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Deggsie last won the day on May 10 2018

Deggsie had the most liked content!

About Deggsie

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  1. The problem with these small movements is that each time you manipulate things, you get close to disaster. And it's a game of numbers. Cheers. .. well put sir! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. As promised in my post below, I did carry out a test on an old ruined pallet fork to assess the effect of isopropyl alcohol. The fluid is manufactured by 3M and called ‘Surface cleaner for VHB tape’. The data sheet says the product is 90% propan-2ol And 10% water. (Propan-2-ol is ipa). First I checked the texture of the shellac with a broken oiler converted into sharp pin. Very hard and glass-like, brittle at extremities Test 1. Submersed for 10 seconds, and absorbed excess fluid on tissue paper. At 20X magnification the shellac appeared no different. Shellac was still glass hard Test 2. As above, dip time extended to 20 seconds, results as test 1 Test 3. Dip time of 1 minute. Results as test 1 Test 4 Dip time 5 minutes with agitation. Results as test 1 Test 5 At this point I had to return to work so I left the component in for well over an hour. Upon my return, I examined the component and this time the shellac had expanded and was sponge like when probed with a pin. The stones could be moved in their sockets. After allowing the shellac to dry for 10 minutes, it’s texture was still soft and spongy. Clearly the ipa had taken an effect So unfortunately I am unable to conclude the exact time elapsed before the ipa caused the shellac to soften, however even though I have not knowingly had an issue associated with pallet stones in the past, I have now made a decision that I will not place the pallet fork or balance in ipa in future, just in case. I also researched the use of ipa for watch cleaning on other sites, and the nawcc is very clear about it not being used at all on components which are shellac bonded: https://mb.nawcc.org/threads/best-final-rinse-to-avoid-residue-acetone-vs-99-isopropyl-vs-denatured-alcohol.121554/ Hope this is of interest. Regards. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Apologies if this sounds like I am contradicting your advice TexanDon, but I’m a little confused because a well seasoned Horologist told me that as I’m only cleaning a few watches a week, it was fine to use naphtha (lighter fluid) and then a final rinse in ipa as it does not leave streaks or surface strains. This was for all components. My tests of an old scrap pallet showed no harm to the shellac around the pallet stones. So tomorrow I’m going to do the test again, just to see either way. The pallet fork I use is from a Russian 2403A which must have been overheated at some time because the pallet stones droop from the pallet fork! Kind regards Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Hello mlflyd1. Yes, they are.. but so is Vaseline, and that is sold for use on baby rash for example. Not all petroleum cracked products behave in the same way. I have not ever had problems with the shellac dissolving from a scrap pallet fork I tested in white spirit etc.. So are you saying that naphtha, white spirit or methylated spirits should not be used to clean the pallet forks? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. The surfactant is very strong, so use caution. Better to do it in several short duration cleans rather than risking it for too long. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Hello Nucejoe. Sorry you mistake me for an expert Horologist as I do not service Rolex (perhaps in the future if I keep practicing). I appreciate your contribution though [emoji846] What I will add is that I have now taken out the pallet fork and escape wheel, cleaned in naphtha, rinsed in ipa and reassembled. The balance now energises after a few turns on the crown. So, luckily I think the pallet stones are still correctly located. Regards Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. I have had a lot of success with alternatives to acetone, naphtha, white spirit and such like. Two very good household cleaners I have had good results with are biotex and also ‘shout’. The latter being a readymixed waterbased solution in a pump bottle. I use this on very badly contaminated dials. Spray on and after 10 seconds very gently stroke the surface with a fluffed up cotton bud. Rinse after 1 minute and repeat if necessary. The only time this failed was with a Russian watch dial which I accidentally left soaking for about an hour. Unfortunately the decals came off, but the dial was like new! Here are some before and after photos of a success story. The pointers were not attempted as the lume is too old and thin. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Yes...I once bought used pallets for a seiko and the pallet stones were mis aligned. I contacted the chap I bought them from and he politely stated the pallets were taken from a working watch and all he had done was clean them prior to sending to me. A day later I got a refund and a polite email saying he had placed scrap pallets into his ultrasonic cleaner to test it, and discovered that it eroded all of the shellac away. I have never found that naphtha fluid, white spirit, methylated spirits, isopropyl alcohol or biotex harms shellac. Has anyone found fluids which should not be used? I’ve not tested petrol (close to benzene). Regards Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Many thanks watchweasol. Still at my workplace just now so can’t check but promise to feedback my findings to you all. Cheers Deggsie Ps. Is moebius 8000 ok on the pallet stones? What is the best method to apply it? Thanks
  10. Thank you all for your invaluable input. I will check the approximate beat this evening by putting the balance assembly onto a spare main plate and checking to see that balance comes to rest with the jewel at mid span between the banking pins. I know this will be mk1 calibrated eyeball only, but should give me a reasonable indication as to how well in beat the watch is or isn’t. One other factor has crossed my mind.. I think this may have started after I applied lubrication to the pallet stones. Might I have overlubed and caused too much viscous drag for self startup? I used moebius 8000 and none on the pallet pivot Kind regards Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. That is a beautiful watch which exhibits real character. I bet you feel a great sense of satisfaction repairing it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Hello all. I have recently cleaned and serviced an AS2390 movement, which initially after lubricating/ reassembling would begin to tick with just a turn or so of the winding stem. However, a week on and the movement has developed a problem. If the movement is not wound daily and mainspring is allowed to completely de-power, then during winding the watch will not begin tick without a slight ‘swing’ to assist it. In fact it is possible to wind the mainspring to maximum and the watch will only start to tick if a slight swing is applied. Thereafter the watch keeps good time and does not ever seem to stop until the spring completely de-powers again. I am curious as to what is causing this, since initially the watch would start ticking with one or so winds of the crown. Your thoughts and help would be much appreciated please. Kind regards Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. You definitely need a bezel lift tool. It’s a vice like device with 2 arcs which mate with the bezel diameter. These arcs are tapered, and fit snugly between the bezel and case. When the vice is tightened, an even wedge is applied all round and the bezel pops off. Neither case, nor bezel are damaged. Using a knife will end in tears. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Deggsie

    Timegrapher question

    I’m also a secondary modern, and also requiring allowances... so I understood your question precisely. I think others across the pond were baffled though [emoji3] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Quick reply for now.. sorry for brevity. Cleaned exactly as per your suggestion. Jewel is there as your photo, but more ruby red. Regards Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk