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Agree completely, which is why I think a discussion about whether it is a fake "Mercedes Benz" watch or not doesn't make any sense. @OP: it's a used watch, not being sold as a new Mercedes product, right? Then don't make a fuss with the seller on Ebay, because it really doesn't matter. Mercedes couldn't care less. If you like the watch and the price is right, buy it. If not, ignore.

Here you go Nicejoe just for you.

Unable to find any model info on this watch. Is it genuine or fake? Mercedes Benz is printed on the edge of casing, but nothing on the face. Thanks in advance BSW

Hi, firstly, it's worth mentioning that these are absolutely fantastic machines and well worth renovating. It takes a while to get your head around their operation, but this is simpler when the two halves of the casing have been removed to allow you to observe the workings. One of the most common faults is synchronisation, which is when the main cam which sits underneath the turntable which holds the jars moves such that it is rotated slightly compared to the turntable position. However, it does not sound like you have this fault. The obvious symptom with this fault is that the turntable tries to move when the basket is either in the low position, or rising/lowering. You describe the basket as spending literally no time in each jar, despite the time duration knobs being set to maximum. This makes me wonder if the "timer assembly" unit has failed. Can you have a look at it? It's an odd device which is a simple switch which has a lever that's motorised which very closes very slowly. The knurled screws which adjust the timing length push the lever on the timer assembly open by varying amounts, and the further they are screwed in, the longer it takes the timer unit to close the switch.

was just thinking the same.

Yes. You do not want any spreading. There are many reasons for why it can happen, such as unclean surfaces (especially if there is a minuscule residue film of oil). It effectively causes as similar effect to the oil drying out as it just continues to migrate away from the bearings. Ironically, over-oiling can also cause this effect too if it creates a pathway for the oil to run away to. I've seen that on cap jewels where the oil has spread across the entire chaton and jewel hole, only leaving a thin film everywhere.

I'd concur with @HSL making this specifically a Helvetia 81-24. In which case you might find this of interest: https://www.helvetiahistory.co.uk/movements

First I was thinking of a FHF then I changed my mind and will go with a The General Watch Co - Helvetia, Helvetia 81. If you can get a shot so one can see the keyless I think it will be easier to identify....

if it's a modern watch with removable balance jewels I find it's best to put the balance wheel back into the watch screw down its bridge remove the balance jewels. Then you can run it through the ultrasonic just fine. otherwise I just put the balance complete a separate basket when I run it through the cleaning machine so nothing else bumps into it.

Welcome to the forum, enjoy

the problem with servicing a watch like this for any of us is that it's a proprietary watch. This means the parts are only available from Tissot the technical specifications including those from eta who made the movement are only available to the chosen few which is typically not us. then while it did come from a ETA 2824 movement and can use some of its parts here are the modification parts which of course are not available. Plus the added complication of Synthetic escapement, New adjusting rate system of balance hairspring. These things of course make it a little bit more complicated and if you're just starting this most definitely should not be her watch the start on perhaps. The reason I have the word perhaps is sometimes painful lessons at the beginning help to make better decisions later on. Then when you're giving us your timing results make sure you wind the watch up about 50 turns the crown should do it. Let the watch stabilize for four minutes your lift angles 47° and because the synthetic escapement the escapement noises or library really quiet you going to need to push the amplification of your timing machine up to the Max or considerably higher than the normal watch. the individual is going to have a really tough time adjusting the etachron system in this watch as it seems to be missing? to get a better understanding what we're dealing with I have a link. If you look in the picture itself you going to see it has to timing screws on the balance wheel which technically requires special tools which of course none of us are ever going to see. Basically we have a free sprung balance wheel which is maintaining a very precise timekeeping unlike the watch in this discussion which is having a problem which is not a regulation problem as it is way way beyond the specifications of regulation. https://calibercorner.com/tissot-caliber-powermatic-80/ then out of curiosity how did you clean the watch and which oils are you using.

I've never had this model myself but have seen it a few times. Mid to late 1970's as I recall. The band maybe original but not sure. You have to lift the crystal and than the entire movement just comes out. When you reverse this process be sure to have the batter removed and the battery cover off.

Hi I found this operator/maintenance maunual might it be of some use to you L&R VariMatic & VariMatic III Operator Manual (1).pdf

I think the set lever screw goes on before barrel bridge dose, did you not get a datasheet for this? If too many missing parts, a scrap/spare movement hurts wallet less. ST96 has been made in India for sometime now, cheap and good for spare. Lighter fluid is available in supermarkets( you save on shipping) inexpensive and works real well. I keep like 10mml in small jar, cork keeps the fluid from vaporizing and leaving the jar. Good for final clean and rinse of complete balance& cock, fork and all gears/ pinions.

I have an old lighter that says Marlboro on it. (but non-smoker) That kind of thing makes sense. But a watch that says Mercedes Benz on it? The only impressions I get are those of cheap vanity and promotional marketing. When I'm in the mood to flash something, I'll just wear my Longines. But generally I like subtle statements.

Exactly. However, not all merchandise stuff is created equal. There on the official stores they sell watches for less than €100, and others for more than 1,500. One would hope that the latter are not your Miyota cheapie, LoL. Then different car makers take different choices about leveraging their brand in the watch world. For example, Maserati lends their name to pretty modest quartz watches retailing from Euro 150, but Lamborghini partners with a maison de haute horlogerie and their piece is like than 250K. The market offers a product for any wallet for anyone that enjoys owning a watch bearing a car name, but what about placing a watch name on a car?

I have a pair of Mercedes sunglasses, pair of Mercedes socks so a set of Mercedes false teeth fashionable.

Sure. My point is, that it is impossible for us to know who the manufacturer of that watch was. Assuming it is genuine Mercedes merchandising, even the people working in that department of Mercedes would struggle to find out, if it's not a current product. Even if they can tell you, it will be a company you have never heard of. The watch is worth the same, whether it is a fake or not.

The looks of it tells me its a bad one.

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.

Now I'm craving Coke and popcorn too. Interesting tradition here. Solve a mystery --> have Coke & popcorn. I'm cool with that.

Good everyday watch bought new c 1998. Seems to be offered on Ebay around $130-200 Roamer Power 8 men's Diameter of the watch is approx. 36 mm (excluding crown) x 41.4 mm. Originally came with webbing strap.

Looks like a chemical reaction of some sort, Autosol is only a mild abrasive so best to try it on a screw head. put s smidgin on the head and polish on a piece of card (Like Army Brasses) May need a few attempts to regain the shine. At this point you have nothing to loose and everything to gain. Should you need to replace the screws I have attached the tech sheet for this movement with the parts list. good luck. 376_Omega 613 NewLR.pdf

Hi Might I suggest a picture or two of the movement as It may help members with their diagnosis of your problem knowing the movement type. Thanks

Hi Bas Miyota movements although cheap they are quite robust and found in a lot of "Fashion" watches for that reason, from the small 2030/35 basic movements to the bigger and more featured ones depending on the price and fittings.

Welcome to the forum.

Hello NZ and welcome to the forum Bas Hope all is well down under.

Its either from the dial side or try and press where I have indicated or undo the screw that holds the setting lever located just above the battery and remove. It looks like the bruised screw head it has been removed before.

Have you tried to gently lift up the setting lever and at the same time pulled it outwards? If you dont't want to risk bending the setting lever jumper just take the screw of holding it and lift the setting lever up and the stem will come out.

Hair springs? Acetone and alcohol dont work very well. Naphtha does. Alternatively you could spray some carburetor cleaner in a small dish and dip.electric contact cleaner works as well. Just a brief dip ,no soaking. You will loosen the shellac that keeps the impulse jewel in place. I usually turn the assembly upside down and lay it on it's back in the dish.i agitate the fluid and set it to dry on a piece of paper. Works like a champ.

Good thing you posted this thread, saved the watch and can drink the coca cola too, don't forget the pop corn.

For those who saw Snatch, "Got anything to declare?" "Yeah, don't go to London." No offense to my friends in the UK. It's a line from a movie. For those who want a watchmaker's bench, "Pay whatever it costs and have done with it!" Now that it's done, I can say I have fond memories of dozens of hours in the garage. Really, I do.

Hi service manual attached for the 87 full of good stuff timex 87.pdf

Mo is good. I have never seen this one. Last watch I saw that set in the back was a keywind Elgin from the 1860s.

Today's watch is my grandads old Roamer which I acquired in 1986. It had been sat in the cupboard all this time but finally I have had it repaired and serviced. It required a new main spring. It keeps great time although I only wear it when sat in the office. I don't know its age but I do know that the movement is an MST 430.

Almost all complete. Everything dry fit, nothing fastened together. As mentioned above, I’ll have to re-contour the retaining walls. I’ll also finish the top so it somewhat matches the drawers. When it’s complete I’ll post the last picture. I’m happy with the semi-finished product. I certainly learned a lot. In case it went unread, look up a few posts about the free work surface.

First time for me placing my hands on a true watchmaker's lathe to repivot a central wheel (small seconds), under the guidance of my mentor master Lino. Work isn't complete and practically it never will be, because ase the pinion was picked from a box of spares that he accurately set aside. Lots of of technique details were passed to me, probably these are explained in most books, but the experience of learning first hand is priceless!

The other day I was flipping through some auction sites and stumbled across an offer to buy a Moeris pocket watch movement for about €19 (22$). Took a look at it and thought it would be a shame not to bid on it. The UNITAS 6498 is a quite nice movement and been cloned by many Chinese companies. Later on it became named ETA 6498. Most people start their practice career working on a ETA 6497 clone which is a cousin to this movement, they are slightly different in the layout. So here is a PDF as a small introduction to the UNITAS / ETA 6498 which shows my standard service approach to a movement like this and a small tutorial in how it ends up in a Chinese watch case. The PDF is optimized for use online to save server space. ETA 6498 Service Notes.pdf And here are some example shots from my service notes.

Almost all done. Just need to sort the cutters out to get the drawer filled up

Here is the stem you need. https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/274379429848?chn=ps

"Get it ticking" is usually a sign to a professional to turn the job down. But sometimes you do a favor... but it'll tick in any position, might time like hell but it runs. If money exchanged hands it should run.