Jump to content

CaptCalvin

Member
  • Content Count

    104
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by CaptCalvin

  1. Am I missing something? I've never heard of the term "automatic" used in association with any watch that takes a battery... And to answer OPs question, I have ran my watches through the demagnetiser running without any apparent ill effect. But you might want to if you can to stay on the safe side
  2. Uhhhhhhh... I'm assuming this is a brain fart... haha
  3. You can try annealing the click spring first by burning it red hot and letting it air cool then you can bend out to any shape you want. Make sure you take it off the flame as soon as it starts glowing otherwise you risk turning the whole thing into ash. Harden it again by making glow red hot and then quenching it in water to harden it again. Then temper it to take the brittleness out by heating and air cooling at some temperature. What this temp is I don't know but definitely not to the point where it glows red hot again otherwise you would just be annealing it again. Maybe someone more knowledgeable about heat treatment can chime in. Or maybe you don't even need to bother with hardening and tempering? Since the original spring appears to be copper maybe tensile strength isnt a priority?
  4. Seiko's are just a bit more sensitive to cleanliness and lubrication. My recent 6r15 I serviced I made sure absolutely spotless under a microscope passed this test and gave me around 310 amplitude when some people settle with 240-250 with this particular movement. You don't need to give Seikos with 250 amplitude a free pass like so many people seem to do. They are absolutely capable of going well close to 300.
  5. Looks pretty normal to me. Should not expect any less. The true test is to mount the click and ratchet wheel and give it a few clicks of wind. What you want to see is the escape wheel turn backwards after the mainspring fully unwinds or even spin back and forth a few times.
  6. This look a lot like a seiko 7s movement. If it operates like one then the lever to press down for stem release is only presented when the stem is pressed all the way in.
  7. Pretty sure the opposite is true, having to poise if the roller table is moved.
  8. It's a sign that your beat error is amplitude dependent. Is the hairspring concentric? Centered in the Regulator pins? How wide is the pin gap? What's the beat error with the movement in a position that has the pallet fork pointing straight down compared with horizontal?
  9. Not much to say really. It's a symptom of excessive amplitude, the balance wheel swinging so wide it makes a complete revolution and the impulse jewel crashes into the opposite fork horn and bouncing back. This will cause the watch to periodically gain considerably. Use a weaker mainspring and/or heavier oil to remedy. Trace on timing machine would look something similar to this:
  10. Have you ruled out knocking? What does the trace look like on the timing machine? Amplitude?
  11. If all you lost was the cap jewel and still have the chaton and hole jewel it's not the end of the world. A generic cap jewel with right diameter and thickness would work. Chances are you would find one that fits from assorted cap jewel sets if you don't already have scrap movements lying around that may have fitting cap jewels. You can start pulling your hair out if you lose the chaton/hole jewel though so definately be a lot more careful with those.
  12. Just replaced the battery in my caliper. Here are the measurements: OD: 6.33mm ID: 2.86mm Thickness: 0.04mm
  13. https://crona-parts.ru/catalog/655/51680/ Found some here. Cant help you with measurements at the moment because the batteries in my calipers are drained. Anything large enough to cover the center portion of the day wheel without peaking out the window and does not exceed thickness of about 0.2mm I think would do.
  14. There. I knew I've seen it in a tech doc somewhere. It's listed as the "indicator distance piece." It's not in the current version on the ETA website though.
  15. That's odd, all the ones with day function I have come across, 3 from Bulova, 2 from Victorinox, and 3 from Mido all have the dial washer.
  16. From my experience yes you need it. I have neglected to put it in in the past thinking it was omit-able because it was so thin and flat. Apparently that extra bit of clearance is all that's needed for my day wheel to become dislodged and jam up in short order. I can't find any place where you would get one and the service manual don't even include it. But I guess you can use any generic washer that fits over the hour wheel arbor but not wide enough to peek out the day window and thickness of about a piece of A3 paper.
  17. Yes. Just friction. Gross adjustments using lever. Fine adjustments using screw. I would get it a lot tighter than 20 seconds before using the screw however. Using the lever to regulate with precision of +/- 5 isnt hard at all. It's when you start going for tighter than that is when the screw comes in handy.
  18. The idea is they would center the screw and then use the lever to get it within a few seconds of +/- 0 and then sort out the rest of those seconds with the fine adjustment screw. It's really difficult to regulate with precision of down to the second with just the lever so the fine adjustment is there to help with that.
  19. Kinda. Don't go turning at the brass element if you don't know what you're doing. You can kink the hairspring if u turned it too far. Anyways I don't know why it took this many long winded replies but, here you go. The answer is: yes.
  20. Those diagrams are of non-capped jewels, which are not to be used for balance wheel pivots. Here is a diagram of what we are talking about: The dome is there to keep the oil in the center with capillary action when brought to contact with end stone. There should not be any shoulders on balance pivots, but a gradual slope. Only surfaces acting as bearing surfaces are around the tip of the pivots. Otherwise there would be too much friction.
  21. It's a basic 3 jar cleaning speed with manual speed/direction control and heater. Nothing more to it than that. I saw Mark's video about cleaning watches and he said 15 minutes for each process in the cycle so that's what I went with. Solution was brand new.
  22. I'm spinning it as slow as my Zenith Safeway would allow. Not near enough as far as I'm aware to make any bubbles. What I half suspected at first as well, but as I said in the first post I tried again after scrapping off the oxide layer, but checked right after the 1st jar with the L&R extra fine and it was the same observation. Another thing, I just checked the rotor under the microscope because that looked especially ugly, and have determined that the plating is coming off... What gives? Is the extra fine supposed to be this intense? Before anyone asks, no I have not run it through any ultrasonic, specifically because I heard it might affect plating.
  23. This is my first time using a cleaning machine with L&R extra fine cleaning solution and #3 rinse. I put the parts through each jar and dryer for 15 minutes. When I took the parts out I was disappointed to see that a couple of the parts have varying degrees of discoloration, almost as if they'd been blued. Whats more odd is that the affected parts include both steel and brass parts, while other parts whether brass or steel were left completely intact. I thought just maybe I left it cooking in the dryer for too long but my gut feeling was telling me otherwise, so I scrape off what discoloration I could and put them through the process again. Based on said gut feeling I interrupted the process right after the 1st jar and what do you know, discoloration. What went wrong? Is the extra fine any good? Is there something wrong? Should I be worried? Can I just assemble as is?
  24. Hmmm it is true that I remember these taking more force to pop open. For the record I dont recommend messing with these barrels. But if NH35 is all you have and you want to start tinkering it's not the worst idea to start on these being as inexpensive as they are. I myself started on NH35s. I find them relatively sensitive to proper lubrication as well so it really conditioned me to be precise with oil application.
×
×
  • Create New...