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Ishima last won the day on February 16 2018

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About Ishima

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  1. Sometimes adding some rotation can help stems slip into place. However if it really wont engage properly... Looking at the service sheet and going off of previous experiences I can only guess part of the setting lever mechanism has slipped out if place. very difficult to access on this movement, most of it is dial side beneath a lot of calender work etc. it may be worth a look top side as its relatively easy to reach it that side, but theres very little there to see or play with that might help you.
  2. Hi everyone, you won't believe how silly this is, it dawned on me in the shower... I'm talking about a 12hr sub dial... for the stop watch... Not a 24hr sub dial for the time keeping... there was never a problem to begin with, i just completly misunderstood what i was dealing with.
  3. I would assume a new movement to come properly lubricated from the manufacturer. Also modern lubricants aren't prone to significant change from being at rest and uncontaminated by dirt or moisture. That being said if you have a timegrapher, you can use that for peace of mind, if you get a decent amplitude when you wind it up and run it, that strongly indicates a that the oils are good and the watch is properly lubricated. Though, with seiko movements realise they're well known for running at slightly lower amplitudes, and also note that you may need to search for the movements 'lift angle
  4. A stock photo for what it's worth. (The problem is not visually apparent on my movement anyway) I may have answered my own question however while writing this, reading the service sheet for this movement there's this section... I'm not aware that i touched this coil at any point but If they feel the need to mention its particular sensitivity... and if the gear train has lost all its driving force... It would seem like a reasonable assumption that i accidentally touched, and damaged this coil with something. The good news is the old movement had no such fault in its 12hr function, I sh
  5. Hi everyone, i was carrying out a ronda 5030.d module exchange and somewhere along the line i must have upset the 12h gear train as it stopped turning with the hands. I took the gear train apart to check it but i can see nothing obviously wrong with any of it. Does anyone have any pointers, thank you.
  6. Oh that's a nice movement if i'm looking at the correct service sheet. To be honest i only have limited experience in this area and that with lower end seiko movements, however they have similar calendar works. The most obvious thing is wear or damage on the day jumper (part 873610) might not have the correct tension to hold it. Failing that i've often had to play about with how firmly pressed down the day ring c clip is. (if indeed it is pressed down and not in a groove) Is there any difference in how the calendar behaves when changing day/date vs turning the hands to advance the ca
  7. Right, of course. they're meant to pass for tourbillons but it is a bit insulting to tourbillons to call them that.
  8. Tricky, If i'm not mistaken this is one of those chinese tourbillon movements. I can find no other information about it, parts don't appear to be sold anywhere obvious. I'd suggest you probably have two avenues. 1. Get a stem extension. There's really not a lot of thread left on the tip of that stem, so it's not ideal, but it might work. Stem extensions can be obtained by virtually any watch part supplier. 2. Cousin's has a page of chinese stems with detailed information about the various dimensions, you might be able to take measurements with a vernier guage, and it might match up
  9. This is a bit tricky, Animal, as far as i'm aware, have never actually supplied spare parts for their watches. I don't know if generic replacement bezels are a thing, but I've seen a website before that supplies entire generic watch cases, so i can't be sure one way or the other. You might try eBay or something to look for another second hand version of this watch and cannibalise the bezel off of that. Why exactly do you need to replace the bezel, is it outwardly damaged and worn or is it the click on it has gone? because you might be able to do something with the spring underneath th
  10. While i certainly don't know everything... I've never heard of a deteriorated caseback gasket causing that much trouble, i struggle to imagine it could. Also never heard of the technique of 'boiling a watch case back off' that sounds kind of... completely insane. Not to challenge their expertise, this may just be a case of "make something up that sounds convincing" because the truth is either too complicated or awkward to explain. I don't know what to suggest than to keep looking around for other good repairers, I doubt this watch is impossible to open.
  11. Time for a long shot. Does anybody poses or know where i could obtain parts for this otherwise obsolete movement, particularly the circuitry, im not aware that any wheels or such are in disrepair. For reasons unbeknownst to me my boss keeps maintaining an expectation of an eventual repair with the customer, while doing nothing to pursue it, trying to interveen for the customers sake.
  12. Nope, i mean file. I'll give you an example, adjusting a bracelet end piece so that it will fit a watch where a customer has lost that crucial part that attached at the case, the opening is too narrow for the bracelet by a milimeter or two, and the piece is not strong and is shaped awkwardly to resist any easy way of securing it with a vice, and you cant very well effectively hold it in your hand, so if you use shellac or mouldable plastic you could secure the piece to a plate of metal that could then be placed in a vice.
  13. Generally speaking this is one of the harder parts of quartz watch assembly. You may find it helpful to use non steel tweezers for the stepping motor (brass, normally) Sometimes you can just get them in place with a bit of precision and persistence. Other times your problems are exacerbated by a lose 'stator' the magnetic plate surrounding the stepping motor. and you may need to secure it somehow during the assembly, until everything's back in place and the stator is secured by the rest of the parts. Sometimes you're better off putting on the gear train bridge with the screws not sc
  14. That's unfortunate, but don't despair. You can approach this in two ways, if you're nervous about trying anything with the block... well... if it came out it should mean there's a way back in without that, but it is harder, i've only had to do it one time, the slot barely showing proud of main-plate by a micron, you need to use rodico to handle the spring, and peg-wood to make adjustments, poking it here and there, and just try to slide it back in somehow, that is once you've located the opening. (at least that's how i did it) Another time i did have to use a staking set to partially pu
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