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canthus

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canthus last won the day on December 11 2016

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About canthus

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    WRT Addict

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Manchester, England
  • Interests
    Anything mechanical (even some electrics), preferably broken so I can research and repair!! Ex design/development engineer in several industries, latterly lubrication engineer. Now retired and enjoying my new hobby!

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  1. Re painting. I have used acrylic on hands and dials with satisfaction, but found it could get damaged easy if used on case/bezel. I tried a special matt black BBQ paint from local B&Q which was better on cases/bezels but still not very tough. I eventually used a black epoxy aerosol paint of the bay, and this proves to be very tough. It must be applied to a very clean surface and in light coats, allowing each coat to thoroughly dry/set, to build-up a good finish
  2. Looks a bit like a KIF Ref 1 (old trior) ???? See attached ref. Kif-Springs.pdf
  3. Have you got a very short sample time set on the timegrapher? Setting a longer sample period, say 20 or 30 secs may give a continuous trace. Just a thought.
  4. Could well be the case. Watch oils normally also need certain additives such as anti-wear, anti-oxidant, even extreme pressure, and sometimes metal pacifiers (anti corrosion/staining). Also baby oils tend to be quite high viscosity so would not be suitable for balance etc which requires a relatively thin oil for minimum friction in the oil. Thinner are available but maybe not readily in small quantities. Simple way of comparing with a known oil is let the oils equalise for temperature then put a drop of each on a flat clean glass slide then tip it up to about 45-60 deg and see which oil wins the race to the bottom. The thinner oil will win! The first thing to select when choosing an oil is the correct viscosity for the application then decide if any additional properties are needed via additives. Generally slow moving means thick (high viscosity) and fast moving means thin (low viscosity). WD40 is designed to Displace Water and leave waxy type protective film to prevent further water ingress. NOT what is wanted in a watch lubricant!
  5. JBO is made from a 'white mineral oil' which is highly refined mineral oil with the nasties removed, often referred to as 'liquid paraffin'. Medicinal are highest spec and are used for medicinal applications such as JBO, technical grades are used for lubing machinery where the odd drop may get into the product. Some watch oils are made using this type of oil with medicinal/technical quality additives to enhance properties. These oils are clear and very stable, and lie somewhere between ordinary mineral oils and synthetic oils. They are lower cost than synthetics but more expensive than normal mineral oils. JBO probably has some perfume and lanolin type additives which are safe for human contact (medicinal quality). It is possible to deduce what additives are added to oils by studying the safety data sheets and product specifications which are readily available BUT you still have to 'make the cake' !!!!
  6. Making lubricants is like making a cake !! All the ingredients are available but often in different quality levels. When mixed together the cake has all the same ingredients but how much of each? Then it is processed (mixed and cooked!) to form the cake, but mixed or cooked for how long and in what at what temperature etc. Then we have a cake, but what does it feel/taste like and does it turn out like you wanted? Moebius oils seem to use very high quality ingredients and are finely tuned to achieve their desired performance in high end markets. Lower cost lubricants may work fine but maybe not in the extreme. professionals need to meet customers needs, amateurs/hobbyists doing their own watches etc may be able to use lower cost brands. You pays your price!
  7. Doubt that diamond paste will be effective on a filed surface as it will be 'rough' by polished standards. ! would start with wet&dry papers going down to 2500 grit then go onto the polishing pastes. Thoroughly clean after every grit/paste size and do on a flat plate. Dialux bar polishing medium (grey I think for steel) may be better than diamond paste.
  8. Abit more info on KIF shock systems that may help. antichoc_lower.pdf antichoc_upper.pdf
  9. Great report, have done many quartz (cheap and better), but never thought of the screw trick. Will certainly use in future. I have a very small sterile pot which I keep the rotor in separately if assembly is delayed, this is to keep it clean after removing debris etc with rodico.
  10. Hi, Re our PM's, I have attached a pic of the sizes for KIF springs which I have been using. The smaller sizes you mention relate to the jewel chaton I think, hence the confusion. I was unable to send pic by PM so have put it here. It may also help others. Kif-Springs.pdf
  11. Rogart you are a star once more (you helped me with an obscure screw some time ago). How can I arrange to source one from you?
  12. Shock spring KIF 6-1 has gone awal after coming loose when servicing Bulova Cal 5BD. This is the smallest KIF Ultraflex (overall length is 1.60mm) and is indicated as obsolete at Cousins (my normal source), and no luck with web search. Can anyone help with another supplier name or spare. At least I now have a very clean workbench and floor
  13. I use 'G-S Hypo Cement' (used for fitting crystals). It has a very fine nozzle, so easy to apply and dries quickly. Don't think it has any gassing problems either .
  14. I too bought a small 10ml bottle some time ago. I do not use epilame a lot so like others I needed to conserve as best as possible. I eventually came to using an old package case from a balance complete purchase, a small round item with lid. This is big enough for the few items I have had to do. I fill it from the bottle, immerse the item for 5 mins, then allow the item to dry under a warm light bulb. The remaining epilame is then poured back in the bottle for next time. It says its very volatile but not so that it just vanishes as soon as you use it! I gather that for surfaces that need to retain oil then they should be run dry for a few minutes to remove the epilame from the working surface (which needs to retain lube) but leaves it on the non working surfaces which need to be lube free.
  15. Done a couple of seiko hardlex glass crystals basically using process of wet/dry then diamond pastes. It is essential that the crystal is thoroughly cleaned after each polishing step before moving to a finer grit. This is to ensure that any of the previous grit is removed as it will only scratch again when the finer grit is applied. No short-cuts and patience is essential as it can take a long time to get a really good clear finish.
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