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WatchMaker last won the day on December 6

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About WatchMaker

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  1. WatchMaker

    Breitling Bezel with Rubber...

    This rubber has been vulcanised so should be extremely durable and should need little more than a basic clean with water; perhaps with a small amount of detergent. If the watch has had a hard life and you feel the bezel is looking tired you could restore its shine with a product designed for such rubber such as the 'tyre shine' type products normally used on cars e.g. Meguiars Endurance Tyre Gel or ArmorAll Extreme Tyre Shine Gel.
  2. WatchMaker

    What is this rotor part for?

    Hi @Lc130 - it's always worth looking around the background of a movement and/or the family it comes from. In this case the history behind Universal Time Corporation (UTC) is that it was set-up by Seiko in order to sell unbranded versions of their movements to manufacturers to build their own watches from. Ranfft tells us that a UTC 33 = Seiko 6601B so you can instead search around the latter and its family e.g. 6601A ... https://www.cousinsuk.com/PDF/categories/2862_Seiko 2451,6601A.pdf ; 6602B ... https://www.seikoserviceusa.com/uploads/datasheets/6602B.pdf etc. You get the idea! Good luck!
  3. WatchMaker

    Zenith 2572PC Winder Release Problem

    Cripes the 'Edit' window on this forum is short! To add to my answer on what you need to do I should just make it clear because of your original query that, yes, you have no choice but to remove the circlip if you want to remove the stem! The 2572PC stem has an extra 'notch' in over the 2572 stem for this circlip to secure into and with it in place you cannot remove the stem: Once the circlip has been removed you can use the normal stem removal button to get your stem out!
  4. WatchMaker

    Zenith 2572PC Winder Release Problem

    The pinion you query is the date corrector (part #2544) for the date quickset ... and this has the clip to keep it in place. The shape of the clip means it is actually more commonly referred to as an E circlip as it looks like a rounded E: To remove the circlip you must rotate so the rounded part of it is facing down and you see the two ends facing up towards you. Now with a sturdy pair of tweezers place the tips on each of the circlip ends and push down; the clip will pop off. If you do not have a suitable pair of tweezers you will need to secure the movement whilst you use your hands to push with two small screwdrivers. You don't often see such circlips in watch movements but they are a common securing mechanism in engineering and I know they can be fiddly so just be steady and patient! Reassembly is the reverse where you put the rounded part up towards you and push down so the clips 'snap' back onto the relevant groove. A tool like a spring bar remover (i.e. the tool you remove the bars for a watchstrap with) can be useful here as the notch in the blade will resist slipping better than a screwdriver blade. Hope this helps!
  5. WatchMaker

    Help identifying movement

    Most likely from the AS 1475 family with that distinctive bridge and two crowns: http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&AS_1475
  6. D. Valentine was a watch and jewelry store operating out of a corner store in the White Memorial Building in Syracuse, New York state. They advertised themselves as sellers of American and Swiss watches (which, yes, included being retailers of Patek Philippe pocket watches). As @oldhippy says, if you wanted to get an accurate identification on the movement you'd need to remove the hands and dial so we could get a view of the 'dial side' situation. I suspect however that you're not into working with watches and are more interested to know if you have something of high value if it were a Patek Philippe! On that count I'd say it is highly unlikely ... there are no markings to this effect anywhere on the movement and a high-end maker like P-P would normally have their name engraved somewhere. Now knowing a little about D.Valentine, you're probably realising it's far more likely they've taken a more 'normal' pocket watch to put their name on as a good venture to promote their store.
  7. WatchMaker

    Help identify this watch

    @yankeedog makes a very valid point. With the case and dial being presented together and a seeming fit to the Movado 75 given the dial feet positions mentioned this seemed to tie up. But if the case and dial could just be two items thrown together we could be going down the wrong path here! I guess other points of note on this are i) Movado are (more) famous for their clear and simple dial designs whereas your dial is quite fancy and also b) if you 'google image' Movado watches then in general they didn't usually advertise things about the movement e.g. a jewel count, antimagnetic etc . Something that may be of interest as a sideline for investigation is around watches produced by Technos. I mention this because I have noted that they often produced watches with 'distinct centres' on their dials and the font they often used bears a striking resemblance to your dial (a distinct and angular '4' but smoother '9' and '3' plus a serif on the '7' but not the '1's). Now of course this doesn't mean other makers didn't design distinct centres on their dials or use the same font but I thought it was an interesting observation you'd rather I shared! If so I have also noted that Technos usually used AS (A.Schild) movements so if, from my and @JohnR725 's educated assertion you're dealing with an 11.5''' ligne movement, then perhaps another avenue of investigation is to look at AS 17 jewel movements with a sub second that may match your dial feed positioning...?
  8. WatchMaker

    What Brand movement is this?

    Rotherham & Sons had the trademark of a snake on a crowned staff within a star . Some interesting information at http://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/rotherham.php (where you can see the trademark if you scroll down). See also http://www.horologist.co.uk/rotherham.htm and picture 14 which has similarities to your movement.
  9. WatchMaker

    Help identify this watch

    The style of your dial, and with the sub seconds, probably makes it from around the 1940s / 1950s. First let's assume the ligne size. The often used Movado 125 movement from watches of this era can be excluded because, being a 12.5''' movement (at 28mm+), this would be too large for your case which has an ID of only 28mm. Similarly a 10.5''' ligne movement at 23.7mm (covering a movement such as the Movado 261, again, often used) can realistically be excluded as if your dial feet are 22.5mm apart this would put them perilously close to the edge of the dial to fit such a movement (which I'm assuming they're not)! So I think we're in circa 11.5''' territory for a Movado movement with 17 jewels and sub seconds ... also extremely likely to be manual wind (era of watch and the flat case back). In that case there are few (Movado) movements it could be and almost certainly we're therefore looking at the 75. If you locate an image of the dial side of this type of movement, e.g. from ranfft, it looks like the dial feet positioning holes are in the right place from the description of your dial too. Result?
  10. WatchMaker

    Stem release not working

    Sounds like you've already tried the correct approach but humour me and, pull the stem/crown out to its outer (time changing position). Now applying constant moderate pulling pressure on the crown (perhaps with the thumb and third finger of your right hand) depress the stem release button with a suitable tool held in your left hand. If this doesn't work them remove the movement retaining ring (two screws hold it in place at 12 and just after 6 o'clock positions in your photo) as this will give the movement a little more freedom in case there is unexpected resistance on the stem that is causing an issue; repeat the above. Still no luck? You've little choice but to remove the barrel bridge so you can get an indication of what's going on underneath it and get a glimpse of the stem release button and keyless works. This is straightforward though. You should already have ensured the mainspring is wound down after which this is just a case of taking off the two wheels atop the bridge (crown and ratchet) and the three screws that hold the bridge in place. Now you can remove the bridge and see what's going on: Let us know how you get on!
  11. WatchMaker


    As a P.S. ... It's a frustrating truth about watch repairing that there are small 'commonish' parts that must cost pennies to produce but pounds to replace. Your spring is a good example as, with postage and VAT, it will cost over a tenner to replace! But it's just a super-simple U-shaped spring! Grr! There seems to be a real market out there for a supplier to produce a set of small date jumper, click springs etc. I'd buy them! Cousins do do a set of generic Shepherds Hook Springs (item W36105) but they're all pretty large. It might still be worth adding these to your order as there may be a handful in the selection that could come in useful in the future...
  12. WatchMaker


    Hi Bernie I think the part you need is actually # 2575 i.e. the date jumper spring. Part # 440 (3483) is the yoke spring used in the keyless works. I expect you have the parts document for the 522 already but if not you can download one from here: https://www.cousinsuk.com/PDF/categories/2348_MST 520 512 522 523.pdf If you concur that it's part # 2575 you need then Cousins do one at £5.95 if you search for item number MST5212575.
  13. WatchMaker

    Help identify this watch

    The watch-in-the-hand symbol is a trademark used by Movado. Movado produced their own movements in the main so knowing the internal case size (ligne) and that we have a dial advertising 17 jewels and with sub-seconds should allow you to track down the movement pretty quickly via the ever useful ranfft website. Here's some nice info on Movado: http://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/movado.php P.S. Lovely looking dial!
  14. WatchMaker

    Seagull ST2130 help

    Once you've checked your screwdriver blades to ensure they're square and sharp try this technique for holding the screwdriver when it comes to a stubborn screw... Assuming you're right handed then with your right hand hold near the blade end with your thumb and fourth finger whilst having downwards pressure with your forefinger. This is now a steady 'platform' for seating the screwdriver on the screw and applying appropriate solid downward force too. Now with your left hand twist the screwdriver.
  15. WatchMaker

    AS 2066 - looking for information

    A kind and generous offer of help as you go along, if you need it, from @Nucejoe Perhaps a useful tip if you are working on a particular movement is to reference the ranfft site and be aware of movement IDs within the same family. As you'll see if you look at http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&AS_2066 your AS 2066 comes from a large family! What this means is that if you can't find information on your specific movement ID you might be able to find it for a movement within the same family which will share all the same core components as yours. As a good example if you search for AS 1900 on YouTube you'll see that Mark has done a very comprehensive service, over three videos, of this movement type. Sure your movement has more capability (automatic and day/date) but at its core it will be the same as the AS 1900. My other top tip is that when taking off the date dial guard remove slowly and carefully (perhaps even in a small plastic bag) in case the date jumper spring is not securely in place and wants to make a bid for freedom! That is unless you want to spend an hour trying to find it again somewhere in your room. I speak from hard won experience...!