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I recently brought a genuine 2824 movement. Cleaned and serviced myself, and timed on the time graph. I think I did a good job? I'm open to advice and critique. The movement came with a rado rotor, so i thought i look for a rado dial. To my luck? I found one to fit the 2824/2. I brought a genuine Rado dial from a private seller on ebay, which is a lovely dial. I noticed the original hour wheel it came with was a H2. When the dial was fitted? The hour wheel barely poked out of the dial. I had to purchase another HR wheel from a seller in Switzerland, H4 size. That's was perfect. Here some pics of the movement and the results from the time graph.

I brought a clone Unitas 6497 for my watch repair course. Whilst learning the autonomy of this movement? I really hated those blue laquer screws. So I decided to file off the laquer with a diamond filer. I purchased loads of diamond paste grit, which came in a syringe. Peg wood and pin vice was all that was needed. God knows how many hours and days it took me? But here's the result. The pic was before polishing.

Yes technically a right you can't send it in especially after I had a conversation with somebody who understands servicing Rolex watches. If you look at the image I attached up above it shows the two little nuts for adjusting the balance end shake. Then if you read the original posting after servicing everything bad happened that's because the regulating nut's as Rolex calls them relocated tight giving zero adjustments which is why the lower jewel assembly had its issues. So obviously it's not a warranty issue or a manufacturing defect. It's what happens if you don't have a service manual to understand what those little nuts were for.

Sorry I don't know the answer to your question but allow me to remind that the proper section for it is "watch repair help and advice". Before someone criticizes my observation as coming from the other side of a "language barrer", is worth to remind that the reason is not just to keep an organized forum, but that you will have more chances of answers, as not everybody browses or checks all sections of this forum, and that is the only one where answer can be rated and even flagged as correct.

I have to confess I just picked up this blue dialed specimen. It has one minor problem (apart from being a few pennies over budget), although it is not a ladies size, it is a nurses fob watch. The dial was irresistible, and I almost certainly have a non fob watch donor Ingersol case it will drop right in to.

So, I'm embarrassed to say but i noticed a small piece of peg wood in the teeth of the mainspring barrel. Removed it and now the watch doesn't stop in chono mode. I learned a lot from you guys though. Thanks again.

Was repairing a bulova diver from the 60ies I think and the rotor was loose and the watch wouldn’t run. I decided to disassemble it a bit. I removed the second plate and when I flipped it over I found that there were two screws loose on a sub-plate the pushes up on the arbor / pivot that the rotor center hole slides over. Once I tightened the two screws the arbor pushed up. I reassembled the watch and it worked perfectly. Tomorrow I clean and polish the case as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Sweet! Not sure how you did this. Did you place the diamond paste on the head of the screw and then polished it with peg wood?

Hi you have done a grand job with that, should look nice cased up well done

Hi well done all the elbow grease looks as though it was worthwhile

I will try some local shops and see what they think and go from there thanks for all the help.

Thank you sir!

Hi This is just the tech sheet giving part no etc may be helpfull will try to find a lubrication chart for you. cheers 925_ETA 2770, 2772, 2782.pdf

I'm glad that I continued reading this thread. I almost bought a stereo microscope for general disassembly And reassembly work. So then can you give me more information on your clip on magnifiers? I now use a loupe but would rater have stereo and a bigger field of view. Thanks for saving me some big bucks..

Hi Simon, welcome.

Hi Yankeedog whilst poking about on my workshop computer I came across these PDF,s which you might find interesting regarding the re Birth of the Ingram. A little light reading while it relaxes in it bath. Keep us posted on the progress, they are quite commonly used along with the Ansonia I like them they are no nonsense movements. Cheers American Clock Striking Levers.pdf American mainspring sizes.pdf

Welcome aboard!

Hi and welcome to the forum Simon , the guys are always happy and ready to help.

You think O.N. Atelier prices are excessive? I'd say they are fairly normal Inspection (See below) £35 Movement Service (Manual Wind) From £159 Movement Service (Automatic) From £179 Movement Service (Quartz) From £129 Movement Service Chronograph Manual (e.g. Valjoux 7733) From £249 Movement Service Chronograph Automatic (e.g. Valjoux 7750) From £295 Compare to watchguy.co.uk: inspection charge £ 30 manual wind, with or without date £ 150 Manual wind, not shock protected £ 160 automatic, with or without date £ 170 complex automatic with or without date, e.g. Rolex, Omega Co-Axial, etc. £ 200 manual wind chronograph with or without date, with hour recorder £ 270 automatic chronograph with or without date £ 300 That even before looking at the official service center prices.

Yes it's really important that discussions occur where there supposed to. As pointed out above not everyone looks at all the discussions I typically only look at watch repair. Unless it's a really new discussion and it's on the right-hand side and I see it there. Then the reason for timing watches in multiple positions is it's used for diagnostic purposes. Then if your pocket watch is a vast pocket watch your right you can keep it up right but if it's in your pocket and you should ever sit down then it's going to be resting on the balance pivots or at an angle. Also important when using the timing machine that you should be timing at equivalent of fully wound up but you need to let it run about 30 minutes. Then at 24 hours later as things can change dramatically in 24 hours. Then the reason I asked which timing machine is on multiple of occasions we've been led down the rabbit hole because somebody's using a phone app or some other device that has a pickup that totally sucks. Can't do proper diagnosis with faulty equipment. So it looks like the 1500 visually looks identical to the 1000. So it would be really nice to have a picture of the timing machine with this watch so we can see the graphical display just because we like to look at pictures. We've had discussions elsewhere the machines can have rollover errors which might not be the right term where the graphical display will look perfect but the numerical display does not agree with the graphical display. 9.9 is indicating the machine is reached the maximum beat error which isn't good. Amplitude will magnify that but it has to be below 200° Then considerably below that so visually what does the amplitude look like? Then if the amplitude was low enough to make the beat error look this bad it probably wouldn't be keeping time either. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Unitas_235

Good point...

Hi Regarding the wire system used in these clocks have alook for David La Bounty on the net he gives very good graphics on how they work and how they are set up I have the drawings on my other machine let me know if toyu want them Cheers

From my point of view there are many reasons possible. Here a picture of that spring, which is driven by the setting lever and slightly touching the balance. Engagement to lever could have slipped out, spring broken, spring bent, screw loosened ... I think you have to strip down the movement at least half the way to find out whats going on. So a complete service would make sense.

I suggest you go to the B H I site and click on Find a Repairer and download the watch repairers list. Find one nearest to you. These are reputable people who can handle all types of repairs. Make sure the repairs are carried out on their premises and that you get a guarantee if the watch has a complete overhaul, it should be 1 year. Ask for an estimate. Here is the B H I link. https://bhi.co.uk/

Did you take it apart? Be careful with the striking parts make sure you do not bend any of the wires. This is the best cleaner to use.

Hi - I might have already done this. But I just joined. Mostly to look at what is going on. I do have a question that I will post soon. -George

I'll get those close ups in the morning. thanks for the help so far. I did have the watch fully wound

to properly demag., take the balance (with the hair spring) out and demag. it seperatly. sometimes you can tell if it is by passing a small compas over it.

Hi JDM, thank you for sharing your most uninteresting walkthroughs. I am envious of your skill to produce such professionally written documents but moreover your skill in working with seiko. No offence, but personally I don’t like seiko, maybe because they are not old enough. However, I do have an inherited seiko waiting to be repaired, so who knows I might just come to love it when (or if) I get it running again [emoji6] Regards Deggsie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If it fixes the problem 100% why should it matter if the watch is really expensive? I'm wondering if you have a defective watch and maybe you should send it back to Rolex for warranty repair? Because the lower assembly shouldn't fall out and it should go back in and stay in place. Then they do make tools for closing holes in a more uniform fashion then recommended above I'm attaching an image. But you want to be careful here and not to get carried away and smash the heck out of the hole otherwise you're going to need a new plate. It's probably a dyslexia thing on my part but I think I'm reading this backwards from the way I usually think about it? I'm attaching an image out of the Seitz manual showing a jewel but the same principle applies. Looking at my Kif book unfortunately it's not a PDF it shows the settings being pushed in the same as the jewel is being pushed.. Then from the Rolex Service manual side view of the balance assembly. It is not a lot of thickness to the plate the setting needs to be centered for maximum strength. The adjustment of end shake is by the brass nuts on the other side. The alignment of the balance wheel with the pallet fork in all of this is extremely close tolerances. Rolex gets really obsessed with end shake adjustments so there's not a lot of play here.

The watch is a Mumbay special as the funny lettering on the dial shows. Don't bother too much trying to make sense of how parts should fit together because the sellers puts together things just to ship it out. If the crystal is not the correct size for the case you will need another one. The flat gasket below it may not even be needed, also there are L crystal gaskets which raises the crystal if needed. It's all about measuring to fix it but I would suggest that you look for a more genuine Seiko for a next purchase.

You will need two mainspring clamps. You put the clamps over the mainsprings, with the key you move the click spring away from the ratchet and slowly unwind the springs, when the springs unwind they are trapped in the clamps. Only then can you take the movement apart. Never try to take the movement apart with out the clamps, you will have a nightmare trying to put it back together. You should be able to buy the clamps from any good clock pats suppliers. Just make sure you get the right size as I think there's about 3 sizes.

I forget, some people still use flip phones, lol

If you take just the balance out and gently nudge the pallet back and forth, you should see it flick itself quickly once you pass the lock up position of the pallet jewels. If it does this, it is a good sign that the gear train is ok. If it slowly drifts or you have to nudge it all the way to the next lockup, something is wrong in the train.

Did you oil the pallet jewels? Is it locked up or just wont run. Do you see the fork swing as you make balance oscilate. Start elemination( removal of parts) from balance. Make sure canon pinion is not rubbing on the main plate.

Hi, did you try turning the screw in the opposite direction. Some watches have that particular screw left threaded to avoid loosening when winding.

Outstanding, with a luscious gold dial. Can't go wrong with either a two tone oyster or jubilee bracelet.

Well guys, I took the risk with the air technique, but also bore in mind Marc's guidance, so made sure I was as delicate as possible... Crystal came out with no damage and I was able to fully reassemble the watch. Thank you to everyone that took the time to give advice, very much appreciated. One last thing, on the watch the second hand is the lower sub-dial, the large second hand is a chronograph. This watch was repaired a number of years ago and when it was returned the chronograph hand was at the 3rd increment, instead of at 12. When I reassembled the watch today I took care to place all hands pointing towards 12. I started the chronograph and it jumped back to the 3rd increment and stopped moving. Starting it again it works as normal, but again from the 3rd increment. Reseting the chronograph the hand returns back to the third increment, like in the attached photo. Any idea what may be causing this?

Nice!

I don't usually use my microscope in general disassembly or reassembly; for that I use a clip on magnifier attached to my glasses that has a lens for each eye so I retain stereo vision. The microscope comes into its own for inspection, oiling, and hairspring work, where the higher magnification really makes a difference. It's also great for detailed cleaning and restoration on dials partly because of the magnification but also peering down a microscope cuts out all of the peripheral distractions so your total focus is on the job in hand. I do use a conventional loupe as well but that tends to be for inspection only as I find working without the ability to properly judge distance is less than ideal. Also, I work at desk height rather than bench height (something that I have to sort out as it's not so good for my back) which means that I am above the work, where the screw drivers need to be, so higher magnification loupes (with correspondingly closer working distances) are less than practical. As and when I eventually get a bench sorted out loupes may become a more viable proposition. What I have in mind is to have the working surface more or less at shoulder height when I am sitting upright. This would place the work in front of my eyes not below so there would be no competition for space with tools.

I clean all my balances in the ultrasonic and have had no problems, however I have learnt to be a bit more careful with the Pallets as the cleaning solution can get a bit warm if used for an extended time period ( I personally can use it quite a lot in a one session) and sometimes Pallet jewels can come loose due to the shellac/ adhesive softening because of the increase in temperature within the cleaning solution... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

You people!! Just when I think I have all I need! This time last week I thought a eye glass was fine now I want a microscope as well!

I bought this watch around 1968. I think it cost a couple of weeks of my wages as an apprentice. It is an Edox Automatic Kingstar Had it serviced a couple of years ago and it keeps good time. Can be wound when it has not been worn for a while, so no wiggling it around is required to get it going. On the bottom of the dial is has the writing T SWISS MADE T can anyone tell me if the T is of any significance? I have this watch on today as I have been away for a couple of days and I was only taking one watch. I have various bracelets and straps but this one has a Speidel expanding bracelet. It is always comfortable. This used to belong to my Dad, he used to use those scissor action expanders. He was always complaining that they caught the hair on his arm, until he bought this one and he never had reason to complain again. My other watches will appear as I wear them, should not take long, I only have 4 left to show you. Nigel I just had a look at this post and the picture is not all in view, can anyone tell me why? The pic is less than 1mb Nigel