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Everything posted by Tudor

  1. Hi guys. Working on my Omega 565 last night the lower (plate side) Incabloc spring broke as I tried to remove it for final cleaning and oiling. I got the lose hinge piece out after much struggle but I am in need of the spring, if someone has a spare. Happy to PayPal, or trade. I have one that appears to be serviceable from a Clone 3135 but it may not work, and I'm not sure what else I have that might work... Last thing I want is for it to come lose in the watch after it's cased up. Also, the main question: do I need to press the Incabloc setting out of the plate to install the new spring?
  2. Nice gloves... probably to cover the scars from the last time he tried that trick?
  3. I put a drawer organizer (from IKEA) in that gap between top and the table top below it. Not much, but something... I like the spice rack idea. I'm also looking at "cosmetics racks" which are low cost with lots of diverse storage. I actually have a bunch of those Acro bins I can put to use. I just prefer everything be covered to control dust.
  4. I agree on that surface finish. I left three thousandths there for lapping but was rushed at the end of the day. It sits against the face plate anyway so not critical (provided its flat so there are no gaps).
  5. Welcome! And don’t forget Mark’s course! Very good as are the videos he posts on YouTube.
  6. Welcome! That won’t get you banned here. ( just don’t let it happen again!) kidding of course. Seikos are fun to modify for sure.
  7. The above is more or less what I do. Balance complete and pallet fork get one dip (more than once) with scrupulous inspection along the way. The rest bathes in Ronsinol and dried on watch paper (once the heavy stuff is off) as many times as needed, and final rinse is 91% minimum Isopropyl alcohol, and then a dry with the blower. I like to keep the Ronsinol film on everything until I’m ready to assemble, at which point I do the alcohol right before oiling. Keep the alcohol away from the balance and pallet fork due to the shellac. Many members have dipped in alcohol with no pro
  8. Trying to channel some positive energy here tonight after my spring failure... After I finished my movement holder I was asked if I could make rack handle ferrules for old Phase Linear amplifiers. The original ferrules arrived this afternoon so I took a stab at it. OD is .500 inch for reference. (The gray one is the original and the silver one is what I made today)
  9. I really dislike the generic “clamp”movement holders. I have the “good” Burgeon one- I forget the number, and it works ok. But the legs always seem to be in the wrong place or putting pressure on something I really don’t want pressure on. I have 1570 and 30/3135 holders and they’re great. Easy to handle and a center support for pressing hands etc. Knowing I’d be assembling the 565, I wanted a good holder (although it does sort of fit the 3135 holder). It is two sided- either side of the main plate can be supported. And the dimensions are different. I’m not totally happy with
  10. So, I have my oil now finally (second shipment actually made it), as well as a shiny new Omega 565 movement holder with an adjustable center support I made today. (That works perfectly!) I’ll start a cheerier thread on that gem... With my main plate in my new holder, I proceed to remove the balance wheel incabloc assembly for cleaning and oiling. But the spring broke. (Insert colorful metaphors here that curdle milk at 100 yards) Found a potential donor in a junk 3135 clone movement. Remove it from the junker in about eight seconds and it doesn’t want to go into the Omega. (More meta
  11. I’ve worked, and scrapped, a lot of China made 2824 clones. (And one 3135 clone so far). I’d go with the SII NH 35 for a couple reasons. 1) it can run 10 years without proper service, but will probably need to be replaced at that point. 2) the 2824 clones are not as robust, but could be replaced with a Swiss movement when it fails. 3) new NH35 is about $40 and new (Swiss) 2824 is about $200 So, for me, in your situation, I’d get the San Martin (also for other favorable details you appreciate) and save for another movement. Then when yours fails, deliver the watch and second
  12. Mine is similar, as you can see... that’s why I started this thread!
  13. Hornbeam is another name for Dogwood, although there are variations within the type, where one might be called one and not the other. Like Birch, I suspect there are several species within the family, with varying hardnesses. I would say, if you can put a fine enough point on boxwood/Hornbeam, you should be able to do it with Birch as well. 600 grit paper should do it. Something like Swamp Ash, with it's very open grain, I could see it not being possible to sharpen to a fine point. I'll let you all know how I do with my toothpicks, if there are any breakage issues etc.
  14. We don't really have a "Perfect" place to put things like this right now, so any mod feel free to move this if you think of a better place. Not my ad, and I have no connection to the seller, but a light polish of the indicies and it'd be a stunner. Reasonable price too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-NEW-NOS-ELGIN-12s-POCKET-WATCH-DIAL-WHITE-GOLD-MARKERS-001/293600475101?_trkparms=aid%3D1110009%26algo%3DSPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818142652%26meid%3Db49af5eab4a14ccc9bf39534eb63ddfd%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D293776306451%26itm%3D29360047510
  15. I have seen “Beech” listed as the wood species of peg wood. Im going to presume European Beech, since that’s where the use originated in watch repair. Janka Hardness: 1,450 lbf(6,460 N) that seems to be more in line with Birch as well. In these small sizes, it is hard to differentiate the hardness. In a 4/4 broad, it’s much easier.
  16. Thanks for the ideas! Lighting is handled. I have two LED shop lights. One is on (I never installed the second) and you can see I also have a window for natural light on the rare occasion I can work during daylight hours. I am never wanting for light. My original plan was three of those fixtures: the one above and one on each side, to kill any shadows. But even with my fat head stuffed in a movement with a loupe, I can still see fine. Best money spent on watch destruction by far. Those clear and black plastic things in the bags are shelf units. Brand new “curb find” but I don’t thin
  17. No bubble. If I run into a problem, I’ll update here. But hardness is similar, actually a bit softer, for “birch” which has several varieties. (I picked the high and low hardness variety, since you wouldn’t know what species you’d get) Flowering Dogwood Janka Hardness: 2,150 lbf(9,560 N) Gray Birch Janka Hardness: 760 lbf (3,380 N) Sweet Birch Janka Hardness: 1470 lbf (6,540 N) Soaking in Ronsinol softens the wood further. Primary use is cleaning jewels for me. No one need do what I do. Just sharing.
  18. Is it for holding a roller table for heating?
  19. This fell to the way side... but here’s the current “state of the art” on my bench... the new work mat is draped over the chair because I have too many watches on the bench to make the swap now. Once they are secured I’ll tear it apart.
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