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fjseal

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About fjseal

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    WRT Addict

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    Male
  • Location
    Wembley.

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  1. You should use plastic or wood levers rather than metal tweezers, and don't handle the battery with your fingers. The amount of idiots on Youtube who do this is misleading.
  2. Thanks for all your answers...I found a picture of the same watch on Google images, and the sub-hands are in the same positions, so you are all obviously on the money. First time I've seen anything like this; there is always something new to learn. I think a lot of people buy fancy chronographs for show but never use the functions.
  3. I have replaced the battery on this watch, but cannot see how to reset the three subdials; there are no pushers nor does there seem to be a mid position for the winding stem. The movement only has 'SL68' marked on it, there is not a manufacturer's logo anywhere. Is there something obvious I am missing or does anyone know how to set the small hands. Thanks.
  4. Is there any requirement to periodically calibrate a Weishi Timegrapher? There is a Frequency Calibration socket on the back of mine, and today my Vostok movement was reading plus several seconds a day, then changed to minus for no apparent reason. When I worked in aircraft maintenance things like torque wrenches had to be checked every six months, so I am wondering if watch repair may have similar rules laid down. Would appreciate any thoughts or knowledge, thanks. Regards.
  5. It came in this wooden case with barometer.
  6. Is it normal for a clock movement to have no visible form of identification, if so, could it be hidden out of sight somewhere. How can one make a start on finding, for example, a new mainspring or the age of the movement . This is the clock I asked about earlier regarding mainspring condition. Watchweasol thought it could be of European, possibly German origin.
  7. I will try to attach pictures, I hope you can see them, thanks. This is a clock given to me by a friend to try and fix, so I don't know what's been done to it in the past.
  8. Thanks for your prompt replies; Watchweasol, it is a conventional balance but I have not been able to find any identification on the movement yet.
  9. Hello all and a Happy New Year. Is there a way of assessing the condition of a clock/watch mainspring by the way it feels when you wind it. I have a clock movement that winds fully but when you move the balance wheel it oscillates a few times but will not continue to run. It is almost as if it wants to go but there is not enough energy to drive it. Winding the spring feels normal, so I am inclined to think the problem is not with the spring. Also, there is an alarming rattle as if something is loose inside the barrel which is only there when the spring is wound; there is nothing with it fully released. Any ideas would be welcome, thank you.
  10. For a newcomer one thing to be careful of is squeezing the tweezers too hard when holding a small part, quite often the part will 'ping' off at great speed involving much searching. Basic stuff, but you don't always think of it at the time.
  11. Dear all, When refitting sub dial hands to a chronograph, do they have to be synchronised in any way, or can they just be put back on without worrying about anything. Thanks, Frank.
  12. Making allowances for a secondary modern boy, I hope this question isn't too simple, but what does 'seconds a day mean'... is it over a 24 hour period?
  13. Kayman is exactly right. Here is a photo of what we mean. The brass spring has, as you can see, a round-shaped end which has to be supported. I put a piece of rod in my mini bench vice and supported it on that.
  14. fjseal

    Nav

    Did you support the circular part on the brass coloured arm (near the ratchet wheel) when you fitted the second hand? I don't know if it affects your query, especially as it happened before the second hand fit, but you may have damaged or misplaced something.
  15. Is it possible that the impulse jewel has become disengaged from the pallet fork, or could that not happen?
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