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I've found the Cousins website helpful for finding Omega part numbers, just search for the case reference. https://www.cousinsuk.com/document/search?SearchString=166.0020 The crystal diameter is 31.60 mm for this case reference. I would recommend getting the genuine Omega crystal as the profile of the crystal integral in sealing the case. https://adventuresinamateurwatchfettling.com/2019/05/05/omega-seamaster-de-ville/

Somehow when putting it back together for the last time without the broken escape wheel, it runs fine when the spring is wound, all the gears spinning gently and winding it down. Also managed to get the balance wheel sat perfectly, gently moving back and forth for ages. Just when I lose hope I get it again xD I'll give it a bit and then I think I'll try, hopefully for the final time, and fix this thing once and for all

I think it's auto only? That did often go togheter with the crown at 4, because the crown is better protected, less accessible, but doesn't need much use anyway. The Swiss stopped making these around around the quartz crisis era, but Seiko didn't and still making like that.

Thanks for all your responses/advice. I have been freeing the balance cock from the plate then freeing balance wheel from the escapement then gently removing altogether with tweezers. I then tun it over for safe keeping. So generally following what has been suggested. I have not been removing the balance jewel, which is sometimes fixed so cannot be removed at this stage, so will try this next time. My tweezers are pointed so I may try and modify an old pair to be more specifically suited for this job, i.e. with wider/flatter jaws.

Agree with that, at £26.96 shouldn't be passed on. Plus you should get the almost invisible Omega mark on it. I could't see it on my Constellation until told about that.

On the face of it this does seem to be a rather enthusiastic estimate. For comparison I checked out the "Watch Guy's" online price list (this guy is well respected as an independent), and his price for a basic service on a manual wind chrono without an hour recorder is £250. This doesn't include the cost of a mainspring which he will replace so add about £20 for that, or other spare parts that are required, but it does include the crystal. As he says " All other repair work, including fitting new crystals, is usually included in the service price unless it is extensive. Case and bracelet cleaning is also included in the price, but not polishing." So all in at about £270 plus the cost of spare parts. That works out at about $330. What we don't know for sure is what parts are needed, or what the cost of procuring those parts is, although $610 is a bit ambitious to say the least.

That's why i am not really keen to let them do the repair, especially they have rejected my request not to replace the crystal and said it's mandatory. In Singapore, i think the price for changing a crystal is abt $30-$50.

Just remember that a French inch is longer than an English inch, use Goggle to find a converter.

Bfg 866 MS is a weapon and a pain, eye protection is a must. I clean the tube which the arbor goes through. Lube. If no luck repeat until it decides to work.

Just got a usb camera for my stereo microscope. Made a video discussing the setup. Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

These bfg866 movements can be a pig to realign the plate on. Much patience and test push the barrel before winding as mentioned above, it sounds like you have some misalignment with the barrel, be sure to relieve the tension in the mainspring before taking the click/spring off.

Hi, yes, this is still chugging along, twice a day morning and evening for 2 hours each time keeping my Seiko 5 and Orient watches wound.

Maybe not one you see every day, this 35mm Recta made by Muller & Vaucher. Probably dates from around 1950 and runs on their own 17j Recta G2 movement with a Breguet overcoil balance spring, since untangled from how it had first come to me as a non-runner. Unusually, the case back is also gold plated, I guess on the premise that if you didn’t move quickly enough, you got plated! The Recta brand goes back to 1898 and, according to Ranfft, became silent in 1984. Regards.

Hi You have assembled the watch minus the fork/pallet and tensioned the main spring and there is no movement through the train yes. Right take the tension of the mainspring and remove the ratchet wheel and with a piece of peg wood apply a little pressure to the barrel teeth and see if the train moves if so the ratchet wheel is jamming the barrel check its fit is correct. If all is still locked up dismantle the watch again and fit the barrel and it immediate wheel and try again, If ok fit the next wheel and check again untill all is fitted back again. I have enclosed the tech sheet for the BFG 866. 2529_BFG 866,866.31.7.pdf

I am assuming that you removed and re-wound the mainspring. You did wind it in the correct direction didn't you? It has happened. RMD

A final report from my side. Here's a close-up of the regulator pins in action. I think you can make out where the balance spring sits in the gap, and that the gap is reasonably small and parallel in the area it needs to be. I think I'll leave it at that. The movement has too many other issues to be a really good performer anyway, but great for practising on. Thanks again to everyone for the help and advice.

That would be easy to see on the timegrapher. Would be impossible to get a straight line and think the amp would be lower then 230-240 .

Is it possible to position it horizontally and fill up the screen?

Looks very handy for close examination. Most importantly, did you eat the apple?

For now.

Here is my watch for the day, a Late 60s early 70s Vostok Amphibia on a shark mesh bracelet.

Hi Glad to have been of service, and I think you deserve a pat on the back well done.

This just arrived on the slow boat from India. Lucknow , India, to be precise. It runs remarkably well with a swing of around 270 degrees and a rate of -20 s/day or so, fully wound dial down. All the more remarkable considering the fact that it comes with some free cosmetic rust, a minor case of tropical dial pox, and spent the last fourteen days in a jiffy bag, being bounced round the world. Before you ask.. I don't know what the caliber is yet, but it is presumably either Indian or French.

Don’t get despondent mate, keep at it, I haven’t looked at your link yet but am I correct in thinking that the movement you are working on is a dg2813, a standard 21j Chinese movement that can be picked up for around £20 complete.

I don't need to unwind I'm retired. To relax I drink this stuff.

I had to look this one up for you put a decimal point the two numbers and that will give you the length of the pendulum so it should be 7. 2inches. No wonder the bottom has been opened up that is a long one.

OK, I can't just leave all the ETA, Valjoux, and Seiko heads get all the posts! I came across this watch one night on ebay with bidding starting at $9.95... I put in the lone bid and didn't even notice when I had won it. Well, I figured it would be good for at least the parts as I hear that the bezels are almost always missing on this particular model. The Sapphire Beach has a 17 Jewel pin lever--my specialty! I got it and it looked pretty good on the inside so here go the pictures: It a rather big case for such a small movement.....its running like a charm and even has quick set date just like the real thing! This watch is something that I've seen only a few times, so I'm lucky to run across it so cheaply. The "jeweled" pin-lever movements being made in the 70's were mostly Baumgartner and Bettlach, and all it takes is a cursory glance on any bidding site and check out what some of these things go for the the 'bay to know that pin-levers are collectible. It is of course true they don't sit and give timegrapher readings like an Omega Constellation...but they've got plenty of personality! Regards, JC

With any electrical goods from China just make sure it does not catch fire. Myself I wouldn't leave it going if I wasn't there with it.