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Tudor

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Everything posted by Tudor

  1. I put the coffee over the existing lume material to darken it. if it has a lot of sugar in it, it crystallizes on the metal and looks like corrosion.
  2. Okay. Sounds like both issues were addressed.
  3. If the tip of the seconds hand pinion broke off inside the original seconds hand, a new hand will not help completely- you will need to replace that seconds hand pinion as well, so the new hand has something to attach to. What did you end up doing to secure the dial?
  4. Maybe not the best choice to learn on, from a financial perspective... Based on what I've read here so far, I am also leaning toward the keyless works as the prime suspect. But, since the rapid run-down of the mainspring, I'd also be very suspect of the pivots on the escape wheel and pallet fork; as well as ensuring the escape wheel is planar (flat) after that explosion. It was suggested the watch be fully torn-down and ALL parts be carefully inspected, and I fully endorse that. It's great you want to do this "yourself", but at the end of the day, it's STILL going to have to go to someone
  5. No bueno. I had started re-writing what I could find elsewhere, so not much was recovered. Nowhere near the number of files that were on that drive.
  6. So, my external hard drive was just about full. It holds all my watchmaking files, from various makers, a lot of it no longer findable out on the net. Also, years of photos, including the raw magazine articles that were eventually published; all the support work for my BMW engine swap manual.. Literally like ten + years of research and collections, including lots of irreplaceable stuff. The driver/cause was a new external drive. The plan was to move all but the watch stuff over to the new drive, and take the old one home for use where I do my watch work. The new drive had a
  7. Yes, mine were well coated but cleaned up perfectly. I have every available stake with none broken (yet). if I could get that incabloc spring done I’d feel better about it but there is no way you are doing something like that without this tool.
  8. No problem! We have to look out for each other.
  9. That’s great! But, the next 5-minute job will take a week, not counting time waiting for parts to arrive... Ask me how I know.
  10. Not hard to open, with the right tools. Surprisingly, it is shower-proof. I’ll put on a proper 7030 tube and 704 crown for insurance. But it’s a nice knock-around watch to keep my nice ones, nice. To answer the question prior, that I missed, it uses the same die as a regular sub- 1680, 16610, and I assume the 116610 as well. This is an 116600 sea-dweller. The “deep sea sea-dweller” with the hoky “ring lock system” uses a larger die, which came in my set (and remains unused). The Tudor 9411 uses the size smaller, which I think also fits the datejust.
  11. I thought those were only suitable for use on a Panerai?
  12. Welcome Dave! Sounds like you have found your new virtual home.
  13. Welcome! But new, functional watches are probably cheaper than collecting tools to buy "cheap" broken ones...
  14. First thing is to only use brass when you need to- cosmetic parts that will show scratches. Keep them out of reach, not right next to the others. Dressing tweezers is often covered in the books, because it is like dressing drivers, and you need to do it often. Check your books, or perhaps online sources. I like to get the tips in good shape internally first- usually a piece of 600 grit folded so there is grip on both sides, is held within the lightly closed tweezers until any high spots are removed (even finish on both tips). This helps to make the internal surfaces parallel as well.
  15. I might also suggest, if you are going to buy "blanks" you might consider making the blanks as well. You can get brass, aluminum or stainless shim stock in various thicknesses, which can be polished if desired, cut to appropriate diameter and then painted etc. You could even get "blued" spring steel if you like that look but beware that spring steel is a MOTHER to work with. You will need sharp solid carbide tools to work it. Get a bag of replacement glue-on feet (unless you want a solder rig) and you are on your way. (because I am thinking this very same thing myself)
  16. From your list above, I would NOT get the Rodico "premium". get the regular blue/green stuff. The gray "premium" is very sticky and it pulls apart like bubble gum. I tried one piece (glad I didn't get a case) and I NEVER use it. Useless waste of money.
  17. Recently acquired this junker. But I quite like it, so I'm going to fix it up and enjoy it. Faux Eta 2824 inside is running fast, and presumed dry. I regulated it down to +10 (and put put a drop of oil on the dry rotor bearing so it was less noisy than my snow blower) and will either service it or replace it. Looks reasonably close to the real one, which I did try on when it was available. This is about $10, 250.00 less expensive than that one was, so I have a bit of change to cover lubricants...
  18. Well now you've peaked my interest... If you don't wish to share the process, are you accepting orders?
  19. That SM-4B looks great! I'm looking for something like that because my scope has no room to work. I can see just fine (it's a B&L) but I can't get any work done with it. Frustrating... I particularly like the arm, so I could swing it over the work area, and out of the way after. I might go so far as to put it on a bearing, so it can swivel into position without moving much... Currently $412.99 but probably worth that anyway.
  20. Try "waterproof" wood glue as the binder to avoid absorbing water. Usually darker color too, for the "vintage" look. I guess. Never messed with lume other than cleaning with Rodico and/or tinting with coffee. Yet. I am somewhat inspired to make my own dials and put a watch together myself, which would require luming the dial and hands...
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