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About MyFavoriteObsession

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  1. The movement has a beat rate of 18,000A/h and my timegrapher auto-detects it as 21,6000A/h. This is what I suspected, as I have no idea who has worked on this watch before me. The hairspring is correctly positioned in the regulator, I tested the hairspring with pegwood to check for sticking/magnetism, and the entire watch and my tools have been demagnetized. I am not sure at all. The 10BM uses a 10AK hairspring and I have some here that I can test with. I'll try this step next. Thank you all for your advice.
  2. Hello again, I have a 1950 Bulova 10BM movement that is running extremely fast. I do not know the watch's history. So far, I have demagnetized, cleaned, and lubricated, and it is still gaining time. The hairspring is clean, not bent, coils are not stuck together or magnetized. I was wondering, when a watch is gaining vast amounts of time and you've demagnetized and cleaned but you don't know the watch's history, what are the next steps you would take to determine the cause?
  3. Hi and welcome! I'm also in the SE US, glad the heat is finally beginning to break down here.
  4. An update on the OWA issue: I ordered a new replacement part for the watch and it arrived a few days ago. Thanks to Watchweasol's tech sheet, the installation and lubrication went very smoothly. Had I the attention span of a grapefruit, I would have noted in Watchweasol's tech sheet the sole, but crucial difference between the AS1361 and the AS1361N: the diameter of the oscillating weight axle has been increased on the New version of this movement. Of course, I didn't notice and I ordered a part for the old version. Now I have an attached, albeit very wobbly rotor and it's all going back into
  5. Hello again, I recently got this Hudson 17J Automatic in the mail. Inside, it had a Pronto AS 1361N movement. It cleaned up nicely, I think. The rotor was very wobbly and I found that the oscillating weight axle had broken, with the majority of the axle stuck inside the rotor. I can find a replacement oscillating weight axle, but I'd like to keep the original rotor, if possible. Does anyone know of a safe and simple means of removing the remaining bit of axle from the rotor?
  6. Mr. Roundel, you have the exact idea. The crystal must fit over the bezel, rather than inside it. I'm fairly comfortable selecting the correct size high dome acrylic, but these PA waterproof type crystals are another matter entirely. To clarify, this type of crystal can be pressed on by hand and doesn't require a crystal lift. It's not a PHD or Stella High Dome type. For example, I have a Wyler with a bumper automatic movement. I can't find the model name, so I went by the original crystal size: 27.2mm outer diameter. The GS catalog had one for a Wyler "1073" that was 27.2mm, model PA385
  7. Hello again. I've recently had to replace PA type crystals for the first few times and have found it confusing, which is not surprising in itself, as I often find getting out of bed confusing. In the past, I've measured the outer diameter of a PA crystal, made a best effort to match it to one in the GS catalog and ordered a replacement, only to consistently receive a crystal that is too small (both times with Wyler watches). Am I missing something? For example, I have a 1961 Bulova Sea King that I like very much, but that needs a new crystal. The outer diameter is 28.3mm. In the GS catalog, th
  8. I can't thank you enough, Watchweasol! Within one minute of opening the file, I found the part is called a "Breguet spring". Thank you again!
  9. Hello, I used the Bulova Self-Winding Watches booklet (pg 18) and the '52 Catalog of Interchangeable Parts (pg. 79) to attempt to identify as many parts as I could. I don't believe that is the part but thank you.
  10. Hello, I am working on an AS 1320 (Bulova 10BRC, 9AS) automatic movement and have found it to be missing a part for which I cannot find a name. I have looked at the 10 BRC automatic assembly parts list and the parts list for the movement itself and still cannot locate it. Here is a photo with the missing part outlined in red. It is a spring-like device that prevents the automatic assembly's third winding wheel from engaging the ratchet wheel when the mainspring is fully wound. If anyone could tell me the name of this part so I could order a few replacement parts, I'd really apprecia
  11. Hello everyone, I'm trying to select the correct replacement balance staff for a 1911 Elgin 18s grade 336 pocket watch (SN# 15636551). According to the Pocket Watch Database, the Elgin part number is 857, but I have to select either long hub, short hub, or pivot 11, 12, 13, 14, and 15. I'm not sure which is the correct part for this watch and was hoping someone might be able to advise? I have the original staff on hand if that helps. Thank you in advance!
  12. Hello again, I'm working on a Bulova 11ACAC that is missing a wheel and I was hoping someone might confirm that the missing part is the third wheel? Here's a photo marked with a red arrow: Thank you in advance!
  13. This R25 arrived today and I was hoping that someone well--versed in LIP watches might be able to help me determine its age. It lacks the dust cover inside and has no model name on the dial. It's one of the large R25's, being 38.5mm across. I appreciate any information at all! Thanks!
  14. CaptCalvin was correct, it was the tiny sliver of silver. As the crown turned, I was able to move it out of the teeth and let down the mainspring. From what I understand, it was made after the Societe des Garde-Temps took over the Waltham brand (among others). Needless to say, quality decreased, as did demand for these watches. To be fair though, it's keeping time very well now and it looks nice.
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