measuretwice

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measuretwice last won the day on December 18 2017

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About measuretwice

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  1. RPMs for Lathe Work

    lol, yes copper is crazy. Start working out the amount of engravers brass require to make a clock and its equally disheartening. One of the photos above shows a quick and dirty lapping of a piece of carbide - just an old piece of AL, some diamond embedded and a bit of water. You can put a mirror finish on with 10 micro paste and needs about no tools....just saying there are lots of ways to come at it, and they don't have to be complicated.
  2. RPMs for Lathe Work

    Thank you for the compliment. I come to horology (a beginner) with 25 years of a model engineering/machining experience, last count at home there are 7 mills/jig borers and 16 lathes (a few have to go).....so yeah, I'm seriously afflicted . Better than a life spent in the pool halls I suppose (what I keep telling the wife). When it comes to making parts there is lots and lots of overlap and also lots new to learn (and tools/machines to acquire). As well there are lots of tool making applications with horology. I suppose all that is why horology appeals to me. Anyway, the machine was specifically built for sharpening scraper blades (machine tool scraping) and its construction was part of a 12 parts series I did in Home Shop Machinists on scraping/machine tool reconditioning. Scraping requires a very fine edge and they don't last long, so putting one on quickly matters Copper makes a great lap, depending. Mainly you want something softer than the work but imo something more substantial is preferred for a flat lap. I use copper in internal laps (photo below). Compared to other laps they are sacrificial in that there is lose abrasive present, when too worn a new layer of copper is soldered on. Whereas the rotary lap above is charged by pressing the diamond into it, there is no loose abrasive. With a flat lap properly charged, the surface of the lap is never touched and maintains its geometry. Here's a couple of shots of internal copper laps I've made as well as one showing how I charge the wheels on the rotary lap - just a bearing held in a vise grip
  3. RPMs for Lathe Work

    I made a rotary diamond lap for sharpening carbide scrapers (used in machine tool reconditioning), perhaps similar to thing called an electric hone? Doesn't matter, was just curious as i'd not heard of an electric hone. As for hand held, you can get the diamond "stones" as shown below where the sell stuff to woodworkers, i.e. Lee Valley. You need a few grits likely and for you need the finest. They come in many sizes, but these standard stone sized one's feel about right imo. For an even better finish (the edge you achieve is the product of two finely finished surfaces), a bit of diamond past on a piece of cast iron or AL makes an excellent lap. 10-12 micron paste (by it where toolmakers stuff is sold, ie KBC tools) it will put a mirror finish on. Photos to make it more interesting - the first is the rotary lap I made, it could be used for the ends of gravers, I made it for machine tool scrapers which need constant resharpening...scaping is close to impossible without one. The disks are cast iron and you make them a lap by charging with diamond paste, the tool never touches the CI and is cut by the damond. Next is diamond paste lapping and last, are diamond "stones" which, in its finest grit, is probably the most practical and easy to use and what I'd recommend and found quite up to task of graver sharpening. PS, bit of sharpening theory. An edge is where two planes meet. The better the finish on those planes, the better the edge. you also want the grain the sharpeing 90 degrees to edge, i.e. not parallel. With most tools, be it a wood plane iron, machine tool scraper or graver, you want finish the long surfaces leading to the end once and thereafter sharpen by removing material from the end. With a graver, in my experience you do have to properly finish those surfaces leading to the end....if the thing is mounted on a AL handle this can be awkward, a small diamond slip stone or lap would be helpful.
  4. RPMs for Lathe Work

    you pretty much have to have diamond to cut carbide, especially to a fine finish like you need for a graver. Silicon carbide can also grind it, but the finish is poor. Not sure what an electric hone is, but I sharpen all manner of carbide tools - whether lapping paste and bit of cast iron, flat stone style or various wheels....it needs to be diamond to do a good job with carbide. imo you do want carbide for hardened steel. They just last so much longer. I've made gravers by taking a small blank of carbide and silver soldering it to a length of steel....but I'm super cheap
  5. Unknown lathe

    PS.....you've got an added challenge in that it didn't come with collets. 8mm is far from universal, there is some variance lathe to lathe, threads, length etc, so you might want to get some different 8mm collets and try them
  6. Unknown lathe

    That's too bad. My first thought was to make the broken base the sellers problem and return it, but you did ok on the purchase and the lathe is certainly uncommon, rare even. On the tailstock, if you're keeping it, I would do nothing. There is, imo, not enough meat there to tap/pin it together. Brazing rather than welding would be how to reattached a bit of likely cast iron or cast steel, but putting that much heat into the part will likely damage the chrome and more importantly carries the risk of the metal to moving. When at heat, stresses in the metal readjust and new equilibrium is reached - this carries the real risk of upsetting the very carefully done fit and alignment of the tail stock quill. You can't isolate the heat either when brazing CI, you have to kind of bring the whole thing up
  7. Unknown lathe

    You bought a Perton....or at least the heastock is http://www.lathes.co.uk/perton/ I never owned one, but I would speculate that the low oil cups might feed the bearings via wicks
  8. I'm back

    hey...welcome to the forum!
  9. Heat treatable steel could be a wide range of things but it usually implies a typical tool steel - O1, W1, A2 and so forth. imo you don't want to mess about with mystery metal, to much goes into a part to not have the heat treating go as planned. Its readily available in a huge selection of shapes and widths as "ground flat stock" with Starrett being the preferred supplier (Starrett does things properly and you can trust what you are getting) Industrial supply, places that sell to tool and die/machining is where you will find it. McMaster Carr and MSC are the big catalogue houses in the US. Here for example is KBC's listing for 18" long Starrett O-1. Naturally, its sold in an annealed condition. Hope that helps https://www.kbctools.ca/products/TOOLROOM ACCESSORIES/STOCK MATERIAL/FLAT STOCK/1648.aspx
  10. Movement Ultra-sonic cleaning

    lol that is what I meant. still couldn't avoid mixing them up
  11. Movement Ultra-sonic cleaning

    That's what I kept thinking.....thanks JDM for the explanation. Anyone know if Benzene called that in North America? Where would you buy it? I can't recall every seeing it.
  12. Movement Ultra-sonic cleaning

    I have an ultrasonic cleaner and have used the L&R solution which works well. Its a heated tank of moderate size. I've also used various other solvents on non horology cleaning jobs. Do exercise some care using heated solvents! One thing that I find a pita with ultrasonic cleaners is the size of the tank demands a lot of fluid that its not easily sealed or drained. Fill it up with expensive solution and watch it evaporate, or quickly look like black juice form hell. Instead, I fill the tank with water, and then suspend the items in a container with the solvent and parts in the container. The contain is either a plastic bag or glass jar, either of which the ultrasonic waves travel through. A favorite is glass preserving jaws as they are easily sealed so the solvent doesn't evaporate. Because you are using so much less solvent, the Scottsman in me has less issue throwing it away when it looks dirty. I've often wondered about the use of ultrasonic machines in horology. I know its widespread and many clock repairmen seek out large ultrasonic machines that will fit an entire movement. The concern i have is that the ultrasonic action vibrates the parts against each and creating wear. You should never for example ultrasonically clean a roller element bearing, the micro collisions between ball and race can brinell the surfaces. It may be simply that the ultrasonic cleaning causes so little wear, that its just not considered material vs quickly and efficiently getting the job done.....but they will wear whatever parts you put in them by rubbing and colliding (albeit on a small scale) them against each other and the container they are it. I don't know if watch guys think of this or think its a factor, but I'm coming to this from a different mechanical trajectory where the merits and limitations of cleaning this way would be considered (ie cleaning bearings) imo the L&R wash machine with the L&R solution is tough to beat to for watches. That solution just works so darn well!
  13. Removing rusty screw from mainplate

    no need to order, you can get it at the grocery store.....just tell them there's a rusty screw in your watch. (first part is true at least, its used in pickling)
  14. Removing rusty screw from mainplate

    As a sidebar, alum in boiler water is an old trick to remove a broken tap if its broken in AL or a copper alloy (non ferrous). After a few hours it turns the tap into sludge. Boiling and hours is a lot harsher treatment than JDM recommends, so a shorter soak might be just the thing to eat up enough of the expanded iron oxide to free things up. The point though is alum can dissolves steel quite effectively so try to keep other bits of ferrous out of the mix and if they have to be there, don't leave it on the stove overnight with other bit of ferrous metal still attached
  15. This is Elgin 18 from the late 19th century. I really like the watch, but it needs a lot - hands, balance staff, hairspring and crystal. Anyway, I just could not get the bezel to unscrew, impossible to get a grip. I found a video by tshackantiques on how to remove bezels (or backs) using a hot glue gun. I couldn't believe how well it worked! Run a bead of hot glue carefully around the bezel. The heat expands the bezel which helps. Stick the lid from an appropriately sized jar to the bezel. While the glue is still in a plastic state, it has a lot of holding power and the grip the lid gives makes it a piece of cake to unscrew the bezel. When cool, it does not stick to the metal and picks off very easily.