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About GeorgeC

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  • Birthday May 17

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  • Location
    Somerset KY, USA
  • Interests
    Mac computers, Rolex repair, Omega watches, running, quality workmanship
  1. I'm curious if anyone has the images that were originally part of this thread? All I see are placeholders now and I have asked Geo if he had them but he replied he didn't. Seems like a great article but I wanted to see some images for clarity in my mind. Thanks
  2. Accutron 218

    I have worked on quite a few 218's and 214's since my grandfather sold them in our jewelry store. We had the machine that you clipped into the energy cell compartment to reduce the power to the fork for adjusting purposes. I would clean the index wheel with one dip and then carefully use watchmaker paper just to absorb the excess one dip from the flat of the wheel. If you needed a new index wheel, they would come in their own little aluminum metal cylinder. Also, you would have to check the tuning fork for stray bits of metal stuck to the magnets. Great thread, nice images CKelly.
  3. I have ordered a two piece stem for a ETA 2783 and didn't provide the correct gender for the movement side of the stem. The watch came in for repair with a female post movement side. Since both parts are rusty and need replaced, does it really make a difference which side is male or female? I didn't know that I would have had to order this a certain way. Just curious and will use the parts I have unless someone knows of a reason I should not. Thanks
  4. Regulator doesn't regulate.

    You may have already performed this but, make sure to unscrew all balance cap jewel screws so you can separate and thoroughly clean those components and re-oil. Look for any pits in the cap jewel or a broken hole jewel. Are the pivot points of the staff in operable condition?
  5. Regulator doesn't regulate.

    Hi, I’ve recently gone through a similar era Waltham 16s. I would look for hairspring rubbing either the bridge or the wheel. There may be a stray hair somewhere as well. I’m sure you’re aware of all of these possibilities but it dormant hurt to recheck under higher magnification. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I had to tighten the offset cannon pinion on a Zodiac Sea Wolf 72B 17jwl and wanted to share the process, along with the tools that I used to do so. This worked first time for me. My first attempt at separating the gear from the wheel was by taking tweezers and using the wedge method but this was too uncontrollable and dangerous on the fingers and parts. I located an old roller table remover tool that seemed to work fine. It had a threaded post and nut to use for closing in the two arm jaws but threads were stripped. Once removed, I used these two to tighten the cannon pinion. DON'T FORGET TO LUBRICATE THE POST BEFORE PLACING THE CANNON PINION BACK ON! I'm sure that this dry wear was the culprit in it being so loose at this point in time. I also came across this cannon pinion tightening tool in an old watchmakers bench that looks quite handy. I would attempt to use on a standard cannon pinion but like the control of the process outlined here for the offset style. I hope this helps others in their encounter with the offset cannon pinion.
  7. Zodiac Sea Wolf

    Chopin, I received the crystal today and it fit like a jewel, err crystal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Zodiac Sea Wolf

    Hello, Chopin. I found the crystal here thinking that I may find it in my GS crystal cabinets but that particular slot was empty. If you haven't checked that site out, it is a good one. Has a good online eCatalog of the older paper one.
  9. Very nice Sea Wolf brought in for repair. Nice to see this brought in from sitting in a drawer to getting worn daily. Cleaned in the Elma RM90 Reassembled but next will re-luminous the hands. Hands complete. I didn't attempt to remove or polish the spots on the hands for fear of maring the mirror polish from original issue. This watch has the threaded speed regulator so getting to a accurate gain/loss was a pleasure. Steady had to get in beat via friction adjuster though. New crystal to arrive this week along with a new crown and she is ready to go.
  10. Were the images you included in the post on fitting a stem hosted on a site and no longer exist?

    I was reading the 'sticky' thread and noticed that I only have the small generic placeholders for each image that you had originally inserted.  I just hoped to see the images for extra clarity in your writeup.



    1. Geo


      Hello George, I have no idea what has happened my photos.  I have nothing to do with running the forum these days, and I'm seldom on it.

      Best wishes,


  11. I came across this forum post with the same issue here This repair person states he files a chamfer in the end. I suspect creating the 'knife edge' closest to the barrel hook.
  12. Thanks, but I have taken purpose with installation prior to winding in the installer, to ensure correct counter clockwise installation, which is correct.
  13. I am in need of some advice on how to get a mainspring working in a Waltham 0s hunting case. This is a complete restoration of a rusted watch - spent way too much time on it already. I have it cleaned up now and in process of finalizing assembly but the mainspring I have installed keeps slipping from the center hub/barrel arbor. Hook of arbor hub appears fine and the tail of the mainspring is hooked well in the side wall of the barrel. I have installed 2 new but old inventory mainsprings and wanted to know if this may be the problem and I just need a new fresh mspg? I have installed many mainsprings but this one is terrible. I am using a pocket mainspring winder to install. movt serial #9535224 You can see my original mainspring below. I will add a picture of the inside of the mainspring barrel when I get the chance. Thanks for any help, George
  14. I have a Bulova 10BT with one of the dial screws slightly rusted and the head of the screw is stripped so that a screwdriver will not engage to back out the screw. What can I do to get this guy out? Small twist drill bit and drill out?
  15. I would like to know how some of you go about installing the set lever screw to the set lever? You know how it is, screw goes in one side of the main plate and the other side has the loose part that must me aligned with the screw threads. Just wanted to see what tricks I may learn.