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canthus last won the day on December 11 2016

canthus had the most liked content!

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About canthus

  • Rank
    Super WRT Addict

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  • Location
    Manchester, England
  • Interests
    Anything mechanical (even some electrics), preferably broken so I can research and repair!! Ex design/development engineer in several industries, latterly lubrication engineer. Now retired and enjoying my new hobby!

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  1. Browsing again, I noted the way the balance assy is on the balance tack. I would think that this could result in the h/s getting badly twisted if it accidentally fell off. Why not just keep the assy on a flat surface if you want to keep it this way. I know many people let the balance dangle on the tack, but I think this also lends to the risk of the h/s getting damaged accidentally (particularly with small calibre (ladies) balances with very fine h/s). I would only use a tack suspension for working on the balance.
  2. Possibly the spring has jumped out from between the pins when you cleaned the balance
  3. I use the small dental brushes (for flossing teeth) for cleaning holes, tubes etc in main plates, bridges etc. Only limit is diam of twisted wire used to make them. They come in several sizes and bristle stiffness. Easy to dip in your cleaning fluid. The centre second spring should be supported when fitting the centre second hand. There is a simple test for the correct spring force but just can't remember it at this moment.
  4. Done loads of very small ladies watches. Basically endorse comments above. Only advice I can give is take great care when handling the balance as the hairsprings are extremely delicate and very easily damaged (a super sensitive hand is required to correct !!).
  5. Thanks for all your ideas and thoughts, several options for me to explore. Have to put on the back burner for a while as other priorities at the moment. Will post my failures/successes in due course, but still open for suggestions/techniques etc. I think the shape reverts back to the old engineering gremlin of stress raisers which could be shape, radii in corners, scratchy finishes etc etc so will pay due attention to these and probably try and polish these areas a bit. Would a wiggly shaped arm (spring part) be better than a straight arm ????
  6. Dial also indicates 8700 but cannot find any record for this in my files. I even checked back via citizen battery requirement document (attached) and 8700 is not listed there either. Battery Chart by Movement.pdf
  7. Most helpful nickelsilver. I know this company from my working days, they are a large distributor of sheet steel. Their single sheet may be far too big for me. I'll get my beans in a row re thickness etc and may drop them an email to see if they can let me have a small sample or off-cut FOC, you never know!! I see they do an annealed stainless spring steel which may be suitable.
  8. Thanks for your ideas. Wire is unlikely to work as I am talking about a flat plate bridge type spring. I have plenty of small hacksaw blades and also some unused feeler gauges which may do the job. Not sure if my HSS drills would work on these materials, so would I need to anneal it first to soften it, or would carbide drills work without softening?
  9. I am having trouble sourcing setting lever springs for older watch movements. Either they are not available anywhere or economically not viable, so I thought I might try and make my own. I have most of the drills, files stones etc but don't really know what steel material I need. I know about tempering and hardening etc, so just need advice on readily obtainable material. Maybe thicker stock than final form as easier to work with but any help from the many sages on this forum is appreciated.
  10. Cousins also sell bits for jewelry etc. Some people make jewelry from old watch parts, so maybe more useful for them.
  11. May seem daft but have you tried giving your oilers a thorough clean. if they have been in contact with anything containing silicone oil (seal grease etc), PTFE (some oils), or moly/graphite etc, then these tend to 'plate' onto the oiler and prevent proper oil stiction. May have to be mechanically cleaned (ie with cloth or very fine paper) then finished in an U/S cleaner.
  12. Had the same problem when I first started this hobby. A friend gave me a battered O&W with a Valjoux 92. I didn't feel able to tackle it with my very limited knowledge and skills, so I told him to sell it which he did. I now wish I had kept it, as I feel I could tackle it now, some 6 years on. I would say, keep it in your drawer for a bit longer as you may get to the stage where you will love to tackle it with confidence. If not, it will probably not lose value as it looks in reasonable condition, and you can move it on.
  13. Try here, not sure if 2836 there but maybe alternatives. https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/swissmadetime
  14. Pictures are invaluable but sods law says the picture you need was not taken! Having been in same situation, I now put related parts (ie train and bridge and screws) in their own pot, list the items by name (good way of leaning the names of parts). I make sketches of springs and the way they fit, note which way up the pinion is on gears when assembled or the longer pivot, note if screws are same length etc. and make small sketch of orientation etc if not obvious, note which way mainspring is coiled etc. I inspect each part and mark my list with a red biro tick if all ok, when cleaned and re
  15. I managed to find a piece if plastic pipe with a decent wall thickness that just happened to fit over the screw thread on the case-back (of my Omega Seamaster vintage 1967) and which also fitted over the outside of a small chuck for an electric drill. Ran the drill at its slow speed and used dialux compounds (can't remember which !!) on a cloth backed by a wooden spatula. This gave a good polished finish with no lining/marks.
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