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  1. How much?

    Thank you so much Gary - that would be great. I have a good condition dial that another posting a while back on this forum was helpfully identified as originally being mated to a Marvin 580C movement. I'm only an amateur and trying to solder on new dial feet to fit an alternative movement is just asking for trouble; I can just imagine the paint on the dial melting etc.! This is why I'm holding out for a 580C.
  2. How much?

    Hi Gary The movement I need is a 580C. Occasionally keep an eye out on ebay but not much luck so far!
  3. How much?

    LOL! Well it made me do a big double take. Bezel wear? Nothing a bit of T-Cut couldn't buff out! I've got a couple of Marvins myself and realise they're nice watches but way down the cost hierarchy! If I had nigh on $10k to spend on a watch it wouldn't be on this Marvin which looks like it's been in a cement mixer. The seller is open to offers though so I'm with WillFly ... maybe a $9.95 offer instead of the $9,950?!!
  4. Concord 73 advice

    Thanks for the reply. I'll keep an eye out but, as you say, this is likely to be an elusive part. Oh well plenty of other things to keep me busy!
  5. Still on the hunt for a particular Marvin movement so just browsing ebay and spotted item 152675195705 : Hang on ... $9,950?!!! What am I missing here?!
  6. Concord 73 advice

    My hobby usually only extends to repairing and making watches but I have a nice alarm clock too that it would be an interesting project to get working. This has a Concord 73 movement in generally good condition but with a missing balance ('balance complete'). I've been able to find very little information on this movement except it relates to an A.Schild 895 or 742 and a grainy picture: Can anyone provide any further information ... and crucially where a balance could be obtained? If the balance simply isn't 'out there' then could I theoretically get a balance from a 'similar' 19''' movement ... or is that a silly/flawed technical challenge to even consider. Many thanks in advance for any advice. It would be a shame to leave this in the back of a drawer.
  7. Movement id (again)

    No immediate recognition but something that might be of interest to you is that if you go to ebay and do a search for item 142259872185 and then item 171670454415 both these movements have striking similarities to yours (although some differences too!). The main point is that both these separate sellers refer to the movement as 'ETA Benrus' with the former narrowing it down to a 'Benrus AD10 ETA 810'. I realise this is then very different to the ETA 810 shown on ranfft but might at least give you some information to search on further (???)
  8. Hmmm. What's this movement then?

    The eight pointed star is associated with the Junghans brand. Do a web search for something like 'j59 movement' and you should be able to find some info.
  9. Real antimagnetic watch

    We're in danger of making this a magnetic science thread but I'm certainly very interested if you get time for a video! I thought from some of the earlier comments that you were into the stratospheric Gauss ratings but with the shielding of the machine you use keeping things down to around 0.3T your approach sounds both interesting and plausible. I did find this thread for you which gives the relative properties of different materials ... ... now if only you could find some supermalloy! ;-) I'm getting into making my own dials at the moment so would also be interested in your enamelling procedure as this is something I've considered dabbling in!
  10. Real antimagnetic watch

    An alloy like MuMetal certainly has superior magnetic 'permeability' protection at lower magnetic field strengths but this drops rapidly once we're into higher realms; let's say above about 0.6 Tesla. At these higher field strengths I understand soft iron actually outperforms if we're talking about a simple single layer situation comparison. In a lab situation the cage type situation you've mentioned would normally consist of various measures e.g. soft iron and separated MuMetal layers to provide maximum protection to what's inside the 'cage'. For a watch manufacturer with ultra limited space then they've had to judge the best route for the protection they're seeking that could affect the watch movement and have decided the best is an iron core. But remember even the best anti-magnetic watches out there will only cite 10,000 to 15,000 Gauss protection ... so 1 to 1.5 Tesla. If you want protection above this you're going to have to get creative. Given the above information you might want to consider a largeish gents watch case ... but with a small (ladies?) movement sourced for its lack of non-ferrous materials. Now you have the space between movement and case to try some creative layering to create the best low-Gauss chamber!
  11. They'll be embossed just as wls1971 says. Good little article here if you're interested: With pad printing using a flexible medium to transfer the ink then, yes, small embossed reliefs on the dial should not present a problem. Also very likely that the embossed numbers themselves are hand finished in some way.
  12. On cleaning.

    No problem! Didn't want you giving up when it sounds like you're almost there. I've only learnt my techniques through various trials-and-errors ... and of course the good advice on this forum. Bad luck on the ebay saga. Although I don't repair clocks it's always worth looking at the Clock Corner forum of this site and read some of @oldhippy 's wittily acerbic comments about the misrepresented, um, rubbish he's spotted on ebay! Ebay carriage clock anyone ... ?!
  13. On cleaning.

    In agreement with transporter on this one. if you're dealing with watches over a century old then more often than not you're going to need to dismantle to get a proper clean not to mention effective oiling. However I do empathise with the balance handling difficulties. Practice, technique and a degree of confidence are needed. I've only been doing this hobby a relatively small amount of time and, like you, have had a number of frustrations. On the particular subject of balances below are things simply from my experience; everyone's going to have their preferences! A really good forum thread recently was and worth reading if you haven't done so; this discusses two methods for lifting/replacing the balance. In summary one method is to hold the balance wheel and cock together; the other is just to deal with the balance cock and 'dangle' the balance wheel. I actually use both methods! The first for removal; the second for replacement. Let me try and explain! There's a great likelihood that if the watches you're dealing with haven't been serviced or used in decades that the balance wheel is stuck to some degree. Just trying to remove things via the balance cock will probably mean lift-lift-lift until suddenly the balance wheel pops out ... or damage to the hairspring has been done. I therefore instead gently prise the balance cock up so it is definitely clear of the mainplate and effectively just gently resting there. I then take a fine screwdriver and gently lever the balance wheel up to ensure it is disingaged from the lower jewel. I then lift the balance wheel and cock out of the movement together. I have lots of professional grade tweezers but by far the best for me from trying various ones has been a cheapo pair of bronze 'size 3' tweezers! For cleaning then I see if I can get away with not dismantling the whole balance assembly; don't fix it if it ain't broke! You'll want to inspect the pivots and assuming they're okay of course but then it's onto cleaning. For this I have a shallow glass dish that I put some isopropyl alcohol in and with a deft movement (practice this!) flip the complete balance assembly over so the balance wheel is resting on the cock. Now place in the dish. You can inspect under a loupe and if some dirt is visible another good technique is to use a simple handheld watch dust blower to agitate the alcohol to dislodge the dirt. Once happy things looks good and clean you then remove the balance assembly and rest on kitchen towel to take off excess fluid and use the dust blower to evaporate the rest. You should now have a good clean balance assembly. After assembling the rest of the gear train to check for smooth running the balance goes in last. I use the second technique mentioned above to this by firmly holding just the balance cock and letting the balance dangle from the spring; this makes it easier to align impulse jewel. You then rest the balance cock on the mainplate and gently nudge it into its correct position. Check for free movement all the time whilst gently screwing it back into place. Sounds easy when writing it ... but I empathise with the frustrations that can sometimes exist. Good luck!
  14. Seiko 5717 8990 Chapter Ring

    And just a bit of lateral thinking ... You could look out for a cheapish quartz watch of the same dimensions on a site like ebay and cannibalise it for a part. There are probably hundreds of candidates out there and a scour for something of the right dimensions and style could solve your problem. Took me 20 seconds to find ... ... which I know is not an exact match but you get the idea. I'll let you do the grunt work of searching if this idea is a flyer...!
  15. Seiko 5717 8990 Chapter Ring

    Likely a special edition Seiko for the (Nissan) Skyline along the lines of the pic below. It's going to be tricky to find a chapter ring with the five-increments-per-second that was likely in the watch originally. Either you might have to sacrifice originality and go for a more ubiquitous per-second chapter ring or, as rogart says, look out for a chapter ring from another watch and just check with the seller the dimensions to check it will fit your case.