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measuretwice

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measuretwice last won the day on July 19

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  1. I really like the height adjustment part of that design, so much nicer than the futz about and guess method of getting the across-the-flat dimension where you want it
  2. 3 hour workshop.....does that mean they'll all have lathes and be trying things? You could hold a class for half a football team and give them each their own lathe to use lol. Three hours is a lot of air time to fill without including a pile of audience activities. I would say the approach and content would be dependent on who the audience is, and what the venue/media/forum. Whats their knowledge level on a) watches and b) machining? I've not taught a class but I've written many articles and I see a similarity in that I think either make you better at it. You might know 95% of a topic which is perfect for heading into the shop and making something, but all of sudden when giving instruction you feel a lot of pressure to figure out and know cold that last 5%!
  3. Re material to make screws from. Is it common practice in watchmaking to harden the screws? As a general statement, O1 is not the nicest material to thread, it would be a lot nicer to use say 12L14 - a free machining steel (often referred to a screw stock). You'll get a much better finish on the threads and its a lot easier on the tool. otoh there is also no doubt that hardened and tempered bit of tool steel will have a much higher tensile strength than 12L14. Just wondering what the de rigueur is of watch screw manufacturing?
  4. Drill rod is a bit colloquial, a term for readily available round tool steel. It is usually O1, but doesn't have to be. When buying it would commonly be called "O1 drill rod" for example. The Brits call it silver steel. Not not sure the equivalent European grade for O1, but that's easily found out
  5. It might be a bit like some guys modifying cars.... tell them its made out of aircraft billet and the price doubles but they'll turn their nose up at 6061 AL Afaik there is no advantage to a synthetic oil over regular mineral oil until the temps get over 135C, and if you're getting your lathe than hot you've got other problems. I've not heard anyone advocated synthetic oils for machine plain bearings, some very exacting like say Schaublin or Jones Shipman, as it just doesn't get hot enough to need it I agree with you, a slow speed, well made plain bearing is going to be forgiving so its all good. Of the many I've had apart, lots over 100 years old, I've only seen one that was destroyed and pretty sure it was just abused/not oiled
  6. No disrespect meant to him or anyone else....no doubt he's forgotten more than I know about watches and clocks, but I'm leery of 'expertise creep'....i.e. horology expertise doesn't mean (necessarily) tribology expertise. otoh I fully prepared to be wrong, maybe there is a great reason for the recommendation
  7. I understand someone recommended it, it just strikes me as an odd recommendation so I was curious as to the rational. There is no reason (I'm aware of) to use multigrade or synthetic oil in a plain bearing, or for that matter any lathe...but if there was I'd like know. Wasn't the recommendation 0W20 at first, its big difference to between 0 and 5....like 3 to 20 ISO. A view with a tool is often that success is measured by whether it gets the job done. Thats fair, but doesn't hold up with machine lubrication....i.e. making a part isn't the metric of success, its whether 20 years from now its still in great shape making parts....something that is harder to assess. these bearings seem quite resilient, so it may be a bit academic....cleanliness and diligent oiling probably matters more
  8. hope it helps. As it seems you are UK based, you also might inquire about a local model engineering club. Most of what I saw in the video was fairly generic stuff and may appeal to various hobbies centre around machining other than horology (and many model engineers also build clocks). The UK is the centre for model engineering, you might find that including that fraternity greatly increases the target market size
  9. It seems an odd choice, but it may not do harm. imo there is no reason to use a multiweight oil, but maybe there are good reasons I missed. I also don't see a reason to use a synthetic oil, won't hurt, but they are more money. Regular oils don't break down until 270F - there's some serious issues if that's a factor with a lathe . It seems a topic full of hyperbole and little expertise; there's one horology oil report claiming synthetic oils don't contain hydrocarbons! What nonsense.. Multiweight oil are designed for internal combustion engines where there's a big temperature swing. The low initial viscosity helps get oil pressure built up quickly and makes cold cranking easier. But the engine quickly gets up 220F or so and the oil operates at its high viscosity (oil viscosity is determined at a set temp, i.e. an oil of X viscosity means its X at 40C, it will have a very different viscosity at 110C). Your lathe just doesn't go through the same temp swings, say -40 to +220 n the dead of winter so I don't see how a multigrade makes any sense....except maybe because is readily available? In general with machines, motor oil is really frowned on because of the additives and detergents. They're are needed do deal with combustion, but not wanted in a gearbox/bearing bath. Watchmakers lathes are a total loss system so these objections I don't think matter much, but its worth mentioning in the context of machine tools and oils. With a 0W20 run a low temps, you're really only going to see the "0". The zero isn't really zero, its just small, maybe the equivalent to ISO 3 or maybe 4. ( 0 Viscosity is superfluidity, liquid helium laboratory stuff). So what really matters? That its a clean mineral oil (i.e. hydraulic oil) and of the right viscosity (singular) So that's the real concern I had, Is ISO 3 or 4 enough? I'd have guessed no, but maybe. Most of these lathes don't come with a viscosity recommendation. Clock oils often recommended are afaik much higher than 3-4 but (snake?) oil marketing, while full of lofty claims, rarely even states the viscosity! . I suppose it can be overthought, these lathes seem to easily last 100 years with whatever is put into them,. So long as the oil is thick enough to keep the parts separate at speed, its thick enough. Still, i think synthetic and multigrade oils in a plan bearing are, well, just not required.
  10. I'm sure there is lots a jeweler can contribute here, fairly new to watchmaking myself but I have a good amount of machining experience. Oil - any light clean mineral oil. Hydraulic oil, say ISO 10 isn't a bad choice. Hydraulic oil is essentially very pure mineral oil without additives - great for machine tool use. i use ISO 32 in most of my larger machines. Many use clock oil as well, which, afaik, is just a light mineral oil. The bearing clearance is adjustable, get it so it doesn't run hot with the viscosity of oil you've chosen Do take it apart inspect and clean. Do oil at every use. take the belt of and rotate by hand to ensure a good coating of oil over the bearing before powering up Speed. Definitely limit, best with a pulley ratio. I don't think I'd want to spin those plain bearings lathes anymore than 2000, or less. As a practical matter, you don't need it to go that fast...you do want a foot controlled variable speed. You to some extent control the removal rate with speed Tension. It doesn't take much, and you don't want too much because its a plain bearing. The belt in large part grips because its the right size to wedge itself in the V - if its bottoming out it will slip. My preference is to make poly urethane belts; it provides a fairly high coefficient of friction with the pulleys. Pulley divot: Don't worry about it, it won't affect performance (post a pic, I'm guessing its not half the pulley). Its probably bakelite and these can be repaired by grinding up/sanding into dust some of the parent material, using that to colour some epoxy, and apply. Its a pita and not worth it for this, imo.
  11. yup, go by the caveman's dictum: far easier to beg forgiveness than ask permission
  12. Darak, yes, thanks for that. Andy, I don't know about a robot, but a device that acts as a trap on a vacuum hose might might be the next best thing....and would be printable. Frank Ford is an accomplished lutheir and has a lot of machine projects, really great site. Something like this, perhaps with a super fine screen (like you get with a funnel for fuel) might be designed around a 3D printer. I bought a 110V hand held vac to help find parts, but something like this would be the Cadillac Franks device: http://www.frets.com/HomeShopTech/ForFun/ScrewFinder/screwfinder.html Franks site (worth a meander) http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/pagelist.html the Home Shop Tech "dept" has the shop projects like this
  13. Location might help with ideas. Yours is always a challenge. You could give it to some worthy and lucky chap, but how do you find the right candidate? Find the nearest NAWCC and advertise in their newsletter? Put it up as best offer with X% donated to them? If the goal maximize the dollars (doesn't sound like it), start photographing each piece and listing it on the local e classifieds - obviously a huge time commitment, ugh. Or list as a package deal with a low price to more or less induce the sale. Many I'm sure would be happy to get all of it at some bargain price, but few woke up this morning with all of it on their shopping list - for quick and painless, you have to price induce the sale imo. Its the age old problem for those of us in specialty hobbies amassing a world around us. In a way we're all just caretakers of this 'stuff' so I guess what matters is goes to the next caretaker vs scrap bin or rusting away somewhere which is sounds like is the intent
  14. I think beryllium copper is the likely material, in non ferrous materials, springs are usually it or phosphorus bronze. You could engineer a replacement out of steel (say 1095) but the BC doesn't rust which is one of its advantages. BC is unike any copper you've worked. Its strength is roughly 4x that of mild steel - it can get up to 200,000 psi for example. Its heat treatment is also different other copper alloys, which for the most part heat to anneal and work to harden. Its so strong its used for things like hammer heads and wrenches in no-spark environments Most stunningly, the stuff can be deadly. Well ok, a bit of hyperbole there, its safe as a sold, but inhale the dust like might come of from filling, polishing or machining and it does a lot damage up to potentially killing those who have a strong reaction to it. It don't knowingly let in the shop for fear I'll forget one day and not take precautions. Perhaps i'm being paranoid as its not a restricted material, and I do not know how much you'd have to breath to be at risk, but it is a nasty material. I know one account of a guy's son who's health was pretty ruined so I just avoid it. Just offered as a heads up if working with it. To make one, perhaps if you could get 302 or 316 stainless foil/sheet? As for BC, here's a source for the foil http://www.goodfellow.com/E/Copper-Beryllium-Foil.html and heat treat info https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=2ahUKEwi_z8fZ2OLlAhUBneAKHdTRCvcQFjAAegQIBRAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fmaterion.com%2F-%2Fmedia%2Ffiles%2Falloy%2Ftech-briefs%2Fat0015-0311---tech-briefs---heat-treating-copper-beryllium-parts.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1EAXwjgyEz0P10Yz8By_Gw BC safety I'd wear a filter mask and for sure use coolant if machining or otherwise cutting it https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=12&ved=2ahUKEwiOpND43OLlAhXywVkKHePyB1cQFjALegQIABAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fmaterion.com%2F-%2Fmedia%2Ffiles%2Fcorporate%2Fbesafetyfacts%2Fsf101-safetypracticesformachiningcube.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0SRVup9TS1JAU6aejkKNt5
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