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Everything posted by HSL

  1. Looks like a project one can have in the que..
  2. Which became an product... http://www.rataspari.com/index.php/products/hairspring-tool
  3. I missed your post with the balancestaffs.com 30T2RG = OME26.5 BS4132 (RONDASTAFFS1856) (A=305) This also has an early inca version BS4133 (RONDASTAFFS4187) (A=305) 30T2PC = OME260 BS4149 (RONDASTAFFS3276) (A=329) and now I see what you mean, here they say you could use the slightly longer version too BS4148 (RONDASTAFFS1858) (A=332) which I'm not so sure of, even if the staff lenght isn't that far off it might affect the movement of the balance wheel since the pressure from the inca block springs would be slightly higher all time and one might not have any endshake at all. I would go with the original lenght of these.
  4. If you look at cousine you will see the balance complete for your movement 30T2PC is the same as for the Omega 260, "Balance Complete ( 1327 ), Omega 260" which is the one they use for the whole range of movements using the same balance cock with incablock shock. There is an 30T2RG too but this one has no shock and therefor use one other balancestaff (RONDASTAFFS1856) and the balance cock here originated from the caliber 26.5. The Omega 260 balance complete is marked obselete on cousine so you have to look at the option to replace the balance staff with the one called "OME2601321" at cousine.. But if you would search the bay sometimes you might find one looking for the other calibers using the same staff.
  5. Hej Igen, Yes there are two different stems on cousine and it is as you say with or without shock. Below I compiled a small list one can use. (OME2601321) OMEGA 260 OMEGA 261 OMEGA 265-266 OMEGA 267 OMEGA 280 OMEGA 283 OMEGA 284 OMEGA 30SCT2 OMEGA 30T2PC OMEGA 30T3 (RONDASTAFFS1856) OMEGA 26.5 OMEGA 26.5T1 OMEGA 26.5T2 OMEGA 26.5T3 OMEGA 262 OMEGA 281 OMEGA 30 OMEGA 30SCT2 OMEGA 30T1 OMEGA 30T2RG
  6. I have totaly missed this post but lets give it a go. Your escape wheel looks dirty but it isn't causing the pattern you see on your timegraph, except from the beat error the pattern looks much like a "sticky hairspring" the phenoma can come from oil or magnetization of the hairspring or a bad end curve on the hairspring. A bad pinion on the escape wheel should show a more slalom like pattern with almost equal up and down humps since it is oscillating. Here you can see a similar but in beat pattern and a quick fix since this time it was caused by old oil. Hope this takes you a bit further.
  7. I took some minutes to look at what spring might fit in your barrel. Looks like the 582 has the same spring as the 584 and then you according to BestFit can use the same spring as the ETA 2820 . As a curiousity the same spring is also used in: ALPINA 584 ETA 2820 ETA 2820R ETA 2822R ETA 2823 ETA 2823R ETA 2828 ETA 2828R ETA 2829 ETA 2829R ETA 2834 ETA 2834R Maybe this information can get you into the right track..
  8. I see I forgott the pratical videos, these are a perfect compliment to watch with your loved ones on a Friday night; just make sure you have enought chips, popcorn and something to lubricate yout throat with ! Instruction Videos, General -------------------------------------------------- Lubrication Control – Part 1 (OSUIT Watchmaking) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eMJiX0MA-Wg Lubrication Control – Part 2 (OSUIT Watchmaking) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rlMW5qMHaNc Cap Jewel (AWCI, live lesson) --------------------------------------------- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOKWMQ7di-M Barrel Wall on Automaic (perplxr) ------------------------------------------------------- Auto oiler ------------------------------------------------------------- Bergeon Automatic Oiler 1A (The one and only VWatchie) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEQ83E4E8ik&feature=youtu.be
  9. Since lubrication technics and material seems to be a frequent returning subject I thought one could collect some links and pdf files on the subject in ONE Place so it is easy to find them. Here comes my contribution in this link Collection. Moebius ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Home (list of lubricants) http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/oils New (Just a lubrication chart) http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/sites/default/themes/moebius/extras/pdf/tableEN.pdf Old (Moebius sales program, more detailed information) Moebius Sales program.pdf British Horological Intitute (BHI) ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.nawcc-index.net/Articles/BTI-The_Practical_Lubrication_of_Clocks_and_Watches.pdf American Watchmakers - Clockmakers Institute (AWCI, Nice and detailed pictures.) --------------------------------------------------- Train Jewel Lubrication https://www.awci.com/watchmaking-excellen/applying-oil-to-train-jewels/ Cap Jewel https://www.awci.com/watchmaking-excellen/cap-jewel-preparation/ Pallet Fork https://www.awci.com/watchmaking-excellen/lubrication/
  10. I guess you bought this set as a kit with the parts indicating they are fitting together so before buying even more new parts try some moves mentioned below. When one compare your movement Pictures with mine the parts looks ok. The distances between the cannon pinion and hour Wheel is normal. The symtoms seen in your Pictures strongly indicate you just might have made some common misstakes, investigating and correcting these might get you in the right track again. 1. You forgott the dial washer on the hour Wheel which probably makes it fall out of Place; lift slightly upwards, Always use a dial washer. 2. The dial isn't pushed far enough down so it hovers a bit above the dial support. 3. The dial support is slightly bent; the nick in the bend is resulting in wrong distance between the dial and movement. the dial support has to be totaly level to the movement. 4. The dial is thicker than recommended for a H1 setup. The obvious thing is the distance of the hour hand as stated before so that too has to be fixed. I strongly recommend to use hand setting Tools since these have holes fitting the different tubes. To set a hour hand the hole most be big enough to pass through the minute tube but not the hour tube, and so on. It's probably hard for a novice to imagine how the distances should be but looking at a Picture mostly helps, so when using these Tools you will get the following result. As you see if the hand is straight you automaticaly get the correct distance to the dial. You just repeat the process with the minute hand. (sorry for the shitty Picture, but one still can see the result). A straight minute hand will fitt snuggely to the hour hand. A slightly bent will as i earlier said attache to the hour hand when setting the time. I have earlier made an Quick and Dirty tutorial but without any theories which you can take a look in maybe there are some answers to your questions in that one, it is by far any ultimate solution but might help you on your way.
  11. Well I have worked with a whole bunch with movements were the setting of the hour and minute as I discribe in the text is direct driven by the setting wheel and the minute wheel, below is an example. When the watch is in normal mode the drive gear is run by the drive train and the drive train is powered by the barrel. So since my native language isn't English I make a small guide explaining what I tried to communicate with that sentence how the time is set with the watch in "setting mode" not normal drive mode. I dont have a watch for service right now but lets pop a fresh one. In the bag we find "the kit" with the dial ring, hour wheel and an extra winding stem. We look at the movement put in a movement holder. On the 2824-2 we can see .. 1. The cannon pinion with integrated drive gear. 2. The minute wheel. In normal conditions the drive gear is moving the cannon pinion and the minute wheel, but in "setting mode" the setting wheel is drivig the minute wheel and the cannon pinion. Here we can see the.. 1. Hour wheel 2. The small pinion on the minute wheel driving the hour wheel. 1. The whole setup when the 2824-2 is in the setting mode. 1. The hour wheel conected to the.. 2. Minute wheel conected to the.. 3. Setting wheel. And to me the lenght of the "minute pinion" loooks OK for this type of movement. This is how much a H1 cannon pinion sticks out from the hour wheel pretty much what one can see on mcoultons last picture. So my theory still is the hands were wrongly attached or of the wrong type of hands, but who knows.
  12. Just as VWatchie has noted, without Pictures it is impossible to know. But lets try anyhow 1.) First of all the cannon pinion pivot is your minute hand position, it is mostly driven by the minute Wheel, ontop of the minute Wheel is a small pinion driving the hour Wheel (small gears are called pinions and the larger ones are Wheels), so when you pull the Winding stem out the minute Wheel is engaged by the setting Wheel and both the cannon pinion and hour Wheel is turned by the minute wheel, nothing special with that since one wants to set both hour and minute. It's only the ratio between the Wheels and pinions that set what rate the hands are turned in. But sometimes one have pushed the minute hand too Deep so you don't have any space between the hour and minute hand or the minute hand is slightly bent. In that case both the hour and minute hand moves simulaniously at the same rate, the hour hand is just friction fitted after all, this is not a good state and is solved by lifting the minute hand up a bit with hand levers (after put somthing on the dial to protect it from scratching) or taking the second hand and the minute hand off and gently straighten the minute hand. 2.) Impossible to say right now since we dont know any meassurements of the hand hole diameters nor what movement they are to be attached too.
  13. That is a nice movement you have there, you could Always send a request to Longines and they will come back to you with the information you need. If you send them your serialnumber on the movement and the serialnumber in the pocket Watch case you even get where it was sold and if the case is correct. To recieve an certificate , a written paper COSTs but an e-mail answer is for free. https://www.longines.com/certificate-of-authenticity But if you are in a hurry I would take a guess that your movement is from around 1897-1898 and the caliber is probably an 18.5.
  14. The beauty with escapements is the fact there has been so many different solutions throughout time, take for example the escapement in a pin-lever, sometimes you have them setup like a super duper co-axial speed racer. So in this case one really can't tell what it is or how it is configured until he posts Pictures of the complete movement, before strip or at least Pictures of the escape Wheel and fork.
  15. This was fun, but looking at the quirky setup and how the bridges are fastened .. are you sure this isn't a Pin - Lever movement?
  16. Here at the doctors site you can see how the keyless looks like when assembled. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Pobjeda
  17. I haven't worked with this ROEDA Watch movement but I Think you have to lift the detent spring to the other side of the pin on the setting lever. I assume there also is somekind of spring too underneath the setting bridge which pushes on the yoke forward.
  18. Looks like it says 672 right on the bridge, so yes Oldhippy is right it is the small plate just infront of the winding stem you take away and underneth the rotor you shold find a gear with a slot in it. These were not very tight in the first place and if the grove in it is worn it becomes even larger play between them. You will find the tech sheet for it here , think you are best of looking at the one for the 670. http://tech.gleaveandco.com/tech-sheets/omega
  19. Sorry I can´t seem to recall a video with this but I'm sure there are one out there. To make adjustments on a hairspring with a fixed stud is a dying art and can be pretty tricky. As i look at the Pictures here the spring and especially the endcurve is not very satisfying, but that is just one of the problems. If you look at the regulator pins they also are in a poor shape both the index pin and the boot seems to be bent to much inwards . As a rule one should keep a space between them like twice the hairspring thickness so the spring can "Breath". Adjusting these after excessive bending been done might easily break them off so be very carefull. To get the collar of there used to be a tool you fitted into the collar slot and then gently turned it around whilst liting upwards. Before this operation were performed you put a dropp of very thin oil on the balance staff just above the collet. I never bought this tool since I learned to do this operation with a small screwdriver. One probably can make one perfectly shaped if one is willing to sacrifice a screwdriveer blade. There are however Tools for lifting it out there like the Bergeon 5430 levers. For tuning and adjusting the collet position Bergeon 30017-TP. When you adjust the collet position you just adjust the beat error and that probably is to be done after fixing the rest. Unfortunately I'm not at home so I could take nice Pictures of the task but maybe I post some later. Before you take it of you might record it's position right now on the balance staff in relation to the impulse pin so one doesn't have to start from scratch to find a good starting position.
  20. Yes it pushes in and pulls out, the final position the studs end up in is dependent of the watch adjustement. If you look in the ETA dictionary found here ( I put it in the recourses) https://www.eta.ch/dictionary/dictionary.html There you can look how the ETAcron studs are working and what adjusts what..
  21. Yups the pictures just shows how it is fastened. Since the topic been handled before I didn't post more. Here is the link to the previous post..
  22. I assume you mean 2892-2 movement like the one I'm just working on in the pictures. (This one was heavily oiled.) Yes the stud is glued into place and are not one of the easiest tasks around. I belive if you orderd a balance complete you will get the balance and the spring with stud already attached. ETA has a special tool to put the spring into place and adjust it with. But with some skills you can do it with flat tiped tweezers too. Not the easiest task.
  23. Today I upgraded one of my watches and therefore got one movement over. So I thought why not try the ETASWISSL@B tutorial and take some photos while doing it, flash is going to be obselete soon anyhow so it might be good to have a PDF version too. I think that without any hesitation we dive into the mysteries of the one and only ETA 2892A2. There are two PDF documents describing the process with some tips and tricks added. ETA 2892A2_Disassemble.pdf ETA 2892A2_Assemble.pdf
  24. There is not very much differing the 6497 or 6498, 6497 has its second at 12 o clock making the second ending up at 9 o clock when put in a case whilst the 6498 has it second at 3 o clock. So which one choose to practice on is of small difference. But when comming to buy a case and dial I would think the 6497 configuration is the most popular since a very popular watch is using it and you find brands like "PARNIS" fitting the movement . To give a hint of which original brand it could emulate I give an extended listing below. ------------------------------------------ 6497 (-1, -2) ----------------------------------------- Alpina AL-435 (-1) Alpina AL-650 (-1) Chronoswiss C692 (-1) Dornblüth 99.2 (-1) Maurice Lacroix ML-16 (-1) Maurice Lacroix ML-1 - (-1) Maurice Lacroix ML-100 (-1) Panerai OP XXI (-1) Omega 960 Panerai OP I (-2) Panerai OP II (-2) Panerai OP X (-2) Panerai OP XI (-2) Rado RHW1 (-2) ------------------------------------------ 6498 (-1, -2) ------------------------------------------ Dugena 3913 Longines L512 (-2) Maurice Lacroix ML-76 (-1) Sinn SZ04 (-1) TAG Heuer Calibre 1 (-1) Zenith 126 Zenith 40 ---------------------------------------------
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