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canthus last won the day on December 11 2016

canthus had the most liked content!

About canthus

  • Rank
    WRT Addict

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Manchester, England
  • Interests
    Anything mechanical (even some electrics), preferably broken so I can research and repair!! Ex design/development engineer in several industries, latterly lubrication engineer. Now retired and enjoying my new hobby!

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  1. If you have a hot water system storage cylinder cupboard, leave it in that for a few days. The heat is gentle and dry and may help drive out the water. Could also leave it near the boiler which also get nice and warm. If it dries out and works again, you could carefully put the thinnest layer possible of epoxy around the edges to seal it up.
  2. Ah, lost springs, its 'ether' gone forever or may reappear when least expected. Just found a kif spring on my floor. Lost at least 9 months ago and the floor has been swept, tacky wiped, and examined with magnifying glasses since (looking for other lost parts) !!!! Can only assume it was stuck to the bottom of one of my storage boxes when I was looking for something else and it fell off.
  3. Going back to my uni days. Basic law was 'energy cannot be created or destroyed, it can only change form'. So as the spring energy drops that energy must be in a another form, ie friction, rotational inertia etc etc.
  4. Daft question, but, you haven't put the fork in upside down have you?
  5. Agree with above, pick the biggest, simplest and best quality you can afford to mess-up! Avoid ladies like the plague. When taking apart, take pictures and check front and backs of everything you remove, the Russian movements seem to like shims under the balance cock (these can easily be missed and lost). I disassemble by groups (ie balance +lever parts, barrel bridge parts, etc) and put each group in a separate pot, I always keep a written list of whats in each pot so I have across check in case parts go awol during cleaning etc!! Remove springs in a bag!! Keep tips of tweezers true and closing together (this will avoid pinging round parts, which tends to happen if the tips are fanned out in the slightest).
  6. Now managed to get a thin piece of steel wire to which I filed a taper and polished it and which now fits in the cannon pinion for a ladies watch. I mounted the tool in a small bench vice so that the screws end was upwards. This leaves 2 hands for turning the setting and pinching screws. It also made it much easier to fit the cannon pinion in position as it is fed downwards into the pinching slot to get the starting set point, and allows the wire to be manipulated to feel a good pinch status and allow removal of wire. I did note that the pinching screw can still be tightened beyond the stop screw setting due to flexibility of the arms, but this actually allowed a bit more control over the pinch !! The cannon seems to be working fine now.
  7. Molybdenum Disulphide is basically a solid dry lubricant that is mixed into an oil or grease. The moly is carried by the oil/grease to everywhere it contacts taking over from the oil or becoming active when the oil barrier is breached. It tends to 'plate out' onto surfaces so it can do its job. This can lead to build-up, especially in gear teeth etc, or take-up close tolerance clearances. Also the moly particles size can, relatively speaking, vary from coarse to very fine, the more industrial types will be coarser and unsuitable for fine mechanisms. Having worked with lubes in industry for many years, it was general practice to avoid moly or silicone based products if possible due to their plating out effects and their difficulty removal properties. Hope this helps a little.
  8. I have always said the older you get (and more forgetful!!) the more info you need on your watch. School years - no watch, time in any form does not matter. Young age - its just for fashion and maybe the 'time' matters now and again. Or maybe a smart watch for all the other rubbish. Prime working years - 'time and date' so you keep all those appointments, you know the days from your diary or when the weekend starts. Later years and retirement - 'time, date and day' as you lose track of what day of the week it is, as well as the date. Covid 19 - no watch just enjoy each day as it happens, you can't go anywhere and the missus will surely remind you of anything important !!
  9. I bought some Vetus tweezers a while back and also found them hard to compress so went back to my old cheapies. I also bought to do HS but didn,t risk it fortunately, else I might have been in same boat. HS not my forte at the best of times !!
  10. Offrei lists it as 063PZ5315 for case 166.0260 at $52 !! http://www.ofrei.com/page_168.html#18732 Scroll up/down for other cases. .
  11. I know one shouldn't use magnets near watches but I have used them near quartz watches without mishap.. The rotor is very magnetic and in my tests impossible to de-magnetize, and probably magnetizes other parts of the movement anyway. I would suggest cutting the end off a pin (to give a square end for better contact), attach a small magnet (I have some small disc ones rescued from gift box closures, they also help in seeking 'lost parts on the floor !!') to the pin and poke it in the hole for the stem, it might just hold onto the missing bit and allow it to be drawn out. Could possibly also just use a magnet on the old stem and try that. Finding a replacement stem may be less cost effective (see comments above) than a new movement anyway. SOO SORRY, I MUST HAVE MISSED ALL THE PAGES AFTER THE FIRST (2014) !!!
  12. Jon, I agree and take your point, was meant as a last resort solution, hence my comment to take great care.
  13. If you cannot insert the stem then you could try using a screwdriver in the ratchet wheel screw, turn to release the click and slowly allow the ratchet wheel to unwind the mainspring by controlling the turning of the ratchet wheel screw. Easier to do if the movement is in a movement holder. Be careful not to apply too much turning (to release the click) as it may over-tighten the ratchet wheel screw.
  14. Could one of the pallet stones be not engaging ?
  15. Here are some pics of my nail-clipper mods, for those hobbyists who do not have lots of cash!! Only cost would be for a suitable drill for the setting screw hole (tungsten carbide needed as material of arms is very tough), the rest from the 'bits box'. The original pin for the lever was 5mm diam hence the crimp screw diam, this could be different for other clippers. Any epoxy would do but JB weld sets very hard. The setting screw can be any size provided it does not compromise the integrity of the arm (ie weakening it across the arm) and the locking nut fit re fouling the crimp screw head. The crimp screw could be in the other way but thought easier to have both screw heads on same side.
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