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Ishima last won the day on February 16 2018

Ishima had the most liked content!


About Ishima

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    Super WRT Addict

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  1. Well at the very least i can get in some practice for the next thing when i had back into work. Thanks.
  2. Almost zero experience with removing and refitting bezels, it's a blindspot for me and ive always considered it too hair-raising, i'd rather let my companies' central workshop deal with the odd bezel issue, don't even have tools specific for bezel work, neither do I have an s-14 tool or simular, Im not exactly sure how inexpensive they are, but at the end of the day I'm only trying to carry out a battery change. (in theory, it might need more than that given its age) In short I just don't feel like there's a lot of profit in it for the cost and risk, better to focus on the other jobs i have and send this one up. Actually, I'm kind of tempted to fix that blindspot now. got plenty of scrap watches to practice on, what's the minimum set of tools you'd suggest?
  3. Thanks for the help everyone but I think by whats being suggested it would be wisest for me to admit defeat here. At least I learnt something.
  4. Hi everyone I have been left with a citizen crystron. It appears to be a one piece case indeed im certain theres no seem between the "case back" and case. Ive done many one piece watches however this being a bit rare and a 600m water resistant watch (im thinking the glass will be near impossible to blow out withof air pressure) id really like to see if anyone had any experience or insights with these before I commit to trying to open it.
  5. Hello everyone its been a long time since I posted anything, hope youre all well. I could use some help finding out what the correct capacitor for a citizen j810m movement should be. I dont have the old one to go by and cousins only lists a stem as a part they have for it. I can neither find other information or documents. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks.
  6. Well it partly depends on the watch, they suite military style watches like... well, funnily enough, i was going to say CWC's. In my collection, I have an all black CWC with black nato and it looks exactly like something you'd see on a SWAT team members' wrist or something like that. Certainly, a bracelet or leather strap would not suite it, it has solid lugs besides so fitting anything else is difficult.
  7. I believe there was a discussion recently about how this kind of tool and work is obsolete (its a little over my head so i could be wrong) but apparently you don't really buy generic hairsprings and vibrate them yourself anymore. He may appreciate it anyway for whatever practical value it has its probably a very nice piece of watchmaking equipment.
  8. this is kinetic with a missing rotor. the cells aren't meant to just be replaced and disposed of regularly. there meant to be continuously charged through motion. that's your problem.
  9. you should be able to get mineral glasses cheaply enough that its no problem ordering the size you think it is as well as the size above and below that in case your measurement was slightly off. As chopin suggests cousins is a good source, but i imagine if they can offer glasses that cheaply, others can to, even the branded 'sternkreuz' arent that much more expensive. The only issue is the thickness is a little unusual, I imagine either a 1mm or a 1.3 would not be noticeably different. if you have any of the glass left position it and judge whether you'd rather have it a hairsbreadth prouder or shyer.
  10. actually its the V-shaped cut away above the O in Seiko, the lever is SS. if you want some really detailed information: http://www.thewatchsite.com/files/Seiko Technical Manuals/1N00A_1N01A.pdf some of the pages illustrate the keyless work well.
  11. seiko 1no1 or 1n00 something, right? There is a very tiny lever on this (to the left of the stem if looking at it with the stem and crown pointing away from you) that for some reason is virtually impossible to operate unless you loosen the screw near the steam a couple of turns even then its tricky. Add to that you have a rusty stem and you might be in for a challenging time. If it's just a pragmatic thing for you id say better to replace it than clean it, if fun is a factor knock yourself out but this is a tricky one so expect problems. that being said, good luck.
  12. Be 100% certain there is no seem on either case back or bezel before proceeding, as avion alludes to, I do not think it would have "remove with blade" printed on it for no reason.
  13. some information can be found here, inlcuding hand sizes http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&ETA-ESA_959_001 I did try to find you a technical/service sheet but to no avail, but my search wasn't exhaustive.
  14. doesnt look like a screw back case, perhaps a one-piece case where glass and winder are removed to de case.
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