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About SparkyLB

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  1. Thank you, Hamish. I might just do that. It does separate for me, too. I didn't attempt to shake it, didn't think it would have any effect. I'll try that, and might use it straight from the bottle if I don't buy a spatula.
  2. Yes, pinging parts is exasperating. I remember Marc Lovick saying in a video (and I paraphrase) "try to disassemble and reassemble a movement without using your fingers. Use your tweezers as much as possible, and get used to the correct pressure involved with picking up and holding onto parts." That's about where I am. I'm developing the habit of picking up, and hovering for a moment or two before lifting to confirm I have a good purchase on the part. I lost a crown wheel ring by picking it up from the outside, when it would have been more prudent to pick it up with the tweezers as close together as possible. I'm learning, and very much enjoying this. I'm confident there will come a day when dropping and losing parts will be the exception, and not the rule.
  3. Thank you for that information. I certainly appreciate the constructive criticism and words of encouragement. I don't clean screws or springs. I have to get into the habit of tightening up my "chain of custody" practices. I know how I dropped parts without knowing. I previously performed the practice of putting things down, blindly. That practice will now stop.
  4. I hope you'll be patient with me, as I simply saw a solution and went at it, a bit hurriedly. I'm at the very beginning of this hobby, and after disassembling about 5 movements (orphaned movements, bought inexpensively on eBay), I've had success with reassembling only one and getting it to tick. I disfigured the hairspring on one, and the other 3, lost parts to the floor. So on this FHF 96 ST movement, I disassembled with care, cleaned all parts with naptha and rinsed in isopropyl alcohol; only to find upon reassembly I lost another part. Despite my best attempts and using the standard compartmentalized container with plastic bell cover--the setting lever screw had gone missing. I took a screw from a similar movement (I bought 10 orphaned movements from eBay a couple of months ago as "parts only") with the intent of taking apart and putting back together. But the head was quite long, and the threaded portion not long enough. As a result, the end sat flush with the main plate, and didn't reach the setting lever. After confirmation it was the correct thread pitch and diameter for the setting lever, I placed it in a chuck with the intention of removing some shoulder from the screwhead's bottom, so it could sit proud enough to engage the setting lever. I used my lathe for the first time, and using a graver for the first time, I sloppily cut the screw. You can see I unintentionally removed some threads close to the botom of the screwhead, but it wasn't a critical area, and there were enough threads to fully engage the setting lever. The screw now sat proud enough of the main plate, to work. I have a lot of practice ahead. I'm sure my work will improve. This was my very first project, and although it's a bit lacking in quality, from a utilitarian point of view; it worked, and will get the watch ticking.
  5. 2ml. Thank you. I'll do that. I must get better at solving my own problems. Before I do a Google Image search, I envision a 1mm square mounted on a very fine strand of wire. I should have thought of that.
  6. You misread, my friend. I have no issue with the fine oils. I used a screwdriver and job done. My issue is with the blue grease. If a screwdriver is inserted into the bottle it comes out with a coating of grease that's nearly impossible to remove by any means I can think of. This is what I'm asking the forum for help with.
  7. I just got some 9010, D5, and 9501 grease. I've used a screwdriver to wick oil from the first two into my oil cups. My problem seems to be getting the 9501 out of the bottle and into the oil cup without wasting much of this expensive synthetic grease. The seller said it would be coming in a syringe. Well, it came in the Moebius bottle. Quite troublesome. What method do you use? I've been breaking a toothpick in half, sanding to make absolutely certain no wood gets into the grease, and try to get a drop onto the end. I then repeatedly softly strike the loaded pick right into the bottom of the cup, seems the longer I go at it (like a mortar and pestle) the grease seems to eventually wick away from the toothpick, but there seems to be at least half of what gets deposited in the cup left on the pick. There has to be a better way, I'm just ignorant of what that is.
  8. Thank you all. I will heed the advice and pick up a new, complete pallet fork. It's somewhat reassuring to hear from those more experienced that I'm "skipping steps." I was hoping for that kind of response rather than one that suggests that this is an easy task. It's an FHF 96N calibre. And yes, the hairspring stud pin escaped me. That is far smaller! Thank you all.
  9. This is my first endeavor after successfully disassembling, cleaning and lubricating, and putting back together a swiss movement. No date or complications, just a center seconds hand. I did not note the movement number underneath the balance. It was a manual-wind orphaned movement. On my second movement, an orphaned one picked up on eBay for practice, I made a beginner mistake and tightened the pallet bridge onto a pivot that was not in the jewel hole. I've broken the top pivot. I have about 6 other orphaned movements bought "for parts" and I've used a staking set to remove the damaged arbor, and took a pallet arbor from a different pallet with nearly the same dimensions. I am having one devil of a time completing this task putting a replacement arbor into the now arbor-less pallet. I've been at it for days, and taking a lot more time thinking than working. So far I've isolated the "new" pallet arbor between two stakes in my staking set, with a flat, holed stake on bottom, and a rounded holed stake above. If there's any part of a mechanical watch movement that's smaller than a pallet arbor, I don't know what it is! I'm unsure on how to proceed. I thought I might surround the bottom portion into the stake with Rodico to stabilize it as I attempt to place the pallet. This is certainly a challenge in manual dexterity for me. My plans are after the pallet is slid onto the new arbor, to tap a few times with the rounded stake in the hopes it peens the arbor just enough to fill to create a friction fit. Short of that, I might use a slightly oversized flat holed stake from the top, and peen the pallet onto the arbor to the same effect. Those who might have performed this task, is there a certain set of steps, or advice for a beginner such as myself?
  10. My name is Larry and I'm from sunny Florida. It's paradise to most, but oppressively hot for me! I look forward to learning a lot from anyone kind enough to share their knowledge.
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