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WatchMaker

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WatchMaker last won the day on October 1 2019

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  1. Hi @Robbie010. No. This looks like a watch from the 1950s. Lapanouse had a brand called Rego which I've mentioned above. In the 1950s the Cimier brand came into being from this manufacturer. Could the 'CIR' logo on the dial be shorthand for Cimier? I don't know but irrespective of that it looks too similar to the range of inexpensive pin lever escapement watches produced in the 50's by this brand or similar. Look for instance at the 'Telemetre' watches halfway down this page: http://www.mcbroom.biz/forum/read.php?5,2931 . Such watches were made to look like more expensive proper chro
  2. That does look like an N and an E plus Co ... so New England (Watch) Co.? But then there's this ... https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/profile/pocketwatch101/collection/view/107978 Look familiar?! So here the CW aspect on the movement is being interpreted as Columbus Watches ...?
  3. No. These are super simple. Probably a Rego 143 or similar. The pusher literally just stops/frees the balance wheel.
  4. Hi @easj369- if you'd already worked out that C&W Mfg is 'Courvoisier & Wilcox Manufacturing' who were case makers and are after information about the movement (?) ... it's worth posting actual picks of the movement dial and workings/bridge side.
  5. Okay so the good news @aoleite is the watch works in that it ticks away if you can get enough power to the mainspring. You're having to apply this winding power via the automatic mech though because the whole expected interaction via the crown is screwy; winding, date etc. This means some part within the 'keyless works' has been damaged. The attached image is for your movement and what's called the 'setting lever spring' is a weak part on these so may be the culprit. That's the large part at the top in the pic and specifically the weak spot is the thin piece of the part running nor
  6. I've found you a page from Sternkreuz as below explaining the shapes. I'd say you've been going down the wrong route if you're pursuing FT (=barrel). I said FE above because from your initial pictures and explanation things looks more elliptical. BUT out of interest I took a copy of the now clearer aerial view of your case and superimposed a perfect circle on it... And this does seem to be a circular aperture apart from those slightly flattened 12 and 6 o'clock positions. But nothing extreme on the face of it. I know you've been pursuing a flanged crystal as presumably that
  7. When I've dealt with a watch like this I used one of my silicone case back presses. Put one that will fit in the hole in the ring on your workbench and then put the case/glass on top (obviously making sure the silicone press is not actually touching the ring). Using the thumb and forefinger of both hands on the metal lugs push down vertically and the crystal will pop out. You probably could just use a thumb directly on the glass but the aforementioned method will give more control as you feel it start to release. It is possible to use an airbrush to disguise blemishes but you're into a wo
  8. So the 'F' is 'formproof' ... the flange-with-a-raised-shape you describe. The shape then being rectangular, bale, elliptical etc. hence FR, FB, FE. Your need description is of the FE range from Sternkreuz. Sternkreuz's own website is a bit clunky but Cousins comes to the rescue with: https://www.cousinsuk.com/PDF/products/4709_FE205418_R19Smaller.pdf The bit I'm not getting though is if I zoom in on your parts tray, that old crystal looks round as does the case aperture. Certainly nothing like the extreme of the crystal you're holding or the 229x192 you mention. Optical illusion or
  9. Hi @Domovoy - presumably your watch didn't go in totally pristine and come out battered? I assume most of this is normal wear-and-tear? If not and you feel all this is really something the watch repairer did then you should make a complaint. As a professional company they have a duty of care. If for whatever reason this is not a route you want to take then you really only have two options: 1. Keep a look out on a site like ebay for a similar watch to yours to take the bezel from (or even swap your whole movement into). 2. Polish out the imperfections on yours. For 2 do you
  10. Hi again @aoleite Whilst there is a general standardisation that manufacturer and a model indication appears under the balance, the latter aspect varies depending on the whim of the manufacturer. Here is the ID from a 1902: As you can see it has the same 1902/03 you see. My guess in your case is that the addition of a day came sometime down the road and with a large stock of existing general 1902/03 plates AS just added a 1906 stamp underneath to indicate the specific model. That is your model i.e. you specifically have a 1906 but this is based on the 1902 (as is the 1903).
  11. The information on ranfft says the stem reference should refer to Flume. Agreed though that if W3246 can't be 'translated' to something you can place an order for that still leaves you with a problem. Perhaps another tip that sometimes comes in useful is to do a google image search / ebay search for the stem you're after and look for a Ronda packet image. I've just done that and see that we're dealing with a 1775 as per attached image. Here's the funny thing though ... now go to the windingstems site I know you've already tried using. Plug in 'Seach all brands' and 1775 for the Ron
  12. Hi @aoleite. I'm conscious I'm in danger of just repeating what Joe has already said but noting you're a newcomer let me expand a bit on Joe's information: - Watches usually come in 'families'. So a watch movement will typically have a base model. Additions - auto wind mechanism, day, date and so forth give rise to different model numbers in that family. But typically they are building on a base. - In terms of finding useful information on a movement, and that family information, then the ranfft.de website is a goldmine! - Here's the information for your movement as an example: ht
  13. Based on the AS observation from Nucejoe then you're probably actually looking at an AS (A Schild) 1906 (you've read 1908) which is in the same family as the 2066. Parts missing? Mmm. Wouldn't necessarily be taking that as fact.
  14. Unfortunately that's what we've noted ... but the 11AOACB is an automatic with that dreaded word 'obsolete' against the GR2653X. Don't we all hate it when that happens?! Actually @transporter ... here's a funny thing. The 11AOACD is the same as the 'B' right ... apart from it not having the day indicator? Since we're citing Cousins, punch in the 11AOACD to the Bulova parts search and they detail the GR2637X I noted previously as the suggested alternative to the obsolete GR2653X! Happy days.
  15. Also consider the GR2637X at 1.10 x .11 x 360 x 10
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