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WatchMaker

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WatchMaker last won the day on December 24 2018

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  1. It's a KIF 3 also known as Elastor. You might find this document useful: https://www.cousinsuk.com/PDF/categories/1384_Kif Valjoux.pdf
  2. Aren"t we waiting on that picture of the inside?!
  3. Can you give the ligne size (length and width since it's not round) to try and help us narrow it down?
  4. Tolerances shouldn't be that tight between centre wheel and balance: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_BxvHLW2evM ! I'd start with the centre wheel and check there's no damage to the pinion and that the wheel itself sits squarely i.e. does not have a small deformity in it which means it does not then run truly horizontally. After this check that the wheel can be seated cleanly as per https://watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/media?image=IMG_9744.JPG&email=&wat_id=680 (click on the image to get a close-up). Since you will have had to remove pallet fork and balance to do this it's worth double checking a true running by looking at the centre wheel while the train rotates and that everything looks okay. If that all checks out then ensure there is no foreign object that has somehow gotten under the balance cock and that the balance can subsequently be seated properly with the balance cock fully screwed down. Any joy?
  5. Do a (Worldwide) search on ebay for hamilton crown and there are plenty so you might find one with the right dimensions. The word 'Khaki' might not be mentioned so don't necessarily focus on that . [Although there is specifically a listing that does: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HAMILTON-KHAKI-GENTS-WRIST-WATCH-CROWN-NEW/253903214952?hash=item3b1dcf9968:g:esUAAOSwzC9bSMLu]. Alternatively unless you've just got to have a little 'H' on the crown then, as @TexasDon says, you could go for an aftermarket (i.e. generic) one. These can be picked up in just about any size from a site like ebay.
  6. The crystals on watches inevitably get scratched or damaged so replacements are readily available in most sizes for most watches. Same deal if the one on your (pocket) watch is missing ... you just need to buy a new one. For instance: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-BRAND-NEW-41-5-ACRYLIC-POCKET-WATCH-CRYSTAL-TO-FIT-SMITHS-INGERSOLL-SERVICES-9/163484960530 may hit the mark. Obviously measure the diameter of the recessed area on your watch that will hold the crystal to double check the diameter before you buy; if this link isn't correct for you then search for a pocket watch crystal of the correct diameter. As to the 552M this is almost certainly just a model number. [Your logic is a good guess but this would imply there should be, say, a 551M for a January production but Ingersoll and 551M do not come up as a match in a web search].
  7. I believe the ST1812 is a clone of the the 2892-A2 ... an 11.5''' movement. Unfortunately getting a case for these seems problematic. You could look out for a second hand complete watch (that uses the 2892-A2, ST1812, or SW300) to use the case from but that would then presumably defeat the purpose of you getting the movement only to work with! There's no reason you can't get a not-necessarily-designed-for-the-2892 case however ... your main lookout is going to be the stem height expected. Perhaps your best bet is to seek out a 2824 case. There are plenty out there and in your 40mm preference. I mention this calibre because there is only a 0.3mm difference in stem height which you may be able to 'get away with'. Otherwise you're looking at needing some kind of dial ring / spacer. The movement holder that may come with the case may also need some adjustment to cope with the thinner 2892-A2 movement.
  8. I did look at the 645 for you when investigating but discounted it as the parts sheet (available via Cousins) only details a sweep second. I hope you get a break on this; it's no fun hitting a wall on an elusive part. Almost certainly a dead end so I'm not sure why I'm suggesting it but ... perhaps look at other ETA movements that do have an obvious small / sub seconds part (e.g. 2895-2) and compare to your broken part for a possible fit. As a last resort you might have to fix the pinion on your broken part. Good luck!
  9. If it's an ETA 2836-2 based ORIS movement then as far as I can ascertain this will apply to either the calibre 644 or 690. [I suspect the former as the latter seems to have an additional complication for a second time zone as a further sub dial which you do not mention]. Like you however I've drawn a blank finding out any information / parts for this calibre . The reason I'm replying is in case, if you agree with the above, another forum member has any further knowledge on the calibre.
  10. I suspect the stem is unique to the 2809. A look on http://www.windingstems.com gives the Ronda number for the 2809 stem as 1765. A 'reverse lookup' on this Ronda number then just throws up the Vosotk / Wostok. Cousins however have the stem listed; and there may be other suppliers.
  11. There are videos on YouTube e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HFvcgmIM2B4 is helpful for a beginner. I replied on a similar query too recently at https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/10623-tw-steel-glass-replacement/#comment-96293 . In summary you'll need to remove the movement from the case, pop the glass out by pushing from the inside; replace the glass; and put the movement back. This is best done with a crystal press tool which can be picked up pretty inexpensively via a site like ebay.
  12. The bezel doesn't need to be removed to replace the crystal. You will however have to remove the movement since the glass will need to be pushed from inside the case to remove it. And ideally with a suitable crystal press tool. Since pictures can speak a thousand words I've done a quick search on YouTube for you and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T0Zqit4r0wM seems as good a video as any. If you're new at this it might be worth watching the whole video but at approximately minute 8 to 9 is the action shot relating to what you need to do. Hope this helps.
  13. These kind of watch strap bars are called 't-bars' and would normally be threaded allowing removal by a screwdriver. For a mass produced watch like this - and perhaps even for safety reasons if it is a child's watch - I'm reckoning two parts are simply hydraulically pressed together at the factory and not intended to separated. This tight interference fit is also likely as it's noted this is not a normal strap (with lugs that a bar goes through) and is held in by the friction of the factory fitted bars. Best bet is probably some epoxy glue to fix the strap in place temporarily and a new watch goes to the top of the birthday list.
  14. In short ... yes. I have located this document for you which may be of use: http://www.phfactor.net/wtf/Bulova and Caravelle/Bulova 11ANAC, D, B.pdf. The part reference in this document you're interested in is '4 F'. Read for instance the 'Train side' instructions on page 3 which refers to it.
  15. Your very good close up photos indicate this is definitely a hairspring issue causing the running fast problem as @nickelsilver says. A hairspring should form a nice concentric circle. If one of the 'circles' touches an adjacent one it has the equivalent effect of shortening the spring and thus make the balance swing faster. This equals your watch running fast. Whilst contamination (e.g. oil or dirt) can cause this, your close ups indicate your hairspring has been damaged in some way. In this case you either have to replace or repair. It's worth attempting the latter but you'll need to be delicate and patient. Mark has done a good video at: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=idO5elKgFMA.
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