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measuretwice

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measuretwice last won the day on July 19

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About measuretwice

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    Toronto

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  1. nice work and very inviting setup, way to go
  2. nice job! I just took apart a GE DC motor, one the expensive compound ones and the insulation going to the field coil was just falling off in my hand. Really disappointing, ended up scrapping it. Glad to see yours was fixable
  3. edit. I read in your other thread that Levin collets won't work, I guess my suggesting them is moot. It does surprise me though as there are lots of mentions of people using derbyshire collets in levin lathes
  4. i believe Derbyshire 10mm collets are the same as Levin 10mm's, as I understand it Levin pretty much copied Derbyshire. Not sure if that helps as the Derbyshire collets afaik are less costly than the Levin's. There is also Pultra (Smart Brown). Pultra collets will fit a Levin but not vice versa, they're a little tight.
  5. Pro? good god no, I barely know which way is up. Lots of machining tools large and small, been doing that for a long time, and its kindled an interest in watches and clocks
  6. meant to say free shop tour included...but you can't go back and edit!
  7. The old iron disease has got me in a death grip. I just can't go past a nice old machine and leave well enough alone. Anyway, great fun and lots of new projects added to the list to spruce these up. I was out of the house at 5:30 last weekend on a mission, got a Levin lathe, Hauser pivot polisher and a baby Jones Shipman cylindrical grinder. Some need a bit of work and cleaning, but most of the major bits are there. Snagged a nice 10mm Levin, don't really need another lathe, but this thing was so nicely accessorized I couldn't pass it up. Two Variable speed Levin drives, spindle and accessories, coolant, collect closer, tons of collets, 4 jaw, 3 jaw, faceplate, steady, milling attachment, turret tailstock, 2nd op double crosslide and the pièce de résistance, the drilling tailstock. This has its own drive and fine adjustment in two planes so you can perfectly centre it to the lathe's spindle. Its also got the threading attachment but no gears. The power pack is mess, as is the motor. Insulation in and out of the motor has crumbled, something shorted. I think I will scrap it and use a new 3Pp motor and vfd, but bury the vfd in the OEM control and use all the OEM controls so it look correct. Next is a Hauser pivot burnisher. You put a clock or watch wheel and shaft (takes 8mm collets), it spins it in collet at one end and jacot at the other and floods with with oil while you bring down a spinning carbide wheel to burnish the pivot (bearing journal). There's a very precise depth stop on the carbide wheel so you can control diameter. With an inverter and motor connected as delta this should be easy to get running King of the cool is the grinder. This is a Jones Shipman 520, a table top cylindrical grinder. Beautifully made piece, cross feed is graduated in tenths. It came with internal and external quils and holders, both centres and the workhead as well as an adapter so it'll take 8mm collets. It has flood and both the regular and internal attachments. The external is mounted and internal is on the bench will the quill is on the wood box. There's a busted oil cup I have to make parts for and figure the drive There is a huge overhead drive for this shown in my driveway, I can barely lift it. The drive is upside down, not shown are the uprights the drive mounts on so it sort of hovers over the machine. The idea is the motor is separated from the grinder and you can spin both the spindle and work. Not sure what I'll do here, store the drive and hook up something modern - fractional ho 3p with vfd and small countershaft (grinding spindle and work get drive in opposite directions) Last photo is it sitting on top of my horizontal mill to show how small it is - a cylindrical grinder you can pick up and carry!
  8. Toronto....let me know if you're down this way. Free shop lol
  9. TO's maybe a bit far then, but I've driven to Ottawa for stuff I wanted. They seem to come up regularly, nothing right now except an overpriced beater in Collingwood, but if I see anything I'll let you know
  10. where it Canada? They are on kijiji all the time. Other than that, I'd start with Perrins, best supply to watchmakers in the country afaik.
  11. Zero to do with watches, but the place has been a bit quiet and if all we talk about is watches, well, no one gets to know anyone. Five years ago after 25 years of professional services, I completely lost my mind and bought a defunct manufacturing business and have slowly been building it up. Here's some shots I took yesterday of a couple of current projects we're just finishing up; a medium size box girder overhead crane and a lugger truck body. Apparently we've got an 80ton crane coming in; 110' long, 5' box girder - that's a large crane! I mess about with machining, welding, electronics and bit of clocks and watches for kicks in my home shop, but I've a lot pride in the team here, these are the people who really know what they are doing. Hopefully we get some more day job "show and tell"s....
  12. For me its more of a general shop resource vs watch specific - something to be pursued if you like making things. I've not yet thought of any watch uses that it would just perfect for, but in general it opens up a lot of possibilities I bought a Prusa recently, it was supposedly highly rated.... look at all the useful stuff I've made! What a disaster! Anyway, I'm down on this crappy printer, I do keep working on trying to solve the bugs, as the potential capabilities it brings to the shop are really quite exciting. Prusa griping aside, check out the second image - a yoke for a dynamic balancer I'm making. A part like that would be near impossible except by casting and a pattern. Aside from making a pattern and doing a casting being a huge amount of owrk, its also unlike a casting in that you specific the "fill" percentage so items end up very strong and light - there's no other way to do things like that (3rd photo of partially printed parts so you can see the fill). In the photo its a 25% fill - interior is only 25% material
  13. Nothing there I need, but good on you to offer them for free to someone who does
  14. The spacers are just regular steel easily machined. They are ground not because they are hardened but rather that grinding is just a convenient way to get them the same length to a high level of accuracy. As a general statement, grinding is a level up from turning and milling insofar as accuracy and finish go. With a good grinder set up properly those parts should be the same length with less than a tenth (1/10,000", or a couple of microns) difference as was a have flat and parallel faced (again to a tenth) which is the sort of accuracy you're shooting with bearing spacers and not that easy to otherwise accomplish. I've not heard tale of a spacers done for any other way for those reasons
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