Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'dial'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • WATCH REPAIR DISCUSSIONS
    • Watch Repairs Help & Advice
    • Your Walkthroughs and Techniques
    • Showcase Your Achievements
    • Watch Repair Tools & Equipment
    • Watch or Horology Related Videos
    • Clock Corner
  • WRT LOUNGE
    • WRT News & Announcements
    • Introduce Yourself Here
    • Your Watch Collection
    • Chat About Watches & The Industry Here
    • Relax Zone: Chat About Anything Here
    • Help & Support With This Website
  • WATCH REPAIR TUTORIALS & INFORMATION
    • Watch Repair Course
    • Watch Parts and Tools Suppliers
    • Resources and Articles

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 18 results

  1. Hi So I followed Mark course and I would like to use the ST3600 to build a custom watch. I've already buy a case on the photo. but I've some questions: What need to be the size of the dial when i measure inside the case there is multiple level each of them have different size like 33.61, 35.56, 36.51, 37.32 from bottom to top What need to be the size of the hands of if it matters at all. The case come without any casing ring or lung so what I'm supposed to use to secure the movement into the case ? Thanks
  2. I've got an old Nvidia Ladies Watch with an ETA 2360 movement that I'm trying to get up and running. The movement looks nice and in good shape and luckily I also have som spare parts lying around. The dial is mounted with tiny screws on the sude of the movement. There seems to have been som moisture ingress into the movement since I can see traces of rust and, of course, one if the dial screws has rusted pretty bad so I'm unable too remove the dial. I can see the groove in the screw and I can fit a screwdiver there but the screw is really stuck. I've tried putting some WD40 on it and letting it soak for a day but to no avail. How can I remove the screw ? I have extra screws if needed so I don't need the stuck screw.
  3. Hi all, I'm getting really close to manufacturing my first run of custom dials. I'm not ready to share a lot of details yet, but I would sincerely appreciate some advice on adhesives. My dials will be featuring a 0.25 mm height steel chapter ring attached directly to the top of the dial material. I'm certainly not planning anything stupid like using cyanoacrylate glue to bond the chapter rings to the dials. I'm hoping for something low viscosity that can be applied carefully and will take a bit of time to set before curing. I'm looking for low viscosity because of the tight tolerances involved; height matters a lot here. I'm hoping for something that will be at least a little bit malleable, as I will need to align the chapter rings manually before they set and cure. (I really, really wish I could build some feet into the chapter rings and put them into alignment holes on the dial, but that's not possible for reasons that will become apparent once I disclose the dial material. I will need to align the chapter rings based on the stem location and with the aide of a spare crystal-less case that has an indexed bezel I'll be fixing in place.) Right now, I'm looking at GS Crystal Hypo Cement as the best potential adhesive. It should give me 10-15 seconds of manipulation before it sets, and I hope that I can use a small enough quantity in a few key places to keep the chapter ring secure and as flush as possible to the dial surface. Another alternative would be a two-part epoxy that I've thinned with alcohol or acetone. Since I don't need a hugely strong bond, the fact that solvent will weaken the epoxy isn't a huge concern. Thinning the epoxy with solvent would also extend its curing time, and I really don't want to have to try to hold down the chapter ring in perfect alignment by hand for an extended period of time before it sets. Please let me know what the best way to proceed here would be. Specific brand recommendations are especially appreciated. Of course I can practice, but due to the cost and difficulty of prepping the dial materials, I'd prefer to minimize losing materials here and to get my process right quickly. Thanks in advance for any advice, Dan (I've been documenting my research, design, and manufacturing steps to date and will be sharing information about my project when I am closer to the finish. This has been a fascinating journey into horology, lapidary, woodworking, CAD, and laser cutting for me.)
  4. Hello, I'm building a watch using a Sellita SW200 and I bought an ETA 2824 dial. The dial has four feet and so does my movement, but they don't line up, the ones on the dial are too far apart relative to the movement. I think if I cut off two feet I can make it fit but I'm not 100% sure. Is this a common scenario?
  5. All, After some exposure to the ETA/Unitas 6497/8 movements (from Mark's courses) - I have become interested in "making" (assembling) a few wristwatches using those movements. I would really like to find (or have made) a simple dial like this (attached) - except for a 6498. Not an exact copy - of course. But something with the same "vib" (light cream color with green lume markers). Does anyone know anyone that would make a one-off custom? Or has anyone seen something like this? Many thanks and kind regards, -Paul
  6. Hi all, I recently acquired a very busted up AR1798 with all the hands unseated. Initially I assumed that the repair would be as simple as popping off the back of the case, flipping the dial out and reseating the hands. However, much to my dismay it appears that the dial is slightly larger than the opening and cannot be pulled out the back of the watch. I then looked towards the bezel and hoped that popping that off would grant me access to the front of the dial but alas that too proved futile. Though the bezel did indeed come off, there still appears to be no way of prying off the front of the watch - looks like the bezel was just glued on for decoration... Any ideas before I throw this into a draw and forget about it? Cheers! Watch back w movement removed Profile of watch with bezel attached Profile of watch with bezel removed (There's no seam to use to pry off the front, lighting makes it looks like there is)
  7. Hi All, Just a bit of fun.. I ask here about find a replacement dial for my L'Epee, and Oldhippy gave me a contact for repairing, well I wrote off and ask if it could be repair and a cost if possible..Well Today I got a reply saying Yes they can repair it. So what do you think the cost would be?? photo as below..I was very surprised that they could repair it, given the state of this dial..
  8. I'll show how to make a shield with enamel. Today, copper shield. I invite :-) Będę pisał po Polsku - gdyby interesowało proszę używać translatora. 1. Cięcie miedzi. 2. Wycinanie krążka 3. Czyszczenie w kwasie 4. Wypalanie 1 5. Wypalanie 2 6. Gotowe podkłady 7 Efekt końcowy 8. Bezel 9. Gotowy podkład do cloisonne 10. Nałożenie drutów 11. Wypełnienie emalią 12. Wypalanie 760 C ok 8-20 razy Finał Tarcza powstaje ok 40 godzin. Pozdrawiam serdecznie Leszek Kralka
  9. Hello everyone, I bought a Marlin 1963 with a number 22 movement that was not running. I cleaned it and oiled the pivots, (used the service manuals I got on a Timex forum, really helpful). It is working amazingly well now, very proud. Also, I think someone tried to oil the watch, to get it running, and it leaked on to the dial. I tried cleaning the dial, which only did more harm than good. Furthermore, me opening and closing the watch, two of the nubs holding the dial in place broke off. I am looking for a replacement dial, but until I find one, does anyone maybe have advise on how to hold the dial in place? Thanks
  10. Hello, I would like to request some direction. I have a vintage Tag Heuer Formula 1 that I am need to replace the movement on. I have the stem out, movement out, hands off, but I need a nudge in the right direction on how to remove the dial? I think it is a Harley Ronda Movement HQ705, its marked with Tag Heuer 3.88 . Can anyone help? Thanks!
  11. Can anyone help? I have a NOS Certina C017.407A watch case and I need a 35mm DS Caimano dial but I have had no luck in finding where I can buy one. I have tried Cousins in the UK. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Ideally need a new or NOS dial or good second hand one. Movement wise the case will take Eta 2824 (2824-2/A2 etc.) & Sellita SW200-1 Thanks in advance for any help. Ian.
  12. Hello, until now I have only relumed some hands but now I have to relume a dial for a Landeron 248 project. The original lume was only 12 tiny dots at the end of the minute markers, diametre a bit smaller than 1 millimeter. How can I create such little dots and insure that all of them become the same size? Which tools/techniques do you use? Thanks in advance.
  13. Hi, Can anyone point me in the right direction to where I can economically buy a Valjoux ETA 7751 movement, dial, hands, day/date and moon phase dials? I am based in the U.K.
  14. Hi all, I got kinda jealous when I read a bunch of posts about people using Photoshop or InDesign to mock up dials and print them on decals etc... I mean, I know the real way to refinish a dial is to send it to the professionals, but I've been wanting to try to make some of the cheap and cheerful Bulovas I do be a bit more presentable before I wear them... Been wanting to try some diy approaches, but I always get stopped by the first task: removing the dial markers / indices. The few posts I've read about diy dial restoration speak about using a pin or tweezers to push the dial markers out from the back... but the vintage Bulova dials I see have totally smooth brass backs with no sign of marker feet or anything... so how do the dial refinishers remove them? Are they riveted on somehow? are they held on by varnish or something??? Anybody know? Here's a pic of the kind of thing I'm talking about - hopefully someone out there knows how the dial people remove these little markers (and replace them)... inquiring minds want to know
  15. Hi Everyone! I'm an aspiring watch collector. I've just started, and I'm only just looking for watch that really catch my eye with movements that I find interesting, and are within budget. Right now, I'm looking at a Junghans Max Bill Automatic. Model: Max Bill Reference: 27.3500 Case No.: 706 Movement: Automatic / Automatic Basic Cal. ETA 2824-2 Case Material: Steel As you can see below, the watch is pre-owned and is showing a lot of use. That in itself is not a problem; I love how characterful well-worn watches look. But the dial on this watch is, in my feeling, beginning to affect the usability. A watch to me is first and foremost a tool; the dial is at that point where it is starting to prevent the wearer from getting the most use from that tool. My question is this: Will this kind of scratching / damage likely come off with cleaning and general servicing? And if not, are there places where I can source a replacement dial for it? I've briefly googled for replacement dials, but I haven't found any so far. Suggestions would be awesome. Thanks!
  16. Since June 8th will be my B-Day, and if all goes well I will also become father for the first time (well, that will probably NOT happen on the same day, but I can still wish, can't I?) I decided to pull the trigger on a watch I liked on eBay. The only issue is that I did so, while surfing the site with my mobile phone, so the pictures were rather small... Are you starting to get the picture of the issue, here? Fact is, that after analyzing the seller pics on my PC, I started noticing "strange" things... I will leave the pics talk for themselves... The movement looks ok, as does the case, the permanent seconds hand and minute counter are detached from their pinions, but that was declared in the auction, so no issue. The issue is that the dial markings appear not to match. Check the tachymeter marking for "60" which logically should be directly over and properly aligned with the 12 hour marking. Is it the picture angle that plays tricks on my eyes, or is it a bit shifted to the right?? I have not received the watch yet, so a personal inspection is yet to be made. Could eventually this be a reason to give the watch back? No mentio on a redial on the auction text... What do you experts think?
  17. Hi, my first posting, I will try not to step on any ones toes! First thanks to Mark for his videos, they are an insiration. My question is about an Orator chronometer I have been cleaning, it has a Landeron 47 movement. The dial is severly corroded (see photo) and probably not reconditionable. There is an Orator dial from a Landeron 48 movement advertised in the States, quoted as 33mm dia. My 47 movement dial is 34.5mm dia. Any idea if the dials are interchangeable between the two Landeron movements? Or where I might find a dial or maybe a reconditioner?
  18. Hi, just wondering if there is any special technique to repairing the paint on my watch bezel. If managed to catch it a few times and the silver beneath has started to show. Thanks in advance.
×
×
  • Create New...