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measuretwice last won the day on March 2

measuretwice had the most liked content!

About measuretwice

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  1. Staking set - bit missing?

    yeah, I think you're right, the drawing above will just spin. While i'm bouncing around a bit, it has to be the first idea, a bush with the OD close to the hole in the post....either that or a combination of the two, an offset hole but not offset quite as much as the eccentric pin.
  2. Staking set - bit missing?

    hmmm, apologies if I led you astray. Looking at it again, perhaps what is required is a piece who's OD matches the post hole, and and has a hole to match the eccentric pin, but that the hole is offset by how much the pin is eccentric. Clear as mud? something of this shape:
  3. Worn non jewel pivot holes

    isn't it an issue locating the hole properly? In that the above locates based on the existing hole, but if its worn its a bit elongated so its centre location, that a tool will follow, has changed slightly?
  4. It's time to take a break when ...

    make sure you wear your safety glasses
  5. thats a very capable little machine that you can do a lot with and have a lot of fun with, nice raffle prize! Take khunters advice and locate the hole with a very small punch mark. Drills generally need a place to start - punch or spot drill. Especially true on cross drilling as the round surface makes it very easy for the drill to deflect off to the side
  6. I don't think they were ever made in the Us, Unimats were made in Austria. 12mm is close to 1/2 but I think you'll find its 12mm. 1/2 20 would be slightly large, It would be a loose fit with 1/2 20 and the register part of the spindle wouldn't register. Try a 1/2 20 bolt in the 4 jaw, it should be very tight or more likely won't go
  7. The Unimat db200/SL1000 had a 12mm spindle thread and the U3 a 14mm spindle thread. afaik that was universal. A deviation would be a be big deal as accessories wouldn't fit - where did you come across a unimat with 1/2 spindle thread?
  8. Advice on sourcing lacquer

    good point. I wasn't really interested in the epoxy, was more just trying to give broader coverage to the topic but if its not removable with lacquer thinner its a valid reason not to use it. For horology or models the lacquer applied for aesthetics and shouldn't see wear.....vs a door knob or knocker etc I don't really think the epoxy is necessary. I ended up getting some lacquer from Perrins, night and day difference from big box stuff (you'd think I'd know better by now). The Perrins was transparent with a slight yellow tint whereas the big box stuff was completely cloudy, opaque. I ended up reducing it 4:1 and spraying with an airbrush. I'd previous been pointed toward dipping as the best way to go. I tried this with the big box stuff, but it uses up a lot of chemicals as the largest part was maybe half the size of a carriage clock - you have to fill a largish dip tank. With the new bottle of the good stuff (i'll post the brand later when its in front of me) I didn't want to use it all up in one go so went back to spraying. It worked well. So the conclusion is the key is a quality lacquer and spraying works well with a 4:1 reduction
  9. Strange Lathe Thread

    if it works, good on you...I'd have thought it would be problematic getting it to stay in place and perhaps create balance issues.
  10. Staking set - bit missing?

    agreed....doesn't have to be fancy, worth a try
  11. Staking set - bit missing?

    lol.....well, with a bit of ironwood, maybe
  12. Staking set - bit missing?

    There doesn't look like any visible amount of wear there. Have you a lathe? just turn a brass bushing
  13. Staking set - bit missing?

    when its assembled, am I safe in assuming that the reduced diameter eccentric portion of the shaft is in the hole? If just extremely worn, said eccentric portion would not look round when viewed from the end. My guess is there should a bushing on it - make something with the ID = the eccentric portion and the OD fitting the hole in the post. I've not seen one like that before, just mechanically speculating
  14. Strange Lathe Thread

    Use two nuts, tighten them against each other - lock nuts. afaik that is the OEM set up for that machine. I mentioned it before - you don't like that approach? For lots of reasons I think trying plastic deformation of the nut will be a problem and have not seen a machine put together that way.
  15. Strange Lathe Thread

    This is not it an acme thread. There is no reason to think it was and lots to think it wasn't, but proof positive is that the metric nut fit perfectly. Why do you need to cut it and want to compress it? imo this is fruitless exercise; describe what are you trying to achieve and if I can I'll be glad to describe how to get there....but imo its not going to be through the plastic deformation of a nut.