Ishima

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Ishima last won the day on July 29 2016

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About Ishima

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  1. Canon Pinion Remover Tool?

    A normal presto hand remover can be used as well, you just have pinch at the bottom to keep enough grip as you compress the sides to lift. (I believe the credit for that tip goes to mark though I cannot remember for sure) I'd like to echo concerns I've heard from more than one senior watchmaker, of which I respect (again, I think one was mark) about pulling directly up, which can be difficult with improvised tools like pin vices and nail clippers. You run the risk of damage if by errant twitch you pull to the side and not directly up.
  2. I see my previous suggestion is impossible. if it has no vertical play as it is, as Michael suggests it might, then would it maybe be worth unlidding the barrel, twisting the arbor free of the spring and seeing if the arbor allows itself to be pushed down. Even if it's not the case, it seems looking inside the barrel may yield other clues.
  3. I cannot endorse this enough, a great idea in general for facing any watchmaking problem, it'll probably be easy the next time you come to sit down with it.
  4. I'm guessing you have to budge and pry it upwards, off the arbor that way, I look forward to being told how wrong I am.
  5. Trouble fitting screwback case ?

    Another good method is using the rubber case back ball, sometimes i fumble about for a minute with my hands before getting it out of the draw, and then quickly a couple of turns each way and the case back finds and slips into the thread easily in my experience.
  6. Rado's Movement Repair?

    I mean if you really want to play around fixing basic quartz movements you should probably find something with the common Miyota 2035 or similar, easy to find and everything comes apart and goes back together, with screws. I don't think it's possible to repair a plastic-riveted movement. Also, as has been said, this is a replica watch.
  7. Over tightened Casebacks

    I mean using moderate force, a case back should never be that hard to remove. I would say definitely use a Jaxa or similar to do the final tighten/first loosen. There's no problem with using the jaxa and doing it a bit tighter than the rubber ball can do, the problem is some technicians out there seem to think it a strong-man competition and are completely reckless with how much they tighten it. Reasonable, moderate, controlled force (Which I get is a nebulous concept) is all you need, no grunting or panting or gauging the case back, no spraining your wrist, etc. I've taken notice that, when working on omega and tag watches that I knew were last worked on at a tag/omega workshop, that the technicians don't even tighten them as much as I would. but certainly, they don't come off with a rubber ball.
  8. Not a clock repairer but I would lean on whatever was best and most safe and effective to clean the hidden functional parts for that particular clock (so yes by all means consider changing cleaning method if you're worried about causing cracks or such) should be prioritised over any sentiment historical or otherwise, for visible parts such as the face and hands obviously a different mindset is necessary and I would say virtually no cleaning is the ideal (to preserve the patina) unless it's gotten to an extreme where no one would want to look at it and then you're looking at restoring. But I'm not really familiar with clock making practices, it's possible minor feats of re enameling and painting and chemical cleaning are used on the face is standard practice. Where's Clockboy
  9. BATTERY CHANGE

    Not something I've seen or heard about before. I routinely work on 4 figure watches but this is really something else, don't think I'd have even considered trying. I will say it's a very interesting piece and just as a technician, on both a personal and professional level I'd love to be able to do...anything at all with this. My curiosity is peaked. But for better or for worse the cautious voice in me is the louder one, and it agrees with WLS.
  10. Water testing watch dangers

    I can see that being a problem. Get those little pockets of air trapped in the bezel or what have you and end up having to go through this lengthy explanation and maybe they don't believe you and ergh. Would be a big problem for me at least, most of the time I just need to get the jobs done, serve the customers efficiently and get back to the workbench. As a tangent though, I am guilty of occasionally being a bit too transparent with customers in other ways though. For example, a lot of people tell them "You open a watch and it breaks the seal" well that isn't really accurate, so If a customer tells me they've been told that I usually explain the full nature of resealing instead of using the quick and easy white lie. The problem being I'm rarely sure whether they're less assured or more. I just don't want to lie both because it makes me uncomfortable and because of that adage about "the truth being easier to remember" you don't end up contradicting yourself.
  11. Water testing watch dangers

    It's not unheard of, but I think it's usually a case of careless testing. It only happened to me once after I pulled the watch out of the water and in my haste let the valve off a little bit more so I could get the watch out and go about my work quicker, so luckily no real harm there done. I was trained to follow these rules. after pressurizing, wait 1 minute per bar of pressure before beginning the test, so that in the event of a leak, the pressure is equal and water won't get in easily. Let the valve off slowly as has been mentioned, so that the pressure behind the glass isn't excessive. Keep a hand on the valve ready to adjust if needed. Make your decision on a pass/fail and pull the watch up before the pressure needle hits 0. (usually I do this just before the needle hits +1 atm). The exception to that rule, where I'd let it go completely down to zero submerged is if I do a case only test, which I only do with screw down crown watches, as I don't believe taping the crown down is the same as it normally would be. Also if you do notice a stream of bubbles that indicate a leak, don't leave it for a second longer than you need to to get the information/confirmation you need, remove the watch from the water and end the test. (again an exception if it's case only, no need for that precaution) Oh and this won't apply to many but if you have one of those basic vacuum testers as well, it's usually worth doing that quick test first, so that you can either take a clear pass result from that at face value and not wet test, take another look at the watches sealing if the result wasn't good, before wet testing. Or at least just be prepared for the fact that it's going to leak and you're testing to find where the leak is.
  12. Case Opening, How To?

    I don't think it would have been modified in that way. Practically impossible and nowhere near worth the effort for the gain. Perhaps I have them priced up wrongly in my mind. I don't believe YSL produce watches anymore? It also seems like I overestimated their value, though hard to tell as they apparently don't produce watches anymore, that I can tell.
  13. Case Opening, How To?

    Replica? I've never opened a YSL that didn't have a swiss movement in it and that is a Miyota, right?
  14. Case Opening, How To?

    For clarification, it's a simple pressed in case back, cheap way of doing things perhaps but a YSL is not a cheap watch, that's worth keeping in mind. (just at the risk of getting confused on that) There are many watches like this out there that really have no lip or entry point and are for all intents and purposes, impossible to open with the conventional case back tools. You could try getting one of these, they may or may not work well. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/bench-top-case-openers Failing that there is the 'tap method' which can either be done so wrong or so right, id hate to give remote instruction on it.
  15. Wow, way to come through, thanks for the help, that looks to be spot on, Luke.