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Ishima last won the day on November 8

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About Ishima

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  1. Seiko

    A picture would be handy, I cant find a picture or technical sheet for that movement.
  2. Mainspring winder for Seiko 7S26

    I had to service my Seiko, same callibre, worked the mainspring by hand. If you haven't seen this, keep in mind the barrel lid comes off a little differently to normal barrels, as shown.
  3. That's a tough one, I have every confidence with my battery replacement reseals in cousins gaskets, and the servicing i do on mechanical watches at this stage of my career tends to be on old watches that are splash proof at best anyway, so I don't think about that much. If you're working on modern expensive modern autos that are 50m and up, and you're promising them resealed then it might just be worth the extra expense, (If its quartz it will need to be resealed with the next battery change in a couple of years anyway, so dont worry) I dont think anything would come back to you in any time frame that you could take responsibility for, but given that some of these watches go a decade without anyone looking at them, the customer might find 8 years after the service they jump into a pool and it floods, now obviously thats not really your fault or responsibility, even if it could have been theoretically prevented with an expensive gasket that would degrade more slowly, you cant promise people that their watch will be waterproof for a decade without maintenance. so it shouldn't cause you any problems, but perhaps more of an ethical consideration for the owners of the watches and what they might face way off down the line and whether that hypothetical situation would cause you to lose any sleep. To answer more directly, as chopin says they're a bit better, but not 8 times better.
  4. Removing barrel lid

    Hand fitting mainsprings is really tricky. Unless you have experience removing and refitting mainsprings on scrappers or know what mainspring would replace it when you damage it, I suggest you open the barrel and attempt to clean and lubricate the spring without removing it, of course, thats not ideal, but much better than mangling the spring or being unable to refit it at all. Especially the case for smaller calibers/barrels. I think i must have practiced for many hours in total, repeatedly removing and refitting the mainspring, with about 10 different mainspring barrels on scrappers before I felt confident to do it for real, and I was long into the habit of wearing safety glasses due to unexpectedly losing grip at the wrong moment and it exploding out of my hand. ...maybe I was just a slow learner.
  5. Lucien Piccard Cal 37?

    Not got experience with Lucien Picard but i would have assumed the 'f54642' to be the calibre number, i could be wrong. The part you've circled in red is actually the centre wheel pivot, the stem release on this is not a button but a screw, the small one closest to the edge of the movement, nearest the stem, It does not screw out of the movement or need to be turned a great dea to release the stem. turn it too much and the setting leaver will fall off the bottom.
  6. HMT

    Noirrac has the right of it, I think. If you pry off the bezel now you should find it will all fall out through the front.
  7. Omega 484 crown issue

    Am I right in saying that the signed crown is a dust-proof crown? (has a spring loaded collar) If so they're only meant to be fitted to cases without case tubes, just a hole. I couldn't tell you how the case is supposed to be or where to get the right crown, but unless i miss my mark the crown on the left is completely unsuitable, you'd have to remove the case tube, which looks to be very wide, leaving a hole much larger than the dustproof collar can cover.
  8. Which TimeGrapher?

    When it came time for me to buy mine I just went on to ebay and got one of many basic timegraphers sold there, believe my model is the no.1000, which looks to be 120, so pretty slap bang in your range. It works well, has decent build quality, it measures rate, amplitude and beat error, and has a mute so you dont have to hear it tick, a pause function and some other more advanced options such as manual paramater settings and lift angle settings. I have no complaints.
  9. taking apart a Seiko 5Y23

    If you have hand levers (as in two separate levers not the modern presto type tool) you can remove this in a similar manner to hands, to pry it directly up, you may be able to improvise with screwdrivers otherwise, but that's the method, first time i saw this I thought it had to be pulled apart somehow like other C-clips but no, it pries up and off and is then pressed directly back down again to be refitted.
  10. Your best luck would be a 'clasp extender' a lot of repairers don't even really know about them, but I know that UK watch repair supplier, cousins, provides extensions that can be fitted on to the clasp that effectively makes the strap bigger. They can be a little tricky to fit but I've done this for customers many times, it works well enough. Also you have another problem, the second hand has fallen off.
  11. Fitting A New Watch Stem.

    I recently figured out you can most conveniently measure up the length of stem you're cutting once after measuring that gap between case and crown, leave your vernier on that measurement and adjust the amount of stem visible in the pin vice to match the depth prong that protrudes from the bottom of the vernier.
  12. Quartz watches and demagnetizers

    I only assumed it wasn't because i got a million different results and couldn't find anything conclusive for that number.
  13. ETA 2892a2

    I can say I've been there, "oh no, why is it at that time?.. that's not even remotely right, the time is actually... oh ...nevermind"
  14. Quartz watches and demagnetizers

    Put this way: you wont do any harm either way, so it's up to you. I must say I'm not quite sure what movement that has off the top of my head, can you tell me the movement number? (just incase i have anything more helpful to add) Unless that is also the calibre number? Picture maybe if you care to.
  15. Quartz watches and demagnetizers

    Sounds like you know your electronics ecodec! but to clarify: moving the watch (or whatever object) away from the demag slowly is for the purpose of using the demag for its intended purpose, to remove magnetism, right? or is there a reason I should be doing this anyway? With my demag i don't get this rapid hand progression effect unless the watch is kept lying on the demag, usually at 'sweet spot'.