Jump to content

SparkyLB

Member
  • Content Count

    118
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About SparkyLB

  • Rank
    WRT Addict

Recent Profile Visitors

351 profile views
  1. Thank you for all the great information, Spectre6000. If you haven't noticed, I'm figuring out things as I go along. I bought an inexpensive set of router bits from eBay and will use an Ogee for the retaining walls. For the form part closest to the front, I'll either freehand something or use a French curve, cut a template with MDF, and use a flush trim bit to duplicate it on both sides.
  2. Now that you mention it, yes, Tmuir. I wouldn't have if not for your suggestion. I have router a bit that does a semicircle, I'll set it to barely penetrate the top wood. Enough to do the job. I'm also wondering how I'm going to slope the fronts of the prison walls downwards. Maybe a french curve? Template? Not sure yet. I would love any other suggestions. I'm just starting out, and not familiar with the features of a high quality bench.
  3. So I've completed the flat portion of the work surface. Funds dictated no more hardwood, so pine it is. It's somewhat soft, but is very pleasant looking. I think I've decided upon a Roman Ogee router bit to create the "prison walls" for the sides and rear of the worktop. They'll fit into a rabbet and will be flush with the outside dimensions of the top.
  4. I'm glad I asked. After ordering a couple of Oris watches from India on eBay, I noticed the dials had been rubber-cemented to the mainplate, the lubrication looked like used motor oil, and there was no shortage of hair particles inside. Also the dials had been repainted, painstakingly by hand. It was quite an unsatisfactory attempt. I imagine that spending $2,200 for a "Rolex" movement would be a bad decision, who knows what defects lie in this used Rolex movement. Thank you all for the words of wisdom. Nucejoe, yes. The watch has been serviced over the years by Rolex 3 times. I very unwisely stopped investing in the watch by keeping it serviced. I now know better. JDM, I'll look into AWCI and see about getting it serviced by someone I can trust. I feel sort of stupid for even asking. I should know better, this particular movement in my watch may have not been the most reliable for keeping time, but there are two variables I neglected: first, in the hands of the right person it can be corrected. Second is the old adage, "the devil you know. . . " Thanks again, all.
  5. Thank you, JDM. I will look into that. It’s just been ingrained in my head that a Rolex should be serviced by them. I’m beginning to realize that members of our community might not be Rolex, but perhaps better. I appreciate your time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. My 1987 college graduation gift from my departed father is a 1987 stainless Oyster Perpetual "transition" model, model number 166000 which can be googled. They were only produced in the latter half of 1987. It has never kept good time, has probably been off by >20 sec/day, despite overhauls every 5 years (until about 10 years ago). This can be remedied. It is a Rolex, and is a beautiful watch, so I'd like to get it going again. I'm fairly confident that the oscillating weight's axle is broken. I can hear the oscillating weight wind the watch when I gently turn it and hold it to my ear. It was never this way before. I got into this hobby with the dream of overhauling my own Rolex. Where I am now; I think I will never attempt to overhaul this watch. I know keeping the original 3035 may make the watch more valuable, but price isn't a motivator--I'd never sell it. My choices are to send it to Rolex, or replace the movement. I can get a 3035 from eBay for $2,200 USD. I could also swap the existing 3035 for a 3135 movement. I'm quite comfortable removing and reinstalling hands, the stem, the movement, the dial; and I'm toying with the idea of replacing the 3035 with a 3135--so I could change the movement myself. I've searched, but can't find definitively if the 3035 to 3135 is just a one movement out/other movement in operation. The major differences are the balance bridge and power reserve, with the 3135 being better in both regards. The 3135 can be had on eBay for a few hundred dollars more. So to recap: 1. send to Rolex for service? 2. swap the 3035 for a 3135 myself for about $2,500? 3. buy a replacment 3035 for $2,200? Thank you all again for your help.
  7. I would appreciate if some experienced board members could lend some advice regarding a work surface. All I have in the "plans" is flat, with a border around the sides and back. I don't know if it should be light or dark, very solid or sacrificial (replaced easily), treated with a varnish, urethane, or just oil-rubbed. The rest of the bench so far is simply oil-rubbed. Please; any words from experience about the work surface or any other facet of the bench moving forward would be very helpful to this beginner.
  8. Just a piece of plywood on top. I can start filling my drawers, which will make the Mrs. very happy.
  9. Hard part is done. I could take this second side and use plywood until I build a proper working surface.
  10. Nothing left but to cover the drawers, finish and install pulls.
  11. Welcome! Love the moniker! I too am working on a "workspace." Nice to have you. Larry
  12. Good looking watch. Such a pretty dial. You did well. Congrats!
×
×
  • Create New...