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canthus

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canthus last won the day on December 11 2016

canthus had the most liked content!

About canthus

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    WRT Addict

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Manchester, England
  • Interests
    Anything mechanical (even some electrics), preferably broken so I can research and repair!! Ex design/development engineer in several industries, latterly lubrication engineer. Now retired and enjoying my new hobby!

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  1. I use 'G-S Hypo Cement' (used for fitting crystals). It has a very fine nozzle, so easy to apply and dries quickly. Don't think it has any gassing problems either .
  2. I too bought a small 10ml bottle some time ago. I do not use epilame a lot so like others I needed to conserve as best as possible. I eventually came to using an old package case from a balance complete purchase, a small round item with lid. This is big enough for the few items I have had to do. I fill it from the bottle, immerse the item for 5 mins, then allow the item to dry under a warm light bulb. The remaining epilame is then poured back in the bottle for next time. It says its very volatile but not so that it just vanishes as soon as you use it! I gather that for surfaces that need to retain oil then they should be run dry for a few minutes to remove the epilame from the working surface (which needs to retain lube) but leaves it on the non working surfaces which need to be lube free.
  3. Done a couple of seiko hardlex glass crystals basically using process of wet/dry then diamond pastes. It is essential that the crystal is thoroughly cleaned after each polishing step before moving to a finer grit. This is to ensure that any of the previous grit is removed as it will only scratch again when the finer grit is applied. No short-cuts and patience is essential as it can take a long time to get a really good clear finish.
  4. Yes that's the one, just like my dads. No leather wallet though.
  5. Thinking again I believe my dads old razor was a 'Rolls' not Ronson. Anyone else know this type?
  6. TAG HEUER care and caseback seal info.txt My son had a similar problem with his TagH. I found the attached (copied to txt format) on the TH site. Obviously the amount of condensation is relevant. I had a similar event with my Omega Seamaster (cal552), I removed the back immediately and left it next to the hot water storage tank for a few hours to warm up and dry out. I left it on some pieces of cigarette paper (to absorb any damp air) in a large plastic container (to keep out any dirt) and replaced back when fully dry. Not had any problems, corrosion or otherwise since.
  7. I have my dads old Ronson (Rolette ?) razor in the loft somewhere. It is in a metal case with two removable sides/lids and a substantial single blade with bar guard (about 5cm x 4 cm). The blade fits to a handle in the case and is used to sharpen on a whetstone inlay on a lid on the one side and a strop on the lid the other side of the case. The blade then fits on an handle for shaving. It like a mini cut-throat. Never had the nerve to try it out as it looks lethal!! My dad gave it up eventually and went to a safety razor with double edged single blade but would only use G****tte platinum blades which were expensive at the time. I use the normal multi-blade cartridge type but always buy branded blades as they seem to be sharper and keep their edge better. I also use N*v*a gel or foam as this does not seem to clog the blade and gives a good shave. I only have a light beard so shaving not really a problem.
  8. Like many I have wrecked several hairsprings. Often it is just tweezer control. Working under magnification it is easy to misjudge dimensions, and often I have released the tweezer, with it opening too much only for it to mangle the hairspring. I now have a small elastic band fitted to the shank of the tweezers to limit how much they open when released. The elastic band can be moved up and down the shank to adjust the tweezer gap at the tips. I have found this helps considerably. But I still manage to wreck some!!!!!
  9. Sorry I got the link wrong. Try this https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/7222-shelf-life-of-oils-vs-time-of-use/?tab=comments#comment-71515
  10. My reply to a similar topic can be found on this link. If you need more indepth info on ils etc I did some topics on 'Lubricants Basics' some time ago. https://www.watchrepairtalkprofile/272-canthus/.com/
  11. Great video. Lots of Roger Smith on the tube, all awe inspiring, a must view.
  12. If you don't have any 'true' cutting oils then often readily available substitute automotive oils can be used. Basically the hotter the metal is at the tool tip or the tougher the material, the better high extreme pressure (EP) oils will work as the EP additives only become 'active' at these high temps. Automotive lubes that give increasing effect would by Hydraulic Oil ISO VG 15, 22 or 32 (mineral oil NOT the brake fluid type), mild EP gear oil (SAE80 or lower), high EP gear oils (SAE80 or lower). Hydraulic oils have anti-wear additives and some lubricity additives. EP Gear oils will have varying levels of extreme pressure additives such as chlorine, phosphorous, etc, and can be quite thick so may need to be thinned with a lighter oil (hydraulic oil ISO 15 or 22 or 32 is ok). Oils will help with lubricity and are gentler heat removers, but are not so good for chip removal. Watermix fluids (suds) can also have high EP levels but are quite severe at cooling but can be better for chip removal, however these are specialist products and unless you can cadge some off a local machine shop then can be expensive to buy as the package size is quite large (often 25L is smallest at £3+ per L). Your lathe must also be compatible with watermix fluids, whereas oils are invariably ok. Also EP oils can stain active metals such as copper, brass, silver etc so bear this in mind if post machine cleaning is not possible, normally EP oils are not required on these type of materials which require oils with good lubricity or cooling.
  13. Not actually dial renovation but look up Roger W Smith on the tube where he shows how a dial (part of) is engraved and a series of 5 videos on engine turning a dial. There are also other videos which show just how skilled he is and why his watches cost a fortune and more !
  14. I have one of the cheapo chinese ones and it works well if used correctly. Before this i used to use my soldering gun. This is one of the larger mains operated guns with a trigger switch to heat up the soldering head. I put the part to be demagnetised in a small plastic pot or bag and placed it near the transformer part of the soldering gun (trial and error found the best spot), switched the gun on and slowly pulled the part away to about 1 metre over 10 seconds before switching off the gun. I believe that you can also take the parts to your local store which have a demagnetiser at the till for removing security tags !!!!
  15. I used this when I first started as they often sell lots of 2 or more watch movements of the same caliber, often NOS so you know you are getting sound movements. Tend to be more European calibers but these are fine for learning and parts are normally available. https://www.ebay.com/str/globalwatchstraps
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