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Deggsie last won the day on May 10 2018

Deggsie had the most liked content!

About Deggsie

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  1. Hi Darak. Thanks for the reply. I think when you properly clean and correctly lubricate the upper/lower balance jewels you will see better results - not such a big difference in s/day when the watch is moved to the various positions. I usually check and record dial up, dial down, 6up, 3up, 9up and 12up. You’ll need to remove the watch from the microphone clamp and turn it over to get all readings. Retrospectively, lubrication technique is more important than the lubricant when learning. Don’t rush out and buy too many. As a guide, just a dot of moebius 8000 on your thumb nail will do the whole watch. That’s how little you need. If you are using a lot more, question where it’s going. Only oil the face of the ‘exit’ pallet stone and never the pallet pivots unless you find specific instructions from the manufacturer to say otherwise. An ultrasonic cleaner will be a low cost high gain addition to your toolkit. Don’t waste time and money trying to learn on cheap junk movements, it is likely they were rubbish when new and you’ll tear your hair out wondering why you cannot get them to run well. AS and ETA are nice, but watch out as it’s difficult to buy spares such as hair springs for some of the older models. Kind regards, Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Hello Darak. Thanks for taking the time and effort with the report. Can I ask what method you used to lubricate the upper and lower balance jewels? I have a few favourite watches depending on whether I’m working or doing sport. For work I am chained to a desk most of the day and estimated that the best possible position to time the watch is 6oclock up tilted 45 degrees through the 3-9 o’clock axis. Try it out yourself and see if it suits you Regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. The correction which will make the maximum effect will be adjacent to the stud. That will pull the coils concentric about the staff, enough so to allow the balance to run again. Don’t remove the Hs from the staff unless your competent to reinstall and reset the beat. This looks much worse than it is. Don’t be too keen to rush in, just a gentle tweak at the stud will fix it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. What I should have included in my response is that I have had the same problem on my weishi (same model). These are very reasonably priced instruments for us hobbyists, but are not infallible. Just check the rate fundamentally. If you don’t think 3 mins is enough, go to 5...... hell even 10 if you want, but check the fundamentals first. Once the rate and beat become within a certain band of tolerance the machine is very useful. If we conclude the rate is not far out, then start delving deeper. As I said, I was always taught not to think zebras just because I hear hoofs. Kind regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Back to basics... what is the accuracy over say 3 min period? I was always taught ‘if you hear hoofs, don’t jump to the conclusion it’s a zebra’ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Ok, back to basics then - without the timegrapher, simply measure the accuracy over say 3 minute period. What are you obtaining please? What you see on display is a clear ‘tick and tock’ of the escapement but the frequency is way out, as if the rate is extremely high. By the way I would adjust the movement first then worry about setting the rate. That is to say the beat angle needs to be closer to 0.0 ms than it is currently. Let us know how you get on. Kind regards. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. the stud should be on spoke, almost 90deg off. That alone is enough for a flight to nowhere. This is not always the case. The stud in some case should align with a dot stamped on the outside diameter of the balance wheel. If this is present, it serves as a good starting point for reinstalling the HS or checking initial beat with the BW out of the movement Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. He means that the weishi model you have is capable of showing a colour display. You appear to have it in mono. Makes no difference when problem solving your issue though. Check the machine settings are ‘auto detect beat rate’. What you are seeing there looks like the machine has mistakenly sensed the movement as 18000 bpm. Please let me know. Regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Hello all. This forum never ceases to amaze me by the way people are so willing to help out. Thank you so much for all of your very useful replies. It certainly helps to know that the ETA2390 HS will be a ‘direct’ donor part into the ETA2408. whilst I appreciate what NuceJoe is explaining about needing to set the length to establish the correct vibration period, it seems in this case that the HS will not require further adjustment? Is that correct? And to clarify, yes the BW has Inca shock system. [emoji846] Many thanks again!! Kind regards, Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Thank you for your reply. It seems it will be taking quite a chance to buy the eta 2390 spring in the hope all the criteria match when I receive it. I think I will hold on an wait for the eta 2408 to come along on eBay. I might be lucky - no hurry. Thanks again, Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Hello. I am trying to source a hair spring (does not need to be balance complete) for an ETA 2408. Could you please advise if the hairspring on an ETA 2390 is compatible, and for my own future reference, how do I find such information please? Kind regards, Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. That’s a nice little jump movement. I have made up a crystal before but it took 3 iterations before getting it to my satisfaction. I modelled the crystal using a 3D cad package at work then sent it to a cnc milling machine to be cut from a solid block of Perspex. The hard work was progressive polishing with wet n dry then final polish with polywatch which gets very hot. The finished crystal was bonded into place with hypo cement. It’s not hard with the tools I used but you may be a better raw material craftsman than I am. Good luck. Regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Wow!!! Thank you for your time in teaching me that. I very much enjoyed reading it and would love to try that for myself, although I’m sure not as successfully at first Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Ultrasonic power isn’t ever mentioned in threads about cleaning, but it’s really important. At work we have an ultrasonic tank that will dissolve an aluminium cake cup in under a minute. It’s used for cleaning hydraulic machine parts that get pretty grimed. I’d not want to put watch parts in it for a second! So it’s horses for courses. If you use a 35watt x 40khz ultrasonic bath and keep the times sensible then you will be ok with watch parts, but don’t expect it to clean carburettor bits. As I say, it’s horses for courses. Ultrasonic cleaning machines have been used by watch repairers for years. Just be mindful of choosing one not too powerful. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. I was having a think about this on my drive in to work today. You say that the movement has been cleaned, however you don’t say how you relubed the barrel or what lube you used. It may be feasible that the edges of the mainspring are snagging on the bottom of the barrel and the barrel cover. This would cause a ‘slip-stick’ situation, and therefore not give smooth transmission of power to the train. Just a thought! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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