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Ishima last won the day on February 16 2018

Ishima had the most liked content!


About Ishima

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    Super WRT Addict

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  1. Well it partly depends on the watch, they suite military style watches like... well, funnily enough, i was going to say CWC's. In my collection, I have an all black CWC with black nato and it looks exactly like something you'd see on a SWAT team members' wrist or something like that. Certainly, a bracelet or leather strap would not suite it, it has solid lugs besides so fitting anything else is difficult.
  2. I believe there was a discussion recently about how this kind of tool and work is obsolete (its a little over my head so i could be wrong) but apparently you don't really buy generic hairsprings and vibrate them yourself anymore. He may appreciate it anyway for whatever practical value it has its probably a very nice piece of watchmaking equipment.
  3. this is kinetic with a missing rotor. the cells aren't meant to just be replaced and disposed of regularly. there meant to be continuously charged through motion. that's your problem.
  4. you should be able to get mineral glasses cheaply enough that its no problem ordering the size you think it is as well as the size above and below that in case your measurement was slightly off. As chopin suggests cousins is a good source, but i imagine if they can offer glasses that cheaply, others can to, even the branded 'sternkreuz' arent that much more expensive. The only issue is the thickness is a little unusual, I imagine either a 1mm or a 1.3 would not be noticeably different. if you have any of the glass left position it and judge whether you'd rather have it a hairsbreadth prouder or shyer.
  5. actually its the V-shaped cut away above the O in Seiko, the lever is SS. if you want some really detailed information: http://www.thewatchsite.com/files/Seiko Technical Manuals/1N00A_1N01A.pdf some of the pages illustrate the keyless work well.
  6. seiko 1no1 or 1n00 something, right? There is a very tiny lever on this (to the left of the stem if looking at it with the stem and crown pointing away from you) that for some reason is virtually impossible to operate unless you loosen the screw near the steam a couple of turns even then its tricky. Add to that you have a rusty stem and you might be in for a challenging time. If it's just a pragmatic thing for you id say better to replace it than clean it, if fun is a factor knock yourself out but this is a tricky one so expect problems. that being said, good luck.
  7. Be 100% certain there is no seem on either case back or bezel before proceeding, as avion alludes to, I do not think it would have "remove with blade" printed on it for no reason.
  8. some information can be found here, inlcuding hand sizes http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&ETA-ESA_959_001 I did try to find you a technical/service sheet but to no avail, but my search wasn't exhaustive.
  9. doesnt look like a screw back case, perhaps a one-piece case where glass and winder are removed to de case.
  10. I doubt you'll find these bracelets for sale, I've not seen them at least, and they're kind of designed in tandem with the watch case, I doubt they would interchange well.
  11. old hippy is right, but for clarification high dome acrylics = crystal lift, low domes = press, but the method is different from pressing a mineral/sapphire/tension ring, with a low dome acrylic you basically have to use the dies to make the crystal curl in on itself slightly, then slip the case/bezel into position and then release the pressure so that it locks in place to the bezel/case. It's probably been properly demonstrated or explained somewhere around the forum before, but i could just imagine someone trying to puzzle that out from scratch.
  12. The procedure is in the book 'The staking set and how to use it' i believe there's a free .pdf somewhere if you need it, it has been posted on the forum before. Only thing is the hour hand coming loose might be a direct result of the loose dial.
  13. The correct procedure utilizes a staking set, but not everyone has one. I'm not sure about improvised methods but adhesive substances are a poor idea.
  14. The movement will be obsolete. It may be possible for a watchmaker to find, adapt and fit something else with similar specifications. However, with this watch, the calendar is likely to be a problem, since its difficult to get a movement that has calendar wheels that match up well with the existing calendar windows.
  15. I don't think you're likely to come across a watch movement that hasn't been lubricated, and the oil once applied theoretically doesn't evaporate. What does usually happen is the oil thickens or otherwise loses its properties. It's a safe assumption that some sort of oil in some sort of condition is present. As far as I'm aware there's no trick to knowing the condition of the lubrication other than general inspection, testing how well the winder functions and looking for low amplitude on your timegrapher (which i like to stress is only an indication and might mean something else or might mean nothing at all)
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