Ishima

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Ishima last won the day on December 24 2017

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About Ishima

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  1. Loupes

    For me, personally, I find x12 to be the strongest magnification that has any practical use in a loupe, and absolutely you wouldn't use it for normal work, and then after that, you start entering the realm of wanting a microscope Depending on your preference your 'standard' eyeglass for general work, disassembly/reassembly, will probably want to be between x1.5 on the weak end of the spectrum and x3.5 on the strong side, my standard loupe is the bergeon 3.3x. I also have on my bench at arms reach a x7 I usually switch too when oiling jewels, etc. And a x12 I sometimes use, but come to think of it hardly ever, I'd use that for particularly small jewels or if I needed to inspect something especially closely. I'd also say don't bother buying cheap eyeglasses at the higher end of the magnification, a relatively imprecise cheap lens on a x3 will be much less noticeable than a cheap imprecise lense on a 12x, you need good optics at that power.
  2. How to remove dial screw

    If you drill out, you'll ruin the thread. The normal procedure would be to soak it in alum for a few days and the screw would dissolve, however, if the dials still present I'd very much hesitate to do that, any chance of a picture?
  3. seiko 11a mainspring?

    Thank you for your speedy reply rogart. I don't suppose you know the difference between th 1104a mainspring and the 11a's mainspring? (im assuming there is one, however small, as they are under different Seiko part numbers) the other thing is, I should like to get this from a supplier if possible, for business purposes.
  4. Oh i understand, you can probably still find the information you need fairly easily as i suggested, but to be more helpful: The 6l02 has an arrow pointing to a hole in which you will see the stem release leaver with the winder fully clicked in, press on this, gently, with a fine pointed tool and at the same time pull the winder out. Quartz watches like these have the dials and movements attached by simple friction between the dial feet the slots in the movement, you should be able to locate points to -- bit by bit -- lever the movement off by twisting a screw driver.
  5. Quick one, I'll probably just have to find a mainspring the hard way, by measuring, but I thought i'd check to see if if anyone knew what mainspring a seiko 11a needs. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Seiko_11A
  6. Just so you know, your battery clamp is in the wrong way. Shouldn't actually effect it, but I have to say it. I'll let someone else decide if any of those would work as alternatives but I'm assuming straight off you'll find something different that is some sort of problem. I don't want that responsibility when you'd be paying so much.
  7. Hamilton (ETA) Quartz Hour Hand Reset

    Welcome to watches and also, to mass production. $45 movement to a $400 watch is actually quite a good ratio. I try not to tell customers how much movements cost not because I'm trying to pull the wool over their eyes, but because they'd be unjustly heartbroken. Take your average, basic, Tag Heuer which you buy new at around $1,400 + it will probably have a ETA 955 series or similar, really nicely put together movements, genuinely really well made, reliable, can be serviced, and no plastic wheels, you can get them for $35. And it's a modern miracle they are capable of selling something like that at that price. The tag in my example is still a nice watch and its price tag is (arguably) justified by the design and quality of everything that is visible, hands, dial, case, bracelet etc.
  8. Attempting to fit a new movement without any watch repair knowledge or experience on a watch that means anything to you or whoever the wearer is is a recipe for a trouble You'll also need some tools, so if you're doing this purely for economic reasons then it makes more sense, in my opinion, to seek out and pay a professional for their time. That being said I'm sure you can find many guides and walkthroughs posted on the forum by other members on stem release/movement fitting on other quartz watches and go from there, no end of learning and help you can find here if you're interested in watch repair.
  9. I don't actually own kt-22 but i know what it's like, there's no way you could try to lubricate gear train jewels with it, surely. so in short no it cant stand in for 9010 or similar. Something else is probably meant? something lost in translation?
  10. Battery Isolation Discs

    You can also get packs of assorted insulators from suppliers, but yes it doesn't need to have any special properties as far as I know so something self-made should suffice.
  11. Certina DS-2 Cal. 25-651

    Wait im confused as to why im being quoted.
  12. and so it is, would have never have found that otherwise, thanks.
  13. Okay after all of that Youtube still copyright checks unlisted videos, so it got blocked. Try my dropbox upload: https://www.dropbox.com/s/q9okt2p3k51rv05/Luxerevue.com - The Parmigiani Art of Watchmaking.mp4?dl=0 By the way welcome to the forum, sorry i didn't catch your comment earlier.
  14. Yes, I thought this might happen at some point so I downloaded it to my external hard drive some time ago. I'll re-upload as an unlisted video and post the link here, might take a while.
  15. Skagen Hagen SKW 6217 BATTERY CHANGE

    oh, i just found it actually, okay looks to be regular quartz, not solar. and the front should be removable by prying off, it's also a little less expensive than i assumed so I could understand some reluctance in going through a Skagen workshop, however, I will re emphasize this could go horribly wrong for you without the right experience and tools.