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I haven't worked with this ROEDA Watch movement but I Think you have to lift the detent spring to the other side of the pin on the setting lever. I assume there also is somekind of spring too underneath the setting bridge which pushes on the yoke forward.

Elma cleaning machine!!!? NOT . I get me a staking set, set up a diy timegrapher ,lots of useful goodies you can get with that kind of money.

Its more than a bit different, it IS different! I've not not seen a jeweled pin levers besides the widely available Baumgartner and Bettlach calibers. I like your post...thanks. J

Here is Marks complete reply. Hi, no i'm sorry, this is not something I am willing to make unlimited. However, I have changed regular "Member"'s to be able to edit within 1 hour - currently only 799 out of 5700 members have contributed more than 10 posts in order to become upgraded to "Member" from "New Member", sad isn't it! "New Members" are locked in at 10 minutes. "New Members" are automatically upgraded after 10 posts. "Moderators" have unlimited time.

OK Andy, I'll get them posted tomorrow. Cheers, Bryan

If you have the funds buy a watchmaker lathe, accessories and learn how to use it. You may be become a good watchmaker as opposed to an equipped cleaner.

As a beginner hobbyists you don't need an €2,000 automatic cleaning machine. The same and less money can be spent of important tools like timegrapher, bench case opener, water pressure tester, lubricants and even a lathe. You can get an economic jewelry ultrasound cleaner but event that isn't mandatory.

This was fun, but looking at the quirky setup and how the bridges are fastened .. are you sure this isn't a Pin - Lever movement?

Something a bit different today, this 32mm Burgana from the 1950s and made by, er, Burgana who seem to have been in business from 1942 (although one source says 1952) until 1997. Bought for pennies as a non-runner, with a scratched dial and no case back, it lay untouched for long enough before I had the courage to introduce it to my watchmaker. Oh how he laughed. It runs on a 21j version of an Ebosa 27 pin-lever movement, “a new Roskopf automatic” according to, and apparently featured in, issue 17/1952 of the German “The Watch” magazine. It’s a bumper, but unusual in that the oscillating weight strikes on steel pins rather than the more usual springs. This movement doesn’t feature on Ranfft’s database but he described it in one of his auction sales as “absolutely rare”. So, for any members who haven’t seen one, here it is. Hopefully you can tell the “befores” from the “afters”. Regards.

Not the most easy watch to start with ? The broken post on the barrel bridge i have seen before. Common problem. You will have to find a new or used bridge. speedtimerkollektion had some before.

Yes, refined benzine is petroleum ether, naptha, shellite, etc, but native English speakers will confuse it with benzene, and tell you that is toxic (true), so better avoid that term on an international forum.

I suggest you remove the hands and see how it goes, if it still stops, remove the movement from the case and remove the dial and test. if it stops, let all the power down, remove balance and pallets, just give it a little power, see if the train runs free if so reassemble and try. If it doesn't then you need to look at the wheels in turn and check teeth pivots and pinions and jewel holes. If all fails let me know.

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. If you need help just ask. Photos help a lot nice and clear.

I don’t see any sign of any oil or grease. It just might be its hard to set because of lack of lube. One other thing, check you have screwed in the correct length screws, if you have put in the wrong screw it could be fouling the setting lever. Have you oiled the cannon pinion? if not you might strip the teeth of the wheels when it comes to setting the hands.

Here at the doctors site you can see how the keyless looks like when assembled. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Pobjeda

I messaged Mark yesterday. Waiting for reply. I'll let members know on this thread, unless Mark has other means of doing so.

Got it

Hey guys, just a short update. Thanks to rduckwor I was able to find a great paint and painted the watch bezel under the microscope. I am very pleased with the result, it was pretty timeconsuming though... took me about 4 hours. Would definitly do it again and also recommend it to others if you feel confident in doing this kind of work. By the way rduckwor send me a message with your PayPal email, your idea of emanel paint really helped me a lot and I would like to say thanks in some way. If there are any questions just ask me anything. I am happy to help.

Seen it but never used it. Looks like there are a lot of interesting movements . Mostly newer movements which is good. They are hard to find otherwise. I have even used this to find some odd movements . https://www.millsys-watch.co.uk/gents-watch-movements-21-c.asp

The book i am using calls the fork? the pallet, the wheel, the escapement wheel. And the bridge over the top securing them the pallet bridge. It is from 1957.

You may or may not be aware, but older movements can often be found at https://17jewels.info/ There is also the search facility of the encyclopedic Ranfft.de http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk This does include some older quartz stuff, but mainly mechanical.

Sfart with pocket watches. Buy two or more of thd same caliber. Ask questions on watchrepair and advice forum. Regards

Welcome to the forum and we hope you enjoy being here. It all depends on how far you wish to go in to the watch repairing . The thing to do is practise and best to do it on watches that are not expensive and if turned to toast get written off as experiance, So having said all that get on e-bay and pick up some russian watches for a pound or two, get some decent tools not too cheap and get stuck in. There are sites like Gleave & co and cousins.uk who have tech sheets on a lot of watches. And to quote Del boy " the world is your muscle"

Do you get the sound only when cased or is it ok out of the case.

Welcome here... I am new as well. Maybe you don't have to buy Chinese movements, maybe friends or family have broken watches in they're house they wan't to give to you? For example, my father gave me 5 pocket watches from around 1900, all not compleet, not that expansive, but I guess great to learn on because the parts are bigger than wrist watches.

Anyone for tennis? A Timex Snoopy from 1978 got the full treatment last night. This is not the more common Petite version, but a gents "Marlin/Viscount" sized one. The case appears to be the same as some of the other front loaders, but the crystal appears to be an extra high one, to accommodate the novelty hands. Since I don't have anything in this size, there was a lot of polishing needed to get the crystal back from wrecked, to almost factory condition. Needless to say it didn't work when it arrived, but internally it was in pretty good order, so a clean and a few drops of oil had it running well. Snoopy's model no is 3901910478 which is probably from the "Fun Timer" series. I think it would look good on a denim strap. I'll need to see if i can track one down. It seems to be enjoying its new lease of life, unlike the 1968 sunburst champagne dialed Marlin I was looking at, at the same time, which is still struggling to run for more than a few minutes, despite a rust removal session and two full cleaning sessions. That one needs a crown, but I'll post pictures if I have it all ticking nicely.

I do all of the above except I mount the cock on a flattened piece of Rodico and stick it down well. Good Luck, RMD

meant to say free shop tour included...but you can't go back and edit!

Toronto....let me know if you're down this way. Free shop lol

Thanks The wheel comes out without removing the fixed bridge. All good now. Thanks again. Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

Hi and welcome to the happy factory.

You don't want to see colored remains in a (skeleton) watch. The advantage of a colored medium is that you see what you have done.

As a general rule; Barrel: D5 Centre wheel: D5 3rd & 4th wheels: 9020 Escape wheel: 9010

I have been using Mark,s method with my L&R cleaning machine (that also ultrasonic cleans in all three jars) and perfect results every time. Pallets could be a problem if one of them is loose other than this scenario no problems.

I know this link is getting old but I just found Seiko's S-4 and S-6 lubricants and they are not one bit similar to the ETA thought to be their counterparts/substitutes. Here are some pictures: S-4 for barrel spring and some related parts (the black thing you find when you open those Seiko 5 barretls) For keyless works and related: (anything requiring thicker oil than Moebius 9010) Needless to say that Moebius 9010 is the lighter oil recommended Seiko call it Moebius A. It also uses it to lube the pallet fork jewels! (rather than Moebius 941! In any case, if working on Seiko's these could be the only lube needed. If working with Swiss movements then oil needs will vary according to different brands even if they are based on ETA ebouchees. (Also the size of the ligne will influence the type of oil use) Anyway, I hope this can help when choosing oils. Robert