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canthus last won the day on December 11 2016

canthus had the most liked content!

About canthus

  • Rank
    WRT Addict

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Manchester, England
  • Interests
    Anything mechanical (even some electrics), preferably broken so I can research and repair!! Ex design/development engineer in several industries, latterly lubrication engineer. Now retired and enjoying my new hobby!

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  1. Nice end result. I use a similar process finishing off with polywatch. Care is needed to not press too hard, let the abrasives do their job. If there are any deep scratches or deep micro-scratches, too much pressure will tend to make them worse, and can even become so bad as to make the crystal needing replacement (I know I have done it, especially with ladies watch sizes!!). To protect the case a use duct tape or similar which stays in place even with some wetness present.
  2. These ladies watches are very small and can be difficult for a novice. My experience, having done several of them and currently a Chaika 1601A, reflects the comments above. I would add to check the shape of the hairspring before you start to ensure it is sound. They are very fragile and easily damaged, so extra care when removing/inserting. Use polybag/sheet when removing shock springs (removed by turning in housing until released by gap). The mainsprings are also quite delicate and can become distorted if hand fitted. If they wind up fully (see above comment) then I sometimes just remove the cap and pop the barrel in a small pot of lighter fuel (open side down) and into the ultrasonic for 5 mins. You can see the muck come out!!! I then repeat with new fluid until no muck seen. The US seems to shake the coils about so the muck /oil is released. I then just put a very small dab of 8300 grease to the bottom of the barrel and cover then refit the cover, then lube the arbor with HP1300, seems to work ok. Also check the balance cock when removing as there is often a shim under it!!
  3. I have used black epoxy paint (in aerosol) for watch cases etc and it seems to stand up very well for wear. Must allow it to fully cure for maximum hardness/adhesion.
  4. Thanks FLWatchguy73 for the PM. Could prove a little expensive for me to source from USA to UK. I will use the info though to try and source nearer home, many thanks. For the benefit of others using this forum I have attached the link below, hope you are ok with this. https://www.ebay.com/sch/Wristwatch-Bands/98624/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=&_ssn=honcosstraps&_dcat=98624&Band%20Material=Silicone&rt=nc
  5. Nice job. I have some BFG 921autos which I got NOS for practice and they are easy to work on and reasonable quality. I like the strap, where did you source it from as I am interested in one for my own watch ?
  6. M9010 is 150cst @20c. nearest other than M9000 and M9104, is M941 (for pallet stones) at 105 cst @ 20c but this is an ester not a mineral/PAO (synthetic mineral oil), so not sure of effects on plastic parts. Like you I don't use a lot so didn't want the expense of M9000 for one or 2 watches. I have used M9010 without trouble on an ETA 955.
  7. Just been looking at latest Moebeus lube chart and see that they are marketing fluorescent versions of some of their oils. Maybe use one of these lights to see where the oil is (or not as the case may be!). A flown part with oil on may also show up? All the best to one and all.
  8. I read somewhere (maybe the tube) that you can cure a lot of evils if you wind the spring up as you would into a mainspring winder (though a MS winder would be too large and this would have to be done on the flat of your bench for example) until it is fully and tightly coiled. I gather this gives it its shape back and you can move on from there. Maybe a bit of an ask for your spring though !! Maybe worth a try as not much to lose !!
  9. I haven't messed with a Timex dial but I have with others similar. I used a very thin piece of brass sheet and cut it to a T shape. I bent it at 90 deg then used JB Weld to fix it to the underside of the dial with the top of the T on the dial and the leg of the T used for the tang and left it to fully harden in a warm place for a few days. As JB Weld sets very hard and can be filed etc when hard, any excess can be easily removed to give a flat surface under the dial. The brass plate should not be too stiff and the dial part big enough to avoid the dial part peeling when bending to fix the dial. Obviously there must be room between the underside of the dial and the movement, for the repair to allow the dial to sit flat. If its metal to metal then maybe superglue would work as well.
  10. Remember them well but didn't have a tv so used to go to the local ice-cream shop and watch it there for a penny (old one!).
  11. In my engineering days, anything fitted with loctite (screws etc), were given a sharp tap on the end before attempting to remove. This seemed to break-up the loctite and the screw could then be removed easily. Not sure how it wold work on a watch stem/crown. Perhaps giving the crown (stem-up) a good tap on a solid surface might do it, but not sure if enough force could be transmitted.
  12. Thanks for all your responses/advice. I have been freeing the balance cock from the plate then freeing balance wheel from the escapement then gently removing altogether with tweezers. I then tun it over for safe keeping. So generally following what has been suggested. I have not been removing the balance jewel, which is sometimes fixed so cannot be removed at this stage, so will try this next time. My tweezers are pointed so I may try and modify an old pair to be more specifically suited for this job, i.e. with wider/flatter jaws.
  13. I work a lot on small caliber (ladies watch size) movements but still have mishaps with the balance hairspring. These hairsprings are very fragile and easily bent and removing/replacing the balance assembly seems to be my problem. I would like any comments on the risks of deforming the hairspring by allowing the wheel to dangle during handling. I would also like to know if the position of the regulator arm/pins has any effect re risk of deforming the spring, should it be close to the stud or as far a possible from the stud, I normally leave it where I find it so the timing is close to what it was before dis-assembly. Any advice on techniques etc will be much appreciated.
  14. I too am in NW and a hobbyist of a few years. I second what Adam says and would also add that the mechanics are easy to understand but the touch and feel are very important. I cadged as many FOC non-runners as I could from local watchmakers, jewellers and charity shops, plus a few purchased NOS from the bay. I then just took them apart and rebuilt them a few times to get the feel of handling small parts with tweezers, working small screws, handling balances, mainsprings and oiling etc. Doesn't matter too much if you mess up and ping a few bits (you can then check out your eyesight etc !!!!). For the more valuable watches I always check spares availability before I even start, at least then I will know the cost of any mishaps (!!) and can be extra careful when handling hard to get parts, and maybe help me decide to leave it or not for another time when more experienced. Welcome to the friendliest and most helpful forum.
  15. I believe both the boot and pin are usually a friction fit in the balance cock. Cousins UK have a range of these available, so as a last resort (or necessity if you bust them!!) you could measure up the old ones before removing them and source some new ones to push in.
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