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canthus last won the day on May 10

canthus had the most liked content!

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About canthus

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    Super WRT Addict

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  • Location
    Manchester, England
  • Interests
    Anything mechanical (even some electrics), preferably broken so I can research and repair!! Ex design/development engineer in several industries, latterly lubrication engineer. Now retired and enjoying my new hobby!

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  1. Yes, I too hate the h/spring stud screw. So easy to slip and wreck the hairspring, especially ladies watches!! In the past with the screw in-situ I have stripped a small piece of insulation off a suitably sized small electric wire, just a mm or 2, and slipped it on to the screw or screwdriver. This stops the screwdriver form slipping off, but means you have to rely on feel for it going into the screw slot. Can sometimes work to fit the screw as the insulation has enough friction to allow the screw to start. Otherwise I find a well dressed screwdriver just a bit wider than the the screw als
  2. JohnR725 thanks for your comments. I am inclined to think that the h/s for the balance with screws (1600) would be 'stiffer' than the 1601 in order to handle the possible heavier weight and/or rotational momentum of the 1600, and would therefore tend to overdrive the 'lighter' balance (1601) rather than under-drive it. As commented I may just wait for a reasonably priced suitable donor or balance complete for the original 1601 and sell on the perfectly good new balance complete for the 1600. In the meantime I may have a go at refitting the original h/s to the original collar as you sugg
  3. Nucejoe, thanks for your comment. I want to do it the other way, 1600 to 1601 so no screws to adjust in the balance. The hair spring already has stud fitted, and the hairsping is very very delicate. I doubt I could shorten it without destroying it !! Would basically be limited to the regulator range at this point.
  4. Practice will perfect your modus-operandi for getting the screws to their holes ready for screwing in. Use well dressed tweezers if you use these to place the screw (you can get special screw holding tweezers, but they aren't always effective). I always turn the screw anticlockwise (normal threads), ie unloosening direction first with a light pressure until you hear/feel a light click, this means that the starts of the threads are lined up. The screw then also tends to sit upright and will screw in easily with a light touch only needed. This is standard engineering practice, especiall
  5. I am messing about with a Slavia 1601 (part of my work rescuing watches for local charity to sell on). The hairspring has broken at the collet. I sourced a new balance complete for a 1601 but it turns out it is for a Slavia 1600 (a Renata 5095). The main difference is that the 1600 has no shock system but the 1601 has. Everything else seems to be the same. I tried the new balance anyway but it does not work as the end shake is too high and disappears quickly if reduced. On checking I see that the length and shape of the pivots are different, which I suspected would be the case anyway (I
  6. These permanent magnets will not demag. I experimented some time ago with a rotor from a quartz watch, and found it impossible to demag, even using a very strong field. Put them near a mechanical watch and you can actually see the balance hairsping change shape in some instances !!
  7. When cleanliness is paramount, any handling tools (tweezers etc) also need to scrupulously clean to avoid cross contamination.
  8. Renata are part of the Swatch Group so I assume would have a vested interest in quality required for watches. I always use Renata and have had no problems with leakage. Leakage problems encountered usually due to low quality batteries or not silver oxide type fitted. Similarly I would expect Seizaiken (Seiko) batteries would be ok.
  9. Maybe I misunderstood its purpose. I thought it was for easing the second hand by bending it slightly. i would not use it for prying off anything as it could bust a pivot as is said. Only ever used this idea once on a particularly 'stubborn' new centre second hand and it did the job without continual removal to reshape.
  10. I use a longish sewing needle with the eye end cut off to leave a fork shape. Bit of polish/cleanup to remove burrs etc (so don't damage had finish). Pop it in a pin vice and there you go. Bit cheaper than Bergeon !! I use similar needles for hairspring manipulation.
  11. Perhaps back to basic school lessons may be the answer. ? Put some iron fillings on a piece of thin paper and put this on something plastic that you can hold over the item being checked. Moving it about should see a pattern in the iron filings develop. If none then no magnetism in item?
  12. Seem to remember that the spring should not be over lubed. i gather there needs to be some friction to stop it overrunning as it ticks over but not too much to make it judder. I have a note from somewhere I can't recall where (possibly from Cal 1022 which apparently may be similar to 550 as scribbled on same piece of paper!!), which states, "Adjust it (the spring) so that it has enough tension that once you lift it. the gear train spins just a little but not too much when the pallet fork is out. You want the centre (second?) wheel to turn about about half a rotation when you do thi
  13. You might find this of interest re 550 series. Not much on oiling c/sec pinion spring though. Cal History and Info.pdf
  14. Just a thought. Could the cannon pinion be TOO tight and causing the wheel pinion to turn in the wheel?
  15. Also find a lot of christmas glitter this way. ??
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