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Oh how I love them all.

A Vestron "Foreign" (so probably German) pin lever pocket watch. I actually picked this up to scavenge the hands from, but I couldn't resist having a look inside to see what ailed it. The balance was rattling around, but on closer examination it appeared to be complete, so I removed and re-fitted the balance cock and balance, gave the whole thing a quick and rudimentary clean and oiled the pivots. Off it went. It clearly still has a couple of issues. No crown, no stem and no second hand being the obvious ones. However, straight off the bat, and without any adjustment it is sitting around +80 sec per day, with the adjuster slap bang in the middle, so I'll let it run down and see how it fares. Hopefully as the oil gets to work, it will slow down slightly. I may have to source another watch for the parts for this watch, that I sourced for parts for another watch..... There is nothing mad about that whatsoever .... is there?

"...C.O.S.C. specified a daily rate of −4/+6 sec." The ancient Sekonda I am wearing at the moment is capable of that level of performance, however it isn't C.O.O.S.C, for a number of reasons, principally the fact that it is an ancient piece of USSR era Russian technology, and has been no where near Switzerland (to the best of my knowledge) but also because it hasn't been tested by an approved source, in a lab, over 15 days. It has however been tested by traveling half way round the world, being bounced about in uncomfortable transport on the roads of India, and subjected to extremes of environment, and managed to keep pretty much within +/- 3 sec per day the whole trip (yes I am daft enough to have checked). Now this doesn't mean the watch is in any way exceptional. Good, yes, but not exceptional. Most well maintained calibers should be capable of getting near the basic COSC standard, assuming they don't have too much wear and tear. The trouble is that it takes quite a bit of effort to maintain them to this standard. Which brings me to my point. C.O.S.C. testing only proves that when tested, the watch reached a particular COSC standard. After you have worn it for a while, it will most likely drift, particularly in the longer term, and if you don't get it serviced regularly. In other words a "fine chronometer" only remains "fine" if well looked after, and its adherence to COSC standard is only true, if you have had it tested recently. This is one of the selling points of the likes of Rolex. When you send in your Rolex to a Rolex approved service center to get serviced, they will service, maintain and test it (replacing any worn or damaged parts) to ensure it is still performing at the level it should. They obviously charge quite a lot of money for this. It could be argued of course that since your smart phone is accurate to a fraction of a second a month, then none of this is relevant, but that kind of misses the point of having a fine mechanical time piece in the first place.

Remember watch, tools, hands in bag. Head outside bag.

CaptCalvin was correct, it was the tiny sliver of silver. As the crown turned, I was able to move it out of the teeth and let down the mainspring. From what I understand, it was made after the Societe des Garde-Temps took over the Waltham brand (among others). Needless to say, quality decreased, as did demand for these watches. To be fair though, it's keeping time very well now and it looks nice.

Today I'm wearing my newly acquired, vintage big Q Timex Quartz. All original and keeping excellent time. Only the crystal needed a polish.

It has been mentioned many times here, work withing in a clear bag, poke in pegwood and tweezers, vision won't be the best but still better than losing parts. Then with your understanding I'm marking this thread as a warning for beginners that periodically show up here with the firm intention of attacking their timepiece, often a valuable and/or unreplaceable heirloom, without having any previous experience, and not even the tools needed. Only occasionaly we manage to dissuade them, but the one that we can't bring to reason invariably will never appear again to acknowledge their fooliness. On the first watch - which is really nice, certainly too much for an absolute beginner, if I counted properly Damaged crown wheel screw from turning counterclockwise with the wrong driver - which is still a lesser evil, as a the correct one used with force would have snapped it (with the benefit of doubt) cracked train jewel Distorted hairspring On the second, the "classic" flying spring. And I think you haven't got enough tools yet, not to mentioned a timegrapher or equivalent application? I understand one can be happy when seeing that the watch runs, but for a repairer the real issue is "how well does it run"? Please don't take this as flaming - I have done more damage than I like to admit, starting 10 years old with an innocent jumping hours heirloom piece - I still remember the watchmaker's comment about "someone messing with it" when I had to bring to to him avoid my parents finding. And then continued to this day. Have I learned from my mistakes? Sure, but 99% of them could have been prevented being (much) more careful and documented.

Thanks for the feedback. I even thought of using kneading rubber just to pick up dust from movement. It,s high time I think of getting proper tools doing the right job. I tend to be innovative often- being a retired architect by profession.

My U/S broke but I'm not buying another for now. I have found that with or without it I get, on average, identical results. As Jon said we don't all use identical methods, rather is the attitude and perservance that counts. I don't doubt that you have that and will do good.

Hi there Hayden... 'Failure is your best teacher' I always say to my watchmaking students. jdm is correct about not taking apart the family heirloom for the first watch to work on and also listed the biggest mistakes that are going to happen when someone first starts out on the journey of watchmaking. Springs are one of those things that the more you disengage and refit, the better and more confident you are going to become. If you have a descent pair of tweezers that are well honed and kept clean they will become an extension of your own hand, although this can take some time. I was told when I started that it would take up to two years to use them properly at which I scoffed, but realise that wasn't far off the truth, exactly like a micro surgeon and his knife. I use carbon steel tweezers, because they are hard, don't bend and you can grip really tightly with them. You should be able to pick up a human hair off a piece of glass. I get a doubled over piece of 1000 grit wet and dry paper and grip it with the tweezers and uniformly pull it away from the tips. This puts an ever so slight grain on the gripping faces and you will be able to hold screws and springs so much easier. A sharpened piece of pegwood is a good idea to hold down the spring when you are disengaging or/and refitting it. The more times you do it with the proper tools that are in good shape the easier it will become and the confidently you will hold said piece. Personally, I don't endorse using a plastic bag, because it is akin to riding a bike with always having stabiliser wheels on, or driving at 5 mph, just in case you hit something. But each to their own, it's just the way I do it and teach it. Working on cheap movements and losing/breaking pieces is part of the process. Once you get more confident and better at it, then you will work on some quality movements, because your skills and confidence in what you are doing will have grown. You are doing well, so don't get discouraged. It's like learning how to ride a bike.... you need the bruises to learn.

Got it I follow now. Get something that’s cheap and already works and take my time taking it apart and putting it back together rather than trying to restore vintage watches with issues present. I see now. As far as the tools I’ve been phasing out the cheaper ones already and been buying things from Esslinger. My next idea is to get an ultra sonic cleaner and solution, then a watch timographer. It’s just kinda hard to justify the more expensive tools right now to the mrs since this is just a random new hobby lol

It's a straightforward movement. That it's losing so much is worrisome, but could be as simple as the regulator pins too spread out. It's a breguet hairspring, so the regulator has less arc/influence, but I have a feeling you'll be fine. I can't remember if it has a T end mainspring but it's likely, if the spring looks good reuse it. It almost certainly doesn't have a separate T coupled with hole end. Those are a pain! It's a great movement, I'm certain it's a JLC base, but never had that confirmed. The 1003 also is in my mind a JLC base (838), that's a tricky one, ultra flat, suspended barrel, wouldn't recommend working on that one.

Waltham using that movement is a new one on me, that's for sure. Vietnam era military perhaps? It's a bit odd how the "Waltham" appears to be printed on the train bridge. But I guess one learns something new every day. The exact mechanism for releasing the click from the winding wheel/barrel is a mystery as well. Good luck to the OP.

So again then. if I purchase a movement that says it is GMT should I be concerned that the picture does not show all three hands on the center post?

Some lovely cats on here My current 'furry friend' Fozzy....... A rescue that was found, as a small kitten, by a dog walker, in woodland, shut in a pet carrier suitably sized for a Guinea Pig, god knows how long she had been in it!. She was taken to a local veterinary hospital, where my daughter in laws sister works, she had ulcerated sores that almost cost her her tail! After two months the tail had almost healed fully and she was well enough for us to adopt her and take her home She has been with us for two years now and is very much part of the family. Some of our previous feline companions.... 'Fudge' (named by my daughter) who was with us for 16 years... 'Jess' (you see the Postman Pat connection?) And Fozzy's immediate predecessor, Missy, another rescue, shortly after she came to us in 1999, hence the shaved patch and the scar from her spaying operation........ And seen here retrieving one of my youngest son's rolled up socks! Fozzy looks to be almost her clone ...

This is 4 years young Checco, neutered male which formally belongs to our neighbors two houses down from us, but in reality has two (or more ?) families - call it too much love for humans. He has become a star with his photos and adventures circulated almost daily among relatives and their coworkers. He's not afraid of anything, his favorite sports are lizard hunting and semi-friendly biting to myself.

Your best bet is old stock, anyone selling up around where you live. You could try ebay, I don't think you will be able to buy from a supplier. Have you tried searching on the web?

How lovely, she now has a wonderful home. Funny how cats love sitting on paper, she is such a nice colour.

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?00&ranfft&a&2uswk&FE_140_1A Just in case you need parts

This is "Nimnim" who I found starving in the garden ! She was eating stale bread that I had thrown out for the birds. I started feeding her and it took three weeks for her to come near me. Then one day she didn't run away! She rolled over then jumped on my lap.... Now I can't get rid of her. Considering how frightened of me she was, she now bosses the house. Every morning at 06.30 she jumps up on bed and hits me on the nose with her paw until I get up and feed her, if that doesn't work she sticks her cold nose in my eye ! Oh well looks like I have Nimnim forevermore lol.

Everything is right where I left it.

This is a very old watch, with single roller table, no mobile stud holder. Seems the jewel is happy where it is, that the roller table came off is a sign the hole is too large and yes a domed punch can close it so it frictions on well. Go slowly, when it seats on the staff with light pressure and the remaining distance to go is equal to the roller table thickness it's right, you can seat it fully.

My work bench was always a tip. People would comment saying how can you find anything.

yes; good show. if the clearance between the roller and the hole it too much, the shellac will not hold in long. vin

I like it just the way it is everything out of its place

nice

Today I'm wearing my Bulova accutron "hummer" This was my second electronic watch. I bought it as a bare movement, then got a case and dial combo. It's a pretty finicky movement. It will randomly stop for no apparent reason. I have to tap on the case at the 2 o'clock position several times to Kickstart the tuning fork. I'd love to get it serviced and properly tuned, but there are so few people who work on these and my finances won't allow it, so I just deal with these quirks. I certainly am not a confident enough watchmaker to tackle one of these myself.

Technically no. "Chronometer" refers to the certification. The most you're able to upgrade to with parts swaps would be top grade. In order for it to be "chronometer" you'd have to submit it for certification. That is not to say a movement of any grade can't be made as accurate as a "chronometer"-rated movement, it just has to be tested and serialized by COSC for it to become "chronometer."

Hi everyone, sorry for the silence over the last few days. So I was finally able to sit down at the bench and spend some time with this. I ended up adjusting the lid of the barrel and it feels much better. Things now move freely with a puff of the blower!

It all depends what you intend to make on a lathe, I can tell you after you start and learn the ropes, you will want to progress in machining more complicated parts. Just make sure accessories are available, they will also set you back a good sum of money.

Just got this Sprite the other day had to service movement and give it a new crystal came out pretty good. Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

I was home for lunch and was able to check for some end shake and I feel absolutely none. I also tried to hold the barrel and arbor in my tweezers like you have pictured nickelsilver and I was not able to hold it tight enough to keep the barrel from turning the arbor with it. So I would feel pretty confident that the cap may have been moved in the wrong direction.

Do you have endshake? It is unlikely (essentially impossible) for the holes to become tight over time, but it is possible for the cap to sit too low in the center, zapping the endshake and causing drag. If you're motivated to do it, it would be interesting to see what your amplitude is as is, then after correcting the barrel.

Normally this check is done clean and dry, but clean and oiled is OK too. Ideally it should move with a blower but just moving it by hand will tell you if it's free. You need some endshake, not excessive, and as said above it shouldn't have too much "tilt", this is a sign that the holes need to be closed. If holding with a pinvice you have to watch that the pinvice isn't influencing things. I prefer to capture the ends of the arbor in the flats of stout tweezers.

Never had the privilege to work on an Omega, so I can't say for sure, but why would they be different? The arbor and the spring still need room to move freely in the barrel. Are you talking about this article: https://adjustingvintagewatches.com/testing-mainspring-barrels/ There are some good tips in there about what the causes could be and how to remedy them. As long as you have cleaned everything thoroughly, I cannot see a problem with testing dry. Better than testing with a viscous lubricant on the parts, in my opinion.

Every minute you love a cat, you live a minute longer. [emoji6] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m so sorry to hear of this. I to lost my cat Cookie just over two weeks ago she was 23. I know what you are going through and it is horrible. I really feel for you, I really do. One thing that helps me is I keep talking to her as if she is still with me, I tell myself she is still here I just can’t see her.

Today, I am sad to report that my charismatic and loyal feline friend ‘Lightning’ passed on. She was only 12 years of age but a few weeks ago was diagnosed with a cancerous lump in her tummy. She slipped away peacefully at the vets this afternoon. She will be greatly missed, and I will always remember her.. always. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk