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About LeeReynolds

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  1. Overview This is my first attempt at resurrecting a broken mechanical watch. Bought this on ebay for a total cost of $20.00. The seller had acquired it from a retired watchmaker's estate and it was definitely not working. I don't know the exact age, but it's certainly nothing recent. The movement suggests 1960's. It is a man's watch, but is the same size as the ladies automatic my wife has. I'm including the "before" pictures from the ebay listing and a couple of pictures of the watch now that I've got it working. First impression When I first opened the watch, I h
  2. Looking more closely, this is an FHF 72 movement. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&69&2uswk&FHF_72 The balance spins freely. The winding works turn freely. The "click" works, but no tension is being added to the mainspring. I suspect the mainspring is broken.
  3. I was able to get it open Pulling off the crystal, there was a second bezel around the inside which needed to be removed. Once it was gone, there was a small lever visible between the dial and the case which needed to be moved. This released the stem. Once it was gone, the movement came out easily. I don't have a great camera for close up photos, so i can't easily show the location of the lever. But, if you are looking down on the dial, it will be at about 4:30 when it is locked. A small screwdriver will allow you to side it up towards the stem, unlocking the movemen
  4. I've got a watch whose back does not appear to open -- at all. I've looked around the edge of the case-back with a 10x loupe, searching for a place to stick a case knife, to no avail. I'm able to pull the front bezel and crystal off, but that is all. The watch appears to be a front-loader, but there is no way to release the crown that I can see. Is anyone here familiar with how to open this kind of case?
  5. Thanks For some reason I didn't think cousins sold to US buyers. ( Did I mention I'm a total newbie? ) Good to know that they do.
  6. I think I might have found the answer to my own question: http://www.ofrei.com/page1017.html
  7. I've managed to lose a screw to the watch I'm working on. Not sure how, but it is gone. I've found a replacement : http://www.ofrei.com/page1418.html ( Plate/Bridge Screw ) However, at almost $4 a pop, I think this is kind of expensive for a single screw. So my question is this: What is a good online source for assorted watch movement/case screws? I'm looking on Ebay and keep finding kits for eyeglasses.
  8. What is this tool called that he's using to determine that the 2nd wheel is wobbling? Sorry to have to ask what must be an obvious question for those with more experience, but I've never seen this tool before or heard it referenced.
  9. I figured out what is wrong with the original movement in this watch. It's balance cock is warped. The portion of the cock that holds the end jewels is curved upwards slightly for some reason, which means that the angle between it and the balance wheel stem is not 90 degrees. Hence low amplitude. I discovered this after doing a complete service on the movement, including the end stones, which did nothing to improve the movement's performance. So I've ordered another 10 scrap movements from Etsy since none of the good balances I have are a match for this one. I'd prefer to p
  10. I'm 99.9% sure. Some of the movements I stripped down had dial feet still stuck in the main plates. These feet were in there snug. The dial feet locations aren't on the very edge of the movement, but within the interior.
  11. I never thought about it being a problem with the barrel. I'll definitely look into that.
  12. The movement that came with this watch has an amplitude problem that causes it to gain a lot. My timegrapher isn't even able to sync to it. I didn't care try to work on the movement without more knowledge and experience, so I ordered scrap movements of the same type to work on. I've been able to build a movement from those. This built movement works better than the one in the watch, but it isn't perfect however, its amplitude waxes and wanes, and the watch gains and loses time along with the amplitude changes. For example, it might say 278 and +3 seconds, then jump up to 302 and +
  13. I emailed the owner of that site with the details on my watch. He's pretty sure it isn't NOS, but is a frankenwatch created using a 2209 movement with a new case, dial, and hands. I'm not too peeved about that. I'm not averse to getting a replica using an old movement. I just wish the seller had been honest about it.
  14. That worked beautifully! I had to look really closely under a 10x loupe to see that there really is an almost imperceptible area just where you indicated. I was able to carefully insert a case knife and the bezel popped off without any effort at all. Now to see if I can replace the movement in this watch with the one I've created from scrap movement parts.
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