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Everything posted by mousekar

  1. JohnR725, what an amazing resource! I don't know where you got this, but oh man am I sure glad you shared it. This is fantastic! Thank you!
  2. So as stated before, 9415 will go from a thick grease to an oil with the introduction of friction. Once the friction is removed it goes back to a grease. It's pretty wild. As I understand it, you should be able to use 9415 without epilame, which is a product you use to coat the spots where you'll add oil to keep it in place. However with the 941 you'll definitely want to use epilame as that will go everywhere with out it. Some can correct me if I am incorrect in this logic. I started with the 941 but ended up getting the 9415. I'd say just pay the extra for the 9415 the first time.
  3. I suppose what I was driving at is that the wave of your pattern has me concerned. There are definitely people on here with much more knowledge than I, but that's where the basis of my comments came from. Seeing a dip and then a rise and then a dip like that, means to me, that you don't have a free running gear train which starts at the mainspring barrel and carries through the escape wheel. I suppose the reason I'm not as focused at the escapement is because the wave itself doesn't look regular. LIke it's moving along and then something happens and then it's back and then something happens at
  4. There's definitely something going on there. Yes, your beat error a little off and your amplitude is low. Right now, I'd be suspecting that it needs to be disassembled and cleaned again. Peg all the holes, make sure all your pivots are completely clean and pay close attention to the amount of oil you use when assembling again. I suspect that you are losing power and/or getting inconsistent power through your gear train. Another area to check out is the mainspring. If it's old, and you haven't addressed the mainspring, that would also be another area where power is getting lost. I would al
  5. Hey Smokey, Doesn't sound like it. Having a seconds hand hit the mark ALL the way around a watch is tricky. Not impossible (See Grand Seiko), but tricky. Gravity is not your friend, which is why when you rotate the watch you're able to keep it on point. In general, if you hold a watch vertical, because of gravity, the second hand will hit the mark on one side of the watch and miss on the other. I believe generally it will start to miss on the 3 o'clock side but as it comes around and goes back up on the 9 o'clock side it will hit the marks again. Flip the watch upside down (6 o'clock up)
  6. I'm not sure if this will help you or not, but when you're removing a canon pinion it is friction fitted onto the pivot. It fits into a notch on the pivot, and not the entire length of the pivot. So when you're attempting to remove it, it's really only the first mm or so, and then after that it is loose. While using your tweezers may seem like there is a high percentage of bending the pivot, for me, in reality, it's just a matter of popping it up. After that taking it off the rest of the way is no problem. If you use lever hand removers, those can also work in a pinch, you just have to make su
  7. If you’re asking if they’re different pushers for say the UFO vs the Kakume vs the Panda....then yes, I’m almost certain there are. I own a UFO, and that has concentric circles in their pushers (something to look for when determining authenticity) but I don’t believe all other models have this. I only know for sure with the UFO cause that’s what I did the most research on. I would look at it like the pushers are more a part of the case, then the movement. Each case type is gonna be different. If you’re asking does the same case type have different types of pushers? Then I can’t say for
  8. I can confirm that Seiko won’t take it back. There are few people out there that can do the repair. I agree with above, while I’m working on a Bell right now, I wouldn’t feel comfortable taking on yours for the above reasons as well as if it’s needs more work other than a service. There’s Klein Vintage Watch in Colorado, but he’s expensive and usually completely booked. The Watch Bloke in UK, he wasn’t accepting jobs, but I haven’t checked recently. And Adrain at Australia Vintage Time. He’s awesome, fair prices, busy as well, but does great work. Lastly I would suggest maybe Nick at Orion wat
  9. Hello All, I'm wondering what tool is commonly used to manipulate the regulator arm? I've used everything from tweezers to a plastic stick used to help open up computers. My main issue is that all of the things I've used are risky for slippage and I find it incredibly hard to just nudge a little when you're really trying to dial in the timing. I would think there would be a special tool for this (there's a special tool for EVERYTHING), but I haven't managed to find such a tool if it exists. Today I made my own tool using an old broken spring bar tool that I reshaped that should make life
  10. sigh..... luckily, I already purchased a replacement. I know this can be fixed with some patience and fine point tweezers, but right now I just want the watch running again. I'll use this as practice at some point, but for now, it's getting replaced.
  11. Short answer is yes. You can remove the components that make up the date complication, however, you can't remove the stem position. In other words, there will still be a second position when you pull the crown out where you would normally adjust the date, it just won't turn anything.
  12. Thank you so much rodabod! The majority of my experience has been spent on pocket watches without the anti-shock where bent pivots on the balance are rather common place and it's just the first place my head goes. Inspecting the balance pivots closely I'm not seeing any noticeable issues. I purchased USB microscope and closely inspected the 3rd and 4th wheels. I'll attach some pics so you guys can see what I'm seeing. It looks to me like some of the teeth are pretty well worn on both wheels and consequently I'll be replacing both of them. I think this could also explain why the second ha
  13. Hello, Welcome to the group! Just looking at your picture, your balance is going to require more work than just reassembly. The hairspring itself is no longer concentric and would either need to be put back into shape (which would require fine point tweezers, probably some previous experience doing it, and an AWFUL lot of patience), or you would replace the hairspring. If you replace the hairspring your gonna need some knowledge and experience to get it in beat with the balance wheel. The other question I would have was, why was the balance stem removed to begin with. You can remove the h
  14. Yes that's exactly what it's for. It will move the two posts hanging down closer or farther apart. The idea being that you want to get as close to the hairspring as possible without completely restricting it. My concern would be that I don't know what adjustments the previous repair included. I wouldn't want to assume that that was adjusted correctly but the find adjustment was not. It's all symbiotic, if you know what I'm saying. That would be my concern. The reason I'm more familiar with this is because I happen to be working on my own Seamaster with an 1120 movement. I've done a lot o
  15. Hello NJD1977, and welcome to the forum. Unfortunately your question is a bit more complicated than it may seem. I can show you the underside of the balance cock. I will take some pictures when i get home and post them here, but I do believe there is a gear under there. In addition to that, the 1120 movement utilizes the "etachron" system for regulation. The "stud" that you drew the line over actually has two posts that come straight down where the hairspring will go through. That can be adjusted to limit the space on either side of the hair spring to decrease it's deviation in the different p
  16. I have no new information to add, but will also say that I’ve seen the same symptoms when the cap jewels were placed in the wrong spot. They are slightly different in thickness. And that’s a pretty simple think to check. After that, I would explore what Nucejoe is saying about the pivots. good luck, I would certainly be interested in the updates!
  17. UPDATE: I know it's been a while, but I wanted to give an update to what I've done so far (which isn't much), what I'm seeing, and how I plan to proceed. I also had an oiling question. So as Nucejoe recommended, I started by running the movement and seeing how long it took for the power reserve to run it's course which was actually just over 48 hours. That's absolutely within spec, so that ended up not being an issue. The second hand was still stopping at 3 seconds after 12. Unfortunately I had a rookie moment, and neglected to pull the crown out to the setting position (3rd) when removi
  18. Everyone, Thank you so much for your responses. This is EXACTLY the kind of information and advice I was hoping to get. Nucejoe, I will absolutely follow your recommended due diligence to try and ascertain the issues before full disassembly. This is an area that I have struggled with in the past and is really the reason for starting this thread in the first place. Right now, based on everyone's recommendations, I'm trying to slow down, put a plan together, gather all the necessary materials (such as the exact oils that Omega recommends on their service chart) and take it step by step. I w
  19. Hello All, I'm suddenly having some issues with an Omega SMP 2531.80 with a cal. 1120 movement that I own. I think I may have dropped it, or bumped it into something as some point and that would be the cause of this sudden change. You don't remember....you might say? Yeah, stupid I know, but I have a bunch of watches and if something happened and I didn't immediately notice a problem, I just move on, so......... Anywho, here are the issues I'm having..... It's now losing about 20-25 seconds a day. It used to be spot on.....lost about 1-3 seconds a day. This one is reall
  20. Ok, well I tried to insert a video, but it doesn't seem to be letting me. So just use the pics, that should help. Again, if you'd like other angles or the back side, just let me know. One thing I've needed to make a habit of when I service watches is take pics of the keyless works before disassembly. There's just so many variations and I'm not familiar with them all that I can never remember how exactly it's supposed to go back together. Of course, if they came to you disassembled, I suppose you'd be SOL!
  21. Elgin 462.mov Well, I have two. One was running and one I'm using for parts. But to be honest, this type of keyless works isn't proprietary to just the model 462. I've seen it before in other pocket watch movements. The tricky part are the pieces that screw into the back and poke through to the dial side (sorry, I don't know all the technical terms for the parts). So to illustrate, I took some close up pics and video showing how it's supposed to work. This should help you determine where your error is. If you need a pic of the other side as well, just let me know.
  22. If you’re missing a part, I believe I have a spare laying around somewhere, I can check to see if I have it. let me know.... no charge
  23. Hey Terry, I have some experience with this as I’ve been working with a Waltham 0 size as well. There are three model numbers of mainspring to choose from. The main difference being the width. You’ll have to measure either the width of the old mainspring or the inside of the barrel wall. Should be either: 1.5mm, 1.7mm, or 2.0mm. Remember when you measure it may not be exact. If you measure the barrel wall, choose the closest one that is the smallest, so you have room for the cap to fit. Otherwise the mainspring will stick out the top. I would recommend alloy. I have found plenty of fine exampl
  24. I was thinking that maybe the mainspring was slipping?? It’s a confusing statement and I’m pretty sure they’re mixing up at least one or more of their terms. Or, they’re just trying to scam you.....and there’s nothing wrong. Or user error. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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