I am very nearsighted (between -6 and -7 in both eyes). With astigmatism. Now, in my late 50's I also have significant nearsightedness.
I thought a flip up visor - which I could wear with my glasses would be best. I purchased an OptiVisor with a flip-down loupe. But not happy at all with the visual quality.
I know you get what you pay for in optics. What is the best type of device for someone with old-bad eyes.
I have never used a regular loupe - but thinking that may be the way to go. Any of you guys (or gals) have a reccomendation?
If this is inappropriate, please delete the post.
I have an acquaintance who is closing his shop due to health after 43 years. He has a large quantity of parts, stems, crowns, crystals and all the paraphernalia one would accumulate after a long period in the business. He needs to liquidate his shop. This isn't a "Hey do you have a __ for a __." kind of post. We're talking serious stuff here. Mass quantities. If you need parts, equipment, etc. for your practice, please let me know. I will pass along his email contact to you. Obviously, this is useful primarily only to those in the U.S. due to shipping costs. But he has a huge amount of useful goods and is 100 miles South of Atlanta. PM me if you need something.
I'm having some unexpected behaviour from a eta 7750 that I'm trying to regulate after servicing.
I went through service procedure using correct lubricants.
Everything went fine. Actually I have some doubt on lubrication of incabloc wich I'm not sure I did correctly since I'm afraid that too much oil was placed in one of the two stones.
The fact is that when I finished I wasn't brave enough to clean and lubricate it again ... shame on me but I felt that task to be very very difficult.
Anyway after reassembling the watch I had it at my wrist for a week and it showed a great consistency at -10 sec a day.
It'a stop grade movement and resting at night in DU, DD 9UP and 3UP positions always showed something between -14 -6
I was very happy with that result and I thought that a little regulation would have brought it to a very fine time keeping.
Then I reopened the caseback and slightly moved etachron arm, that was resting in a nearly neutral position, in the + direction.
Nothing happened (measuring with timegrapher open source app)
Did it again, another slight push.
? ok I must have gone the wrong direction, then pushed all the way toward -
Ok this is annoying, all the way toward +
here I am,
what I'm I missing?
How come moving the regulator arm from - to + does not make any variation?
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There are two principal ways the plate locks, either with a wedge and screw which pushed the wedge into the post in the plate like Watchweasol's (seems maybe that one just uses the screw but I suspect the screw is a replacement and the wedge has gone missing), or with an eccentric cam. The one Nsteyn needs an eccentric cam. It can be made if you have a lathe, you'll want a 4 jaw chuck to set the piece off center to make the eccentric part (can also shim it in a collet or 3 jaw chuck). The pic is from a little Star I have, other Stars I have use a screw and wedge, so it's not even manufacturer specific.
I've just moved house, and of the hundreds of items in the workshop it seems the power supply for my Cousins' LED desk lamp has gone missing. This one, discussed here before. Could anyone with the same lamp tell me what the power supply looks like? Colour, type (wall-wart or in-line?), and specs, in case I have to replace it. Before realizing that I was using a 12V supply that was actually for my watch timer, I was already debugging the thing with my oscilloscope. I wasn't able to find anything wrong using a benchtop PSU at 18V, *except* for the main diode (that feeds the MCU via a 7805) being the wrong way around. My electronics education from 25 years ago is failing me in explaining how this could ever have worked in the first place, lol.
As said above, these can be a really tight fit, in some cases they are friction fitted right where they seat, on others they are tight all the way along the shaft. I use levers like in the photo (these are Bergeon, about 10" long) to unseat it, then if it's still tight I use the little puller to coax it off the rest of the way. Getting it off is one thing, reseating it is another. You will need a hollow punch with a deep enough hole to pass the length of the arbor. In my case I made it, probably you can get by with a piece of brass tubing. The other issue is hand alignment after; on most clocks the hub on the minute hand can be rotated to align it with the strike, but on some there is just a square in the hand itself with no adjustment. Here you need to pay attention to the position of the cam in relation to the square so you aren't striking at 12 minutes past or something. All that said, if it's yours and you are confident it is clean and not worn, just leave it. For a customer I will remove it no matter what. In my experience wear is more likely at the pivot that carries gathering pallet, the other cam OH mentioned first. These are usually much easier to remove.