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WatchMaker last won the day on October 1 2019

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  1. The 255.462 seems to be the 255.461 just with minor modifications (which it's unlikely included the clip!). Here's an example of the 461's clip: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PARTI-VARIE-ETA-PARTS-9702-PV-PAG-1-ETA-255-461/223639803696 You can also pick up from somewhere like Cousins (their item ID = ETA2554619702). Don't we all just love fiddly springs and clips that can disappear without trace!
  2. The tech information for this movement is available at https://www.cousinsuk.com/PDF/categories/16_ETA2895.2.pdf If you open and search for '5110' (the part it seems you're after) you'll see this is derived from / interchangeable with the 2892A2.
  3. Ah - my misunderstanding! Thanks for clarifying that; I'll see what happens!
  4. Thanks @jdm And re. your suggestion about fitting a normal movement ... I'm not precious about a kinetic but the case has an ancillary button at the 2 o'clock position which apparently activates a power reserve indicator. It would seem wrong then to have a button that did nothing by fitting a standard movement. But it's got me thinking... ...are there movements with a complication that could be activated by a single button?! I can't think of any but you guys might know of something!
  5. Thanks @watchweasol - I appreciate you looking into this for me. LOL - I think my trepidation is just because I haven't dealt with one of these before and, gulp, it's got electronic stuff in there!
  6. Thanks for the help and suggestions. I'm pretty self-sufficent when it comes to mechanical movements but a Seiko kinetic is a new one on me! The case and strap on this watch are titanium and from the front this looks like a great watch - dial unmarked; date and hands move etc. But this is the reality inside! ... It's looking pretty rusted up in there and the rotor doesn't even turn so I've automatically jumped to the conclusion that a replacement movement is the way to go! The '5M22A' is the identifier I mentioned on the movement; there's a '342391' on the case back. Hi @watchweasol - if your superior reference skills can locate an alternative that would be great! Thanks @rogart63 that is a very generous offer. If there's not an alternative movement then I'd like to take you up on this! There's nothing on ebay 5M22 related apart from buying a complete watch! Is the 'service and rebuild' you mention something realistic? I'm a good engineer in general and more specifically have serviced and repaired lots of mechnical watches but quartz and kinetic ... yikes!
  7. I am looking at a Seiko Spirit which has the refererence 5M22A on the movement. This watch has seen water ingress at some stage and the movement is badly corroded and beyond saving (although case and dial etc. are fine). I've looked to see if i can find a 5M22A on somewhere like ebay but no luck. There do seem to be other '5M22' references though e.g. with suffixes like 7B30, 6C30 etc. I usually only work on (Swiss) mechanical movements so am unfamiliar with Seiko nomenclature ... I don't know what these suffixes mean and whether they'd be suitable. So basically can someone point me in the right direction and tell me what Seiko movement references I can look at to see if I can find a replacement for the 5M22A please?
  8. I reckon you're on the money with a previous 'fix' explaining the odd spring. Sounds like this has been a pain and I hope the modified Incabloc works out!
  9. What's odd is that all the pics I've looked at of this watch do have the Trior both sides.
  10. In general you'll either be dealing with an acrylic crystal that's got a tension ring ... or not. Yours seems to be the latter case which takes us here: https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/acrylic-round-domed-watch-glasses I can then tell you that you're after one of the High Dome series crystals i.e. HW or HWS*. These are effectively the same but the latter has a small 'step' around the perimeter. Yours looks like it might be one of these but I can't be totally sure as it could just be reflection in your first pic! Anyway, it's easy enough for you to confirm this with your existing crystal i.e. it will either just come down from the dome in a uniform way (HW) or come down from the dome with a small step (HWS). After accurately measuring the diameter of your crystal you should then get the size that is 0.1mm larger to ensure that, with a claw fitting tool, you maintain a tight fit crystal-to-case. You say your crystal is 31.5mm so you'll need the 31.6mm crystal ... so that's either Cousins item HW316 or HWS316 subect to your confirmation of my comments in the last paragraph. Because these crystals are so inexpensive you'll probably want to go with a new one but @jdm is quite right that polishing can achieve good results and get something with (light) scratches back to looking like new. Polywatch is a good product but some people just use toothpaste! *Although the Sternkreuz catalogues are available for download (e.g. direct or from a site like Cousins) they're still a bit rubbish for certain specific details measurements. I've double-checked with an HW crystal I have in my spares box to confirm it's 4.5mm high!
  11. Yes so it is the 1790 you need. If I take the pic from the ebay seller mentioned and put your broken stem next to it this would seem to confirm this: That reference you've found on ranfft is the Flume number i.e. because Dr. Ranfft is German he uses this company for parts: https://www.flume.de/en/index.html; so it is their part number reference. As mentioned however it is more usual to see the more widely recognised Ronda reference and a company like Cousins lets you buy stems from this number: https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/filter/ronda-stems-by-ronda-number
  12. Stems for watches are usually referred to with a 'Ronda Number' (and not just for Ronda watches like yours!). I believe the Ronda Numbers for your movement are 1848 for the standard wind/setting stem and 1790 for the alarm wind/setting stem. A quick look on ebay gets me this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RL-RAX-RONDA-Watch-Winding-Stem-x1-Part-401-Many-Calibres-CHOOSE-FROM-LIST/153716373246. If you look through the items available you should see a picture of the 1790 stem. Probably then a good idea is to check your standard stem ... if it is indeed different from this stem then the 1790 is more strongly confirmed as the one you want! You can then get from this ebay source or another source @watchweasol has suggested.
  13. Definitely one to call in the clock big gun contributors to ... ...however whilst eating my lunchtime sandwich I thought I'd spend a few minutes looking around and came across this which certainly looks like your case and indicates a thermometer would have once been present: https://www.antiquesnavigator.com/d-1201283/antique-victorian-deskmantel-clock-barometer-thermometer-good-working-order.html. Of course, like yours, no clue on a maker but then I thought I'd take the barometer face design as an angle because that lettering and spacing is pretty distinctive and came across: https://www.tooveys.com/lots/266080/a-late-victorian-aneroid-barometer-with-carved-oak-circular-surround/ . Your pic is a bit fuzzy but the similarity is obviously there with this one ... and interestingly it has "Guaranteed English Make" on it. Now of course whoever put your mantel barometer-clock together originally might have mixed English barometer with European/German clock but if in the unlikely event our forum's big guns are stumped then a search along the lines of victorian english mantel clock movement might be worth a go.
  14. Just a word of caution before you get stuck in ... the finish on dials tends to be very fragile so don't use your new hand remover without some protection in place. You can get pro dial protectors but as a beginner some suitable soft plastic would be fine.
  15. And to add to my comments there of course isn't standardisation. The crown area for water ingress is probably the weakest spot. I have various watches and if we take the ones that aren't waterproof - so they can only say they are water resistant - I have one with a screw down crown; one with a double gasket set-up and another with a single gasket etc. So not all watches are born equal in their water resistance capability ... and the original cost of a watch isn't any guarantee of its superiority in this area as we know from some of the incredulous comments in this thread! Given the cost Cartier are now saying it will take to put everything right after a dip in water I think it is worth @baird1025 making a case. But rather than going to Cartier direct (who aren't ever going to admit a liability) maybe take to an independent to for an assessment report. This might go some way to help even if there was a compromise and an agreement by Cartier to make a discount for the work. Just an idea...?
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