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CaptCalvin

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Everything posted by CaptCalvin

  1. It's not even possible without leaving a pocket of air in there. Oil is incompressible. Unless you leave a pocket of air in there you ain't pulling out or pushing in the crown. Any pushers would be inoperable as well.
  2. Can you see the missing piece of lume floating around somewhere on the dial?
  3. I have seen similar results once when I had forgotten to tighten the stud screw. But perhaps more likely cause would be bent balance pivot, which produced the ame kind of results on another occasion.
  4. Technically tissot has lemania beat in "industrialized" chronograph movement. C01.211 is basically the 5100 but takes the use of plastic even further by replacing the escapment with plastic. The longines is pretty. Job very well done on that minute counter jumper spring.
  5. Besides the obvious lack of amplitude, I think an important thing to check is to see if stud is loose in stud carrier. Other things to look out for are loose index pin and boot, index, harispring either at collet or stud end, shock assemblies, as well as condition of the pivots.
  6. Well it should be simple enough to get it to 0~+5 on the wrist. You sync the time to a reference and wear the watch for something like a week. Then you calculate average seconds gained/lost per day for the period you wore it. If the watch gained/lost you subtract/add the average gained/lost per day from whatever the timegraph displays and that would be your target rate to regulate to. For example I wear the watch and at the end of the week I find that it had gained 35 seconds. I divide 35 by 7 and get 5 which means it gained on average 5 seconds a day. I wind it up fully and put it on the timegraph dial down and it reads +2. I subtract 5 from 2 which gets me -3. Now I regulate it so that it reads -3 dial down on timegraph and see where that gets me. Unless your wearing habits change significantly from week to week too much consideration need not be placed on wearing habits because all that would already be factored in.
  7. Wait you mentioned that the rate suddenly increased? How are we forgetting the most obvious approach to this problem? Try hitting it with the demagnetizer!
  8. Perhaps closing the regulator index gap would help with the isochronism error.
  9. That's not a lever and got nothing to do with removing the stem. For removal of the stem you poke into the hole that the tiny arrow points to with stem pushed all the way in.
  10. It did. But the green Depression glass as well as pattern didnt allow me to observe the clarity of the liquids so I switched them out for clear semi-square jars. They are still square but with corners significantly rounded compared to the originals.
  11. Didnt come with what I assume to be 1930s zenith cleaning machine I got off ebay. Should I put some in myself?
  12. What are the mesh nets I see inside the jars on the modern cleaning machines? What do they do?.
  13. Sounds to me the most likely issue is that the adhesive used to attach spring to stud isn't up to snuff. After removing the last balance, the one you mentioned the hairspring spontaneously deforming, do you still observe the hairspring itself to be out of sorts? Or is it more or less original shape? And if the hairspring is attached at the collet with adhesive as per seiko, chances are it would be with the same adhesive. The adhesive at the stud can be replaced with shellac easily enough, but the procedure isn't so manageable at the collet.
  14. Hmmm why would there be two of them and when the middle hole in that platter works just fine for that
  15. But the cylinders are only one size, and barrels come in many sizes.
  16. Tried it on a tongji barrel with closest matching winding barrel and handle. Did the job. No complaints so far other than the factory oil.
  17. Actually tissot does like to use those red gaskets to hold the caseback in much the same way as most crystals are held in place: not with a lip, but with only friction. You might want to consider replacing that gasket.
  18. I have some doubts about this. If you refer to the Omega rules for lubrication manual, it calls for a check of a wedge of oil between teeth and stone after 24 hours of running, so dryness after only a few minutes would certainly fail this check. It also suggests the use of epilame in conjunction with 9415.
  19. This is how they fit: loosely over either end. Bottom ring can't fit this way in use as the diameter on the barrels are too wide. Having it over the plunger end would be counter productive as well as the plunger doesn't come out far enough through the top of the ring. Also there are two nice cutouts on the included platter for these to fit in. From what I can tell with my relatively limited watchmaking experience this kit functions perfectly fine without them. But there has to be a reason for them to nicely machine out and anodize 2 pieces of aluminum as well as their respective cutouts on the display platter. Very intriguing.
  20. No instructions. I find everything to be pretty self explanatory with the exception of the two big rings. Got it on a trip to Guangzhou. Pretty well made but needs cleaning before use. Copious amounts of oil in the barrels.
  21. Acetone probably would've done the job painlessly
  22. Got myself a mainspring winder set and it came with two of these doodads. Anyone got any idea what they might be used for?
  23. Forgot to mention that in my tour of the Patek facility I found that they use isopropyl alcohol as a final rinse as well.
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