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measuretwice

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measuretwice last won the day on July 19 2019

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About measuretwice

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  1. ???? You read this in Machinery's Handbook? What machinery's handbook says is mineral oil is the most versatile and common lubricant. As posted early, that is what hydraulic oil is, is clean mineral oil without much in the way of additives (like motor oil has). Its one of the most common lubrication used in machine spindles and transmissions and is an excellent choice for plain bearings
  2. It maybe be that what your feeling a slight line or groove where the pin comes through the shaft, but that the surface of the top of the pin is not actuall proud of the shaft, i.e. its concentric and the same diameter. If it was sticking up, I'd think the bearing ID would be likely be a mess. If you have machines, the easiest way to tell is to put the shaft between centres and indicate the pin to see if its proud.
  3. Sounds frustrating, but I know there are other aspects that make up for it. I get its very different, been there several times, have one kid living there now and the other 3 all have lived there as well so I've some exposure, I'just never bought metal there. Wife and kids have been everywhere there, most often I'm left at home at the salt mine to pay for it all, they take me along occasionally. Will be back in the spring for the baby's graduation. As a tourist, that probably gives lots of visibility of the positives but not so much so on the day to day negatives. Still, there is manufacturing, so there must be an MRO metals supply chain. PS, You're technically correct, Canadians are Americans "(as in North American) however in the common vernacular here "American" means someone from the USA. I'm from and am in Toronto
  4. where are you located? Wouldn't ordering from the UK work? Sorry I can't help more help; I'm not there and have not bought metal in Europe. However I can't believe its that hard to find. Anywhere there is any manufacturing there's a supply chain that includes MRO quantity metals. O1 drill rod is so common you can get here at any place that sells machinist tools Here's a couple of MRO style service centres from a quick search https://www.metals4u.co.uk/ https://www.metalsupermarkets.co.uk/
  5. the pin was proud of the OD of the spindle shaft? that doesn't sound good....is the bearing it mates with damaged?
  6. Punches like that should not be from mild steel/case hardened, it pretty much has to be tool steel, through hardened and tempered. Its super easy to do, propane torch and a can of old oil. You're going to have to figure where in your market to obtain materials. Google what your equivalent is of O1 tool steel is in your market then google for who sells it. Its so common, there has to be some service centre (what places that sell metal are called) selling it - either bricks and mortar or online. Here (and in the US and I believe overseas as well) we have Metal Supermarkets which was started by friend of mine, Bill Mair. There are numerous mail order equivalents and lots of small independent service centres. Anyway, in a place like that, everyone of them will have O1 drill rod (silver steel in the UK) or its equivalent in a little rack by the cashier.
  7. PS I just realized the toolmakers block they're sitting on (its 4x4x4) is one of a pair I made and they were sent out for a commercial case hardening and then I ground them. They are suppose to be 50 thou deep. All the tapped holes were plugged to avoid hardening the threads.
  8. I probably wouldn't case harden a part like that, easier to grab a piece of tool steel, heat and quench. Because the centre is still ductile, case hardened parts are not usually tempered and you don't want dead hard threads, they're brittle. I'd probably make it from a steel that could be through hardened. Where it shines is when you want parts with a dead surface bu still have the flexibility of a ductile centre As for recipes etc, I have enough knowledge to understand the application insofar as use and design goes, but I've always sent parts out to commercial heat treaters for case hardening.....so don't often do so unless there is some specific advantage to casehardened the part. Lots of info out there for you uncover, I'm just not the guru on specific pack hardening recipes. Bone meal is one, but I understand it stinks something fierce so would be better done outdoors. That, and you need a away to hold the steel above the critical temp during the soak There is a quick and dirty approach, but you'll only get a few thou or so depth with a couple treatments. You get the piece red hot with a propane torch and roll the piece around in Kasenit. It does work for wear, but its not very deep. I have done that method many times. Kasenit isn't made anymore, but I understand there's a replacement. Just for interest, here's some model hit and miss engine parts I did a Kasenit case hardening on
  9. There are many ways, the basic theory is you expose the material to carbon for a length of time over the critical temperature and the carbon "soaks" into the material. Enough so that when quenched, the carbon % is high enough on that outer layer to harden. This works with pretty much any mild steel. Depth of the case is proportional to the soak time - it maxes out at about 0.050" with a 24 hour soak. Its not so much a replacement for tool steel, but rather offers different advantages; steel is cheaper, core is still ductile, you can block the carbon from getting to some areas so control what is hardened and what is not. Most techniques involve some nasties, cyanide salt bathes etc best left to commercial shops. However beautiful work can be done in the home shop via pack case hardening - literally packing the work in say bone meal in a sealed container then holding it at heat for the required length of time (depends on depth wanted). This produces the fancy colours, like the gunsmiths strive for or Starrett used to put on tools.
  10. It can't be hardened. Well, at least in the usual sense.... it can be case hardened. Agreed on the welding....if needed I braze it
  11. I really like the height adjustment part of that design, so much nicer than the futz about and guess method of getting the across-the-flat dimension where you want it
  12. 3 hour workshop.....does that mean they'll all have lathes and be trying things? You could hold a class for half a football team and give them each their own lathe to use lol. Three hours is a lot of air time to fill without including a pile of audience activities. I would say the approach and content would be dependent on who the audience is, and what the venue/media/forum. Whats their knowledge level on a) watches and b) machining? I've not taught a class but I've written many articles and I see a similarity in that I think either make you better at it. You might know 95% of a topic which is perfect for heading into the shop and making something, but all of sudden when giving instruction you feel a lot of pressure to figure out and know cold that last 5%!
  13. Re material to make screws from. Is it common practice in watchmaking to harden the screws? As a general statement, O1 is not the nicest material to thread, it would be a lot nicer to use say 12L14 - a free machining steel (often referred to a screw stock). You'll get a much better finish on the threads and its a lot easier on the tool. otoh there is also no doubt that hardened and tempered bit of tool steel will have a much higher tensile strength than 12L14. Just wondering what the de rigueur is of watch screw manufacturing?
  14. Drill rod is a bit colloquial, a term for readily available round tool steel. It is usually O1, but doesn't have to be. When buying it would commonly be called "O1 drill rod" for example. The Brits call it silver steel. Not not sure the equivalent European grade for O1, but that's easily found out
  15. It might be a bit like some guys modifying cars.... tell them its made out of aircraft billet and the price doubles but they'll turn their nose up at 6061 AL Afaik there is no advantage to a synthetic oil over regular mineral oil until the temps get over 135C, and if you're getting your lathe than hot you've got other problems. I've not heard anyone advocated synthetic oils for machine plain bearings, some very exacting like say Schaublin or Jones Shipman, as it just doesn't get hot enough to need it I agree with you, a slow speed, well made plain bearing is going to be forgiving so its all good. Of the many I've had apart, lots over 100 years old, I've only seen one that was destroyed and pretty sure it was just abused/not oiled
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