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About Macgman2000

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  1. I actually dove right in, when I first started. My first watch was an 8215, serviced it and adjusted it over and over again LOL....until I got to close to text book on 3 axis. I also have serviced or repaired just about every family members' watch..lol. Then I felt encouraged so much so I bought an ETA 2824-2, dial, hands, crown, stem and case all from German and Swiss sources. Mark's videos helped me along and I built my first from parts. That is now with my dad and he loves it. It is big with high contrast dial and hands. He put away his constellation Rolex (primarily because he can't see it without glasses). The 2824-2 keeps such good time, my dad hardly ever adjusts it. He winds it and most of the time it winds itself just fine. I have since built 5 of the above mentioned with different cases, dials, hands, crowns and bands. I am now at a point where I am machining my own dial blanks in my workshop. Working towards finding ways to create my own custom dials with water transfers, laser etching, chemical etching...etc tying to find the best results. Soon I want to try out the Sellita movements, they are cheaper than genuine ETA and from what I hear work just as well.
  2. Comparing your pic to my knockoff. The knockoff case is nice. The dial looks original. The seconds hand is not correct tho. The other two look ok. I might do a movement transplant. Get rid of the stem + crown. The crown is too big compared to the one in your photo.
  3. It was purchased on Wish.com. Feel free to post the pics. I have purchased Citizen movements that out of the box were 0.3ms beat error and + 10 / -15 sec in worst positions. I tuned them on my watch tester to 0.0ms dial up and worst position 0.1ms. dial up +1 sec and stem down +3sec, stem up -2sec. It makes sense that a knockoff will not "behave nicely".
  4. I took a few pictures of the watch. This does not hack, the stem is stiff, the automatic weight is stiff....etc. The case appears to be nice, but really light.
  5. This is amazing, upon closer inspection / disassembled the back. The watch advertisement says 6R15 internal movement. The movement is stamped 4R35B and it does not hack as a 4R35B. I guess it was a cheap knock-off. There ya go, be careful of liquidation sales. -Nick
  6. I wanted to see who has purchased Seiko's 6R15 and what their experience has been. I bought a Seiko watch, one of several I have with a 6R15. I have all but given up on Seiko mechanical watches. The 6R15 like the 7S26 or 809....just garbage. I am not a brand person mind you, I could care less. If I was I would have spent $5k on name brand but choose not to because I know what goes into these watches. I am the same way with electronics ( I am an EE). It looked pretty, but couldn't help but notice how light it was, felt cheap. When I put it on my Watch Tester, it was horrible. +19sec dial up, -9 stem down, ...etc. The error was > 0.8 ms. The lowest was 0.6 in a position I would have to break my arm to get to. I have not seen this in any of Miyota movements. Even the horribly cheap ones, tune up beautifully. I just don't seem to have luck with Seiko. Maybe I am being too critical for what these are. The automatic movement weight is stiff, you have to really spin the case to get it moving. No crunching sounds and I can see if working through the 2nd bottom crystal. I am going to see if breaking it in helps, I doubt it, since it didn't help the 7s26 nor the 809. The ETA 2824-2 was reasonable out of the box. Tuning it was a breeze. Anyone work on 6R15's? what's the deal? -Nick
  7. Thanks for the responses. The watch is a new Parnis with a 8215 movement. Sometimes it sits where I want it to in winding position. If you push on it, it compresses up to the threaded tube and then springs back away as you expect to clear the tube to wind. I don't know why it works that way at times and why most of the time it doesn't. -Nick
  8. Hello, I have a watch with a screw down crown. When the crown is unscrewed, most of the time the crown stands away from the screw tube. You can press on it and it compresses and springs away when you let go. At times, more often than not, when I screw it down and then unscrew it. It stays collapsed and close to the threaded tube. When I try to wind it, it tights up to the screw down tube. I have to unscrew the crown and pull on it to hand set position. Then if I push back on it to normal running position, it sits away from the screw down tube and I can wind it. It seems like the spring inside the crown is staying collapsed and not unwinding to stand away from the screw down tube. How do I fix this, any ideas? Thanks, Nick
  9. Hi, I stumbled across this post on the Seiko 7s26. I bought 2 watches new, the diver watch SKX version and 2 months later the dress watch case version with this movement. Both are incredibly disappointing. Terrible experience with this movement. Both exhibited double digit running fast or slow in different orientations. I got so frustrated trying to regulate these watches when I was first starting out in this hobby. In fact I thought I was doing something wrong and bought a time grapher to "do it right". The machine just reinforced how bad these movements are. I am glad I got the machine. My very next purchase was a 9015 movement and then 2824-2.....wow drastic difference, both regulated beautifully. I can't help but walk away with a notion that Seiko has somehow lost its way. Two different retailers, two different watch cases....same 7s26 movement. Both sitting in a drawer with no interest to revisit. Am alone in my experience? -Nick
  10. What about Stellita movements? I guess they are making versions of the ETA that are not under patent. I don't know if they will do any new designs of their own. It would be nice to have high beat stellita if they make any, as long as they don't go the way of the Swatch group.... -Nick
  11. Hello, What is the best time keeping automatic movement in ETA, or other? I guess the question should be what's the best attainable as a sold movement only. Not interested in Rolex or any of the expensive movements, those don't interest me. Nick
  12. Hello, I spent about 15min putting the pinion back in place on the spring lever (as demonstrated in Mark's video). What is the proper position of the stem in order to release it and not dislodge the pinion gear? -Nick
  13. I will try it and once I get it fairly reproducible i'll document it. I will take a series of photo's and break it down in steps. I have used water slides before, I was just unsure of the thickness of the overall stack. I will give it a shot.
  14. Did you have to grind down the dial disk to keep the overall thickness to spec? I don't have a disk yet, I am purchasing a flat disk from ebay that fits the watch case. Have to get something with 2824-2 feet soldered to it. Then comes the tear down.
  15. Ah interesting....So is this a water transfer label on a painted dial?
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