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canthus

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canthus last won the day on December 11 2016

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About canthus

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    WRT Addict

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Manchester, England
  • Interests
    Anything mechanical (even some electrics), preferably broken so I can research and repair!! Ex design/development engineer in several industries, latterly lubrication engineer. Now retired and enjoying my new hobby!

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  1. I haven't messed with a Timex dial but I have with others similar. I used a very thin piece of brass sheet and cut it to a T shape. I bent it at 90 deg then used JB Weld to fix it to the underside of the dial with the top of the T on the dial and the leg of the T used for the tang and left it to fully harden in a warm place for a few days. As JB Weld sets very hard and can be filed etc when hard, any excess can be easily removed to give a flat surface under the dial. The brass plate should not be too stiff and the dial part big enough to avoid the dial part peeling when bending to fix the dial. Obviously there must be room between the underside of the dial and the movement, for the repair to allow the dial to sit flat. If its metal to metal then maybe superglue would work as well.
  2. Remember them well but didn't have a tv so used to go to the local ice-cream shop and watch it there for a penny (old one!).
  3. In my engineering days, anything fitted with loctite (screws etc), were given a sharp tap on the end before attempting to remove. This seemed to break-up the loctite and the screw could then be removed easily. Not sure how it wold work on a watch stem/crown. Perhaps giving the crown (stem-up) a good tap on a solid surface might do it, but not sure if enough force could be transmitted.
  4. Thanks for all your responses/advice. I have been freeing the balance cock from the plate then freeing balance wheel from the escapement then gently removing altogether with tweezers. I then tun it over for safe keeping. So generally following what has been suggested. I have not been removing the balance jewel, which is sometimes fixed so cannot be removed at this stage, so will try this next time. My tweezers are pointed so I may try and modify an old pair to be more specifically suited for this job, i.e. with wider/flatter jaws.
  5. I work a lot on small caliber (ladies watch size) movements but still have mishaps with the balance hairspring. These hairsprings are very fragile and easily bent and removing/replacing the balance assembly seems to be my problem. I would like any comments on the risks of deforming the hairspring by allowing the wheel to dangle during handling. I would also like to know if the position of the regulator arm/pins has any effect re risk of deforming the spring, should it be close to the stud or as far a possible from the stud, I normally leave it where I find it so the timing is close to what it was before dis-assembly. Any advice on techniques etc will be much appreciated.
  6. I too am in NW and a hobbyist of a few years. I second what Adam says and would also add that the mechanics are easy to understand but the touch and feel are very important. I cadged as many FOC non-runners as I could from local watchmakers, jewellers and charity shops, plus a few purchased NOS from the bay. I then just took them apart and rebuilt them a few times to get the feel of handling small parts with tweezers, working small screws, handling balances, mainsprings and oiling etc. Doesn't matter too much if you mess up and ping a few bits (you can then check out your eyesight etc !!!!). For the more valuable watches I always check spares availability before I even start, at least then I will know the cost of any mishaps (!!) and can be extra careful when handling hard to get parts, and maybe help me decide to leave it or not for another time when more experienced. Welcome to the friendliest and most helpful forum.
  7. I believe both the boot and pin are usually a friction fit in the balance cock. Cousins UK have a range of these available, so as a last resort (or necessity if you bust them!!) you could measure up the old ones before removing them and source some new ones to push in.
  8. Thanks to all who helped with this post. Unfortunately none of the offered solutions were suitable for me. I eventually ordered a pack of 5 Kif 3-2 (elastor) from Cousins as the Kif6-1 is no longer available and donor movements could not be found or were extremely expensive for just 1 tiny spring. The Kif3-2 is only very slightly different in design and the overall length is 1.5mm cf 1.6mm (they are unbelievably tiny) but it fits and sits ok. I did have some fun trying to get it to engage and managed to bend one out of shape, so having 4 spares turned out to fortunate. I managed to fit using the method suggested by another forum member (cant find who! but thanks for the input), which was to fit the jewel and lay the spring in position on top and then push it into hinge part of the jewel holder. Easier said than done, I failed with tweezers and eventually managed with a 0.5mm screwdriver after about 1.5 hours of trying!!! The balance seems to be swinging fine so I now need to re-clean and check all is well before final assembly. Now having a few days winding down rest from this project and doing something a bit easier !!!
  9. Can anyone explain what the 'tube diam' is based on when sourcing a crown. For example (crown dia 3.50) x (tube dia 1.60) x (tap 0.9 dia). I understand the crown and tap diameters but I am confused as to what the tube diam actually means. Is it the o/d of the tube (the bit outside the case body, not the part fixed in the case body) which is commonly shown as 1.3, 1.6, 2.0 etc?? How do I find the i/d in which the stem fits, especially if the stem has a tube with/without an o-ring seal? Will a larger tube o/d mean a larger crown tube dia ? Any advice info will be much appreciated.
  10. Often quoted in Lee Child novels by Jack Reacher character is a substance called squalene. A natural organic compound found in shark liver oil and olive oil, and was used by watchmakers to lubricate delicate mechanisms. Also found on the sides of human noses !! Not sure how long it would last before going rancid, who nose !!!
  11. I bought some cheap ones (angled and straight) and ground them down to finer points which I keep for HS only. I also put a small elastic band around the arms which I can move up and down to 'set' the gap of the points. This stops me inadvertently letting them open too far too soon!!! BUT I still mess some HS up, hands not steady enough, and I can't mod them!!
  12. Re painting. I have used acrylic on hands and dials with satisfaction, but found it could get damaged easy if used on case/bezel. I tried a special matt black BBQ paint from local B&Q which was better on cases/bezels but still not very tough. I eventually used a black epoxy aerosol paint of the bay, and this proves to be very tough. It must be applied to a very clean surface and in light coats, allowing each coat to thoroughly dry/set, to build-up a good finish
  13. Looks a bit like a KIF Ref 1 (old trior) ???? See attached ref. Kif-Springs.pdf
  14. Have you got a very short sample time set on the timegrapher? Setting a longer sample period, say 20 or 30 secs may give a continuous trace. Just a thought.
  15. Could well be the case. Watch oils normally also need certain additives such as anti-wear, anti-oxidant, even extreme pressure, and sometimes metal pacifiers (anti corrosion/staining). Also baby oils tend to be quite high viscosity so would not be suitable for balance etc which requires a relatively thin oil for minimum friction in the oil. Thinner are available but maybe not readily in small quantities. Simple way of comparing with a known oil is let the oils equalise for temperature then put a drop of each on a flat clean glass slide then tip it up to about 45-60 deg and see which oil wins the race to the bottom. The thinner oil will win! The first thing to select when choosing an oil is the correct viscosity for the application then decide if any additional properties are needed via additives. Generally slow moving means thick (high viscosity) and fast moving means thin (low viscosity). WD40 is designed to Displace Water and leave waxy type protective film to prevent further water ingress. NOT what is wanted in a watch lubricant!
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