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Everything posted by HSL

  1. Those in the picture above is the hardcore ones no collar..
  2. Vintage hairsprings is probably the largest headache since most of the old knowledge has been forgotten when the modern watchmaker begun to buy balance complete with already matched spings and balances. The balance on these are laser adjusted. On the packages of the vintage springs there often are the markings Gr and Fce learning what they stand for would help people like me with less knowledge to choose the correct spring to vibrate faster. Was there any standardized system for this type of marking?
  3. Ah ok thank you for the answer. I found a 1223-21 in my treasure chest but no 8800 this far.
  4. Just out of interesst, what does that second crown do? I've seen some Newarks with a similar solution but they had a Ronda 1223 in them and the second crown wound the alarm. But is there an alarm on the 88XX?
  5. Well I was actually about to compare two cameras just to show how much improvement one can get with a good lighting but for some reason I just can't find the second camera a much cheaper SONY A37Y with macro lens too but for a fraction of the price. Guess I will not do that after all
  6. There were a couple of them and with different cases, the one in the Picture comes from a Tissot Seastar (9kt gold case) and there were some earlie Tissot 1853 with the same movement. It should say which one you have on the dial.
  7. I test linking to uploaded ones.. And here is the one you previoulsy only could see only a part of so one can zoom in quite a bit ;) ...
  8. I agree with this, a good lighting makes wounders. Usually when I post here I take a quick picture with my phone and the 21Mp is quite fair and the files are small enough to upload. But a camera, correct lighting and a macro is what it takes to do some good movement por*. This pictures is just a part of a picture since I can't upload the complete one (Camera is a Sony A7R II 42,4 Mp so the files becomes large) but one gets what the difference in ligting do compared to my phone ones, this is just a part of the picture, it is just over 800k large! (or small).....
  9. If it's just the part number you want I Think this is it. 065-507 (J810M CITIZEN STEM )
  10. I think there would be several possibilities to make a device like that to work. This sunday I got an hour to myself from my other household duties so I sat down and thought things throug. Eldery devices use a finely tuned spring and balance to compare the oscillation against, when the two balances are in sync you make a reading towards a scale. But modern equipment probably need something else to detect the spokes on a balance, since it's rotating on its pivot I don't think you could use sound to determine the oscillation. One probly wouldn't want to touch anything on the setup so two methodes comes into mind: 1. Use a Hall sensor. 2. Use light sensitive electronics. I think a hallsensor would work really good but I don't know how small thiny hairsprings would react to an electric field so I will go for a light sensitive sensor. Just out of chance I pulled out a TCRT5000 Reflective Infrared Sensor out of my Arduino toybox and made a preliminary test. I sometimes design high speed odometers for autonomous vehicles so this was a different challenge, to get a device which detect low frequencie movements. A hairspring in some cases oscillate at 18000 A/h which is a frequency off (18000/3600) 5Hz. The setup was able to detect even lower frequencies so I don't Think the Electronics will be the challenge but the design of the sensor setup might take an hour or two. I plan to use a non polarizing glas from a microscope on which the balance can spin freely. I only took 20 minutes this time to prove the concept and it will probaly work like a charm so this is something I will put into the projects que for fun things to do with your 3-D printer a dark Nordic Winter night.
  11. What can one say cool projects!
  12. This I think is a cool thing to learn from but will not be enough to analyze the components in the oil, we use Raman spectroscopy at work to do this task. Maybe when the dark winter sneaks on I can run some samples to see what result one can get.
  13. The most mechanical watches has either a screw you loosen to release the stem or you push on a pin directly attached to the setting lever. In this case there could be both so I had to look it up and the database says it has a set lever screw. ZOD 76-75B 5443/1233 5443/ZOD 70 SET LEVER SCREW Sometimes when they have a pushpin and the wear and tear together with rubberized oil makes it somewhat harder to get it pushed in far enough, then one gets a bit tempted to push a bit harder and voila' one have pushed it to far and the setting lever makes one unexpected liftoff. Mostly you recover from this since you had to service the movement anyhow. Even the screws sometimes is a bit tricky but if one just gently push down at the same time one unwinds it the lever should be pushed down and release the stem. The "Magic hole trick" usually can be found working on cheaper quartz movements where the lever is directly jointed with a plate,
  14. On the Zodiac 76 you should have a set lever screw, turn it slighly while pulling the stem out should do the trick.
  15. Just as a fun fact in the same theme, there was a bunch of cases roaming around for a while. I'm sure they are contemorary WW2 stuff but probably never used. I've seen these NOS cases with Helvetia 800C movements in them. I guess they seem to be more accepted these days but is it a genuine WW2 watch? Can one just pop in a movement in them and say they just made a restauration, after all the cases doesn't meet any specs setup as a military watch. Maybe they needed a coctail watch for nicer receptions?
  16. If you look in the book "German Military Timepieces of World War II Volume 3 German Army/Waffen-SS" by Ulric of England and on Page 33 you can see how a genuine should look like, Helvetia made a similar watch before like in the early 30's and after the war so they became popular to sell from countries like Ukraine where they just popped in a Helvetia caliber 82A or similar in a fake case. Germans are known for their efficiency and during a raging war they wouldn´t care to engrave the movement with the amount of jewels and so on the barrels and thats why the most confirmed genuine are just blank inside with just 82A stamped on the side; while one from the 30's would have some text and even some serial numbers on the train bridge. All the casebacks in the book has the 3190 engraved in them and so do the fakes, but the most genuine has a CB mark stamped on the inside. The things to be aware of here is the serial number on the trainbridge, looks like a 6-9 number serial, what you would expect on a pre war (81-24) movement. The movement mostly provided during the WW2 was the 82A-24. On this specimen you also can see the text General Watch Co , Helvetia's parent company on the movement which I think never occures on the real deal. The D 15004 H looks a bit familiar to a case I bought from the bay in 2017 just for reseach purposes, think the serial was D 15009 H or something like that. But who knows progress in identifying these gems might have progressed but I wold want to see the inside of the back and a better closeup of the movement before buying it.
  17. Såja, riktigt fina bilder! Now you can relax and enjoy a Gin & Tonic...
  18. I see Nickelsilver alredy answered on your post but here we go with some alternative theories.. (Harold C Kelly, A Practical Course in Horology,2013) Let us calculate the thickness of the spring first. Calculating n= b/c n=104/10 gives us the ratio of how many turns the centre wheel moves on one rotation of the Barrel. n = 10.4. Next we calculate the supposed runtime. 4 Jours (4 days) = 4*24 = 96 Hours. Calculate how many turns to wind your spring. 96/10.4 = 9.23 Your barrel inner diameter is 30.3 mm we divide this with 12.5 which gives us a parameter value of 2.424 Next we calculate the thicknessof the spring. 2.424 / 9.23 = 0,262 The ratio I usually use is that the arbour covers one third of the space and one half of the remaining area is covered by the spring. Putting this into the online calculator says your "Length should be between 999 and 1249", it is using the general formula. SpringLenght = ((BarrelInnerRadius^2 * π) - (ArbourRadius^2 * π))/ (2* SpringThickness) = 1249,4 mm The 80% is what they call a minimum 1249.4 * 0,8 = 999.52 mm NAWCC and me use: http://www.nawcc-index.net/CalcMainspringLength.php SpringLenght = (1 / (SpringThickness * 2)) * (((π*BarrelInnerDiameter^2)) / 4) - ((π* ArbourDiameter^2)) / 4)) Which is same as the first but using the diameter instead. In the back of my head I have some recommendation of number of turns one should have in the barrel should be around 11 to 13 so I always use 12 turns. (Looking in your barrel it seems to be 12 too.) To calculate the lenght depending on this one can use the formula: SpringLength=π(BarrelInnerDiameter * Turns −Turns^2 * t) The recommendation falls well in place with my humble calculations which give you a mainspring with the dimensions: 2.4 X 0.26 X 1020 Remember the slightest deviation in the number of decimals you use will make an noticable impact in your calculations So even if we calculate slightly different the height of this Mainspring will be a challange. For these 4 day car clocks they usually were 2.4 or 2.5 mm heigh. I'll attache an image so one can see every number collected
  19. As you know the design of the barrel and the mainspring is a crusial factor for the function of the watch. The ratio between the barrel and center pinion must have a definite relationship to the length and strength of the mainspring to perform satisfactorily and run for the desired number of hours. To harden and temper it to a correct strenght might be tricky, I would personally look for a match or a near match and make a new hook on it. I think this might be a fun excersice for the members on this site too so if it isn't a too big effort you might: 1. Count the teeth of the barrel and the center pinion (the small wheel driven by the barrel). 2. Meassure the inside diameter of the barrel. This will give us a chance to calculate the size of the spring and make it easier to find.
  20. To release the stem you loosen the lower one of the two screws by the stem. I attache a service manual to the 72 but unfortunately with the wrong complication but in the 60's the tech sheets didn't always be the best. If you need more help it's better to continue in an other thread. Valjoux 72_88_721.pdf
  21. Guess all of them has the 72 as base, my memory had a twitch but I looked it up and saw it was a 72 with GMT complication. So the most of the manual for the 72 is valid. https://reference.grail-watch.com/?s=Valjoux+72
  22. Not familiar with the 724.. but you find a bunch of manuals here.. like the 72 and 72 C https://www.cousinsuk.com/document/category/valjoux-movement-parts
  23. Me too, but just to play with words then the wheel/pinion is on a stem/staff/arbour and mostly every rotating axis has a pivot as an ending and the place for the second hand is on the second/fourth wheel pivot, just where your arrow is.
  24. Looks like a project one can have in the que..
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