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Everything posted by HSL

  1. It isn’t always the monetary value in a watch that makes or breaks what one does with the watch. I have quite enjoyed working on plenty of German PUW powered watches just out of the pleasure of maybe seeing some “new” technical solutions they tried to introduced on them. I can’t deny it’s been great fun. That’s why in quiet I nowadays admire Andy Hulls enthusiasm with his 404 club, just great fun.
  2. I think he means the crown wheel on the barrel bridge (105), at least it is what it says in the text. The ratchet wheel comes on the barrel arbor, hence the square hole. But one never knows, just in case I put a picture of a PUW 500 I found in the scrap box, seems an over enthusiastic German watch repairer put a PUW tag on the bridge...
  3. If you have the 17 Jewel you have the right oscillating weight. Since ETA took over the production they had the old equipment and drawings too. So, just looking at your oscillating weight you can see it is missing the shallow groove for the locking shim which is on the 25 jewel one. The 17 jewel version of the 7750 is the one to the right in my picture. The pressfitt bearing is like 2 tens of a milimeter smaller in diameter. Easiest way to determine if you got the right bearing is to meassure the hole you got on the oscillating weight and on the small flange on the bearing. If you look
  4. Yes they might be even totaly different in construction. I took a picture so you easier can see what I mean. Newer ETA 7750 is locked in place by a shim and need a special tool. Old Valjoux 7750 is press fitted. These boths systems have different diameters on the bearing hole on the oscillating weight too. So the Valjoux is smaller and will not stay in the newer oscillators hole. The ETA has a larger diameter and will not go into the Valjoux ocillators hole. Hope this helps.
  5. I agrre with nickelsilver, I assumem you looked at Cousine where GR4502 is obsolete. The base caliber for this one is AS1194 and they seeme to share the same spring . So, if you are in no hurry you could find them on the bay too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/AS-1194-watch-part-mainspring-770-x1-white-alloy/174379073715?hash=item2899cd80b3:g:eRQAAOSwAPxcYk3f
  6. Would have been a good idea but it looks like one of the pivots are broken too.
  7. The chances to break it is greater since the "Claws" of the ordinary crystal lift will not spread the tension in the same way as if you used something that sqeezes over a bigger area. There are more universal tools out there but the price usually is higher but they are also better. On this site you can see two other usefull tools , the air pump (will mosty not work on crystals with tension ring) and the Crystal wrench. The crystal wrench is the tool of choise for these jobbs. http://thewatchspotblog.com/?p=2495
  8. I did only have the service sheet for the AS 5008. This technical documentation will be of great help when servicng a watch like this, I took a look at the usuall places like Cousines for documents and they only had some strange version of the tech sheet. This is not a watch for a beginner to start with but for future use and if someone else is interrested I upload the HSL edition of the sheets AS 5008 HSL EDITION.pdf
  9. Caravelle digital.. If you can open the back on the watch one can see what base movement it is. Usually there is a PUW 561D or a PUW 1561D under the hood. If you look at the bay you should find an abundance of stems and crowns for these calibers. I have previously made a small walkthrough with the 1561D, the 561D isn't much different.
  10. The two tools has the same function, the Tissot tool just sqeezes the crystal with three bacelite blocks.
  11. The tube on the PUW 500 where the crown wheel is fastened is so flimsy so probably there isn't any good fix for this problem more than replace the bridge. There is a similar one as yours on the bay for parts. (https://www.ebay.com/itm/PUW-500-watch-vintage-mechanical-movement-parts-or-repair/114410464379)
  12. Hello and welcome Dubey, I notice you made a shortcut right to this section. Usually one make a short introduction of one self in the "Introduce your self here" forum. Just so people get to know you and give you a warm welcome . But here you are, it is hard to say with the watch dangling like that. But this one I think has an La Jaux Perret 5900 movement pushing the watch hands, and that movement is based on the AS 5008. From the picture one can see the alarm hasn’t been wound since the click isn’t engaged on it. One can’t see the ratchet wheel for the main spring, it's behind the osc
  13. Well on this one we only can see the actuall brand mark JC, the reason one want to see the dial and back is the old books just goes by black and white pictures of them. Here you can see the brand for Cupillard from one of these books.
  14. And flipping around in the antient books shows the maker with a high probability is Cupillard.
  15. I would guess the 1194 is the serial number and the maker is JC. Early Cortebert had a stamp JC but not looking like that, maybe an 30's art deco.. One need to see the dial and back side to pinpoint the manufacturer.
  16. This is a very difficult question, but the “national watch” back in the days would have been a watch branded “Leijona”. The watch was originally an ebauche from Switzerland, now days it’s not. But that watch on the picture seems to be with the authentic look on wristband and everything but looks very German, like a Stowa Ancre or something like that just looking on the hands and dial.
  17. Yes all these 28X has a close likness since they are based on the same movement. Your movement is 16"' (Ligne) in size. To convert this to millimeters one has to divide the ligne meassurement with the magic number 0.44326241134752. So, 16 / 0.44326241134752 = 36.096 mm. So it should actually be a bit over 36mm when you meassure it. Then we have the UNI-COMPAX, COMPAX and TRI-COMPAX, here it is probably easier to see a picture of the differences on the dial side. Hope this helps.
  18. It's friday night over here and what is better than having an small party with wine, chips and a small check. Just because it is ticking it might not be ready to be adjusted. Since this question is freqently occuring in different shapes I will just make a small guide which can help you decide if you done the minimal checks. Maybe it will avoid this beeing an 50 + page post There are some initial checks one can do while servicing a watch after the repair, here I use a ETA 2824-2 as an example. First of all, I assume you cleaned the movement properly. After and before cleaning alw
  19. Uj! As you say something has happened here. The most probably will be OK by a gentle good cleaning. The minute jumper is intact so that is a bonus, a very brittle part which always is in demand. So when looking for parts one probably has to look for parts to its base caliber which probably are a Universal Geneve 285. The Zenith calibers in this series is quite easy to identify they are called like Caliber 136 = 13 ligne = Universal Geneve 383 (Base caliber 286) Caliber 146 = 14 ligne = Universal Geneve 385 (Base caliber 285) Caliber 156 = 15 ligne = Universal Geneve 387 (Ba
  20. I would think that actually is a Zenith (136)/Martel 16"' movement behind that dial. Not the movement one walk on every day, be very careful with that one. It is branded Zenith but you will find the Compax to be an Universal movement. Do you have the original case for it too, if yes this watch is a keeper for sure. Take a picture of the back too so the ones like me get a treat..... Be very very careful with it or you break my heart!
  21. Interesting reading, my rambling will not be long, as I think @margolisd is a bright man who has ambitions to learn and take his knowledge to the next level and therefore asks for advice from a diverse group like this. I don’t see any problems in people wanting to learn and experiment a bit maybe he could tweak it to an amplitude above the normal. I couldn’t agree more the most mass-produced watches leaves the factory with “good enough” specs standard Seiko’s is no exception, maybe more the norm, that is it keeps time within the given specifications and nothing more. It’s the same as with a
  22. Think that is a great start. One easily forgett to check jewels and pivots. And you shouldn't do anything to the pallet jewels until fixing the jewel. That is just what I to do nowdays, technology sure makes it easier some times but then it comes down to the fingertips in the realization..
  23. No Corel CAD 2019, nice when you want to do something quick and dirty, think this example was something on how to design escapements from a BHI course.
  24. Now I tried to "adjust" them for you it should be something like this. Almost the whole "chamfered" part of the club is locking the pallet at an equal depth at both entry and exit pallet. . The pictures are not good but I have made some cad drawings once upon a time from them you can get a feeling of how it should look like.
  25. Just looking at the pictures your analyses are spot on, at a closer look the entry and exit seems to also differ in depth these should also be equal in depth. If their not you get exactly as you say loss in amplitude.
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