of interest: http://watchguy.co.uk/service-eternamatic-triple-date-chronograph-valjoux-7751/
  10. WatchMaker

    Opinions on tools

    If you're just starting out I wouldn't worry too much about the screwdriver sharpening aspect; decent blades 'out of the box' will be fine. If as you progress you want to start thinking about this then read other forum topics like https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/5292-screwdriver-sharpening/. For the moment I think your time would be better spent learning how to disassemble and reassemble a basic movement. Tweezers come in an array of sizes and you'll notice numbers (and letters on them) to indicate their style. The suggested purchase you've picked out has a 3 and 3C but these are much the same i.e. thin tipped tweezers. The only real difference is that the 3C has a shorter shank. As with any engineering skill people will have personal preferences for tools but for a lot of work on 'normal size' movements (lets take circa 11.5 ligne) I find I use an SS style the most i.e. tweezers with a longer shank and fine tips. As you're starting out my advice therefore would be to get a set of decent tweezers in a variety of styles/sizes and find out which ones you get on better with. I note your link referenced ebay.ca so I'd be suggesting you'd be better off with something like https://www.ebay.ca/itm/6-piece-Epoxy-coated-tweezers-set-st36/262728142056. This gives you a wider range of nice new antimagnetic stainless steel tweezers to start out with.
  11. WatchMaker

    Trolls, Spammers & One-timers.....

    It's difficult being a moderator on a forum like this dealing with everyone from the professional, through the hobbyist down to the complete amateur who's broken their watch and wants one-off advice or sometimes, frankly, is too lazy to spend more than the 30 seconds it takes to use google to find their answer so just pops it on our forum. I'd like to say a personal thanks to @oldhippy for his hard work and good advice and certainly we don't want you stepping down as a moderator! Some of the changes suggested here, such as a waiting period for new members is a good idea. Heck ... there could even be a nominal joining fee. A few dollars for good advice is nothing for someone who is serious about repairing a watch (even as a one off topic on a treasured watch) or wants to turn their current interest into a hobby or more. This would also not only help with the upkeep of the site but dissuade chunks of that chaff. Just an idea.
  12. WatchMaker

    Opinions on tools

    I agree with @Pango and so, yes, frankly you probably need to practice your technique as much as anything. Getting expensive versions of tools will not prevent you wrecking a movement. Cheap screwdriver blades will deteriorate quickly so that purchase on screws is compromised leading to slippage and damage. There's no reason you can't keep your existing handles and just upgrade the blades though. I've always got on well with the A*F Swiss ones. My bet is you've got one of the "9mm to 65mm" versions of https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/adjustable# in which case, yes, if you've got, say, a 11.5 ligne movement you're working on then you've got around 60% of the holder not being supported leading to an unbalanced situation. Assuming you'll stick to movements more around the 11.5 ligne range then you could chop off the excess guide and screw rails and also put Rodico (or even BlueTac) on all four feet of the holder; you should find this makes things far more stable. I have a good movement holder but I often find myself working with one of the rings from the set https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/07mm-to-50mm-plastic-rings for some projects; useful doesn't have to be expensive. And one final comment on magnification. One of my mistakes when I set out was using a loupe with too high a magnification meaning leaning in very close to the movement to work on it. Due to helpful advice on this forum I moved to a headband magnifier to carry out most work. There are professional 'OptiVisor' versions but there are cheaper versions, still using optical glass, which are very good too (look for instance at ebay item 132780644579).
  13. WatchMaker

    Can this be fixed?

    Welcome Fee. Sorry to hear about your broken watch. You've asked specifically about a repair option so I'll explain one first before going through another option you could consider! Fix option: you would need to get a very fine diamond drill bit (e.g. 1mm) specifically for drilling glass/ceramic and very carefully make a hole to a depth of about 4mm in the broken lug . In this hole you would superglue a support post (this could be a small piece cut off the bottom of the drill bit). Around this support post you would then mould a lug and use a mouldable epoxy ... a company called Milliput produce a superfine white epoxy putty. With care you could fashion a lug that looks the part and the benefit of this putty is that it is sandable if any smoothing or correction is required once cured. You would then have to colour match the lug with paint and lacquer to attempt to reproduce the ceramic finish and blend in the repair. This repair would be strong but would never be as strong as the original ceramic case so you'd have to treat your repaired watch with some care going forward. At this point you might think this sound like a lot of effort or isn't something you want to tackle! Alternative case option: if you want to stick with a ceramic case, and since the rest of your watch is okay, you could look out for a similar case (assuming a second-hand Oniss is not a cost effective approach). You might not be able to get exactly the same design but if all the dimensions of the case are the same (width, dial width, height, lug width etc.) then a competent watch repairer could swap your movement and strap to this other case. Of course you might just want to put this accident down to a life experience and ensure your next watch is a little more durable. Let us know what you end up doing!
  14. WatchMaker

    Opinion on Longines watch

    If you do a google image search for, say, 'Longines 1920s cushion watch' it appears that a large array of different hand shapes were used for this style of watch. Difficult to therefore say what's original or best so this may come down to personal preference! Skimming through these images I did note this ... https://www.watchpatrol.net/listing/582719/ ... which is very similar to yours and uses the Breguet style for both hands. I reckon this looks pretty nice!
  15. I had an issue with this type of movement (a T56) last year ... you might be interested to read this posting: https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/7678-msr-t56-hands-not-moving-advice-please/ Mine was an odd situation and a double whammy (slipping hand caused by cannon pinion and slightly loose hand). Let us know how you get on.