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measuretwice

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measuretwice last won the day on March 13

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About measuretwice

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  1. measuretwice

    Buying Tools in Canaca

    Virtually all US and Canadian goods have traded without duty for decades until the recent inane tariff wars, but I believe its where its made that determines duty, not where you buy it so it can vary. BUT..... no duty does not mean no cost. You still have to pay HST (VAT) and often have to pay crazy admin fees from the carrier. That imo is an unsavory business practice - I mean you know you have to do it so bake it into the price rather than stand extortion like on the stoop demanding extra money. UPS is particular bad, fees can be more than shipping. Best is the post....if I can't get a US seller to send via USPS I usually don't bother (there is a way around it, have it drop shipped to a service and then they reship to you via USPS). The other problem you get is some vendors insist they use UPS or Fedex or something rather than the post. This can turn $15 in shipping into $100. I believe Frie falls into that catagory, they have some strange and hostile feeling shipping policy if I remember. One of the best vendors in Canada is HW Perrin. Not much of web site but they are really helpful and in my experience they have or will get anything you need. That and kijiji, ebay (watch the shipping) and amazon.ca (check prices they are not necessarily lower!). I've mostly built my shop by buying up estates over the years that have come up on the classifieds....but obviously that will depend on patience and locations
  2. measuretwice

    Fake Omega

    I can definitely see it would negatively affect the brand. Lets face it, for someone wearing a Rolex, there is a very good chance being seen with a Rolex is a big part of it for them - that is really damaged if everyone is sporting perfect Rolex replicas. Then there is resale, if there were no knock offs, resale prices would be higher as knock off's introduce risk into the used market. I'd be leering about buying a used expensive watch, to point where I probably wouldn't for this reason. So I just proved (with a case study one lol) the damage done - less of resale market will impact the brand I hardly see counterfeit products as being "brand ambassadors". These are not copies, tributes or replicas, they are counterfeit products, something that is criminal in most jurisdictions With the time presented on every phone and computer, I'd argue for an expensive watch, telling the time is not the primary objective.
  3. good point, without the iron core they will be very close. No interest in over complicating things, I overlooked lack of the iron core. Point about caution on doing AC/coil/current calcs based on resistance stands as so often inductance is most of impedance
  4. hmmm careful, multimeters measure resistance and you can't figure current knowing resistance and volts if its an AC signal with a coil . I agree, if the power is given, then yes Ohm's law works, but we're dealing with with AC so the ohms has to be impedance not resistance....and you can't measure impedance with a multimeter (they measure resistance only, whereas impedance is resistance, inductance and capacitance, you need a fancy LCR). Look at it this way, if you connected a wire between the legs of AC mains, bang you blow the breaker. But if you coil that same wire, it now has inductance. That's why say a transformer (which is a wire connecting the mains but in a coil) doesn't blow the breaker. I think the right answer was given on the switch so all is good, just saying with coils and AC keep in mind inductance has to part of applying ohms law to get power Good job on the repair, it looks very professional
  5. measuretwice

    homemade cleaning machine ?

    no doubt with "a time for everything" playing. I saw them in Toronto, late 80's, great show. as for the cleaner, I make a lot of tools but I try to make things are that are unique and can't be easily purchased as to get similar performance its usually hard to buy all bits and pieces for what a used one sells for. Also, there are techniques to do it by hand in the interim until a good one comes along. I agree on the damage ultrasonic can do, for example you're not suppose to ever put rolling element bearings in them as the action will damage the ball and race. However I think its mitigated by technique: work the worst of any built up crude off mechanically first, don't put assemblies in,don't leave stuff in for longer than is needed and protect parts from metal on metal rubbing by suspending them in plastic baggies or (much better) glass containers. For example, put a part in a test tube by itself and hang from above. the part won't bang around against other parts or a steel basket and you use only a small amount of cleaner in the test tube (the main well has just water in it). Ultrasonic waves travel ok through thin plastic and very well through glass
  6. measuretwice

    Shaving a Jewel

    "Watchmaking" maybe the greatest book on the subject and it really is watchmaking, vs repair and service which most watchmaking books are focused on
  7. measuretwice

    Shaving a Jewel

    there is a fair bit on content in George Daniels book on making jewels, everything is done with diamond. good on you for solving the problem
  8. This just came out and I thought I'd share it with you guys. I've written lot of articles for Home Shop Machinist magazine over the years and this is a four part how- to-build-it series starting this month. The tool is an aid toward aligning machine tool ways when you scrape them, its my design but is patterned after a commercial one unavailable now for decades (It think mine has a number of improvements) . Fairly esoteric, but it generates a good bit of interest as scraping is a very cool thing in that with fairly simple hand tools you can take best of breed machine tools and restore the bearing surfaces to their original accuracy or better. Tenths of thou territory (microns for you guys across the pond ). Probably not many here into machining, but its my main hobby and what got me interested in clocks and watches. Cheers
  9. you're welcome ...fun to be able to help someone with watch stuff.....usually its me asking for help
  10. should get it in the mail tomorrow
  11. Well.....since I was so bullish on you getting the Star, I'm feeling bad its not yet working.....I'll make you a pulley if you like. One time offer, I am not going into pulley business lol. You have to supply a good dimensioned drawing of exactly what you want and postage.
  12. measuretwice

    Drilling a pivot problems

    I like the pivot drills, I've got a bunch they work well. Still, I'd be suggestion a hss drill over the carbide...their brittleness makes them very unforgiving as you found out the hard way
  13. measuretwice

    Drilling a pivot problems

    It might be that you haven't annealed it. Just heating to red doesn't anneal it, you have to cool very slowly - either as a cycle in a heat treat over or a box of ash (how I do it). The ash is an excellent insulator, put a red hot file in the ash and it can still be warm the next morning. If you just heat to red, a small part will immediately quench in the air around itself....granted, air is a slower quench than oil and won't get it as hard as an oil quench, but its a quench none the less. After that, it may well be harder than the tempered piece you originally stated with. If working with a properly annealed piece, I would not use carbide drills and would fairly strongly prefer HSS. HSS is obviously more than hard enough to drill annealed tool steel (that's the norm) and the problem with carbide is its so brittle. With that small a dia, it will snap with the tiniest off centre force. Even near microscopic chips in the cutting edge spell the beginning of the end- hss won't do that. I also agree that you should watch the speed. While the theoretically speed might be some crazy high number, you can't possibly feed fast enough to get there because you need to make a chip not dust or rub. Experiment a bit, but I think the problem is the part is not annealed and carbide drills can be trickier to use. putting a bit of oil on the end of the drill can't hurt. It reduces friction and localized heat build up
  14. I'm all ears if you have suggestions, but I can't think of anything. Saying its just a shaft rotating is easy enough, but do get it to do so to the tolerances required and take both axial and radial load is far from trivial. the double taper design is used so extensively because its just such a perfect solution. Without a cylindrical grinder, you can't just skim the shaft down as its hardened (or it should be). You could however stone out minor damage but you're not changing its overall form factor without a grinder. The real change though is what to put in there for a bearing if not the double taper? I don't know of another plain bearing arrangement that takes the thrust and radial force. No rolling element bearings are remotely going have a small enough profile and even if they did, a $500 P4 set of angular contact bearings may not still have the low runout as a watchmakers lathe (and of course wouldn't fit anyway). The only way I can see coming at is as I'm thinking of doing for the Schaublin: clean up the shaft and hand scrape a bearing to it. It will be accurate, if done in the sequence I envision, buts its a fair bit work. That I haven't thought of them hardly means there aren't other ways, but I haven't seen them yet and I've asking and questioning for awhile trying to come up with a plan for the sad Schuablin. The OP says he has other lathes so perhaps that is a possibility. This is also predicated on the objective being performance such s TIR that is good as typical watch lathe in good repair, which imo is a requirement.
  15. well if it works, that's something. i'm usually the charge in and make parts and fix it sort, but doing these bearing arrangements properly presents challenges. Many companies figured it out and 10's of thousands of lathes were made so its not exactly a moon launch, but still, the trick to it alludes me. I suspect its something like a series of very precise custom laps, male and female. A lap btw should never wear out - that is the properly charged variety vs the loose abrasive type. So its conceivable that this is how its done, making the laps would be very challenging, but they laps would be an investment used to make 100's of lathes. It would prohibitive to make a series of super precise male and female laps for one lathe. I'd to love get to meet and discuss this with someone who knew how the lathe makers went about this.
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