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measuretwice

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measuretwice last won the day on March 13

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About measuretwice

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  1. Nothing there I need, but good on you to offer them for free to someone who does
  2. The spacers are just regular steel easily machined. They are ground not because they are hardened but rather that grinding is just a convenient way to get them the same length to a high level of accuracy. As a general statement, grinding is a level up from turning and milling insofar as accuracy and finish go. With a good grinder set up properly those parts should be the same length with less than a tenth (1/10,000", or a couple of microns) difference as was a have flat and parallel faced (again to a tenth) which is the sort of accuracy you're shooting with bearing spacers and not that easy to otherwise accomplish. I've not heard tale of a spacers done for any other way for those reasons
  3. Wanting to do a bearing replacement on a nice Boley Leinen ww-83 I picked up recently, nicklesilver gave me the idea of using angular contact bearings instead of deep groove bearings. AC's need a way of preloading them and need to be installed adjacent to one another or with precision spacers between them. I splurged for the expensive p4's and while they are the right diameters, they're thicker than the OEM deep groove bearing so I had to make both spacers. I bought universal matches AC's so if I ground the spacers exactly the same, it should be the right preload. So far so good, but it did seem like the preload was almost a tad heavy. The groove in the outer spacer is for a felt oil wick Drive. As nice as this lathe is, the drive was terrible. Basically a universal motor with a great big rheostat, yuck. I had a consew motor (variable speed servo) that I moved from below the bench to the back and connecting it to a jack shaft bolted to the bench. I took the brushes out of the motor so its also just a jackshaft, er, flywheel. I made a control box so I can switch between rheostat control of the motor and foot control - you want both for different ops. Its actually a better arrangement as the Consew is mounted on an adjacent bench so zero vibration reaches the lathe. I'm stuck with the hole in the bench....have to 3d print some tool tray thing and make it look intentional. I've 1/2 a dozen watchmakers lathes, each one has something unique, so the idea is they're out of the way in a cupboard but can be placed in front of the jackshaft and set to running in seconds....keeps the bench less crowded and I only have to have one drive. This one has the rare thread cutting attachment, which even has tumbler! To use it though, I'll have to rig up a toggle reverse switch (the consew is a bit of a pita to reverse) I replaced the bearings in the motor and counter shafts as well, stripped and repainted and installed the new p4 spindle bearings. Not shown is a full set of change gears, milling spindle and second 3 way slide rest. I think I'm having too much fun big headstock.....little headstock
  4. I posted here because its not a watch repair, but the techniques are the same or similar. I've some cracked jewels in a nice German 1/10,000" dial indicator. They're reminiscent of old style rub in jewels in chatons, but there's not really any sort of lip or anything else where you'd close it in to hold the jewel. So the first question is how is the jewel held in the brass chaton? Cement? would it just press out? The second question is where does one get large size jewels like this? OD of the chaton is 3.5mm, Diameter of shaft going into the jewel is 1mm. Buy blanks and turning the down is a possibility, but not sure where to source blanks. The value of these old indicators isn't so high that there's a big budget, so it probably needs to be a low cost source of jewels - unlike a Rolex, if you start spending $20 each on a couple of jewels, its not worth it. I could just turn bronze bearings, but of course ideally I'd like to keep its original quality and performance with jewels I've got several instruments with similar requirements, they've been waiting for a stroke of genius and there's been none! any ideas welcome, thanks PS, in looking for ideas I came across this video and was really impressed - this guy does rub in jewel replacements including home made tools and grinding them to size...all with a dremel!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3gxp96WjCI
  5. we're skirting the edge a slippery slope......how long before someone notes" $10,000 for a watch! wtf, my phone has the time on it!" . Point is we're in a space that depends on being driven by more than meeting just the minimal needs. There's a pride of ownership thing, but maybe that's just BS tripping. However the quality mix decision should also include "trust" and "pleasure of use" Trust means should expect the best performance from a quality brand without crossing ones fingers. Even though sometimes they fail with that, its far less frequent and there's usually recourse vs the low cost items. Pleasure of use is a simple thing I've realized after close to 30 years of shop experience; really nice tools are a pleasure to use and less nice ones are a frustration. As I do this for fun, for self actualization, I want it to pleasurable not frustrating. I've put together a workshop largely of the best stuff, but its been done slowly and inexpensively (truth be told, with a bit of buying and selling along the I really don't have much into it) through used tool purchases, estate sales, package deals etc. Its the old cliche, you want it now, great quality and low price: pick two. Its a personal decision, I chose high quality and low price.
  6. At a job interview someone is asked "what would you say is your biggest fault?" and answers "I'm too honest". The Interviewer explains "I don't really think that's a fault" to which the Applicant responds "I don't give a f**k what you think!"
  7. If not end mills, what are they are for? ER's are primarily a tool holding system (vs workholding). That super collet might have advantages over ER, (or could be hyperbole) but take a look at a tool changer on a typical cnc - I would say ER's are the most common way to hold end mills. Whether one is a bit better than another imo doesn't matter - anyone is 500x better than no collet for hardened tool holding. While ER's have the advantage of being able to hold a wider range of sizes, if I had a choice, I'd prefer a spit collet or ER. Nevertheless, availability, cost, small form factor and that its such a simple thing to mount on an existing spindle make them an easy and practical choice. As for length, so long as you grip enough so its solid, it doesn't matter that much - grip is a function of the coefficient of friction and force applied, it doesn't depend on surface area. As I said, point loaded chucks like a three jaw or drill jaw are intended for, and really only effective with soft material where they can get a bite so they don't slip under load. I suppose in engineering terms bite means the point load imparts a slight elastic (or often with work plastic) deformation of the surface under the jaws so the jaws don't slip. that doesn't happen with the higher tensile strength of a hardened piece. Will a 3 jaw work with an end mill? Yes you can get away with it to a point with extremely light use but it will be the first thing to fail and when it does you risk damaging the chuck jaws. Its something you do if you have to, but its not the best or right way. Finally, even if you have a soft shank, a collet is still a superior holder from the standpoint of runout. A three jaw will have runout so that the endmill often would cut on one tooth; machining takes longer, there's a high chance of breaking an endmill and a poorer finish are the results. If someone really want to improve the Unimat, a new spindle hardened and ground that accepted 8mm or even 10mm collets would take that machine to a new level. iirc, such a factory spindle was available; too bad they weren't more widely picked up as overall they are a neat little platform
  8. your location isn't shown - you're in North America? Try Perrin in Toronto, specialists and good to deal with. Their site is ok, but I think is only a fraction of what they sell so I usually call or email
  9. A good topic. I only have crap loupes, and its likely a problem. With them, 10x often doesn't feel like enough for lathe work.....perhaps better glass would change that. I had a young watchmaker over not to long ago. He did years in school in Switzerland and has his own business so is not a wannabe (like me). He said he spent over $100 on his loupe. Not sure where you go to get a loupe that expensive, but I guess the point is he felt it was a crucial tool where you should get the best. Probably something to consider in that. On all my cheapos, I've ended up grinding slots in them so they don't fog up. I think Bergeon has one with slots, but I always wonder why it wasn't more of a standard thing, no one else has them fog up? I also use various DIY rigs to hold them on my head - it always seem about impossible to hold onto with they eye for more than a minute or os
  10. The shank on a drill shouldn't be hardened - you might have noticed if you've ever had a one catch and pull a burr up on the shank, these are easily filed off because its not hardened. You can tell if something is hardened by running the corner of a file over it....skips and its hardened. starts to cut its not.
  11. There's truth to that. You often see people holding an end mill in a drill chuck (gasp) or three jaw. It can work, but is problematic in that the tool can slip which if excessive can even damage the chuck. These chucks get no bite in endmills which are hardened end to end. They're intended for work or drills (the end of which is not hardened) where they get enough of a bite so they can hold. You really should have a collect chuck or end mill holder for end mills I've a collet chuck for a U3, very simple affair - basically a screw on ER chuck. Probably wouldn't take much to have a batch made and sell on the fleabay
  12. Indeed. From the golden era of model engineering, those authors were all regular contributors to Model Engineer and they both really knew their stuff and had a friendly and pleasing voice. Model Engineer and one point was weekly and was popular enough that many made their living at it as authors. Worth noting, the Tubal Cain of ME and those books is not the youtube video person who took the same name. With a definite horology connection, Model Engineer ran numerous clock builds over the years A classic that should be on everyone's bookshelf, at least everyone interested in making things, is "The Amateurs Lathe" by Sparey
  13. Are we talking the blades or the body?
  14. agree with wls, its a walk away without baskets. The baskets for those have little hooks that hang on the three pins on the agitator, if you had to make them it would be a pita. As for jars, I think the the large straight neck paragon jars fit, but I haven't been able to get my hands on one .....you have to buy a case and shipping is more than the jars cost so haven't bothered (I only want them because they have screw on lids!). If anyone has tried them...I'd be interested if they in fact work
  15. What's the book? Its easy say, near impossible to do without a lot of special equipment. I believe the manufactures used special angled fixtures of their contrivance. I'm not sure there is a bigger machining challenge than getting a bi conical section mating to another to a high standard of finish and accuracy. but, imo, the starting point is whats the symptom/observation. If its just some very light scoring that might be taken out with fine stones (Arkansas or red ones, are ruby something)?
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