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    • Ok, let's make another example. Let's say I want collets like the below to cut holes in straps.  https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/hole-cutter-rotating-6-punches I suppose they should be hardened just like a notch cutter: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/notch-cutter-pliers-cousins-swiss-style In my EU country only structural, stainless and leaded steels are available retail. I can still buy on Ebay of course, most sellers are from the UK but is not like they carry any US type like O W and such letters. There is no heat treatment company that does retail work. So far I've found that turning leaded stock on my small lathe produces acceptable results, not so much for structural, and I'm not even trying stainless at this time. These are my constrains, and of course a reasonable budget. How to proceed?
    • It does remove (and compress) material, but it could be just a micron or two to several hundredths or more. Burnishers as used on pivots always have a straight grain texture, this is in effect a micro file. When burnishing on a Jacot tool you are removing a small amount of material as well as work hardening it. It does increase the wear resistance of a pivot. When I make a balance staff I generally leave the pivots 0.01-0.02mm oversize and bring them down to final size in the Jacot tool.
    • Another lesson learned, I broke the click of a Seagull mov.t  (no parts available) while letting down power. Bad design, isn't flexible enough to stay away from the ratchet wheel while do so. Better let it unwind by itself if possible, or be extra super cautious. Anyone can suggest a spring that I can adapt? The hole is 3.5mm. 
    • I didn't know about that Citizen Jet, thanks for the heads up.  
    • Good to see you here.   Just don't get sucked in to any, er, "conversations" about lubrication and all will be well :-) Seriously, we all try very hard to keep this forum friendly and pleasant.  Cheers!
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