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Found 18 results

  1. Hello, I have been trying to find a way to remove the ETA 2892-A2 movement out of this Rado Diamaster watch. The case back is surprisingly a snap-on, and after removing the stem and case clamps, expected it to fall out onto my casing cushion. However, the movement seems stuck solid in the case. It does seem to have a synthetic movement retaining ring (if that's what it is) but I'm not sure how to remove it without risking damage as it's not shifting with gentle encouragement. I'm also wondering whether the movement has to come out from the crystal side, but since it's a sapphire crystal, I'm doubting that too. Has anyone else had any experience with removing this movement from the case please? Photos show what I'm working on.
  2. I recently acquired an Illinois pocket watch that appears to have a screw on front and back. I was able to unscrew the front with great effort. A lot of dirt and grime dropped out. I need to get the back off. There are no grab points so, I have tried a rubber ball and failed. If it was a bolt, I would use heat, but that’s not an option. I am afraid to use penetrating oil for fear of damaging the porcelain face. I am assuming that the watch is in the 100 year old range but won’t know until I get the serial number off the movement. it is clear, the case has not been opened in a very long time. What is the best way to open it?
  3. Hello everyone, I have a problem in casing a Bulova 11 ANACD movement. I attach some pictures of the parts. Since it was an eBay find, there's some possibility that something was really messed up. When cased, the movement (with its ring), slips down toward the crystal. It's tilted in a way that makes difficult to operate the crown. Movement, movement ring, dial seems a perfect match but they fall down with no support from dial side... I have: the white movement ring (seems to be a perfect fit for the movement, maybe not for the case?) Acrylic glass, diam. 31.6 with an inner chromed ring. The ring is totally loose in respect to the glass, meaning that you can remove the ring by simply flipping the crystal and it slips out. It has outer diam. about 29,7 mm, inner about 28mm. I think it's not the original one! Case, diam. 38 mm, opening about 29,3mm. about 31,44mm for the crystal recess. Inner back says model 7313. Dial diam. 28,5mm I've found an original crystal for case model 7313-4, maybe in the original Bulova the dial rest on the crystal ring? Is this the correct casing for that kind of Bulova's? Can the problem be solved by using the correct crystal with tension ring? If so, which Sternkreuz model should I buy: standard ring, wide ring, recessed ring? Thank you very much, Regards.
  4. Hello everyone, I've bought on eBay a nice cortebert watch that works but has space all around the dial between it and the case, just under the crystal. See attached photo. Is it a Frankenwatch or I can save it using a crystal with tension ring? If this is the case, which Sternkreuz model should I buy: standard ring, wide ring, recessed ring? If it's the case, which additional measures should I take on the watch, other than crystal diameter, to make the right choice? Thank you very much. Regards!
  5. I recently found an movement in my grandparents attic and it has no case, I'm having trouble identifying what it is and where to get a replacement case as i do not have any prior experience with watches. It's about 20mm in diameter and from horus. Any help is appreciated
  6. Hi I'm working on a diver watch named : Philly Master Mariner I join a photo of the dial The question is about the case what do you advise I know it's very personal to restore or not a case some do it other prefer to keep it as is as more authentic. But here I've in dilemma, the face is not too bad but the back and side are very damaged So your advises are welcomed even if someone tell me don't think about it because it'll be a catastrophic failure Thanks
  7. Hi So I followed Mark course and I would like to use the ST3600 to build a custom watch. I've already buy a case on the photo. but I've some questions: What need to be the size of the dial when i measure inside the case there is multiple level each of them have different size like 33.61, 35.56, 36.51, 37.32 from bottom to top What need to be the size of the hands of if it matters at all. The case come without any casing ring or lung so what I'm supposed to use to secure the movement into the case ? Thanks
  8. Hi, I hope you all are fine Those days I found an old omega f300 cone case sleeping on the drawer polished as a mirror when I bough it, many years ago cheap as scrap. I decided to give it a try and among other tasks, rescue it's finish, and discovered that it's impossible to do it by hand, each run marks his scratches in a different direction giving even worse impression than mirror polish, so decided to take the challenge of scratching it in a radial and homogeneous pattern. I read somewhere a post about redoing an Omega cone surface, and found it really difficult, doing supports, regulators and so on, and requiring even a grinding machine, impossible and not to inspiring for me. Saw even someone using a dremel that took the hell out of me. Below it's the simple contraption that allowed to do it, maybe you can find it useful for your projects, it's cheap, easy to build and makes the redo a piece of cake. All the secret is to guarantee that sanding paper (or whatever you use) attacks the surface always in the same "radial" direction, this is impossible if you grab the case or sand paper by hand, any minor deviation will shine as a photo flash ruining the look. So to do it you may elaborate a complex rotating support, or take a simpler approach. As the watch is round, almost any "support" that "fills" the case will allow to rotate it around that position keeping the angle and relative position of the case. So with just a few sticks laying around I've been able to "build" a really simple "fill" to firmly support the case in a fixed position, allowing it to rotate freely but preventing any displacement up down, right or left, so keeping the case in the same relative angle no matter how much you rotate it. The second challenge was to make a sanding "device" to scratch the cone wall without any lateral displacement, so, just up and down motion along the cone wall, with any lateral distraction. Again an old lumber piece and a single carpenter clamp did the trick. Below are a few photos of the job, cheap, easy and efficient, I hope you find it useful. It was fun to repair a watch case with lumber, sand paper and carpenter tools, still thinking what use give to the hammer. My apologies, but don't know how to lay the photos in their place Ask if any doubt. Cheers and take care Ricardo
  9. I've got a Poljot de Luxe that I'm trying to work on. I can remove the case back and see the movement, but this looks to be a front loader. There appears to be a thin bezel holding the acrylic crystal in place, but no place to insert a case knife or other tool. I don't want to damage the case fighting with it. Here are some stock images, including one with the bezel/crystal removed. My watch appears to be identical to these. Does anyone have experience working on these cases?
  10. I have a beautiful Wittnauer 11arg movement that I bought off a jewler for 10 dollars. I figured that I could easily find a suitable case to fit the movement. To this date I have been unable to find a home for this movement. A year ago I ordered a case off of ebay that matched with my movement. When the package arrived at my house it was empty. The Wittnauer 11arg movement is based off an as 1361. Does anybody know where I can find obscure parts/ know where I can get a suitable case?
  11. So ive been wanting to build my own watch for a while after having worked on my own watches for quite some time. The only apprehension i have is how does one size a dial to fit a case. Lets say i have a miyota 8215 a 41 mm cade that fits that movement would a 31 mm dial fit that case? I guess my question is how does one tell if a dial will fit a case. I understand all cases are different
  12. Hello I had a chance to acquire to two watch movement+dial sets which are from JLC and AP However, I am having trouble finding cases to fit these. Could anyone help me find cases that would fit these movements? Non genuine cases are OK.
  13. Hi, Can anyone help? I have a watch case that will exactly fit an ETA7751 movement but I cannot source or afford the movement. So I am on the lookout for an equivalent movement but am new to this. Can anyone advise which I should go for? Thanks.
  14. Got me this Omega DeVille quartz on a fleamarket. I think it has a cal 1365. I was wondering how to get the movement out of the caseback....
  15. Hello all! I got my hands on a 15j Unitas 6497, and I would like to case it: Could you provide any sources of 41mm or less cases? I found something on Ofrei (http://www.ofrei.com/page1494.html), but I was wondering if there wouldn't be any smaller cases that would fit a 6497? Thank you, Bogdan
  16. Yesterday I realized that probably, while mounting the new crystal to my GMT I may have unflattened the case back as in the picture. I used this kind of screw press to do the job and now the case back looks like this, a little pressed inside. The rotor is not affected and is moving freely, my idea is to remove the back and use the same press to try get the thning more flat. What do you think? I wasn't aware this stainless steel back could be so easily deformed.
  17. Had a broken case lug on this vintage watch today. I soldered it back together and thought I would make a video of my method.
  18. I received a vintage watch attached for a service. The movement is sitting loosely inside the case. I am looking for advice on how to fix the movement in the case so that it doesn't move around. Thanks guys, Ferdinand
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