Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Thanks Blacklab, here it is. On further examination the watch is Sea Lion M110 with a linen finish dial. I suspect the answer is "no go" on any attempt to restore the face, but would love some ideas if any.post-1095-0-35503400-1432677378_thumb.jp

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Here's another I am working on at the moment (please excuse the not so good pics):

post-80-0-81303800-1433452013.jpg

Basically sound, no lifting varnish, but the usual age spots, blooms etc. Immersed into IPA & gently brushed with a sable brush for a couple of minutes, rinsed in distilled water for another couple of mins, then dipped in HG silver dip for a minute. Finally rinsed & dried:

post-80-0-69301300-1433452334.jpg

I would not suggest that this method is completely safe or will work every time, but the results have been good so far. Just don't try it on a friends Patek - particularly if he's a big barsteward! 

  • Like 2
Posted

This is an interesting thread that you've started Jim. The car polish trick is credible IF you use very high quality product, designed to remove dirt, grease and dead lacquer without harming the finish.

The trick with the silver dip is something I shall try. To be honest BL, I think the watch looks better without the seconds track. Nice job!

Posted

Immersed into IPA & gently brushed with a sable brush for a couple of minutes

 

Wouldn't mind that treatment for myself...

Posted

The trouble I have will dial cleaning is that there are so many methods, but for different kinds of dials. Some of them can cause harm if used on the wrong type. Fortunately I have plenty of junk ones to practice on!

One method I've just used for the first time is the pencil eraser. I had a plain white dial, not lacquered, with black printing in good condition but very grubby. I gave it a try around the edge first, worked my way in and now it looks as good as new.

Stephen

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So, I've been using Klasse All in One for years and I figured what the hell and decided to try this on an old ~1971 Bulova Whale dial that had a lot of issues, I can post pix from my camera later.  I tried the All in One on part of the dial with lots of varnish pitting and peel and was amazed how shiny and amazing it looked, figured I would try the print area with only a little effort.....     Oh, No! with little to no effort there went the whale tail!  Clearly the print was on top of the varnish  :pulling-hair-out:       So I stopped for the evening and had a lovely 3% Irish Stout- Thank God for Beer.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Thanks for the silver dip tip Blacklab - I've thought about that a few times but wasn't sure what it might do to painted markers. I bought my wife an old Bulova with a silvered dial and had also wondered about that silver plating solution you can buy. Anyone ever tried that?

I had good experience with IPA the first few times I tried but I stopped using it after it softened the lacquer on an old Seiko.

S

Posted

The only thing I've used so far is rodico. It really only cleans dirt and doesn't get extreme like some of these shown. As stated, there are too many changes of ruining the wrong dial.

Posted

Bought this chronostop 146.012 off ebay. But before I send the dial to be restored, as soon as I'm back from Turkey I'm going to give it a go with the car polish trick. Any thoughts? 306230e067b2563d0eeebe376344117a.jpg

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Posted
  On 6/29/2015 at 11:40 PM, bsshog40 said:

The only thing I've used so far is rodico. It really only cleans dirt and doesn't get extreme like some of these shown. As stated, there are too many changes of ruining the wrong dial.

Even with radico you have to be very careful so as not to pull the transfer off. Reading some of the ways people clean dials I'm lost for words. If a dial was in such poor condition I would have it restored.

Posted
  On 7/1/2015 at 9:25 AM, oldhippy said:

Even with radico you have to be very careful so as not to pull the transfer off. Reading some of the ways people clean dials I'm lost for words. If a dial was in such poor condition I would have it restored.

Hardly worth spending £100 on dial restoration when the watch is worth less than that, also I notice that most restorations are rarely the same as original - wrong fonts being the most common problem.

  • 4 months later...
Posted

A puffer lens brush works well, more stubborn marks can be removed with saliva or mild detergent on a cotton wool bud or Rodico, but as Geo says be very cautious. I have had success on basket case dials with lighter fluid and silver dip but I only use these as a last resort.

 

Quite agree Frenchie, a polished or replacement crystal will make all the difference.

 

Dial restorations can be very good, although they are not normally exactly the same as the original. Also it costs in excess of £100.

Posted

My source of dial cleaning saliva is my mother-in-law...false teeth, etc...you get the picture...just give her conversation and insert the dial in the middle of a phrase...works like a charm. Now don't make her angry or she will spoil the dial!   :)

  • Like 2

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Nev‘s advice would be my first idea, too (or even changing the whole overcoil, as the straight sector is too short). However the coil is already almost straight there, more straightening hardly advisable. But assuming the up-bend (the „knee“) is at the red arrow and realizing that the gap between coils is too wide there, I would first bend at the yellow arrow, the other end of Nev‘s yellow line. It not yet enough, go to Nev‘s end of the yellow line. Frank
    • Hello and welcome to the forum. Enjoy.  Depending how deep you want to go have a look at the watch fix courses run by our Administrator Mark Lovick.
    • Hello and welcome to the forum.
    • Hi welcome to the forum, the problem as explained is excess current drain. Usually caused by a dirty movement needing a good service. Th that end I have attached the service sheet to assist .  A build up of dirty oil in the jewels or the rotor collecting debris all these things contribute . 3385_ETA 988.333.pdf You will find the current specifications on the sheet,  you will need at least a multimeter capable of reading micro amps to check the consumption.
    • Firstly I would aim to get the collet centred in the hairspring, then adjust so it sits over the jewel hole. From your pic I'm struggling to tell whether the collet is centred - does it open too quickly at the arrow?  If so, a tweak near the pin should fix it. If you need to adjust it, have a look in this lesson from the "Chicago School of Watchmaking" which explains how to adjust collets in hairsprings to get them centred. chicago lesson 19.PDF To get the collet over the hole (assuming the rest of the spring has been sorted), I just grab the collet and pull the whole spring in the direction it needs to go.      
×
×
  • Create New...