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Hello All, I am relatively new to this hobby. I am an electronics engineer by profession in Los Angeles. I have been designated as the go to person for replacing watch batteries and fixing vintage & modern electronic gadgets for almost my entire life. Recent past, my father told me in casual conversation that his watch was running slow. I didn't know until later on that it was an automatic movement, which got me down this slippery slope. Since then I have downloaded time grapher apps, bought a dedicated chinese time grapher, purchased a set of tools that would rival Marks workshop...lol. I tend to do that, get hooked and immerse myself in things that interest me. I am an amateur radio operator, machinist, wood worker, photographer...on and on. I have learned a lot about a lot of things and have been successful in using that knowledge which keeps me motivated. I fix and restore old film cameras and have a collection of prized fully functional 40's through 1981 SLR cameras. I got so good at it, I had a steady stream of people willing to pay me whatever I wanted to get their vintage/classic cameras re-sealed, cleaned, lubricated and adjusted. I no longer add to my collection since getting married....lol. But always keep an eye out for a rare find. Before the above, I was into machining. I have a full machining table stop workshop. 14" lathe, 24" 3-in-one lathe/mill,/drill, belt sander, grind/polisher, assortment of dremels and many other goodies. I also learned to MIG weld. I built up a dune buggy single axle carrier trailer for my brother-in-law to drag behind his truck (still in service 7 years later). That was a learning experience. I watched lots of videos and talked to professional welders. Ended up doing exercises of all kinds of welds and cutting them open to see the depth of penetration to learn how to dial in my machine for various thicknesses. I have many other interests that I have embraced and learned by doing, going to spare you the rest LOL....I am passionate about learning. My current projects: 1). Refinishing the cabinet and restoring the electronics on a 1930 Philco Model 77 low boy radio. 2). Refinishing and restoring an old library cart. My wife and I have plans for this, maybe a mobile bar LOL... 3). Making a kitchen knife set for my wife. I know, easier to buy, but for me it's all about the journey. I made my first Santoku and she uses it a lot. Bought metal blanks, shaped and grinded it (via printed template from pictures) into what looks like a pretty good knife that holds its edge well. 4). Restoring a 1980 Star Wars themed alarm clock. I have the old record player mechanism working. The Bradley wind up clock is running slow even when the external speed adjustment is maxed out at the ++ mark. That should be a learning experience. 5). Assembled an ETA 2824-2 movement watching Mark's and other videos on youtube. It is in a beautiful watch now (for my dad's birthday) that I built from German and Swiss part sources. I ran into the problem where the stem would not fit back in the mechanism while fitting a new stem/crown to the case. Thanks Mark for the detailed video on how to fix that, took me about 1 hour of trying various things before I figured it out. Watch works wonderfully, in beat in 5 positions and my worst is +3 seconds per day, stem up. Dial up it bounces between +1 and 0. I will ask a lot of question so please bear with me, this is all still new to me :) -Nick

20190925_101850_1.mp4 My Oris dropped onto the street, no cosmetic issues, rotor spins hands move everything seems in order nothing's rattling inside, yet it's completely dead!?? That 7750 kept better time than my Muhle and Tudor, real workhorse, maybe something really obvious I'm overlooking?

Question for those who work on Vintage Timex watches: I've restored several Timex pieces from the late '60s to the late '70s. The technique I learned (from Internet posts and tutorials) say to simply loosen the dial-side balance pivot by unscrewing it 1/2 turn prior to cleaning the entire movement in an ultrasonic cleaner. This method contradicts the official Timex service manuals, which state that the balance should be removed, cleaned separately and reinstalled. Thus preventing the hairspring form being damaged in the ultrasonic cleaner. My experience is this: Leaving the balance in place (slightly loosened) is much easier and will work on the standard movements used in the '70s (M24/25, M32/33, M104, etc.) Attempting the same method on movements from the '50s and '60s (M22, M29, etc) will result in a kinked hairspring that is damn near impossible to un-kink. So my question is this: What do you experienced Timex restoration experts recommend? Leave the balance/hairspring in the movement for cleaning, or take it out to soak in a separate jar? Is the potential for hairspring damage greater when removing/reinstalling the balance - in comparison to leaving it in place? I've messed up a couple of vintage movements that I really wish I hadn't. I don't want to make those mistakes again. Thanks for any insights! -Todd

Hey, so I have a question. I've got an Invicta dive watch with a NH35A movement here that whenever I unthread the stem and crown as it is unthreading the date starts changing. Once its unthreaded I can change it to the 1, 2 and 3 positions and set and wind it accordingly. How can I fix this and what is causing this? Yours truly, Josh

Hi, I've been interested in watches and clocks for decades. Recently in another forum, someone posted "Show me you watch". So I did. Every day I changed y watch and tool a photo and posted it online. After 4 weeks (20 watches) I decided to stop as the only watches I have left didn't work. So this got me thinking. I have 3 pocket watches and a wristwatch that don't work. The pocket watches problems are all "Hair spring" (if that's the correct terminology). The wrist watch is another issue altogether - someone, before I bought it seems to have taken it apart and not put it back together again. Anyways.... I decided I'd like ot learn ow to repair mechanical watches for my own enjoyment/ frustration. I love the vintage automatics like Seiko 5 and Citizen. I love the cheap, but pretty like Indian military. I'd like to get a few from eBay that are listed as "Spare or repairs" and either repair or build up a bank of spare parts. I hope to learn a lot. John

I honestly just wanted to know how much it would cost me to fix my meylan stopwatch no. 214 if I were to send it to meylan to fix. I feel i should because on the inside the bezel case said to. And if I choose to send it to meylan then do i just send it or can I set up something online because on meylan's website I can't find anything about repairs or my stopwatch in particular. If you can help with some answers I would greatly appreciate it.

Good evening everyone. I am new to this forum and i can see we have some outstanding experts on the site. brand new to watch repair and looking to get some advice. I purchased an Omega seamaster quarts 1342 watch (not currently working and not tested) as it was a bargain and understand that 329 is the equivalent of the original mercury battery used when the watch was manufactured? I am hoping the battery change will mean it is functional but in the event it does not work, how easy/costly is it to repair. (I’ve heard parts can turn this bargain into a money pit) would anyone in this community willing to have a go at fixing it after i try battery change? paid service of course. any help advice would be much appreciated thank you

Hello dear watch repairers. I am working on a Bifora 910 manual wind movement. The movement was cleaned and oiled yesterday and I have been testing the performance. I noticed that when the watch is fully wound, the amplitude reaches somewhere above 300 and rate gets super high. However after about 5 minutes, both amplitude and rate plunge to a very low state. I thought mainspring was the reason so I took the barrel out, cleaned the mainspring and applied 8200 oil again only to get the similar result. What do you think is the problem and what can be done?? I am always thankful for your help. this is when fully wound After 5 minutes

I recently found a vintage Pobeda wristwatch in my basement, model 1980-1989. Sadly, it is very old and not maintained at all, maybe since the early 1990s. It is mechanical, so I tried to wind it, but of course it couldn't wind. There is a resistant when I try to do it, so I opened its back and checked what's going on. It appears to me, that the Crown Wheel and the Ratchet Wheel are either too tight, or not lubricated/rusty or whatever the reason may be. Also I found out that when I move the watch around, it winds itself, as if it is an automatic one (it certainly does NOT have any rotor, so that is weird). So I was wondering what has to be done, at this moment I don't have any repair tools. If someone can at least give me a direction as to what has to be done, I could search for some tools. I'm not so worried about the watch itself, although it has a sentimental meaning to me, but am curious to find out what the reason for the problem is.

will hands from caliber 1570 movement fit on the older 1560 movement?

Hi all, I recently acquired a very busted up AR1798 with all the hands unseated. Initially I assumed that the repair would be as simple as popping off the back of the case, flipping the dial out and reseating the hands. However, much to my dismay it appears that the dial is slightly larger than the opening and cannot be pulled out the back of the watch. I then looked towards the bezel and hoped that popping that off would grant me access to the front of the dial but alas that too proved futile. Though the bezel did indeed come off, there still appears to be no way of prying off the front of the watch - looks like the bezel was just glued on for decoration... Any ideas before I throw this into a draw and forget about it? Cheers! Watch back w movement removed Profile of watch with bezel attached Profile of watch with bezel removed (There's no seam to use to pry off the front, lighting makes it looks like there is)

Hi All, Just a bit of fun.. I ask here about find a replacement dial for my L'Epee, and Oldhippy gave me a contact for repairing, well I wrote off and ask if it could be repair and a cost if possible..Well Today I got a reply saying Yes they can repair it. So what do you think the cost would be?? photo as below..I was very surprised that they could repair it, given the state of this dial..

Hi watch lovers <3 i got a Robisi automatic watch. It accidentally fell down on the floor and its glass got detached which i attached again but after some time i realised that the Synthetic ruby gem was missing from it. Therefore it lost its balance and it stops time to time. How do i fix this?

Hi All, I recently replaced the movement for my Tissot PR50, which was a standard ETA F06.111. I now need to replace the crown as the old stem was broken into the crown and could not be re-used. Could someone point me in the right direction in finding a proper replacement crown? I don't know the size or how/where to measure to find a proper crown. Thank you!

I just took apart my first working watch and I am having trouble with the three gears. Everything else is easy to reassemble but the three gears leading to the mainspring. How do you guys put them back together? I am new to this so any help would be greatly appreciated.

I agree with what you are saying completely. I plan to only keep the case and back and replace everything else. I would have loved to put a mechanical movement in the watch but I think it’s too small (33.9mm x 7.1mm). My plan is to have the case and back replated and have the back blanked of its manufacturers engraving so as I can have a blank canvas to have something engraved on it myself. I was hoping to get advice on what movements could be used and buy the parts ready for a watchmaker to assemble as like you said, I don’t want to ruin the watch. I’ve already started sourcing/ordering parts which was a little silly without any advice so I’ll post what I have ordered below (if rules permit me to do so?).

I used to play chess but haven't in a while. I just finished replacing a battery on an old Dodger's digital watch as I'm trying to learn watch repair. My interests in clocks came to being as I was reading about a clock repairman who banks used to call for him to service their bank time locks. My career is as a locksmith and I have changed safe combinations and I'm interested in all things mechanical. So after replacing the battery on my watch, the chess clock popped into my head. So has anyone here ever worked on repairing chess clocks? CLH!

Hi all, this is my first post here. I repair watches as a hobby, and usually work on my own watches. This particular watch, along with two others, were give to a friend of mine, by his father, about three days before he passed away recently. The three watches, hence have an emotional value to my friend, and so, I wanted to get them going again. I fixed the QMax (Replaced battery), Titan (PCB and Coil, new battery, glass), and am working on this Rolex now. Almost all Indicators of a genuine Rolex that I have read of online, are absent, hence making me believe its most definitely a fake. i.e. No serial number or any stamping anywhere on case, no Logo on crown, Dial looks as if its been lacquered, bad finish, bracelet, and most importantly, no markings on the movement, and the movement was not used on any Rolex to my knowledge. Please enlighten me on this, if I am wrong. The issue I have now, is that, on the movement, there were no markings whatsoever, of the make or model. There were only serial numbers that read as "34B - 963125". After searching a lot, I realized, its an ETA 963.125, and photos on the internet matched with the movement I have. No marking of ETA on the movement (a fake again?). Its in a pretty rough shape, with the quartz oscillator (forgive my lack of knowledge of its correct name, as mechanics call it a "condenser" here), fallen apart. I did a preliminary search with the mechanics and spares shop here, and they all said its very old and parts are not available. Only one said, he will get me a scrap movement, but I am a bit doubtful. I was able to get a service manual for ETA 963.124 online. My question now is, is it possible to get these spares, or the whole movement anywhere in Bangalore, India? (my place), or is it possible to replace the whole movement with a different one, with the day and date windows matching with the dial? Or is it possible to reuse the same day and date rings on a different movement? Can anyone advice me on this? TIA. Pictures attached, forgive the lower quality, problem with my mobile cam.

I would like to know how some of you go about installing the set lever screw to the set lever? You know how it is, screw goes in one side of the main plate and the other side has the loose part that must me aligned with the screw threads. Just wanted to see what tricks I may learn.

Wondering whether anyone else had experienced this. I repaired a colleagues Rolex after she smashed it in a fall, serviced, refitted rotor and fitted new glass. The plastic seal that arrived with the Sternkreuzer glass was too thick so I refitted the old seal. Watch us running really well and has been on the wrist for a few weeks but large amounts of debriefs formed on the dial, hands and glass. In inspection it looks like small particles or shavings of plastic, I can only think this us coming from the refitted seal, any thoughts gratefully appreciated.

Hello, was wondering if anyone has dealt with any reliable watchmaker's that can repair vintage Seiko watches, I have a few that require dire need of repair, I'm located in New York City, and was wondering if anyone has anyone they can recommend in my area, or, someone who is reliable that I can mail my watches to. Thanks, EddieR

I cleaned this watch today 12/18/2017. Elgin 0 size 7 jewel manufactured in 1904, run quantity 2000. What fabulous craftsmen we had before us, truly amazing. Had to solder hunting case front lid back on at the hinge. Remove metal spring for the lid prior to laser soldering. Watch was in good condition and case is absolutely beautiful. Overhaul, new white alloy mainspring, hunting case glass crystal, solder front lid back to case and new bow installed and properly tightened to take out the flop Check out the 7 jewel on the timegrapher.

Hi everyone, I own a Victorinox which has a lose hand, it got deatached somehow, I think because of a small fall. Foyself a tool for opening the back of the case (I am really noob at this) but that is as far as I could go since I dont see any of the deataching levers shown in most of the tutorials on the internet. I attached images of the watch so you can point me which screw/lever/pin/whatever should be moved in order to remove the crown. If it is something very critical that could damage the clock I will take it to a specialized place, but I really would like to do it myself. Thanks, and greetings from Uruguay

Hi everyone, new collector here with a VERY strange problem... I recently purchased a Corum Admiral's Cup Competition from Jomashop. I thought I understood the risks of grey market purchases until today. Everything looked mint and perfect about the watch until I put it on and went to set the time... when I noticed that the numbers on the dial are incorrect! The watch features arabic numerals marking the minutes, and at the 5 o'clock position, where it should read "25" it instead says "35"! Thus, "35" is written twice, at the 5 o'clock position and the 7 o'clock position. Jomashop has agreed to "fix" the watch, but I'm hoping to get a full refund. In the meantime, I'm extremely confused as to why this has even happened. Why would someone tamper with the numbers on the dial of a watch? I understand this was a mistake, but I don't understand why the dial needed to be touched at all. Does anyone have any insight into what the service history of this watch might look like, and why someone would have needed to mess with the numbers?

Is it possible to repair watches that have been bought on eBay for profit? I am prepared to learn as well as put a decent amount to invest in tools as well as my time if the profit margins are good. This could potentially be a good source of income for me. Cheers!