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Everything posted by HSL

  1. Not easy to find parts to those Cartier (Piaget) 212P movements. Nice job filing that part, guess it is what it comes to with these ones.
  2. Ther setting wheel on that EB 8810 is fixed in place with a small pin and is very hard to remove, just leave it in place and lubricate it with a small oiler after cleaning. They did stuff like this in the 60's just to simplify production and cut costs.
  3. That is actually the correct amount when the oil has expanded by the capilary forces, so when you inspect the jewel assembled and ready it should have spread to that extent. There is some good advice in the AWCI pages, they show a nice picture of this effect. (And many others with good illustrations) https://www.awci.com/watchmaking-excellen/cap-jewel-preparation/
  4. Must say that generic spring doesn't look right, but it probably will do the part. Since the setting lever spring already looks like it been almost worn out the rest of the parts must be in a good nick. So I recomend to tear the whole keyless apart, clean it rigourosly and lubricate it again. Dont forgett to inspect and lubricate the stem too. Otherwise the increased friction always will push that setting lever spring up due to its poor fitting. The lever nob on your still looks good but will wear down if you try the setting as it is now. I add some action photos from an original Omega 601 so you see how the setting spring should interact. Winding. Setting. PS. If you don't get it working I can send you some genuine keyless parts for free, just pop a PM.
  5. Must say this looks like a cool project, seems to do the business as well. Good work!
  6. The only downside with tips and trix like this is the solution will make a shockproof solution to a less shockproof one. The design of the most the springs are designed to hold a doomed jewel and all of a sudden you dont have one, instead it rests on the edges of the spring which makes it more rigid and stiff, a shock will probably not just break the pivot bet also damage the jewel. Personaly I wouldn't do things like this or even recommend it. (The grumpy HSL speaking )
  7. The movement is probably in need of a total service with cleaning and lubrication since the drive train is in a dead halt. I see you got the stem out and been picking various screws away.. guess if you turn it around and take the crystal away with a crystal lift the movement will pop out through the front with a slight push on the back. Just some theories i have since one can't see the front of the watch.
  8. Have you tried loosen the setting lever screw a bit, like slightly more than a full turn?...
  9. Yes the 20C is an excelent spring steel from Sandvik. The problem is they dont sell it is small quantities. As you live in Sweden there is a webshop to buy these material in small sheets. We usually use these ones to measure gaps with but makes for example excelent reset hammers, just meassure what thikness the original hammer has and get out the jiggsaw,,, https://webshop.mk-produkter.se/tolkstal/ark/
  10. Think it is a very good start, for the most not working all day long by the bench it's probably enough. But mostly one gets really obsesst when working with watches so then one need a slightly a more ergonomic solution. The suggestion from jdm is really good but hard to visiualize so i slapp a picture on a raised table, the arm rests can be bought separately so you can later go pro with your very nice bench and raise it up with an extra board + add the arm rests (some wood working skills are needed to cut out the arm rest positions) . But as I said think it has a stellar look right now and probabbly satisfies all your needs. Good work.
  11. Almost right the Omega co-axial is inspired from the Daniels design, there is a quite good illustration of the Omega one on the tube. Even if the escapement looks fantastic I belive in the device of minimizing the amount of components to make the solution more robust (like the swiss lever).
  12. I thought I saw a video a while ago from esslinger that amused me a bit, they show how to press in a crystal with a tensionring except the tensionring is still on the bench, but the process gives you an example of how it's done , as you see he uses the dies with a straighter edge which will compress the acryllic crystal from the sides. this will minimize the risk from cracking the crystal as if you try to push it in with the angular parts. The compression will make the tension ring shrink a bit and the crystal will slip on like a glove, if the crystal wasn't just a tad to large it would not resist water or dust coming into the case.
  13. If I might suggest a secondary opinion, you could leave the collet on the pivot. Since your hand seems to be bent in an u shape your hole got bigger, so gently pushing downwards on the sides of it will make the hole slightly smaller . You then can gently put it back with tweezers as the collet got the slip for it. While in place you can straighten it completely and it should sit in place. Next time you take the hands off you lift them at the bottom of the collet.
  14. Blowing the crystal of with a straw would take a set of lungs I don't have. One use a pump or some might use a larger syringe. But the problem you seem to have is the crystal you got might got the sides shaved of a bit when pushed back in so it now is slightly too small. On a for example Omega Seamaster with a case like this I would use an acrylic crystal with a tension ring, the tension ring gives that little extra to keep it in place. I see you used the right crystal PZ 5123 32.95mm, so something has happened to it..
  15. The more I look at it the cooler it gets, a nice piece.
  16. Guess we will be two keeping our eyes open after these Record labled ones, good tip I didn't think of I took a look in my "to fix box" and to my surprice I found a case of the first type with 6952 marking on it, obviously needs a new tube. It will fit a 6952 with a curved dial unfortunately I only had dials for it to the 6942 to test with. And it only take a dial up to a diameter of 29.5mm to 29.8mm. quite odd ones.
  17. I think @JohnR725 rapps the most of it together in a good way. I only can give a couple of links from the same school on here. The first is a lecture on this subject and the second of the washing process with the balance in place. Cap jewel cleaning lecture. And the second shows a basic service and the oiling and cleaning.
  18. I have not worked at that record version of this movement I just play with Longines branded ones. As you see in the links there seems to be two different versions of the 6952 movement case in the first link is stamped 6952 but I actually think the back is correct while the case is for an domed 441 movement and dial. (These has different positions on the dial feet too and smaller) The second link should a better case. But one should always ask the seller which diameter of dial it takes before bying since there is smaller dial diameters too. But what I seen from Matts work I'm quite sure he knows about all these basics. So when he asked about the stems I took a quick look at his Longines and didn't know if it has a flat or curved dial, but I assumed by the picture it probably has a flat dial so out I went to the testpit. The dials on all my 6942 are flat... the movement is not, but this is how they came (have a bunch of them). There is no surprice the 6952 is flat too.. Same size. So next we pop them into the case and they surprisingly fit the same ( No movementring or caseback was used for this quick test.thats why one see the small gap in the top) The case has a dome crystal. 6942 No Date. 6952 With date. The holes of the stems alignes at approximately 2.5mm so the stem fitts through the tube. So it seems atleast they tought of this at Longines. But it's always up to you to take a chance on the ebay of sharks Maybe it fitts maybe not.
  19. I guess one can say temper in this case just means to heat it up, since the pivot material probably earlier got heated up to quite high but a specific temperature and then quenched in water or oil just to make it harder. One could say the time it takes for a material to cool off determines its hardness. In this case you just warm it up so it gets a light blue color and then let it cool off in air. This process makes the material softer and easier to drill.
  20. Must say this one looks good there might be some small bits and bobs that has to be changed, but for 150$ this is a find. Something one should look at, might be hard sometimes is small things like the state of the screws. If you look at the right screw on the movement holder you can tell something has been going on with this watch, that screw is not from that watch.
  21. You done very good a good looking watch for sure, you can be proud. Is it based on a Landeron 48 or similar? PS. Just a tip. the chronograph hand should just reach the outer perimeter of the seconds , now its just a tad to long
  22. I think he has a lot of choises one would be buying a similar case, one that fitts. As a shoppinglist for a project like this I would begin with: Stem https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-New-1-Pc-Longines-6952-401-Winding-Stem-Tija-de-Remontuar-Tige-401/274254310420?hash=item3fdad4ac14:g:t04AAOSw9J9ePawt A 6952 Case will fit https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-WATCH-CASE-LONGINES-1559-1-6952-REPUESTOS/324163219916?hash=item4b79a231cc:g:6sEAAOSwFOZbGSd3 A 6922 Case will fit too https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Longines-6922-Case/153904064815?hash=item23d565a92f:g:EfsAAOSwJjtenc-h Only thing is they are stamped with the caliber inside the caseback , but can be used until a 6942 case pops up, but he for sure can enjoy the watch until then..
  23. Yes it's just a matter of looking if it is a date or no date version,I also took a look since this is based on the ST (Standard) movement which other had the same one, seems to be a bunch to choose from. CaseCaliber Factory Number:AS 1902 255 Hour wheel AS 1060 AS 1710 AS 1712 AS 1800 AS 1801 AS 1802 AS 1803 AS 1900 AS 1902 AS 1940 AS 1941 AS 1950 AS 1951 AS 2062 AS 2072 AS 2160 AS 2162 ELG 314 ELG 960 ELG 973 ELG 996 GIR 132 GP 142 STA 1800 STA 1802 ZOD 65
  24. Yes I see now the spring just lifted up, as you see Rodico is da shit when working with this type of winders
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