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Deggsie last won the day on May 27

Deggsie had the most liked content!

About Deggsie

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  1. Hello Clockboy. Oh, I wished the Incabloc I have was that simple to service! That is a beaut! Unfortunately the hinge on my lyre spring is captive until the bloc is pressed out either partially (I hope) or in full (please not) from it’s locating bore. I’ll try to find a good photo showing the predicament I’m in. It may turn out to be a simple job when all is said and done. Kind regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Thanks for your reply Clockboy, I think with the type of Incabloc I have, the only way to install the new lyre is to expose the entrance to the hinge, which I believe to be on the outside diameter of the bloc, therefore it’s essential to drive the bloc at least partially out (maybe all the way). I tried taking out the existing lure but can see no way without removing the bloc. Nucejoe. Thanks for your reply too. Can I ask a dumb question please? I have seen the word Ebauche on many occasions but what dose it mean? Is it a Swiss term for the overall movement? Exploring your answer more, do I really need to fully remove the bloc from the main plate? I’m hoping to get away with say 50 %, enough to expose the hinge slot. Also, can I do this with a staking press, jeweling press or do I need the Incabloc stumps? Aggghhh. These tiny things are sent to test us! [emoji846] Enjoy your Sunday Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Hello all. Whilst servicing a Favre Leuba Sea King with Twin Power FL253 mov't. I managed to break the incabloc lyre spring during chaton/stone removal. Presumably the spring material had become brittle over the years, or maybe I wasn't as gentle as I needed to be? Probably the latter! I know the part number for the replacement lyre spring, and these are fortunately still stocked by Cousins UK, so no problems there. What I would like please is some advice on the procedure for pressing the bloc from the main plate so that I can a) replace the dead lyre spring and b) reverse the process, ensuring that the bloc is returned to its exact original position. I say the exact original position, because prior to my faux par the balance end shake was perfect and the balance oscillated beautifully with little friction. Will I need the dedicated incabloc tools, maybe a jeweling press, or can the operation be carried out carefully with a staking set? I've been very lucky so far, and never broken a lyre spring - so this is a first time replacement for me. Thanks in advance for your advice.
  4. Hello, I’ve recently purchased Elma WP Pro watch cleaning solution from Cousins UK. I’ve not had chance to try it out yet but wondered what results any of you may have had with it, good or bad. I planned to use the volition in small sealed beakers / jam jars in my ultrasonic tank. This will be the first ammoniated cleaner I’ve used, and so I’ll carry out the decanting of cleaner into the small jars in a well vented area, possibly out in my garage. I’d be interested in hearing how you guys use the cleaner and the results you get. Kind regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Thanks all for your reply. Apologies it’s taken a while to get back to you but I’ve been away from home and unable to use my pc. Anyway, I did order a nos balance complete for a 717 and I’ll keep you all up to speed on how the repair goes. Kind regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Sorry all, I think I posted this question in the wrong topic area. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Hello all. I am currently working on an Oris with an ETA 727 movement requiring a new balance staff. Ideally I would like to swap it out with a NOS balance complete. I have found a balance complete but for an ETA717, not the ETA727. Does anyone please know what the difference of between these two movements? The Ranfft website shows both movements and details them both the same. Furthermore, would it be worth me taking a chance buying the ETA717 balance complete for my ETA 727? Kind regards. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Hi. Do you have any updates on the exciting post please? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Thank you balaton. I appreciate your information. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. The crystal has a polymeric (maybe nylon) friction ring. Should this be installed around the crystal and then the sub assembly pressed into the case, or insert the friction ring into the case and then press the crystal in? The latter seems like it would be difficult, but I thought I’d just check. And lastly I’m assuming no lubrication is required as this might leave a messy residue. Regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Hi. Just to update you with this. I found the crystal on cousins by chance. I find their search engine to be near useless. Even after finding the part by luck, I entered the cousins part number and it returned ‘no data was found’. I’m confused. However here is the part I found: So all that is required is to order and fit. Kind regards Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Thanks for your responses gents. I’ll check out cousins today, perhaps even give them a call now that I have the correct part number. Yesterday I pushed out the crystal but it just cracked under the stress. It was VERY scratched and chipped. I was surprised at just how much interference there was on the installation. I’ve managed to salvage the nylon ring which is is sandwiched between the case and crystal od. What I neglected to do prior to disposing of the broken crystal was measure its thickness. I will keep you up to date on how this on goes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Hello all. My wife has asked me to install a new crystal into her ladies seiko 7n83 0081. The crystal is very chipped and scratched. Im not fond on seiko, as to me they lack character. However on this occasion I’m rather bound to provide the required service [emoji38]. Question is, who is the best supplier in the UK for seiko crystals please and does anyone know the part number for upgraded sapphire crystal please? Kind regards Darren. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Parker’s are great for o ring data. I use them at work (I’m a mechanical eng). Just pay attention to shore hardness and surface finish of the back plate contact area. Everything else is quite forgiving unless you get the groove too narrow or way over depth. I love the design by the way. It’ll look even better as the years go by! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Hi Nucejoe. I now have the hair spring and don’t need any further components. She ticks away beautifully - to my wife’s annoyance, she isn’t keen on loud Pin pallet watches [emoji6]. I’ll report back on the movement, but believe it’s a newmark mk2. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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