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Stevelp

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  1. I was home for lunch and was able to check for some end shake and I feel absolutely none. I also tried to hold the barrel and arbor in my tweezers like you have pictured nickelsilver and I was not able to hold it tight enough to keep the barrel from turning the arbor with it. So I would feel pretty confident that the cap may have been moved in the wrong direction.
  2. Klassiker that's my thoughts exactly thinking there should be no difference from one brand to the next. Yes that is the exact article that I was referring too, lots of good info in there for sure! When I am at the point of doing this test, the parts have been pegged and put through the cleaning machine and inspected so I'm fairly confident in the fact that grim would not be a contributing factor in this case. Nickelsilver that looks to be a much better way to do the test than what I was doing, thanks for the advice! I can rotate the barrel by hand but there is resistance when I do so. Maybe I should assemble it the way it is and check my amplitude reading. That way I can have a feel of what may be too much and what may be acceptable for future projects.
  3. On the previous ones that I have tested I’ve always done them dry but maybe that’s something I should do with this one.
  4. Hi everyone! So recently after reading an article about excess friction in the barrel/arbor assembly affecting amplitude I’ve been testing the fit between the 2 without the mainspring installed. So to test it I assemble the barrel and arbor without the mainspring installed and secure the arbor in a pin vise. Once secured I blow the assembly with a blower. According to the article and from what I’ve experienced the barrel should move freely on the arbor from the wind made by the blower. I’m working on my first Omega movement, an 865 and this barrel assembly does not move freely at all. So I’m just curious if anyone else does this, and being my first Omega I’m not sure if this is maybe normal for them? To me it makes sense it should be fairly free to rotate. Any thoughts on this? And if it’s not the norm any recommendations on remedies? I’ve seen some procedures to increase end shake with the staking set. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
  5. Just a bit of an update. After a number of rounds of polywatch (both inside and out, just as many scratches on the inside of the crystal as the outside) I think things turned out extremely well!
  6. vinn3 you are absolutely right it is acrylic. I know some people say that scratches and bumps and such add to the watches character and patina and I don't debate that but if I can I like to start fresh. But being a bit more or a rarity I think I will give polywatch a go and see what kind of result I can get. Upon inspection it seems that this crystal has the painted dots and not the luminous dots. Ill keep you posted on the results. Thanks everyone for the input!
  7. I have had success as well with things like polywatch. I figured because the inner workings on the accutron are so interesting and tend to be a focal point all of the somewhat deeper scratches that are left behind to me would still feel kinda obvious.
  8. Hi all! So I have always been a fan of the Spaceview Accutrons so when one came up for sale in my small town I thought I would take advantage of the opportunity. Overall I would say the watch is in decent condition, but scratched crystals tend to get to me a little bit. Just curious if someone might have the part number for the original yellow dot crystal as I don't want to put a reproduction on. Also, I see a lot of the yellow dot crystals for sale that say they are luminous and mine does not seem to be. Did some have the luminous crystal and some not?
  9. Sorry for the delayed response Watchmaker and RyMoeller. Thanks for the great info, certainly more than I would have ever found on my own!
  10. HI everyone! Just curious if anyone may have any information about this watch I just picked up. The dial reads "MEMO", and it has an ARSA movement. After doing some research it does look like some ARSA watches but I can't seem to track down anything about MEMO. Any thoughts?
  11. AlexeiJ1 that is a very interesting and creative method! Ill have to find some damaged day wheels to maybe get some practice doing this if ever the situation arises!
  12. Anilv, yes I do have the complete watch with caseback. The case back does indicate it is a 6106-7689. Walsey that is a great piece of information that you have there. The disks that I have are different numbers so I guess I will be on the hunt for those numbers. Thanks everyone!
  13. Hello everyone! Picked up a small bunch of parts from an estate sale awhile back and inside was a box with a Seiko 6106-7689 completely torn down. I thought the watch was very unique and decided to piece it back together. The movement is now back together and running very nicely, but when I fit the day and safe wheels that were in the parts box, the day and date don’t line up in the dial window. My question is, because the crown is at the 4 o clock position, are the day and date wheels specific to the 7689 because they are offset of the crown? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  14. Thanks AlexiJ1 for the recommendation and everyone else for the input. Replateit.com did come up during my search and I was hoping someone here would mention their quality of work. I think I have decided I will send it to Lewis Watch Co. in Australia, his work looks exceptional from what I've seen. antonyh, yes they said they would not accept it due to no original paperwork.
  15. Hi everyone! So I’ve just picked up my first Omega and to be honest I am very excited to start this project! It’s an Omega Chronostop with a broken balance and tangles mainspring but otherwise mechanically seems in good shape. I’ve accumulated all the pieces necessary to do the repair mechanically so now I’m on to the case. I’d like to get it restored back to original but not quite sure where to go. I brought the case in to my nearest Omega dealer and they said it could not be sent to a service centre to be re-done as I dont have any original paperwork. Since there is a sunburst finish on the case a lapping machine would be ideal. Can a person send in a case independently from a dealer to Omega? If not, can anyone recommend a case restorer that could bring it back close to original finishes? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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