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WatchMaker

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WatchMaker last won the day on October 1 2019

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  1. For what it's worth it looks similar to the AS 490 you'll find towards the bottom of this page: https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/movements.php (???).
  2. Hi @jwa - the hole sizes and hand lengths are really the two main factors you have to consider. The 2834-2 has 1.50, 0.90 and 0.25 holes for the hands ... and that will be standard across ETA movement IDs you're likely to come across for hands e.g. models 2824, 2834, 2783, 2893 etc. Your 2834-2 is a 13''' sized movement (29mm diameter) whereas most movements are 11.5''' (25.6mm). Your watch however isn't any larger than 'normal' but still just worth checking the length of hands in case the ones you're looking at were designed for a smaller overall dial/watch and would look odd. Apart from that pretty straightforward. Word or warning though: be super duper extra careful when removing hands if you've never done it before. Some form of dial protection is a must otherwise one slip and a scratch you'll never stop seeing.
  3. Hi @Mazboy Case screws are usually considered generic i.e. you don't need to try and find 'movement specific' screws. If you have one of the two screws then take a look at, say, https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/screws-wristwatch-movement and the 'Case Screws' sections to find a match. If you're doing this as hobby on a budget then consider the 'All Kinds Mixed Screws' option instead. Usually a selection of case screws are included and it means you have a host of other spare screws in your arsenal for the future. I obviously can't predict what will be included in a selection though so take this gamble at your own risk!
  4. Do you have the original mainspring to measure? The reason I ask is that you've been supplied a 1.00 x .12 x 300 x 9.5 whilst ranfft says you should have a 1.00 x .11 x 260 x 9.0 So is a GR2453 more appropriate than a GR2467 if ranfft is correct?
  5. Sometimes the only way to get parts is to get a donor movement. If dealing with older watches especially (and your movement dates from 60's/70's) then the simple fact is that suppliers don't have the parts lying on their shelves. And when it comes to things as simple / generic as a spring you're even less likely to get a specific match. But let's take your particular case. I would have first looked at the ever helpful ranfft and seeing the Bulova 11DP is based on the Citizen 0241 concentrated on family/generations. You'll know that typically movements in the same family share common parts. Let's go with an 0201 and look at Citizen Movements Parts at CousinsUK. Ah-ha ... a match! And a setting lever spring (assume that's the part you're after) marked as obsolete. But at least we have a part number of 077.05. Look on ebay for 'citizen 077.05' and there's a match ... but given the expense for a little spring we're back round to those donor movements or see if you can use/adapt a spring from another movement.
  6. You can certainly get more curvy curved spring bars to provide better clearance: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/curved-0180mm-8mm-to-26mm-iso-swiss
  7. LOL! That's a whole separate thread we could start for a rant-a-thon! But there are enough people out there prepared to pay big bucks for something different. Was reading an interesting article on the trend for watch customisations. If you really fancy venting your spleen check out https://www.brownsfashion.com/uk/shopping/man/mad-paris
  8. @HighMans - also check out the Franck Muller 'Crazy Hours' watch!
  9. Penetrating oil isn't going to affect the adhesive and I'd be wary of sloshing fluid around in general anyway ... if any of it gets beyond the ring and mars the dial you're going to be kicking yourself. I can only repeat the advice I've already given. Have you tried this? It's probable a few dabs of superglue were used; it's strong but a shearing force will normally break the bond. Applying upwards force at the gap in the ring should start a break and you continue from there. You won't damage the movement if you're careful but if you're concerned then, as already suggested, you can (part) diassemble ... something you'll be doing anyway since we assume the purpose of your quest is for a service.
  10. You're probably unlikely to be able to pick up an individual part like this. Like a lot of us, for spares you'll have to keep your eye out on somewhere regularly like ebay for a scrap movement you can cannibalise. Or if you really like the watch your movement goes into then invest in a complete NOS movement e.g. https://www.watchesulike.com/en/bulova/14106-bulova-caliber-2623-10-movement.html The alternative if you simply like the watch for its case and dial and aren't precious about the movement having association with Bulova is to pick up an inexpensive quartz alternative.
  11. For sure that movement ring should come out. I wonder if someone glued it in position if it's that stuck?! I'd try and find something metal and strong with an 'L' shape and a short lower limb of the 'L'. Almost like a very small right angled allen key but where you've chopped the lower 'L' limb down to about 5mm or so. Hook this under the movement ring at the gap the stem enters and apply even upward force.
  12. There's nothing to suggest anything about this is a forgery. You might have already come across this in your research: https://watchcharts.com/listing/599135 Same era, same font around edges etc.
  13. Ah ... so it's actually an AS 1172 as it has a sweep hand rather than a sub-second hand. Same movement in the main as the 1171 though. The dial looks amazingly fresh ... the first thing that stands out is that the Piaget Automatic script looks a lot fresher than it has any right to on a 75 year old watch! But it could just be that Piaget used good quality materials and that, based on the good condition overall, this watch has only been used on special occasions and kept in a dry dark place normally that preserved the dial. Nice watch.
  14. Out of interest what condition is the dial in given the age of the watch? The case, at least from the back, looks to be pretty tidy. BTW this is a good set of pics relating to a service of an AS 1171 you might be interested in: https://watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/library?action=show_photos&wat_id=3006
  15. That appears to be an AS 1171 which would fit with the your dating i.e. produced up to about the mid-1940s. Looking at Ranfft does gives production for the 1171 spanning 1935 to 1945 whilst for the 1250 it's 1940 to 1953. If you've seen similar watches to yours sporting the latter it would indicate yours is an early model that used the earlier movement.
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