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mousekar

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mousekar last won the day on February 28 2018

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About mousekar

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  1. Hello All, I'm wondering what tool is commonly used to manipulate the regulator arm? I've used everything from tweezers to a plastic stick used to help open up computers. My main issue is that all of the things I've used are risky for slippage and I find it incredibly hard to just nudge a little when you're really trying to dial in the timing. I would think there would be a special tool for this (there's a special tool for EVERYTHING), but I haven't managed to find such a tool if it exists. Today I made my own tool using an old broken spring bar tool that I reshaped that should make life a little easier, but I'm very curious to see what everyone else is using. thank you
  2. sigh..... luckily, I already purchased a replacement. I know this can be fixed with some patience and fine point tweezers, but right now I just want the watch running again. I'll use this as practice at some point, but for now, it's getting replaced.
  3. Short answer is yes. You can remove the components that make up the date complication, however, you can't remove the stem position. In other words, there will still be a second position when you pull the crown out where you would normally adjust the date, it just won't turn anything.
  4. Thank you so much rodabod! The majority of my experience has been spent on pocket watches without the anti-shock where bent pivots on the balance are rather common place and it's just the first place my head goes. Inspecting the balance pivots closely I'm not seeing any noticeable issues. I purchased USB microscope and closely inspected the 3rd and 4th wheels. I'll attach some pics so you guys can see what I'm seeing. It looks to me like some of the teeth are pretty well worn on both wheels and consequently I'll be replacing both of them. I think this could also explain why the second hand was stoping the way that it was. Not to mention that they're not clean at all.
  5. Hello, Welcome to the group! Just looking at your picture, your balance is going to require more work than just reassembly. The hairspring itself is no longer concentric and would either need to be put back into shape (which would require fine point tweezers, probably some previous experience doing it, and an AWFUL lot of patience), or you would replace the hairspring. If you replace the hairspring your gonna need some knowledge and experience to get it in beat with the balance wheel. The other question I would have was, why was the balance stem removed to begin with. You can remove the hairspring without removing the stem, which makes me wonder if the stem would also need to be replaced. Either way, I guess what I'm saying is...this issue is a complicated one, that's gonna require some real experienced repair person, and is probably not going to be cheap. Wish I had those skills.....and tools.
  6. Yes that's exactly what it's for. It will move the two posts hanging down closer or farther apart. The idea being that you want to get as close to the hairspring as possible without completely restricting it. My concern would be that I don't know what adjustments the previous repair included. I wouldn't want to assume that that was adjusted correctly but the find adjustment was not. It's all symbiotic, if you know what I'm saying. That would be my concern. The reason I'm more familiar with this is because I happen to be working on my own Seamaster with an 1120 movement. I've done a lot of research and homework before beginning this project and am taking it very slow. There's just so much to know!
  7. Hello NJD1977, and welcome to the forum. Unfortunately your question is a bit more complicated than it may seem. I can show you the underside of the balance cock. I will take some pictures when i get home and post them here, but I do believe there is a gear under there. In addition to that, the 1120 movement utilizes the "etachron" system for regulation. The "stud" that you drew the line over actually has two posts that come straight down where the hairspring will go through. That can be adjusted to limit the space on either side of the hair spring to decrease it's deviation in the different positions and also help to regulate the timing. In addition, you can adjust the beat error by moving another lever, and then on top of that you have the fine adjustment screw. In order to make an adjustment to the "etachron" you'll need a special "etachron" key (they're about $40). All of this will require a timegrapher as you'd be making very small adjustments and then checking the timing. You'll also need to look at the timing in the different positions. I hope this helps. I would still recommend taking the watch back to the repair place as they may be better equipped to handle these adjustments. Like I said...I'll post some pics of everything I'm talking about later tonight when I get home from work.
  8. I have no new information to add, but will also say that I’ve seen the same symptoms when the cap jewels were placed in the wrong spot. They are slightly different in thickness. And that’s a pretty simple think to check. After that, I would explore what Nucejoe is saying about the pivots. good luck, I would certainly be interested in the updates!
  9. UPDATE: I know it's been a while, but I wanted to give an update to what I've done so far (which isn't much), what I'm seeing, and how I plan to proceed. I also had an oiling question. So as Nucejoe recommended, I started by running the movement and seeing how long it took for the power reserve to run it's course which was actually just over 48 hours. That's absolutely within spec, so that ended up not being an issue. The second hand was still stopping at 3 seconds after 12. Unfortunately I had a rookie moment, and neglected to pull the crown out to the setting position (3rd) when removing the movement to run the next test. So without pulling the crown all the way out, it's impossible to properly reinsert it! So with that, I was forced to remove the hands, dial, date mechanism, and half the keyless works in order to get the stem back in. In that process, I found out that the stem is bent. I purchased this used, and when I received it the crown barely had the threads to screw down. Thinking a bent stem was related to that and not wanting that to happen again, I purchased a new Omega stem. After that I was able to run another test and this time the second hand did not stop in the same place it usually did. Huzzah! I ran that test three more times and the second stopped at a different place every time! Success....except, because I had to skip a few tests (e.g. with dial on, dial off, date off and so forth) I don't know EXACTLY what that issue is, but I at least have an idea. Next up, the balance. On my inspection, I could not find any obvious faults. The cap stones did not look out of place, unless its very very slight. Wasn't sure how visible a shifted cap stone would look. I have observed that it does not stop its motion in what I would consider a natural way. It stops rather suddenly. I did purchase (in all my many purchases for this project) an etachron key, as well as learned what its for and how to use it. I carefully opened up the regulator pins on the etachron system and removed the stud (I learned this from another video) and removed the balance complete. My initial inspection at 15x did not show any obvious bends or anything like that in the pivots. So I just ordered a USB microscope and will take a closer look. Hopefully the pivots just need to be thoroughly cleaned, but if not, I already have a balance complete I can use (I don't have the skills nor tools to replace a balance staff). I'm hoping it won't come to that. Once I removed the balance, and the pallet fork, I ran the gear train to see how that looked. Again, what I'm seeing is that it doesn't release power in a smooth natural way. It gets choppy at the end of the run where it will stop-go-stop-go and then finally stop. If you shake it a little bit it will go just a little bit more. When I received this watch a few years ago, I was told it was serviced and was given a service record, but on my inspection, the parts are not nearly as clean as I would like them. I have found residue on the bridges and rotor, and the gears do not look as clean as I would hope. So I don't know exactly what was done, but I'm not confident that all my pivots are as clean as they need to be. Or that it was properly oiled. So that's it...that's where I'm at right now. I plan to disassemble bit by bit, and inspect everything (endshake, sideshake and close microscope inspection) so I can hopefully fault find. I'm sorry this was so long, thank you for reading if you got all the way through. One question I did have concerns oiling. I've watched Marc's video on servicing the Omega 2500 (which from what I understand is exactly like the 1120, but with the co-axil) and I've noticed that he oils the winding pinion, sliding pinion, and stem with Moebius 9501 (cause it's blue) and not the recommended HP-1300 (which is red) from the technical sheets. I do not have the 9501, I purchased 9504 instead cause that was a change that was made on the technical sheets. So which should I use? Is there a reason that the HP-1300 is not used? Ok, again thank you so much for your input. I didn't add pics, cause I didn't think there was anything to really show just yet. It looks like what you'd expect.
  10. Everyone, Thank you so much for your responses. This is EXACTLY the kind of information and advice I was hoping to get. Nucejoe, I will absolutely follow your recommended due diligence to try and ascertain the issues before full disassembly. This is an area that I have struggled with in the past and is really the reason for starting this thread in the first place. Right now, based on everyone's recommendations, I'm trying to slow down, put a plan together, gather all the necessary materials (such as the exact oils that Omega recommends on their service chart) and take it step by step. I will definitely be updating this post with pics and progress as I process through this repair, but it may be a little bit of time before I'm ready to tackle this completely. Again, thanks for you for your encouragement and support! Chris
  11. Hello All, I'm suddenly having some issues with an Omega SMP 2531.80 with a cal. 1120 movement that I own. I think I may have dropped it, or bumped it into something as some point and that would be the cause of this sudden change. You don't remember....you might say? Yeah, stupid I know, but I have a bunch of watches and if something happened and I didn't immediately notice a problem, I just move on, so......... Anywho, here are the issues I'm having..... It's now losing about 20-25 seconds a day. It used to be spot on.....lost about 1-3 seconds a day. This one is really throwing me.....when the power reserve runs out the second hand consistently stops at 3 seconds after 12. It is not running into another hand. On a timegrapher, I'm having a huge variance between Dial Up (-36) and Dial Down (+15). Yikes!! Amplitude is 235 degrees at best and 200 at worst Power reserve has never been that great.......about 30 hours So here are the things I'm thinking, but I'm also looking for any input that you guys would like to share. I suppose what I'm really looking for are ideas of things to look for as I disassemble the watch. For starters, I'm pretty sure I have a bent pivot on the balance staff and would be a root cause for the major swing in time keeping. I have no confidence that the mainspring was cleaned and properly re-oiled the last time, or maybe the gear train was not properly cleaned, but I'm definitely losing power somewhere. What's really perplexing me is the second hand stopping at the same spot when the power reserve runs out. The only thing I can think of is some sort of problem with the 4th wheel......that's all I got. Unfortunately, with all that's going on with this watch, I think it would be cost prohibitive to send this watch to someone for repair. So I'm stepping up to the plate! I have been honing my watch repair skills for a few years now having recently purchased an Ultrasonic and timegrapher. I've mostly worked on pocket watches with some Japanese movements in there. I've gleaned so much information from the collective on here and I can't thank you enough. I am anxious to see what you guys can come up with.
  12. Ok, well I tried to insert a video, but it doesn't seem to be letting me. So just use the pics, that should help. Again, if you'd like other angles or the back side, just let me know. One thing I've needed to make a habit of when I service watches is take pics of the keyless works before disassembly. There's just so many variations and I'm not familiar with them all that I can never remember how exactly it's supposed to go back together. Of course, if they came to you disassembled, I suppose you'd be SOL!
  13. Elgin 462.mov Well, I have two. One was running and one I'm using for parts. But to be honest, this type of keyless works isn't proprietary to just the model 462. I've seen it before in other pocket watch movements. The tricky part are the pieces that screw into the back and poke through to the dial side (sorry, I don't know all the technical terms for the parts). So to illustrate, I took some close up pics and video showing how it's supposed to work. This should help you determine where your error is. If you need a pic of the other side as well, just let me know.
  14. If you’re missing a part, I believe I have a spare laying around somewhere, I can check to see if I have it. let me know.... no charge
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