Jump to content

Pallet fork lubrication: pallets and pivots.


Recommended Posts

I have been taught that one should not lubricate the pallet arbor jewels.  I have a watch in which the pallet arbor jewels have endstones.  In that case should I lubricate the endstones the way one should, say, the balance staff endstones?  Or should I not?  Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Never oil the pallet pivots. If you do it causes drag, if you watch the action of the pallets they only move from side to side. A very tiny drop on the faces of the pallet stones is all that is needed. Some repairers prefer to just oil a few of the escape wheel teeth and by the rotation of the wheel; this will automatically oil the pallet stone faces. You must always use oil that is recommended for watch escapements.    

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, oldhippy said:

Never oil the pallet pivots. If you do it causes drag, if you watch the action of the pallets they only move from side to side. A very tiny drop on the faces of the pallet stones is all that is needed. Some repairers prefer to just oil a few of the escape wheel teeth and by the rotation of the wheel; this will automatically oil the pallet stone faces. You must always use oil that is recommended for watch escapements.    

How about oiling just the pivot-endstone interface? 

Isn,t this D skinner's question?

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

How about oiling just the pivot-endstone interface? 

I think that comes under pallet pivots. Which I mentioned. Oil on the inside of a endstone will seep down to the pivot. Gravity plays a big part it is bound to run down. 

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

32 minutes ago, DouglasSkinner said:

Thanks, guys!  I don't oil the pallet pivots but having endstones threw me.  I'm not going to oil them (or the hole jewels either).

Thanks to you I learned,  have never face endstones on fork arbor, didn,t know. 

Best wishes

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, guys!  I don't oil the pallet pivots but having endstones threw me.  I'm not going to oil them (or the hole jewels either).
Just remember the endstones are to reduce friction. In pivots without them the shoulders rub the face of the jewel, and even if the shoulder surface is reduced to the max the surface is still way more than a rounded pivot end. Better quality pieces will have convex jewels to reduce the surface touching, best quality goes all the way to end stones.

They are rarely encountered on forks though so can understand the confusion.
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve been following Mark’s course and he tells us that the oil should cover 30% of the end stone – that’s what I have been doing.
I have a book by Mark W. Wiles who states that the oil should be 50%-70%

What do you think?

152.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

His description isn't really clear. The oiled area should be around 60% of the surface when the jewels are assembled together.

With most Incablocs you'll need to oil the cap, then set the chaton on top. It's hard to predict what the end result will be without just doing it a bunch of times and getting a feel for what the initial oil spot will become once in contact with the hole jewel. There's no practical way of adding oil once assembled as the chimney is in the way (A Bergeon 1A auto oiler can do it*). No way to remove excess of course.

With Kif or old non-shock settings, assemble the jewels, oil the sink in the hole jewel, then insert a fine pin to carry the oil through to the cap. These are more forgiving as you can start small and add until it looks right.

*There's a risk with the auto oiler that some oil may touch the chimney and could possibly lead to oil wicking out of the jewel. It's also hard to be sure the tip is really clean. I got one in school but haven't used it in 20 years.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I found a BHI document online. It all depends whether the endstone has been treated with Epilame or not.
If treated, when assembled it should cover 2/3 of the diameter and if not treated it should cover ½ of the diameter when assembled.

The other two methods are as nickelsilver described, a fine pin and the 1A auto oiler.

 

 

BHI_oiling.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I found a BHI document online. It all depends whether the endstone has been treated with Epilame or not.
If treated, when assembled it should cover 2/3 of the diameter and if not treated it should cover ½ of the diameter when assembled.

The other two methods are as nickelsilver described, a fine pin and the 1A auto oiler.

 

 

BHI_oiling.jpg.4594a3359ac3f8e12622a726a988bd2e.jpg
Yep. I epilame them but didn't mention it as most folks don't. The end result is all that matters.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi all

 

Just finished service of a EB8800. This is the most basic version of it, with only one jewel in the hairspring pivots.

 

I would usually not lubrificate the pallet fork pivots (and did not on this one) given there is no friction, but since this one is metal on metal, should apply a bit of 9010 to the pivot ends of the pallet fork?

 

Many thanksb0c980a9f2e8a4cc43eeae50f3666859.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes you should. Metal against metal is not good and will create wear. Only the tiniest amount is needed other wise it will create drag. So small the amount you can hardly notice it. A good tip also is oil just a few teeth of the escape wheel and not the pallet pins, the rotation of the wheel and action of the pallets will distribute the oil.   

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

Yes you should. Metal against metal is not good and will create wear. Only the tiniest amount is needed other wise it will create drag. So small the amount you can hardly notice it. A good tip also is oil just a few teeth of the escape wheel and not the pallet pins, the rotation of the wheel and action of the pallets will distribute the oil.   

Plus you would be surprised,  ampltiude flies as you lube escape teeth. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

I've been using  Moebius 9415 to oil the pallet stone. I usually oils the exit pallet impulse face with the amount like you drop a little bubble on it.

I really don't know how much amount I should applied and is there any sign to tell whether I'm overoil or underoil.

I have one strange case though, the movement right after assembly has 260~270 amplitude but drop to 230 after 10 minus or so. Is this relevent to the pallet stone oiling?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi there , have a look at this video of servicing a mechanical watch at the end the pallet stones are lubricated through the inspection hole , this method always works for me and it should increase amplitude .This method is called dynamic lubrication , if your amplitude has dropped somewhat and not improved after a while, say an hour then maybe take out the escapement and clean and start again .This is a hotly debated topic and there are many different answers .But on saying that you are using the correct lubricant, but don't apply too much and if you can, place the 9415 along the angled surfaces of the pallet stones ,this will increase your amplitude . Only a small amount ever so gently ..........Hope this help

You may have to file down an oiler to a fine needle shape ,or purchase an escapement oiler as an ordinary oiler is to big .

Edited by Graziano
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Graziano said:

Hi there , have a look at this video of servicing a mechanical watch at the end the pallet stones are lubricated through the inspection hole , this method always works for me and it should increase amplitude .This method is called dynamic lubrication , if your amplitude has dropped somewhat and not improved after a while, say an hour then maybe take out the escapement and clean and start again .This is a hotly debated topic and there are many different answers .But on saying that you are using the correct lubricant, but don't apply too much and if you can, place the 9415 along the angled surfaces of the pallet stones ,this will increase your amplitude . Only a small amount ever so gently ..........Hope this help

 

I do aware of such method. But I think this method would not be available since I only got a 20x magnifier and I don't think I can actually have a clear visual experience and a percise phenomenology about how close the oiler to the escapwheel. This would be a challenge to me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, EatPeach said:

I do aware of such method. But I think this method would not be available since I only got a 20x magnifier and I don't think I can actually have a clear visual experience and a percise phenomenology about how close the oiler to the escapwheel. This would be a challenge to me.

Exactly. That is mostly a show off, it's unapplicable in most cases and has not demonstrated advantages. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Omega wants nothing more than a wedge when teeth slide along impulse face, but Rolex wants you to really glob it on there. AWCI deems oil on top and in the gaps between escape teeth unacceptable. The GS I observed under a microscope have whole heaps of it all over the escape wheel. My conclusion is, do whatever you want as long as relevant parts are clean and properly treated with epilame and oils are kept away from the body of the pallet fork.

Edited by CaptCalvin
Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, jdm said:

Exactly. That is mostly a show off, it's unapplicable in most cases and has not demonstrated advantages. 

With all due respect  I must be a show off because that's the only way I will lubricate the escapement with or without epilame. I even get amongst it all from the balance side on a running movement after servicing and apply lubrication to pallets with 10x loupe .So It works for me, as I posted this is a well debated topic and I say each to their own The only thing I use a microscope for is jewel damage inspection  

Edited by Graziano
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, EatPeach said:

I do aware of such method. But I think this method would not be available since I only got a 20x magnifier and I don't think I can actually have a clear visual experience and a percise phenomenology about how close the oiler to the escapwheel. This would be a challenge to me.

If this method is unsuitable for you then may I suggest you lubricate the pallet folk by removing the balance complete then adding a bit of power to the watch and apply a little bit of 9415  directly onto the escape wheel locking point say on every third tooth ,only the smallest amount whilst moving the pallet folk back and forth. This will also work .as  I said in my previous post the amplitude should increase . Hope this helps

Edited by Graziano
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
    • Back home...printing now.  Will report results
    • Oh well, if Master @nickelsilver says it's the way to go, then it is the way to go! I stand corrected! 🫡 Are there any other places where you're supposed to remove the epilame from the contact point of rubbing? I don't think so! Thanks for the effort @Neverenoughwatches, much appreciated! 🙂👍
×
×
  • Create New...