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WatchMaker

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WatchMaker last won the day on December 24 2018

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  1. I'm with @GeorgeC on this i.e. this is not a shock protection spring but simply a retaining clip. This contrasts with ranfft which says that the 712 should have a Kif Protechoc system. It could be therefore that Elgin made the improvement to use a proper protection system later in the movement's manufacturing history.
  2. No problem ... and I agree this isn't always the easiest subject - especially where dimensions like dome heights aren't often mentioned! I hope the 30.7 works out. I should have qualified my original reply with a dependency on how tight your existing 30.6 is for that 0.1 increase suggestion. If it's already a very tight fit then the 30.6 might have been okay but usually the 0.1 increase over a measured outside diameter is a useful guideline. If you've already ordered then you can always take some fine abrasive paper and gently take away any fraction off the 30.7 should this be necessary!
  3. With a ring inside the crystal this is an armed tension type. The Sternnkreuz 'G22' catalogue covers these which you can download at http://www.sternkreuz.de/accordion/assets/Sternkreuz_Gesamtkatalog G22.pdf Whilst for the Sternkreuz 'ST'' range Roamer does have some specific citations (p25), for the 'ATC' range you need none are mentioned. Almost certainly therefore you'll be fine with a standard ATC crystal that meets your measurements. The usual advice is to go 0.1 larger than the outside diameter measurement you've taken. This means when you release the crystal, after it has been gently 'squeezed' in the claw removal/fitting tool, it makes a nice tight fit. Since you're using Cousins your best bet is going to therefore be https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/standard-chrome-ringed-glass-atc# and the 30.7mm size.
  4. Looking at the original posting there are a number of problems you have: 1) missing bezel; 2) missing movement holder; 3) missing hour marker on the dial. The brand or maker is relatively irrelevant here ... getting individual parts for any watch can be difficult since there is no central repository or service for this. As other posters have said your best bet is usually to keep an eye out on ebay for what you need ... either a whole watch to 'cannibalise' what you need from or the individual parts you need. Ironically the part that actually marks time (the movement) can usually be found more readily since whole movements can be purchased for these type of watches! A quick look on ebay and there is the bezel available (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Gucci-Replacement-Bezel-9000-M/233126585935?hash=item36476d664f:g:M3IAAOSwPYZU9SMG) ... yippee! Ah ... but it'll cost you around £54 (item plus postage). On better news for 2 you can relatively easily get generic movement holders. Your ETA 955.412 movement classes as a 10.5 ligne size so you need that size of holder. You can look out for a variety on ebay or similar. For the hour marker you can often see joblots of second hand dials on ebay and you could look out for something where you can take one off (assuming you can't locate a whole dial). Or, if you're the creative type you could even make one from some polished brass. I guess a lot of this is going to boil down to value or watch and cost to fix all the ailments ... versus its sentimental value. Another suggestion if you're trying to do this all on a limited budget is to consider some kind of hybrid solution e.g. buy a second hand alternative case or watch with bezel that looks similar ... but use the original dial etc. plus strap with this. You have the essence of the original watch for its sentimental value but at a reasonable cost. Just an idea!
  5. Watches for the blind have been around for a long time. The traditional system you mention (where the watch user will open the front and gently feel the position of the hands) through to more modern versions and ones that can do a lot more than tell the time (check out the Dot Watch!). I guess things will come down to the actual nature of your project and how literal the term 'innovative' is! The system you're pursuing is not new ... although I expect you have some snazzy ideas up your sleeves. If you continue to go with this then let me answer your main query of how you are "able to make the hands not move on the dial". This should not be a problem; the traditional system watches are effectively standard watch movements. This means the watch user can only alter the hand positions when pulling the crown out to put the movement in a setting position and then turning the crown. With the crown in the normal pushed in 'non setting' position the hands do not move by touch alone. [The watch user must still be gentle when using the watch however as hands are friction fitted so could still be compromised with very rough handling].
  6. From 28 seconds into the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aphVSzced9I it looks like this bracelet uses a knurled pin type. You mention Cousins and I see they do them in 0.90 and 1.00 diameters (although only in whole mm lengths). Now knowing the pin type name, if these look like a match to what you have, you might have better luck sourcing an exact match somewhere else though.
  7. They're 20 x 2mm. I've found this page for you to confirm this: https://www.craftandtailored.com/products/spring-bars-for-no-date-rolex-submariner-14060-20mm So if you're using Cousins search for item R19196.
  8. As the saying goes: You're a poet ... and you didn't know it! It"s just the staff that is shot so I'll take a punt on the Waltham close match. I usually work on jewelled movements that are more commonplace so parts, even if pricey, can at least be obtained. Pure lack of information on OC calibres was the main enemy here but I have the tools and patience to at least give the Waltham close match staff a go! Perhaps recentlly reading the book Longitude has made me persevere on this pin lever. People struggled for many decades to get a device to measure time accurately and here we have the very essence of simplicity to do that in something very humble. The rose tinted specs come off with the lack of any shock protection though ...
  9. Thanks @Nucejoe that's very useful and with that information I've looked at balancestaffs.com. The problem with the Rego 148 I see is that the staff design does not look quite right plus the shoulder widths are too large. You are quite correct ... the original staff had a balance roller that slides onto the staff. I removed this (and it's shown in my original pic) and would be the part that slides onto the 0.6mm roller shoulder. But your mention of balancestaffs.com gave me an idea for a reverse look up attempt. They measure to the 100th of a mm and because my staff height measurement is an approximation I played with look ups for heights from 4.05 (405) to 4.15 (415). From this I came across a possible fit for a balance staff with Ronda number 1912. Okay this is for a Waltham but dimensions for the crucial areas come up close to my measurements. Mmm ... could be worth a punt maybe.
  10. Wow @Nucejoe and @jdrichard ... you are amazing! This is a pretty basic pin lever movement and would normally go on the uneconomical-to-repair pile but I've gotten soft in my old age and would like to get it going. That's an incredibly generous offer @jdrichard but on such a basic movement it would be criminal to waste your talents; perhaps I keep this offer open for when I have something of greater horological value! @Nucejoe you've given me an idea that maybe I should get one of those job lot of staffs that come up on ebay and chance there is something to fit! On the off chance however that you can help identify a Ronda number with what I have then... A: current height is 3.90 however this is with the broken lower pivot. If I say around 0.20mm for a pivot length (reasonable?) then this would actually make the balance staff height around 4.10mm. B: lower pivot to top of balance / collet seat is 2.10mm. Again allowing for 0.20mm for the missing pivot this would then actually be 2.30mm. C: collet shoulder diameter is 0.7mm. D: roller shoulder diameter is 0.6mm. Dimensions are 'approximately accurate' i.e. taken as best I could with digital calipers!
  11. Hi I have a pin lever movement that needs fixing ... a common problem of a broken pivot on the balance staff. The movement has 'OC 71' on it but I have been unable to find any information about this particular movement. It does however looks similar to the OC 120 seen at http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&a&2uswk&OC_120 (which is a Rego 153). Not being able to find any information on the OC route I sourced a balance complete for the Rego 153. This however is a dead end as the balance staff design is completely different. The picture below shows the issue. The balance wheel on the left is the original where the balance roller can be separated. The balance staff from the Rego 153 balance complete is on the right; its design is completely different (and with the roller integrated into the balance wheel). Long story short there's no way it will work with the OC movement I have. I am now stuck on what to do. With no information on the OC 71 how can I source an appropriate balance staff?
  12. It's a KIF 3 also known as Elastor. You might find this document useful: https://www.cousinsuk.com/PDF/categories/1384_Kif Valjoux.pdf
  13. Aren"t we waiting on that picture of the inside?!
  14. Can you give the ligne size (length and width since it's not round) to try and help us narrow it down?
  15. Tolerances shouldn't be that tight between centre wheel and balance: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_BxvHLW2evM ! I'd start with the centre wheel and check there's no damage to the pinion and that the wheel itself sits squarely i.e. does not have a small deformity in it which means it does not then run truly horizontally. After this check that the wheel can be seated cleanly as per https://watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/media?image=IMG_9744.JPG&email=&wat_id=680 (click on the image to get a close-up). Since you will have had to remove pallet fork and balance to do this it's worth double checking a true running by looking at the centre wheel while the train rotates and that everything looks okay. If that all checks out then ensure there is no foreign object that has somehow gotten under the balance cock and that the balance can subsequently be seated properly with the balance cock fully screwed down. Any joy?
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